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ProduktTest – Corsair CPU-Kühler XC7 RGB ELITE LCD Bekam von Corsair durch das Corsair – Ambassador Programm den Kühler XC7 RGB ELITE LCD zum Testen zur Verfügung gestellt. Dieser CPU-Kühler ist kein StandAlone-Produkt, sondern für den Einsatz einer Wasserkühlung mit Einzelkomponenten. Für den ProduktTest wurde der Kühler in einem bestehenden System eingebaut und somit ein besserer Vergleich zu den zuvor getesteten Kühlern zu haben. Verpackung Die Teile sind in zwei übereinander gestapelte Tiefziehfolien verstaut. Dies macht zwar nicht solch ein hochwertiges Gefühl, scheint aber durch deren Gestaltung ausreichend Schutz zu geben. Die beigelegte Dokumentation besteht lediglich aus den Garantiebestimmungen. Für eine Anleitung muss man leider ins Internet gehen. Speziell da am Kühler keine Kennzeichnung von Eingang und Ausgang ist, ist dies etwas bedauerlich. Hier erwartet man von so einem hochpreisigen Produkt doch etwas anderes. Wenn man darauf verzichtet, würde ich doch mindestens ein Blatt mit dem Link zur Anleitung oder einfach ein QR-Code mit dessen Verknüpfung beilegen oder auf dem äußeren Karton abdrucken. Anschlüsse Wie zuvor beschrieben ist leider keine Kennzeichnung von Eingang und Ausgang auf dem Kühler. Nach der Gegenprüfung im Internet, bestätigt es sich dass unten der Eingang und Oben der Ausgang ist (wenn man die Wasseranschlüße rechts vom Display hat). Der elektrische Anschluss ist kühlerseitig als USB-C ausgelegt. Die Gegenseite wird direkt an einem USB-Port am Mainboard angeschlossen. Hierdurch kann der Kühler universell angeschlossen werden, und ist kein neues D-Link – System erforderlich. Daher auch für etwaige einfache Aufrüstungen bestehender Kühlsystem verwendbar. Das hierfür beigestellte Anschlußkabel kann je nach Kabelführung knapp werden. Montage Als Gegenhalter steht ein für Corsair üblicher X-Kreuz aus einem U-Blech zur Verfügung. Persönlich bevorzuge ich doch den aus Vollmetall bestehende und dadurch massivere Gegenhalter-Platte eines anderen Herstellers. Glücklicherweise werden die gleichen Gewinde verwendet und somit konnte die bestehende Platte verwendet werden. Wie allgemein üblich, bestehen die Haltewinkel aus zwei U-Winkel die auf den Kühler aufgeschoben werden. Im Kühlerbereich war hierzu etwas mehr Kraft erforderlich, jedoch werden hierdurch diese dann auch fester am Kühler gehalten. Durch die vormontierte Schrauben fiel dann die Montage des Kühlers auf dem Prozessor sehr einfach aus. Die Wärmeleitpaste ist bereits durch Corsair im Corsair-üblichen Dreieck-Muster aufgebracht. Eine Ersatz-Wärmeleitpaste ist nicht beigepackt. Einsatz / Leistung / Kühlung Entgegen zu AIO-Wasserkühlungen, muss man diese Kühlsystem mit Kühlflüssigkeit befüllen. Hier fiel sofort auf, dass der Wasserwiderstand äußerst gering ist und nahezu keine Reduzierung der Pumpenleistung stattfindet. Mit dem Testsystem konnte ich daher bei 100% Pumpenleistung einen Wasserdurchfluss von ca. 220 – 240 l/h bekommen, welches dem maximalen Systemdurchfluss entspricht. Bei Befüllen gab dies nun zu bedenken, ob dies nun ein Vorteil oder Nachteil im Bezug zur Kühlleistung bedeutet. Meine Leistungs-Tests der Kühler findet mit dem Stresstest des Tools „CPU-Z“ und Temperaturaufzeichnung mit „Intel Extreme Tuning Utility“ statt. Bei vergleichbaren Umgebungsbedingungen erzielte ich mit anderen Kühlern den Bestwert von 77°C. Beim ersten Leistungstest dieses Kühlers erreichte ich eine Temperatur von 81°C, welche sich nach einigen Minuten Betrieb auf 84°C steigerte. Somit haben sich die Bedenken bezüglich des Wasserdurchflusses schnell erledigt. Nach dem Austausch der originalen Wärmeleitpaste gegen eine MX-4, welche auf dem Prozessor sehr dünn verstrichen wurde, konnte die 81°C auf 79°C reduziert werden. Display Das Display kann genau die gleichen Dinge anzeigen wie die bereits zuvor angebotene Displays für die AIO-Kühlsysteme. D.h. diverse Sensorenwerte in Zahlen oder Balken, Uhrzeit oder Grafiken welche auch animierte GIF’s sein können. Zusätzlich ist im Kühler noch ein Sensor zur Messung der Wassertemperatur eingebaut, dieser Messwert kann man sich ebenfalls anzeigen lassen. Da man sich dies beliebig konfigurieren und auch nach einstallbaren Zeit abwechselbar als Profil in ICue speichern kann, ergibt dies eine extreme Vielfalt an Möglichkeiten. Die Ausrichtung des Displays kann man mit der neusten Version von ICue auch seinen Bedürfnissen anpassen, so dass der Kühler in allen möglichen Positionen montiert werden kann. Test-System Gehäuse : LianLi O11 XL Mainboard : Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX Z790 Prozessor : Intel I9 14900K (montiert mit CPU-Frame) Ram : Corsair VENGEANCE RGB 32 GB (2 × 16 GB) DDR5 DRAM 7.200 MHz C34 Grafikkarte : MSI RTX 460Ti Festplatte : NVME-SSD Viper VP4300L - 1 TB Kühlsystem : Alphacool Radiator NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360mm Alphacool Radiator NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper X-Flow 360mm HardwareLabs Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTX 360 Alphacool VPP Apex Pump Alphacool Core 100 Aurora Ausgleichsbehälter 10x Corsair QX120 RGB Lüfter 3x Alphacool Rise Aurora 120 mm Lüfter Fazit Wenn man auch bei dem Preis von ca. 210 € zuerst etwas schlucken muss, kommt man nach Abzug vom Display von ca. 100 € auf 110€, welches dann dem Kühler „iCUE LINK XC7 RGB ELITE“ ohne Display entspricht. Diese 110€ befindet sich dann ja im gleichen Preissegment wie die Top-Kühler von anderen Herstellern. Von der Kühlleistung wurde ich positiv überrascht und befindet sich im Bereich von anderen Top-Kühlern. Für das Maximum an Kühlung erreicht dieser Kühler nicht die Leistung, aber in Kombination mit dem Display und der dadurch optischen Gestaltungsmöglichkeiten ist diese Kühler auf jeden Fall für den Kauf nicht abzuraten. Werde ihn selbst auch erstmal weiter nutzen. Als zusammenfassende Empfehlung an Corsair, bleiben aktuell nur folgende Punkte : · Anleitung oder Link zur Anleitung im Paket · Verbesserung der Wärmeleitpaste · Anschlußkabel für Display einige cm verlängern Mit diesen Punkten ist dies eher ein Jammern im hohen Niveau, als eine Reklamation zu sehen.
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- xc7 rgb elite lcd
- produkttest
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The XC7 comes with two sets of bracke ts, one for AMD, and one for Intel 1700. They come in two pieces - they're essentially split in half. The 1700 bracket is what I need to use (bottom picture below). You must slide each half of the bracket into a narrow slit that runs around the edge of the block; each half of the bracket slides into opposite sides of the block. When you slide them in all the way, such that they are fully seated, the two arms of each half meet, and the screws out at the edges of the bracket line up with the holes in the backplate mounting bracket. The problem I'm having is that I can only get one of the bracket halves fully seated (middle picture below; the right-hand half is seated, but the left-hand half, pointed at with a screwdriver, is not). I can see why this is happening. Inside the slit, there are small pillars that look to be the wells for the screws that hold the top half of the block to the bottom half. Two of the opposite sides have wells right in the middle of the slit that prevent you from fully seating the bracket (or they prevent that for the intel brackets, anyway - it's a different story for AMD, more on that below). As for the other two sides, which you must use for the intel bracket, one of those sides has no screw well in the middle. In the middle pic below, that's the right-hand side. With no well in the middle of the slit, the bracket on that side can be fully seated. But the other side has a well. Unlike the sides adjacent to that one, this well does not travel the full width of the slit - I can see a gap in it, which is maybe supposed to be wide enough to let the bracket on that side slide fully seat. But it's not wide enough, and it's clear that this half-well is the obstruction that is preventing the bracket from seating. Now, the AMD bracket (top pic below), which, again, is not the one I need, has notches in the bracket in the middle of one of the bracket sides (one such notch is being pointed at with a screwdriver in the pic). For the hell of it, I tried sliding the AMD brackets in. As I expected, they slid in with no issue, as the notches fit around the wells, allowing them to fully seat. How do I fix this? Did I get the wrong parts? I'm seriously wondering that because, strangely, the one well that is blocking one-half of the intel bracket is the only well that doesn't run all the way across the slit, almost as if it was designed to let the bracket slide past it despite the well's presence. But the clearance in that half-well is just not enough. To me, it looks to be about half the clearance I need. And then there's the AMD brackets with their notches - were the intel brackets supposed to have those notches and I just got sent the wrong bracket (maybe from some other CPU block model). Or am I just missing something obvious? Thanks
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Hi together, after a operating system downgrade (reinstall) from windows 11 pro to windows 10 pro (newest version 10. october 2022 including all updates) - my rgbs not working correctly. I have installed a commander pro which is control my rgb´s. At the first channel I have connected my xd5 pump - after the pump I have connected my gpu block and than I have connected my XC7 cpu block. At the second chanel I have connected a 6 port fan hub with 6 LL120 fans. After the downgrade my fan rgbs are still working but the rgbs from my pump, my gpu block and my cpu block are off. The pump itself works fine. I also have reinstalled the icue software (newest version: v4.28.177) and have configured my two rgb channels. For testing I have switched the rgb pump cable into the second channel of my commander pro and reconfigured the channel in iCue software (the rgbs are still off). If I put my Fan Hub into the first channel and reconfigure the channel in iCue software the fan leds works. Before downgrade to windows 10 everything works fine fo more than 12 months. Maybe anyone of you have a similar issue and can give me some tipps for troubleshooting? I really cant imagine why it works fine for more than 12 months and after a reinstall of my operating system there is a hardware issue - I hope there is an error in my configuration 😅 Many thanks in advance.
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Hello, I am currently in the process of building my first custom loop build in the 5000x case. I have a few concerns in regards to the fan/rgb situation I need some help on prior to my packages arrival though. (I messed up a few times properly measuring and bending my hardline tubes despite having the kit so I’m waiting for more tubes to try again 😅) Parts involved: XD5 Pump/Res XC7 CPU water block Gigabyte 3080 Gaming OC Waterforce 2x 360mm XR5 Radiators, each rad with 3x ML120mm pro rbg fans 3x SP RBG Elite fans (included with the 5000X case) 1x ML120 pro rbg fan (Lemme know if any other specs need to be listed) Additionally I do have a Commander Pro, 2x RGB Fan Led Hubs, 2x Lighting Node Pros and the case included hubs as well After reading through various posts including Zotty’s detailed guides, I attempted to diagram out how these things will all connect. If I can piece out this puzzle prior to the build being complete I imagine I’ll have a much easier time managing the million cables it feels like it has. Excuse the sloppy fan control lines, I have various splitters that should allow it to fill out the Commander Pro as needed. I am mostly concerned about the RBG situation. Will this layout work? Can I plug in 2 RGB Fan Led Hubs into 1 Lighting node Pro then into to the Commander Pro? Or 1 hub per 1 node? Can these be consolidated in any otherway? I also have 1 more ML120mm Fan that I’d like to set up as one more exhaust but I’m not sure how easily I can set it up considering the RBG hub for the ML fans is already 6/6. Do I consider another hub for this one fan? I technically do still have the case included Lighting Node Core(I think?)? Or is there like an RGB splitter I could use. I’m kinda worried about having 6 fans intaking air (3 front 3 side) but only 3 fans exhausting through the top radiator. I appreciate any and all the help.
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Bonjour, J'ai fait l'acquisition d'un watercooling custom récemment. Voici la liste des éléments : - x6 Fans => QL120 RGB -> regroupés par 3 sur 2 radiateurs XRT 360 - CPU Waterblock => XC7 RGB - GPU Waterblock => XG7 RGB - Pompe => XD5 RGB J'ai aussi un HUB avec la possibilité de brancher 6 fans. Mais du coup j'ai l'impression qu'il va me manquer certains éléments ? Peut-être un commander et un autre HUB? J'ai l'impression dans un premier temps que je peux chainer la pompe XD5 avec la XG7 du GPU puis mettre ça sur un AdressableRGB? À chaque fois (XC7 / XG7 et la XD5) il y a 2 cables et j'ai l'impression que les 3 peuvent être chainés pour finir sur un seul port ARGB de la Carte Mère. Pour infos la CM est une ASUS ROG Maximus XII Formula. Questions 1. Du coup est-ce que la XC7 + XG7 + XD5 sont bien chainables? Si oui le premier a un des 2 cables qui va nulle part et sur le dernier le second va dans la CM c'est bien ça? Mon véritable soucis ici est le branchement! Le HUB et le Commander PRO (que je n'ai pas pour ce dernier) ne peuvent accueillir chacun que 6 FANS! Hors j'ai 6 FANS + le FAN de la pompe! 2. Comment effectuer les branchements? Merci d'avance :)
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Hey guys, I sent an email to Rockitcool's support, but haven't heard back and thought the community here might be able to help me out. I have delidded my CPU and have a direct die frame from Rockitcool. They have quite a few videos and easy explanations of the process of using their tools, And they have a Corsair AIO Video which shows they have to shim it a bit for it to fit, and an EKWB Mounting video for Direct Die Frame that shows a different way of shimming the cooler. I believe our XC7 should be about the same kind of setup as an EKWB as far as height but wasn't sure since the Corsair WB is multifunctional and can be mounted to an AM4 socket with a bracket change, whereas the EK seems to be socket specific. Can anyone help me please determine if and potentially how much I need to shim the XC7 when going direct die? [ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57IZUdW4xh0]Corsair AIO Video[/ame] [ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KcFrvOZfcE]EKWB[/ame]
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hi hopefully this is in the right place but feel free to move it if it should be elsewhere. so i have three hydro x parts in my system (gpu, cpu blocks and the pump) all were working fine then playing doom eternal over the weekend they all stopped lighting up and the node wasnt detected within icue, i used USBDeview to check the connection to find it said it wasnt connected. i ordered a replacement with the rgb strips, hooked it all up and daisy chained the hydro x stuff, it worked for about 30 seconds. i assumed i was unlucky and got a defective on so got amazon to replace it. tested the new one in another system with only the rgb strips and worked flawlessly but as soon as i put in my main rig it stopped again almost straight away. surely i cannot of received two faulty products in a row. could the node have burnt out/fried when attached to my system? using corsair RM850X with the out of the box cables, i do have two sets of Deepcool MF120 fans on the same sata line with no problems with them. any help anyone could provide would be grateful :
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TL;DR: XC7 CPU block rgb suddenly started behaving erratically seemingly out of nowhere, instant lighting does not display colors correctly (Green illuminates as red for 95% of the LEDS), lighting animations cause strobing/flickering. I've done a fresh install of both windows and Icue, made sure all drivers and firmware are up to date, etc. I haven't messed with any of my cables and such before this started happening, so I'm thinking an Icue update might of messed something up along the way? Hey all, I'm writing here today because i've had a full hydrox loop set up for about 4 months now, and everything's been going great. Temperatures look good, the leak testing went well, i'm very happy with my system! However, about a week or so ago the RGB on my XC7 CPU block began to glitch and behave erratically, this was particularly obvious with animated lighting effects. This happens even with some of the colors under instant lighting only part of the block will change color, while the rest remains lit with an unexpected color. For example when I set the instant lighting to Green (particularly bright green, the darker shade works just fine for some reason), it seems only one LED changes to bright green while the other 15 LEDs in the CPU block are illuminated red for some reason. the same happens with the Red setting under instant lighting, one LED is red while the other 15 are blue. I've noticed that when i first boot my system up the default hardware profile for all my lighting devices is rainbow wave, and during the initial boot up the animation plays smoothly with no flickering, jittering, or lag UNTIL i log in to my desktop and it loads my default profile. When I manually set it to rainbow wave in the iCue software it starts flicking erratically and unpleasantly. I should note that the rest of my system's LEDs are behaving normally which consist of: 6 LL 120 fans, D5 Pump, and XG7 GPU block which are all connected to a CP and I have 4 lighting strips connected to a LNP as well. The rest of my components are illuminating fine and without issue. I should also add that I recently (this was after the problem began) got a new SSD to migrate my OS to and I figured this would be the perfect opportunity to do a fresh/clean install of windows, in hopes that a fresh install might fix this issue if it were a software issue. That apparently did not work even after having to install Icue again to the latest version. I'm wondering if this could potentially be a software issue, and is it a widespread/known issue? I'm really hoping it's not a hardware issue because it would suck to have to take my loop apart (even partially) just to RMA and replace a block for one with working RGB. It sounds silly, but I paid for all its features to work and I really want to get this fixed. I have no submitted a support ticket as I was hoping this could be an easy fix :). Here are links to the videos showing how the CPU block behaves before the Icue software kicks in and after: INITIAL BOOT [ame= ] [/ame] POST ICue starting up [ame= ] [/ame]
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Hello all. Still waiting on the two replacement commander pro's, and rockit cool just so happened to have a sale. I was wondering if anyone here might have some insight as to whether or not liquid Metal would adversely affect the nickel played copper bottom. This is also a shot in the dark (I sent an email to rockit cool as well) but in their instructions they have a couple of videos. One for an EK velocity/supremacy that shows how many washers / shims to use. They also have a Corsair aio video, which uses slightly more shimming. Could anyone say how closely related to the XC7 (in terms of height) The EK WB's would be? Are they similar, or is the block more closely related to Corsair's aio in terms of clearance? Any help would be appreciated.
