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Old 09-16-2017, 07:26 PM
psoto psoto is offline
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Default Help with fan malfunction on H80i v2

Firstly, thanks for your help. To clarify, I'm using the H80i v2, and it uses two fans, one on each side of the radiator. The fans plug into the pump, and the pump plugs into the CPU_Fan connection on the motherboard. It also plugs into a USB connection on the motherboard, as well.

Recently, one of the fans started spinning slower than usual.


To solve the problem, I replaced the fan, but the problem persists. I also adjusted the settings within the BIOS, and the fan management software, Corsair Link 4. Still, the problem persists.

Since the fan is plugged into the pump, I'm lead to believe the unit is malfunctioning. I've reached out to Customer Service, but am not getting much help. I decided to ask the community.

Is this problem one with the unit, or something else??

Setup:
https://imgur.com/a/F7BOy

Thanks for reading!

Last edited by psoto; 09-16-2017 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 09-16-2017, 09:34 PM
c-attack c-attack is online now
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How much slower? Post a screen shot of Link if you can.

Also, don't alter the BIOS fan settings in an effort to control the fans and/or pump. The system does not work that way. The BIOS header (in this case CPU FAN) should be set to 100% at all times. On Asus this is called "Full Speed" in Q-Fan or Disabled in the Advanced BIOS. There might be some language variations for the phrase if your BIOS is not in English, but you should be able to differentiate. Reducing the voltage below 12v/100% will have an effect on both pump and fan speeds.
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Old 09-16-2017, 10:27 PM
psoto psoto is offline
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I have since gone into the BIOS, and set the CPU fan to 100%.

Here is what my Link currently shows: https://imgur.com/a/4rguX. I've written more info on the pictures.

My rpm's used to fluctuate with each degree change in CPU temp. Now it hardly moves air. My temps have gone up, not to an inoperable range, but a five degree change.
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Old 09-16-2017, 11:23 PM
c-attack c-attack is online now
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I don't know the location for fans 1, 2, & 3. It is likely other case fans or hardware. Your radiator fans are listed in the H80i v2 box next to pump speed and coolant temperature. On the H80i v2, I believe there is only one speed sensor and you will only see one speed reported (1200 rpm in the picture). If you look at the splitter, it should have 4 pins on one and 3 on the other. This is deliberate and 4 pin line is the reporting value. Without a clear physical difference in fan speed between them (and likely have some bearing noise), they are probably turning at the same speed.

If the fans were changing speed with every degree in CPU temperature, you likely linked the fans to the CPU temp group. While this will keep moving heat out of the system, it is not how the cooler (or any cooler) really functions and it will certainly cause a lot of fan revving and possibly some other strange behavior. The default variable for fan control is the H80i v2 Temp or coolant temperature. This is also in the H80i box in Link. This is a slow to change variable and ideal for fan control since this is what the fans actually do -- remove heat from the coolant stream, not cool the CPU directly. The CPU lid, TIM, and cold plate transfer heat directly from the CPU. No fan or pump settings will alter this rate directly. The second stage of cooling is the liquid, which transports the heat to an exit point. The fans help the radiator shed its heat.

I would recommend you put the fans back on the H80i v2 temp group. It will take some getting used to, but once you learn your normal operating range, you will have a much easier time getting the fans to behave exactly as you like. You don't need a lot of fan speed. Slow and steady will get the job done. Coolant temp and CPU temp are both environmentally dependent, so make sure you are comparing results in the same conditions. This is especially true if using the H80i v2 in the rear exhaust above the GPU. Long GPU loads will alter the local case and coolant temp. Coolant temperature is effectively the minimum possible CPU temp, but remember you can only lower CPU temp by lowering coolant temp. So if the initial value was 29C and your are currently at 33C, the most you could possible reduce the CPU temp is 4C - at any fan speed. Piling on fan speed to lower CPU temp by 2C is usually a bad trade for noise.
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Old 09-17-2017, 01:14 AM
psoto psoto is offline
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Thanks for explaining how aio's work, and what I can do for better performance. Until today, I didn't know how the BIOS and cooler worked together. I've since fixed it.

This also explained the fluctuating fan speeds I've been experiencing. However, it did cool my chip well in doing so. I'm now considering the H115 because I want temps cooler than the 66C I now have.

Thanks for your help. I hope to contribute to the forums as much in the future.
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Old 09-17-2017, 07:31 AM
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The preset curves in Link (Quiet Balanced, Performance) were all designed around the coolant temperature variable. I can't remember if the H80iv2 maxes at 40 or 45C, but obviously that isn't very high for a CPU core temp. If you did not alter the fan curves and set it CPU Package temp, it is likely the fans were turning a very brisk pace. 2200 rpm will likely makes things slightly cooler than 1500 rpm, so it you want to run that fast you can. However, the fans yo-yo-ing back and forth between 2200 and 1500 is not helpful and more noticeable than running at a flat 2000+. There is nothing special about the 40C=100% mark. Most people want it to go a bit quieter and bump it up. You can also lower it if you want the fans to go faster, but that is a rare request. Take a look at the starting H80iv2 Temp when making comparisons and measure the delta from start to load. Also note how it compares to room temperature. Most people run 4-7C above the room temp, but this is case and location specific.

You might be able to take a few more degrees off with a 280mm radiator. Without a doubt, you can have the same results for a fraction of the fan speed. Much more surface area on a 280mm and it allows you to be gentle. My HW-E outputs a lot more watts than you and I can let it float between 600-1000 for all tasks with a ton of headroom. Just keep in mind the limitation on Kaby Lake will always be at the CPU itself. At a certain voltage, there will be more heat at the CPU cores than the CPU can transfer out fast enough. It won't matter if you have a 10m radiator or firehose, the CPU won't be able to get rid of the heat. The cooler side is more like a transport system to get rid of it somewhere else and the first stage is CPU core to lid to TIM to cold plate heat transfer.

Last edited by c-attack; 09-17-2017 at 11:34 AM.
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