M65 RGB Elite, Left click issues

I'm on my third RMA myself but may have found a fix for this issue assuming you have a soldering iron and don't mind ordering new micro switches.

 

I took apart my old M65 PRO (which never had this issue) and found the micro switches were OMRON D2FC-F-7N(20M) with white caps. The new M65 ELITE has D2FC-F-K(50M) switches with blue caps and seem to have play in the switch. By pressing on the bare micro switch I was able to reproduce the issue. An audible click noise and physical response but no registered click. The switches in the M65 PRO do not have this issue and are noticeably more rigid and "crisp" feeling.

 

I just ordered some D2FC-F-7N(20M) switches and will attempt to replace the switches in my M65 ELITE with those when they come in. I will update y'all and maybe make a video on the process if it works. It's sad that Corsair has let such a glaring design flaw remain with no acknowledgement. Even if its just bad batches of switches it's inexcusable for a company that supposedly prides itself on "quality" gaming products. Sad.

 

Edit: A comment on amazon suggested D2F-01F switches instead of the 20M’s. I may buy those as well and see if they’re any better.

Edited May 17, 2020 by SteemSucker

I just got my RMA back. The left click seems to work for now, but the mouse they provided is a refurbished one, and the sides seems to have been smoothed out a lot, to the point the right side is very smooth and it makes my fingers sweat a lot and get sticky. Someone knows if working with fine sandpaper on it makes the texture more rough without ruining it?

Update as promised: I got the D2F-01F switches in first so I used them. They felt even more "clicky" than the D2FC-F-7N switches in the older M65 PRO. I got lazy so instead of making a video I'll put a short guide here.

 

Corsair M65 ELITE Microswitch Replacement Guide

 

Step 1: Remove the two screws located on the bottom of the mouse. (Screws are Phillips head on M65 ELITE, may be torx on older M65 PRO)

 

https://imgur.com/kXF5mIu

 

Step 2: Gently push down on both sides of the top plastic cover in the negative Y direction. The cover should be able to be bent backward slightly. Be careful not to pull on the ribbon cable that connects the DPI switch PCB to the main PCB.

 

https://imgur.com/t8KaRs5

 

Step 3: Unplug the DPI switch ribbon cable from the connector on the main PCB and set top cover aside.

 

https://imgur.com/wPNJsX3

https://imgur.com/PBGdvUj

 

Step 4: Remove the three screws holding the main PCB to the shell. Remove the main PCB.

 

https://imgur.com/wPMdRLz

 

Step 5: Desolder the microswitch(es). Careful not to damage any of the PCB components, or overheat the board. Patience is key. Clean up the solder around the holes to allow the new switch to be installed. A desoldering braid is extremely helpful.

 

https://imgur.com/PKNLrjf

https://imgur.com/SBxvinR

 

Step 6: Install the new switch. Take care to ensure the switch is fully seated as shown in the second picture below.

 

https://imgur.com/CQlz2k9

https://imgur.com/pE8nJmW

 

Step 7: Solder the new switch(es) in place. (excuse my poor soldering job :p:)

 

https://imgur.com/gE3xsQr

 

Step 8: Reinstall the components in reverse order. Ensure the two connectors and ribbon cable are reinstalled correctly. Note, the top cover can be tricky to get back on in place. The logo LED diffuser can be difficult to get back into position. Do not force it. Once you have it in the right place, it will snap together with minimal force.

 

https://imgur.com/LC1BEIS

 

Step 9: ??? Profit ??? Enjoy your new and improved M65!

 

https://imgur.com/27fMpsx

Edited May 25, 2020 by SteemSucker
For some stupid reason they block embedded images.

My M65 Elite, which I only had for 5 weeks, started to randomly miss out on left clicks as well.

We should not replace the switches ourselves to fix it.

Hello everyone. Just made an account to say my M65 is having the exact same issue less than 6 months from purchase. I'd heard such great things about the mouse so I figured it was a safe bet. I have never had a gaming mouse crap out on me so quickly after purchase. And the proof of purchase was foolishly thrown out by me months ago. I've also jumped through the typical troubleshooting hoops and am not about to replace the switches myself so guess I'm SOL. T_T

Same here, start a bit after 3-4 month. Now after 6 month I finally got time to find my receipt and for a surprise I got direct replacement from local dealer, customer service guy said this is know issue.

New package was different look from inside than older one, hopefully the product itself is also "new" and with better parts.

Good it have 2 year warranty so lot of time to give it a new opportunity.

My first Corsair product but hopefully not last one, this mouse fits perfectly in my small hands.

Update as promised: I got the D2F-01F switches in first so I used them. They felt even more "clicky" than the D2FC-F-7N switches in the older M65 PRO. I got lazy so instead of making a video I'll put a short guide here.

 

Corsair M65 ELITE Microswitch Replacement Guide

 

Step 1: Remove the two screws located on the bottom of the mouse. (Screws are Phillips head on M65 ELITE, may be torx on older M65 PRO)

 

https://imgur.com/kXF5mIu

 

Step 2: Gently push down on both sides of the top plastic cover in the negative Y direction. The cover should be able to be bent backward slightly. Be careful not to pull on the ribbon cable that connects the DPI switch PCB to the main PCB.

 

https://imgur.com/t8KaRs5

 

Step 3: Unplug the DPI switch ribbon cable from the connector on the main PCB and set top cover aside.

 

https://imgur.com/wPNJsX3

https://imgur.com/PBGdvUj

 

Step 4: Remove the three screws holding the main PCB to the shell. Remove the main PCB.

 

https://imgur.com/wPMdRLz

 

Step 5: Desolder the microswitch(es). Careful not to damage any of the PCB components, or overheat the board. Patience is key. Clean up the solder around the holes to allow the new switch to be installed. A desoldering braid is extremely helpful.

 

https://imgur.com/PKNLrjf

https://imgur.com/SBxvinR

 

Step 6: Install the new switch. Take care to ensure the switch is fully seated as shown in the second picture below.

 

https://imgur.com/CQlz2k9

https://imgur.com/pE8nJmW

 

Step 7: Solder the new switch(es) in place. (excuse my poor soldering job :p:)

 

https://imgur.com/gE3xsQr

 

Step 8: Reinstall the components in reverse order. Ensure the two connectors and ribbon cable are reinstalled correctly. Note, the top cover can be tricky to get back on in place. The logo LED diffuser can be difficult to get back into position. Do not force it. Once you have it in the right place, it will snap together with minimal force.

 

https://imgur.com/LC1BEIS

 

Step 9: ??? Profit ??? Enjoy your new and improved M65!

 

https://imgur.com/27fMpsx

 

 

Thanks for the help but...are you 100% sure it has been updated?

 

This is my 3rd faulty mouse, everything broke down after 3 months.

Edited June 3, 2020 by george.p

My M65 Elite, which I only had for 5 weeks, started to randomly miss out on left clicks as well.

We should not replace the switches ourselves to fix it.

If you are in warranty you can try to get a working mouse through the RMA process but after waiting a week+ every time for 3 replacements I don’t think that is going to fix the problem. There’s nothing wrong with replacing the switches yourself. Doing so should not void your warranty. As per the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, my understanding is that provided you do not damage the product while attempting to repair it, the warranty must be honored.

 

Hello everyone. Just made an account to say my M65 is having the exact same issue less than 6 months from purchase. I'd heard such great things about the mouse so I figured it was a safe bet. I have never had a gaming mouse crap out on me so quickly after purchase. And the proof of purchase was foolishly thrown out by me months ago. I've also jumped through the typical troubleshooting hoops and am not about to replace the switches myself so guess I'm SOL. T_T

You can still try contacting support to see if they’ll honor the warranty without proof of purchase. If not, what do you have to loose by doing a little solder work?

 

Thanks for the help but...are you 100% sure it has been updated?

 

This is my 3rd faulty mouse, everything broke down after 3 months.

Welcome to the club. What do you mean by updated? To my knowledge, there have not been any new revisions of this mouse with updated hardware.

Hello, I've had my M65 rgb Elite for around 3 months now, I too have a problem with the left click when playing games. While the right click did stop clicking awhile back, slamming it down seemed to fix it and it's been working well, the left side however just stopped working the last time I viewed this thread without an account (roughly a month ago), and am back because my left click undid whatever fixed it and is back to skipping clicks. Though it doesn't seem to be skipping clicks but rather is skipping clicks in a set amount of time every now and then.

I am beyond disappointed with Corsair, before it was mostly about their software/firmware, they could never get these damn things right, but now? Now you have Razer type issues, which I believe boils down to using cheap materials and/or poor QC. What saves the situation for them a little bit is the fact that their support is good.

 

Anyway, I am having the same issue, it happened some weeks ago, sometimes it misses clicks, some other time it may double click too fast.. if that even makes sense. It's a mess.

 

Guys, I am asking you, what is the consensus? Is it mechanical, is it software/fw related? Is every M65 elite RGB FUBAR? Personally, I think that it's a design flaw, something to do with the skeleton and the top being the way it is (one body).

 

Corsair, change the way you design mice, it's not a problem to copy from other companies. The g502 proteus core is hands down the best mouse I've ever touched, but it is HIDEOUS! But the switches are heavenly and practically immortal, my wife still uses it after what, 6 years? It's insane, it's like brand new. Your mice are beyond beautiful, but when it comes down to it.. they suck for other, more important reasons.

I am beyond disappointed with Corsair, before it was mostly about their software/firmware, they could never get these damn things right, but now? Now you have Razer type issues, which I believe boils down to using cheap materials and/or poor QC. What saves the situation for them a little bit is the fact that their support is good.

 

Anyway, I am having the same issue, it happened some weeks ago, sometimes it misses clicks, some other time it may double click too fast.. if that even makes sense. It's a mess.

 

Guys, I am asking you, what is the consensus? Is it mechanical, is it software/fw related? Is every M65 elite RGB FUBAR? Personally, I think that it's a design flaw, something to do with the skeleton and the top being the way it is (one body).

 

Corsair, change the way you design mice, it's not a problem to copy from other companies. The g502 proteus core is hands down the best mouse I've ever touched, but it is HIDEOUS! But the switches are heavenly and practically immortal, my wife still uses it after what, 6 years? It's insane, it's like brand new. Your mice are beyond beautiful, but when it comes down to it.. they suck for other, more important reasons.

 

I don't think it is a design flaw, I think it is related to the switches as I have a Raptor M45 mouse which uses the same design but doesn't have the metal frame but the top has the same sort of design and It doesn't have this issues and I have had it for like 3 years or so if not longer. The one thing I notice about the switches in the M45 is they have an overall better click sound(sounds more solid), they arn't sound as pingy sounding. I am going to try the switch replacement that SteemSucker above has done.

I am beyond disappointed with Corsair, before it was mostly about their software/firmware, they could never get these damn things right, but now? Now you have Razer type issues, which I believe boils down to using cheap materials and/or poor QC. What saves the situation for them a little bit is the fact that their support is good.

 

Anyway, I am having the same issue, it happened some weeks ago, sometimes it misses clicks, some other time it may double click too fast.. if that even makes sense. It's a mess.

 

Guys, I am asking you, what is the consensus? Is it mechanical, is it software/fw related? Is every M65 elite RGB FUBAR? Personally, I think that it's a design flaw, something to do with the skeleton and the top being the way it is (one body).

 

Corsair, change the way you design mice, it's not a problem to copy from other companies. The g502 proteus core is hands down the best mouse I've ever touched, but it is HIDEOUS! But the switches are heavenly and practically immortal, my wife still uses it after what, 6 years? It's insane, it's like brand new. Your mice are beyond beautiful, but when it comes down to it.. they suck for other, more important reasons.

 

I am about 100% certain the issue here is the switches. I have had no issues since replacing the switches in mine. Throughout the 4 mice I had, I experienced double clicking issues (tested using this tool), and what I call "light clicks" where the switch would not actuate even though an audible "click" is heard. Pressing harder made the clicks register for me but obviously that is unacceptable.

 

I don't think it is a design flaw, I think it is related to the switches as I have a Raptor M45 mouse which uses the same design but doesn't have the metal frame but the top has the same sort of design and It doesn't have this issues and I have had it for like 3 years or so if not longer. The one thing I notice about the switches in the M45 is they have an overall better click sound(sounds more solid), they arn't sound as pingy sounding. I am going to try the switch replacement that SteemSucker above has done.

 

Yes as I stated in my last post my older M65 PRO has an earlier revision switch (20M rating) which still work fine. I stopped using that mouse because the spring on the sniper button gave out but I may have a fix for that too... The newer switches rated to "50M" clicks seem to be absolute garbage and I wouldn't buy any corsair product that has them.

 

Anyhow, good luck with the switch replacement. Take your time, try not to overheat the board. Let me know if you have any questions.

Hello! I RMAed my M65 RGB Elite 6 months ago and it's already experiencing the same problem as the one I originally bought - left clicks are not registering despite there being an audible click. I even went so far as to not be as "aggressive" with my clicking while gaming. This has to be a manufacturing defect. I'm not paying the shipping cost for a 2nd replacement.

You can still try contacting support to see if they’ll honor the warranty without proof of purchase. If not, what do you have to loose by doing a little solder work?

 

I meant more as a principle, in fact Corsair should get those switches and replace them in the M65 Elites they get in.

I got an RMA request made and frankly linked to this thread asking them to send me the mentioned switches.

 

It's these your talking about?

https://www.elfadistrelec.dk/da/mikrobryter-d2f-100ma-1co-150gf-trykstang-omron-electronic-components-d2f-01/p/13587358?channel=b2c&price_gs=8.95&source=googleps&ext_cid=shgooaqdkda-blcss&kw=%7Bkeyword%7D&ext_cid=shgooaqdkda-P-CSS-Shopping-MainCampaign-Other&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrez30fXv6QIVVIuyCh1U0QrhEAQYASABEgLJvfD_BwE

 

On a site note, the switches in the GLAIVE RGB PRO I got do not suffer from this issue, it's glide is not as good as the M65, also find that the sensor on the M65 has better tracking, but that could be related to the glide as well.

The M65 Pro I had is also still working fine.

Edited June 7, 2020 by Mineria

I am about 100% certain the issue here is the switches. I have had no issues since replacing the switches in mine. Throughout the 4 mice I had, I experienced double clicking issues (tested using this tool), and what I call "light clicks" where the switch would not actuate even though an audible "click" is heard. Pressing harder made the clicks register for me but obviously that is unacceptable.

 

 

 

Yes as I stated in my last post my older M65 PRO has an earlier revision switch (20M rating) which still work fine. I stopped using that mouse because the spring on the sniper button gave out but I may have a fix for that too... The newer switches rated to "50M" clicks seem to be absolute garbage and I wouldn't buy any corsair product that has them.

 

Anyhow, good luck with the switch replacement. Take your time, try not to overheat the board. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

 

Well my switch replacement did not go well, I had an absolute nightmare getting the original solder to flow, and it appears I damaged something as after putting the new switch in it didn't work:sigh!::[pouts::wtfman::mad:

If you are in warranty you can try to get a working mouse through the RMA process but after waiting a week+ every time for 3 replacements I don’t think that is going to fix the problem. There’s nothing wrong with replacing the switches yourself. Doing so should not void your warranty. As per the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, my understanding is that provided you do not damage the product while attempting to repair it, the warranty must be honored.

 

 

You can still try contacting support to see if they’ll honor the warranty without proof of purchase. If not, what do you have to loose by doing a little solder work?

 

 

Welcome to the club. What do you mean by updated? To my knowledge, there have not been any new revisions of this mouse with updated hardware.

 

I mean, does the new switch work fine in every situation? Desktop, games etc. I'm still under warranty and i have anxious about doing this.

something that bothers me is that If the switch is the problem why most people complaint about left and not the right switch.

Edited June 8, 2020 by george.p

I don't think it is a design flaw, I think it is related to the switches as I have a Raptor M45 mouse which uses the same design but doesn't have the metal frame but the top has the same sort of design and It doesn't have this issues and I have had it for like 3 years or so if not longer. The one thing I notice about the switches in the M45 is they have an overall better click sound(sounds more solid), they arn't sound as pingy sounding. I am going to try the switch replacement that SteemSucker above has done.

most people have problem with the left switch.

If the switch is the problem, it should be the same with the right switch.

Edited June 8, 2020 by george.p

most people have problem with the left switch.

If the switch was the problem, it should be the same with the right switch.

 

Correct and I suspect if the Right button got clicked as much as the left it would have the same issue but considering it gets used less, it doesn't run into the issue.

Correct and I suspect if the Right button got clicked as much as the left it would have the same issue but considering it gets used less, it doesn't run into the issue.

 

Yes, except if you are a gamer, where you make heavy use of both.

Edited June 8, 2020 by george.p

Yes, except if you are a gamer, where you make heavy use of both.

 

SteemSucker and I have both the M65 Pro which has been working for years, same design but other switches, plus the sniper button has way better position on the Elite, the main reason for me getting one.

 

I would not advice you to change the switches if you don't have a temperature controllable solder-iron with a small tip, besides copper braiding etc.

Then rather find someone with the equipment and expertise to change them for you, the switches them selves are pretty cheap, makes me wonder why Corsair doesn't offer to install them instead or if one has what is needed to replace them just a pair of switches that don't crap out.

 

Also take note of what SteamSucker posted "By pressing on the bare micro switch I was able to reproduce the issue.", which says it all, it's not the design but the switches, left is always the one used the most, even in rts or moba.

Edited June 8, 2020 by Mineria

Come on Corsair, at least tell us that you are trying to solve the problem and so I will not have to keep doubting whether or not to repair my mouse by myself and lose warranty

SteemSucker and I have both the M65 Pro which has been working for years, same design but other switches, plus the sniper button has way better position on the Elite, the main reason for me getting one.

 

I would not advice you to change the switches if you don't have a temperature controllable solder-iron with a small tip, besides copper braiding etc.

Then rather find someone with the equipment and expertise to change them for you, the switches them selves are pretty cheap, makes me wonder why Corsair doesn't offer to install them instead or if one has what is needed to replace them just a pair of switches that don't crap out.

 

Also take note of what SteamSucker posted "By pressing on the bare micro switch I was able to reproduce the issue.", which says it all, it's not the design but the switches, left is always the one used the most, even in rts or moba.

 

You are right, if it is missing clicks as a bare switch, then the switch is to blame. Unfortunately, i don't have special equip so i must ask help from someone who has.

Thanks for the help! probably you prevented a disaster!

I meant more as a principle, in fact Corsair should get those switches and replace them in the M65 Elites they get in.

I got an RMA request made and frankly linked to this thread asking them to send me the mentioned switches.

 

It's these your talking about?

https://www.elfadistrelec.dk/da/mikrobryter-d2f-100ma-1co-150gf-trykstang-omron-electronic-components-d2f-01/p/13587358?channel=b2c&price_gs=8.95&source=googleps&ext_cid=shgooaqdkda-blcss&kw=%7Bkeyword%7D&ext_cid=shgooaqdkda-P-CSS-Shopping-MainCampaign-Other&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrez30fXv6QIVVIuyCh1U0QrhEAQYASABEgLJvfD_BwE

 

On a site note, the switches in the GLAIVE RGB PRO I got do not suffer from this issue, it's glide is not as good as the M65, also find that the sensor on the M65 has better tracking, but that could be related to the glide as well.

The M65 Pro I had is also still working fine.

 

Those appear to be correct. Note, that is an older design and not rated for as many clicks as the newer D2FC-F-7N switches rated for 20M clicks. The only reason I used those was because they came in first.

 

Well my switch replacement did not go well, I had an absolute nightmare getting the original solder to flow, and it appears I damaged something as after putting the new switch in it didn't work:sigh!::[pouts::wtfman::mad:

 

I'm sorry to hear that. If it wasn't physically damaged, I can only think that you overheated a chip. The original solder is quite hard to work with, and it took me a good 30 minutes to get the switches off millimeter by millimeter, pausing to allow the board to cool. You can still try an RMA replacement, however. I'm not sure if Corsair will honor the warranty in accordance with the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act as you did damage the device, but it's worth a shot. I wouldn't mention it to customer support.

 

I mean, does the new switch work fine in every situation? Desktop, games etc. I'm still under warranty and i have anxious about doing this.

something that bothers me is that If the switch is the problem why most people complaint about left and not the right switch.

 

As slowpok had issues with his, I would caution doing the replacement if you are not confident in your soldering abilities. That said, if you are careful not to overheat the board as I stated in my guide, it is a simple swap, although tedious. You might get lucky with a warranty replacement but it seems to me every single unit has this issue.

 

SteemSucker and I have both the M65 Pro which has been working for years, same design but other switches, plus the sniper button has way better position on the Elite, the main reason for me getting one.

 

I would not advice you to change the switches if you don't have a temperature controllable solder-iron with a small tip, besides copper braiding etc.

Then rather find someone with the equipment and expertise to change them for you, the switches them selves are pretty cheap, makes me wonder why Corsair doesn't offer to install them instead or if one has what is needed to replace them just a pair of switches that don't crap out.

 

Also take note of what SteamSucker posted "By pressing on the bare micro switch I was able to reproduce the issue.", which says it all, it's not the design but the switches, left is always the one used the most, even in rts or moba.

 

I used a standard pencil tip which worked just fine but a hotter iron would have been handy as the stock solder is a pain to work with.

 

Hello! I RMAed my M65 RGB Elite 6 months ago and it's already experiencing the same problem as the one I originally bought - left clicks are not registering despite there being an audible click. I even went so far as to not be as "aggressive" with my clicking while gaming. This has to be a manufacturing defect. I'm not paying the shipping cost for a 2nd replacement.

 

You don't need to pay shipping cost for RMA....they will send you a shipping label...

 

Come on Corsair, at least tell us that you are trying to solve the problem and so I will not have to keep doubting whether or not to repair my mouse by myself and lose warranty

 

In my opinion (I'm not a lawyer), Corsair cannot void your warranty for trying to repair an electronic device yourself in accordance with the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act

Washington Post article on the issue.

But yes, Corsair needs to address this issue. Honestly a class action lawsuit would be appropriate.

 

You are right, if it is missing clicks as a bare switch, then the switch is to blame. Unfortunately, i don't have special equip so i must ask help from someone who has.

Thanks for the help! probably you prevented a disaster!

 

If you do decide to do it yourself, be careful not to overheat your board. It appears someone already made that mistake. It took me a good 30 minutes to take both switches off, little by little, for a frame of reference. As soon as the solder liquefied, I applied pressure on the switch to move it off bit by bit and removed heat to let the board cool.

Those appear to be correct. Note, that is an older design and not rated for as many clicks as the newer D2FC-F-7N switches rated for 20M clicks. The only reason I used those was because they came in first.

 

Not all Omron switches allowing 50M clicks are bad though, I have an old

Level10 Advanced where they still work flawless, it doesn't have the best side button placement, wrong position of vent holes and the biggest glide pad has come lose.

Not all Omron switches allowing 50M clicks are bad though, I have an old

Level10 Advanced where they still work flawless, it doesn't have the best side button placement, wrong position of vent holes and the biggest glide pad has come lose.

 

It could be that Corsair got a huge batch of counterfeit or bad switches. I just don't know. But the 50M switches that come in the M65 ELITE are stamped "China", not Japan like the D2F-01F switches.