Corsair HP

Hi All, We have been actively monitoring this, and appreciate any who have reached out with details and logs. We are aware of the issue and investigating internally for how to best deploy a fix. We will keep you updated once we know more. It is "unfortunately" not an issue that always happen, but more a bit on random with many different factors which are always harder to find and replicate. We hope to have a resolution soon, but I cannot tell when this will be

Hi Dave, could you please create a ticket at https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/requests/new ? We are aware of this issue and you can read more about it here:

This cable plugs directly into the PSU via our type-4 connector, each of which will push well beyond 300W. This is why only 2 connectors are needed. The adapters shipped with the GPU's are reliant on PCI-e specifications and must take into account that each of the 8 pin PCI-e connectors might only be able to push 150W.

It's a few days since you wrote this, but I wanted to chime in and say that the new 12VHPWR cable we just released will work just fine on your HX1000i, and will even support a 4090 Founders Edition. https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/PC-Components/Power-Supplies/600W-PCIe-5-0-12VHPWR-Type-4-PSU-Power-Cable/p/CP-8920284

It is compatible yes

Hi Kampers, You can get the cable trough our webstore which ships out of the netherlands. https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/PC-Components/Power-Supplies/600W-PCIe-5-0-12VHPWR-Type-4-PSU-Power-Cable/p/CP-8920284 You should be able to see it in stock on the EU site soon - I am not sure if any of your local retailers will be stocking the cable.

Some leak testers will actually loose air out of the actual leak tester. I always have a drain valve in between the leak tester and the loop itself, then I pump it up to the adviced bar and shut off the valve between the loop and leak tester. That way, after some time when I open up the valve again the needle should either have not moved, or move back up to the starting position.

Please download HWinfo 7.13 or later - this version should give you the option to see GPU Hot Spot Temperature - check this before doing anything else. If this sensor shows 70-90C when mining, then you most likely have bad contact on your block.

While this looks cool and intricate you probably made it more complex, and less optimal in regards of performance than it could have been. I can't really tell how exactly that loop is plumbed up, but to me it seems like you have massively overcomplicated things. The XD7 should never be mounted in that location which is also stated in the manual - it should only be mounted upright as the reservoir portion will otherwise not function correctly. The XD7 is designed with multiple inlet and outlet ports in mind, but they all run in serial as having all the ports be in parallel would not be good for most loops. You will not gain anything by having multiple pumps pushing coolant out to separate components, especially not in this setup. I do appreciate new and crazy things but as you said yourself, it was a pain to bleed, and I think you might also run into other problems. Best setup for a system like this would probably be to take out the XD7, and just run the two XD3's in serial since you have them. I would not bother with the split inlet and outlet, but just run the entire loop in one length. Also, I can see you have mounted a temperature sensor in the "bottom" of your XD7 - this is not a compatible place for the temp sensor as the coolant in that area is stale and not moving, so you will not get an accurate temperature readout.

Try and screw in one of the screws from the new cooler - if the threads fits, then you should not need to remove it.

I would reccomend having the 4 fans (front or side + back) push fresh air into the case, and have the two 360mm radiators blow air out of the case in a 5000D setup. I configure most of my 5000D builds with 3 intake fans in the front, a intake fan in the rear and side/top radiator as exhaust..

Seems that you already got answered a good bit of your questions so I will just add a bit to it. Your problem is definitely airflow obstruction. The case it not exactly known for super great airflow (I've done a few builds in them myself), and enclosed in the closet was your biggest issue. When showing your results, it is worth also noting the fan speeds. You say that you run the Hydro X fan curves and from that we can kinda guess what you are running at. For comparison, I can run a 3080 + 7980XE (total 540W under load) with a single free standing XR5 360mm radiator with QL fans running at 1000 RPM (coolant temp at 48C, ambient 24.2c). If I bump the fans to 1500 RPM then I get the coolant down to 43C. So a case, and a case location with great airflow will give you a significant performance boost. I would not worry too much about it though, as your temps now seems fine, and you would "only" gain a less noisy system by upgrading your case.

If you are using the original pads it should be as simple as sliding the m.2 into the bottom part, and then pressing the top part down on top of the drive until the 4 clips click in place. Can you show some images of what your problem is?

That might be your issue. Also, as mentioned by others, so many commanders is not at all needed unless you want to run each fan at a different RPM (which should not be needed in your case). But since you already have the hardware, we might as well get it to work. Try running: motherboard USB header Commander PRO Commander PRO RGB hub 1 RGB hub 2 Commander Core XT And skip the USB 2.0 hub that you are using now.

The 360mm is including fans in the front - so total length to the front brackets would be around 385mm, so you should have plenty of room for your GPU.