SteemSucker

It could be that Corsair got a huge batch of counterfeit or bad switches. I just don't know. But the 50M switches that come in the M65 ELITE are stamped "China", not Japan like the D2F-01F switches.

Those appear to be correct. Note, that is an older design and not rated for as many clicks as the newer D2FC-F-7N switches rated for 20M clicks. The only reason I used those was because they came in first. I'm sorry to hear that. If it wasn't physically damaged, I can only think that you overheated a chip. The original solder is quite hard to work with, and it took me a good 30 minutes to get the switches off millimeter by millimeter, pausing to allow the board to cool. You can still try an RMA replacement, however. I'm not sure if Corsair will honor the warranty in accordance with the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act as you did damage the device, but it's worth a shot. I wouldn't mention it to customer support. As slowpok had issues with his, I would caution doing the replacement if you are not confident in your soldering abilities. That said, if you are careful not to overheat the board as I stated in my guide, it is a simple swap, although tedious. You might get lucky with a warranty replacement but it seems to me every single unit has this issue. I used a standard pencil tip which worked just fine but a hotter iron would have been handy as the stock solder is a pain to work with. You don't need to pay shipping cost for RMA....they will send you a shipping label... In my opinion (I'm not a lawyer), Corsair cannot void your warranty for trying to repair an electronic device yourself in accordance with the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act Washington Post article on the issue. But yes, Corsair needs to address this issue. Honestly a class action lawsuit would be appropriate. If you do decide to do it yourself, be careful not to overheat your board. It appears someone already made that mistake. It took me a good 30 minutes to take both switches off, little by little, for a frame of reference. As soon as the solder liquefied, I applied pressure on the switch to move it off bit by bit and removed heat to let the board cool.

I am about 100% certain the issue here is the switches. I have had no issues since replacing the switches in mine. Throughout the 4 mice I had, I experienced double clicking issues (tested using this tool), and what I call "light clicks" where the switch would not actuate even though an audible "click" is heard. Pressing harder made the clicks register for me but obviously that is unacceptable. Yes as I stated in my last post my older M65 PRO has an earlier revision switch (20M rating) which still work fine. I stopped using that mouse because the spring on the sniper button gave out but I may have a fix for that too... The newer switches rated to "50M" clicks seem to be absolute garbage and I wouldn't buy any corsair product that has them. Anyhow, good luck with the switch replacement. Take your time, try not to overheat the board. Let me know if you have any questions.

If you are in warranty you can try to get a working mouse through the RMA process but after waiting a week+ every time for 3 replacements I don’t think that is going to fix the problem. There’s nothing wrong with replacing the switches yourself. Doing so should not void your warranty. As per the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, my understanding is that provided you do not damage the product while attempting to repair it, the warranty must be honored. You can still try contacting support to see if they’ll honor the warranty without proof of purchase. If not, what do you have to loose by doing a little solder work? Welcome to the club. What do you mean by updated? To my knowledge, there have not been any new revisions of this mouse with updated hardware.

Update as promised: I got the D2F-01F switches in first so I used them. They felt even more "clicky" than the D2FC-F-7N switches in the older M65 PRO. I got lazy so instead of making a video I'll put a short guide here. Corsair M65 ELITE Microswitch Replacement Guide Step 1: Remove the two screws located on the bottom of the mouse. (Screws are Phillips head on M65 ELITE, may be torx on older M65 PRO) https://imgur.com/kXF5mIu Step 2: Gently push down on both sides of the top plastic cover in the negative Y direction. The cover should be able to be bent backward slightly. Be careful not to pull on the ribbon cable that connects the DPI switch PCB to the main PCB. https://imgur.com/t8KaRs5 Step 3: Unplug the DPI switch ribbon cable from the connector on the main PCB and set top cover aside. https://imgur.com/wPNJsX3 https://imgur.com/PBGdvUj Step 4: Remove the three screws holding the main PCB to the shell. Remove the main PCB. https://imgur.com/wPMdRLz Step 5: Desolder the microswitch(es). Careful not to damage any of the PCB components, or overheat the board. Patience is key. Clean up the solder around the holes to allow the new switch to be installed. A desoldering braid is extremely helpful. https://imgur.com/PKNLrjf https://imgur.com/SBxvinR Step 6: Install the new switch. Take care to ensure the switch is fully seated as shown in the second picture below. https://imgur.com/CQlz2k9 https://imgur.com/pE8nJmW Step 7: Solder the new switch(es) in place. (excuse my poor soldering job :p:) https://imgur.com/gE3xsQr Step 8: Reinstall the components in reverse order. Ensure the two connectors and ribbon cable are reinstalled correctly. Note, the top cover can be tricky to get back on in place. The logo LED diffuser can be difficult to get back into position. Do not force it. Once you have it in the right place, it will snap together with minimal force. https://imgur.com/LC1BEIS Step 9: ??? Profit ??? Enjoy your new and improved M65! https://imgur.com/27fMpsx

I'm on my third RMA myself but may have found a fix for this issue assuming you have a soldering iron and don't mind ordering new micro switches. I took apart my old M65 PRO (which never had this issue) and found the micro switches were OMRON D2FC-F-7N(20M) with white caps. The new M65 ELITE has D2FC-F-K(50M) switches with blue caps and seem to have play in the switch. By pressing on the bare micro switch I was able to reproduce the issue. An audible click noise and physical response but no registered click. The switches in the M65 PRO do not have this issue and are noticeably more rigid and "crisp" feeling. I just ordered some D2FC-F-7N(20M) switches and will attempt to replace the switches in my M65 ELITE with those when they come in. I will update y'all and maybe make a video on the process if it works. It's sad that Corsair has let such a glaring design flaw remain with no acknowledgement. Even if its just bad batches of switches it's inexcusable for a company that supposedly prides itself on "quality" gaming products. Sad. Edit: A comment on amazon suggested D2F-01F switches instead of the 20M’s. I may buy those as well and see if they’re any better.