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Latharion

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Latharion last won the day on May 27 2022

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  1. Two things to note about open-loop cooling systems. First, trapped air pockets will slowly work their way through the system and end up in the res. This can appear to be like it's losing water but what is actually happening is that water is displacing the previous air pockets. Second, water, in an open-loop system, is subject to environmental changes, like low humidity, etc, thus the water will evaporate over time. Just top it off as needed. If you are concerned about possible leakage, take some blue paper towels (blue is easier to spot moisture on), and place the paper towels under the fittings. Check once in awhile during the day to see if any moist spots appear on the towels. If they do, you can probably discern where the leak is coming from and act accordingly.
  2. I run my pump at full speed currently, but I do cycle it to about 60% now and then. I used to run it at 55% but my loop started to develop growth issues so now I run it at full speed and have noticed no growth issues. Your loop looks good though. Mine is very similar to your setup with the main difference being mine has an extra 360 rad in the loop. I also used soft tubing (as you have) instead of rigid, and I've found that it works great.
  3. This looks like algae growth or bacterial growth. Did you flush your radiators before the final fill? The radiators should be flushed with distiller water or distiller water and a flush additive, or a solution of distiller water and vinegar, and then flushe3d with straight distilled water. This will remove oxidized flux and other sediment that may still be lurking within the radiators. The tubing should likewise be flushed. The blocks probably do not need to be flushed though it would do no harm to do that. One thing that can be done to help prevent future growth issues is to run the pump at a higher RPM, and vary the RPM occasionally. Algae and bacteria both prefer stagnant flow so if there are areas that receive less flow or the flow is slower overall, it could cause some to show up. Maybe also research if an anti-algal additive can be used with XL8.
  4. You need a 1/4 to 1/4 male to male adapter (any length that fits within the build will work fine) to connect the y-splitter to the ball valve.
  5. Both pieces are cosmetic in nature. They are used to cover cables. Neither one should hamper air-flow in any meaningful way. Both are optional.
  6. The best way to clean the loop is to disassemble it and rinse each part with distilled water before reassembly. Barring that, emptying the loop and filling it with distilled water will help clean it.
  7. The XC7, XG5, and XD5 can all be daisy-chained together and connected to one RGB header on the CCXT.
  8. It might be some kind of algae or bacteria. It looks like it may be time to disassemble the cooling loop and clean the parts. Add fresh coolant when done (do not reuse the old liquid).
  9. When I do maintenance on my Hydro system, I also use a spare PSU with the included PSU bypass dongle thingy. I noticed the same behavior. I have to remind myself to disconnect the PWM lead for the XD5 from my CoPro or it runs at around 40% or thereabouts. I do try to remember to reconnect the PWM lead when finished.
  10. I had some gunk related issues with my Corsair Hydro loop a few months ago. I dismantled the entire loop and cleaned every part. To clean the parts, I used some 99% iso alcohol on the copper plates and then rinsed them with distilled water. I also bathed the non-metal parts of the XC9 with a mild solution of dish soap and water. and then rinsed them with distilled water. For the rads, I flushed them with distilled water, and I washed all of the tubing with a mild solution of dish soap and water, followed by a rinse with distilled water. I also rinsed the fittings with distilled water just to be sure. The gunk build up was from Corsair's XL8 Clear. I don't blame anyone for it, it happens with custom cooling. The OP's issue is rather extreme though. Note: edited for spelling.
  11. @Alan252525 Zotty's diagram shows him using a Commander Core XT to connect the six RGB fans he used for his push-pull set up. Here is a link to the Commander Core XT on Corsair's store site... Commander Core XT A second Commander Core XT would be used for more RGB fans etc.
  12. There would be no benefit to running two pump/res combos in the same system on the same loop. There may be some benefit to running two loops, one for CPU and one for GPU, but with such a small system, it would be relatively cramped. One or two rads 360 or 280 rads would be sufficient to cool both a CPU and a GPU with a single pump. The XD5 and XD3 both have sufficient power to maintain a good flow rate in two or three rad each. This is why having two on the same loop is at the very least unnecessary, and could possibly impede water flow. When considering number of rads, a good measure is one rad per hardware piece to be cooled.
  13. Also note that some flow meters have a minimum flow rate they need before they will rotate.
  14. My guess is the pump's default RPM (when connected to the Commander Pro) is too low to register on your flow meter. It is probably still moving liquid though because a vibration was felt on the pump. One way to check if t his is the case is to create a profile in iCUE for the pump and increase the pump's RPM (try 65 to 70% as a test). Play around with the values until a value is found that meets the need.
  15. A performance profile can be created manually instead of using the wizard. The wizard simply generates a setting that can be used to control the pump and fans that is set to automatically control the speeds based on the temp sensor in the XD5 pump. The same settings can be created manually if desired.
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