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  #16  
Old 04-22-2014, 01:14 PM
Azh Azh is offline
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Originally Posted by AdzUK View Post
I appreciate all the replies guys, gives me food for thought. :)

I am going to try plugging 2 fans directly into the motherboard and leaving the other 4 in the fan controller and seeing what happens.

As I said, if these fans had no led I wouldn't have even known there was an issue as they stop spinning, and everything appears to shut down as normal it's just the lights remain on - albeit very dim.

Oh and no there are no high voltage cables or radio transmitters near me.

Edit: Keep it sensible Azh... :)
I am, promise

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  #17  
Old 04-22-2014, 01:30 PM
jonnyguru jonnyguru is offline
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Originally Posted by Azh View Post
I'm bringing some popcorn, :D maybe you'll bring some sensible suggestions to the table, I wont hold my breath though
I love how you joined the forums just to troll in this thread.

Enjoy your popcorn.

You tell me how a PSU is generating DC power without AC power (remember, the PSU is unplugged from the wall) without taking into consideration that the nature of capacitors is to hold a charge.

Go ahead. I'll wait.

This is what you sound like to me so far: "The PSU is faulty because it's putting out DC power with no AC source." You're telling me that makes sense?

Like I said, if the PSU was still plugged in, I'd say it's a faulty switch. But he's pulled the power from the wall.
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  #18  
Old 04-22-2014, 01:34 PM
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UPDATE:

I have just shutdown the PC, switched off the PSU from the back.

Unplugged 2 fans from fan controller, the light obviously now goes off. I've plugged the fans directly into the motherboard and the fan light comes back on. This completely eliminates the fan controller. The motherboard is obviously getting some power coming from the PSU even thought the PSU is switched off.
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  #19  
Old 04-22-2014, 01:59 PM
jonnyguru jonnyguru is offline
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And the PSU is also unplugged, right? Because as long as that PSU is plugged in and you're getting power with the switch off, we can assume faulty switch. But if you unplug it from the wall, that eliminates the switch since there should be no AC power.

I just talked to one of the engineers at Corsair about this and he agrees with me.

The 1000W has a longer hold up time and more capacitors on the secondary side than the 700W. They're holding a charge longer.

The other possibility is this: Do you have anything plugged into the PC that holds any kind of charge? For example: are you using a USB port to charge anything? While the USB uses +5V and the fans are using +12V, there could be some sort of defect that is allowing the +5VSB to bleed over to the +12V. It's highly unlikely, but you can't rule anything out.
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  #20  
Old 04-22-2014, 02:09 PM
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Enough said :)
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  #21  
Old 04-22-2014, 02:30 PM
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Haha ^

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnyguru View Post
And the PSU is also unplugged, right? Because as long as that PSU is plugged in and you're getting power with the switch off, we can assume faulty switch. But if you unplug it from the wall, that eliminates the switch since there should be no AC power.

I just talked to one of the engineers at Corsair about this and he agrees with me.

The 1000W has a longer hold up time and more capacitors on the secondary side than the 700W. They're holding a charge longer.
Switch isn't faulty as it makes no difference whether PSU is unplugged or whether just the switch is off.

I would leave the PC off for longer to see how long the fans actually stay lit but I need to use it almost everyday due to work as well as the odd gaming session here and there. I am off on holiday next month and the PC will be off for a week. If I come back and the fans are still on, that's some power those capacitors are holding..

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnyguru View Post
The other possibility is this: Do you have anything plugged into the PC that holds any kind of charge? For example: are you using a USB port to charge anything? While the USB uses +5V and the fans are using +12V, there could be some sort of defect that is allowing the +5VSB to bleed over to the +12V. It's highly unlikely, but you can't rule anything out.
Nothing plugged in but that was something that was already suggested to me.
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  #22  
Old 04-22-2014, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnyguru View Post
... dribble.
you've said:

Quote:
the OCZ 700w psu has smaller capacitors / (do you mean capacitance?) hence why it keeps the fan controller / leds lit for a short while (you're wrong of course as the FAN LEDs switch off straight away)

the Corsair 1000w psu has 'more' capacitance hence why it allows to keep the fan controller AND THE FAN LEDs lit ... was it 18hrs and counting?
nobody is disputing what a capacitor does, it appears this 'special' PSU is releasing charge into the PC after the PC is switched off, if this is the case - is this a feature (lol) or fault? ...I know my ax1200i doesn't do this

Quote:

I love how you joined the forums just to troll in this thread.

This is what you sound like to me so far: "The PSU is faulty because it's putting out DC power with no AC source." You're telling me that makes sense
lol what are you on about, please quote where I have spurted that crap? you obviously want to believe that ...maybe the 'real' corsair engineer should come on this thread and give a sensible suggestion as there is certainly some 'thin air. ' coming out of you

anyways so adz:

you've tried the following with the same issue:

a new molex cable
a new connector on the psu
plugging the fans to the motherboard directly

hope you get it sorted soon, don't want the rest of your hardware to go 'lights out' (no pun intended).


Good luck
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  #23  
Old 04-22-2014, 04:21 PM
jonnyguru jonnyguru is offline
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Originally Posted by AdzUK View Post
Haha ^

Switch isn't faulty as it makes no difference whether PSU is unplugged or whether just the switch is off.

I would leave the PC off for longer to see how long the fans actually stay lit but I need to use it almost everyday due to work as well as the odd gaming session here and there. I am off on holiday next month and the PC will be off for a week. If I come back and the fans are still on, that's some power those capacitors are holding..

Nothing plugged in but that was something that was already suggested to me.
What is the make/model of the fans? I'd like to look into them.

Also, do you have a DMM to measure the voltage on the +12V? As the caps drain, that voltage should drop, but it could still drop to a low enough voltage that can keep the LEDs lit up. A +12V LED doesn't necessarily need +12V to stay lit.
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  #24  
Old 04-22-2014, 04:35 PM
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I don't have anything to measure the voltage.

These are the fans:

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...=2331&subcat=4

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...mcs3=FG-037-AE
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  #25  
Old 04-22-2014, 04:42 PM
jonnyguru jonnyguru is offline
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See if you can get your hands on a DMM. You should be measuring at least 1V and that could be enough to keep those LEDs lit up.

I'm going to see if I can duplicate the issue here. If this is normal, I should be able to replicate the issue and I should be able to get a voltage reading after power off. I'll see how low that voltage is and how long it holds that charge.

Last edited by jonnyguru; 04-22-2014 at 04:46 PM.
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  #26  
Old 04-22-2014, 04:50 PM
jonnyguru jonnyguru is offline
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Originally Posted by Azh View Post

lol what are you on about, please quote where I have spurted that crap? you obviously want to believe that ...maybe the 'real' corsair engineer should come on this thread and give a sensible suggestion as there is certainly some 'thin air. ' coming out of you
Because you're ignoring the fact that he's unplugged the PSU from the wall. There's no AC power coming into the PSU. There is a charge in the caps. LEDs can run off very low voltage, so while the power out may not be 12V, it can be as low as 1V, still power the LEDs and take longer to discharge the caps.

You can "try another molex" or "plug it into the motherboard instead of the fan controller", etc. all day long, but that doesn't change the fact that there's a DC source somewhere. He has nothing with a charge plugged into the PC (i.e. powered HDD enclosure, phone, powered USB hub, etc.) so the power should be coming from the PSU.... yet the PSU is not plugged in.
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  #27  
Old 04-22-2014, 08:08 PM
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So far, with no load, I get +0.4V on the +12V after the PSU is shut down... and it holds that for a while. But what I've yet to find out is how long it can maintain that 0.4V charge and is that enough to light those LEDs. I might have to buy some of those fans just to test it out.

We're going to perform the same test with some older PSUs (AX1200i, for example) to see if we can duplicate it. The capacitance is around the same, but the AX1200i is a very different topology than the RM1000. Also, a lot of resistance has been removed from the PSU to improve low load efficiency for ErP, Energy Star, etc. and this held charge may be a by product of that. IIRC, the AX1200i is ErP2010 complaint, but not ErP2013.

Last edited by jonnyguru; 04-22-2014 at 08:13 PM.
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  #28  
Old 04-22-2014, 11:48 PM
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I know exactly what the problem is, it's a BAD power supply !!!! so please stop all this nonsense and replace the defective power supply already!!!
his old power supply was not doing this so DUH
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  #29  
Old 04-23-2014, 12:13 AM
jonnyguru jonnyguru is offline
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I know exactly what the problem is, it's a BAD power supply !!!! so please stop all this nonsense and replace the defective power supply already!!!
his old power supply was not doing this so DUH
I know that over simplifying things in life can help one sleep better at the end of the day, but his old power supply is completely different than his new one.

What are you and maddness going to post if he does an RMA and the replacement does the exact same thing?

Since he just got the PSU, it may not cost anything to do an RMA throgh the retailer, but if the replacement does the same thing, we're back at square one and the OP suffers unnecessary down time.

Last edited by jonnyguru; 04-23-2014 at 12:19 AM.
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  #30  
Old 04-23-2014, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnyguru View Post
I know that over simplifying things in life can help one sleep better at the end of the day, but his old power supply is completely different than his new one.

What are you and maddness going to post if he does an RMA and the replacement does the exact same thing?

Since he just got the PSU, it may not cost anything to do an RMA throgh the retailer, but if the replacement does the same thing, we're back at square one and the OP suffers unnecessary down time.
I am not trying to simplify this, I am just saying it's a bad psu. I am a auto and truck diagnostics tech for 30 years now with 10 of those years performing auto and truck computer programing and diagnostics, and, the first step in troubleshooting a problem is to remove the part you installed when the problem started. this saves time and money. in my job I am graded on how efficiently I use the time I am allowed to figure out what is wrong with a car or truck I am performing the diagnostics on and this thread is wasting lots of time. I have to follow a labor guide and if it say's the diagnostics I am performing at the current time is to take me no longer then 6 hours then I must do it in 6 hours or less, every month my efficiency is totaled up and I am always 120% or higher in my efficiency.
bottom line is good customer service you should just say lets try another psu.
so stop wasting the customers time.

Last edited by jlhawn; 04-23-2014 at 12:39 AM.
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