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About Me



Optical Drive # 1







  1. So I recently got my pc build setup, and all the physical components work just fine. I plugged 2 corsair RGB hubs into the commander pro. All the rgb lights turn on, and all the core components function as expected. However, in the corsair iCue app, the only information that is displayed are from my temperature sensors and my fan speed, and it is only showing the info from 4 of my 9 fans., I cannot change the speed or color of my fans. Furthermore, the only buttons/tabs on the screen are "home" and "dashboard", as well as the "default profile" button. I can still hit the 3 dots to interact with the widgets, but I can only remove or rename them. I can add new sensors, but there is nothing that hasn't already been added. I do not think I installed any hardware incorrectly, and I do not know what software I would be missing to get the iCue app properly working. I installed the latest version available (4.32.129), uninstalled it and reinstalled it after cleaning things up. The only thing I could think I might of done wrong was in my bios, but I didn't exactly change much, so I don't think it would cause many issues. If someone could help me with this, it would be great. I'm struggling to find out where to start after installing iCue, and nothing seems to have worked out smoothly with this build. my specs, if that is important: motherboard: aorus z790 ax (ddr5 support) cpu: 13th gen i7-13700k gpu: Aorus 2080ti extreme waterforce fans: - 2 sets of sp120 rgb elite - 1 set of LL120 Pictures of my iCue app:
  2. So, I woke up this morning to find out that my KATAR Pro Wireless Mouse wouldn't turn on or pair with my computer (MacBook Pro M1 Max). The DPI LED did not turn on as well even though it is clearly switched on: In the iCUE app it mentions the mouse as being turned off, I have tried resetting it with the following steps: Turn off the mouse Hold LMB + RMB Turn on the mouse Release LMB + RMB after 5 sec But it all doesn't work and the mouse doesn't turn on, and I have checked the batteries and they are around 80%. The mouse is only 2 weeks old, how can I fix this?
  3. Hi! I am having an issue with the CPU cooler in my PC build. Whenever I boot my PC, the fans on the cooler run and it looks like the cooler is working. However, in my BIOS, the RPM shows 0 and the CPU (Intel i7-12700K) temperature rises. Is there anyone who is having the same issue and/or knows what I can do to fix it?
  4. Hi, Around 1 month ago I brought H150i Elite Cappelix. I run it on stock thermal paste and it was quiet, but after changing it for Thermal grizzly one, I got this sound, This been 2 weeks ago, and still no change.Temps are excellent, it's just a noise (less then 50C in games/25-30 Idle/65 in Cinebench R23 multi-core after 10 minutes) * ALL on BALANCED settings on iCUE* I've tried pin point the problem and it's definitely pump. Thinks I've done: -Tilted PC in all directions -Run AIO on extream on it's side for more then 1 hour -Turning ON AIO without attached to socket ( same sound) -Using washers on Fans screws. Video: https://imgur.com/a/qqcuXKN *On idle pump is QUITE quiet so,it's hard to hear it on video, When you can hear the pump it's when I open up a random game ( It happens in every game/CPU intensive tasks) The only fix I found was limiting fps in games to 60-90 fps and noise is reduced by like 50% and sound just like on desktop* Also the noise you hear I can hear it, with side panels ON and 2 meters from me at around 70% of what you hear. Also the "liquid moving" sound you hear only happens when you start a game for around 20-45 sec then it's disappear. My Amazon return window is ending in 2 days. Is that noise a sign of something bigger ? I really want to avoid Returning it because I would not be able to use PC until new one arrive.
  5. Hi all Unsure if this is an issue with the RAM or the Motherboard, but hopefully someone can help either way! Basically, 9 times out of 10 when I boot up, the RAM (Corsair Dominator Plat DDR5) isn't recognised by either iCUE or CPU-Z. It is there, and the Windows system sees I have 32gb of RAM, but iCUE can't detect it (the lighting doesn't change to what it should and in iCUE there is a little red warning triangle saying it has 'Stopped detecting data from DRAM....'. In CPU-Z the issue is with SPD I think, as loading up CPU-Z hangs at that stage and inside that tab, it shows nothing in any of the 4 RAM slots. In the Memory tab it shows I have 32gb and the speeds are correct, but the SPD tab shows nothing at all?? I'm unsure if this is actually affecting performance, or just a visual thing. I did see posts on Google saying that with ASUS boards, you can disable an SPD setting to fix the issue, but unfortunately I have an MSI board (MPG Carbon Wifi) and it doesn't have this setting. It has the latest BIOS and the RAM also does (I assume - iCUE, when it can detect the RAM, says there are no firmware updates). Rebooting the PC *SOMETIMES* fixes the issue on the first reboot, but other times it can take 2-3 reboots back to back for the RAM to be recognised. It's very frustrating. Greatly appreciate any help! ❤️(Just in case it is needed, I have Windows 11 and the PC is around 4-5 months old now).
  6. Apologies in advance if this was posted in the wrong section -- new user, first post. I joined the forum to ask for some help with my Flash Voyager USB storage card. Earlier today, I was forced into visiting two libraries in the hopes of printing out some documents, but the flash drive was unable to connect to any computer into which it was plugged; normally, the blue indicator light on the flash drive will flicker as it connects to the computer without much of a wait, but now the light flashes briefly only once and remains solid without ever fully connecting to the computer with its files accessible. The afternoon before, I was making some final preparations for the documents ahead of printing them; two of the files were PDF documents, and I had finished editing them by adding text via the Microsoft Edge web browser. I saved the changes without incident and properly ejected the device, having seen no apparent problem with the device before earlier today. One librarian connected the flash drive to several other computers without any luck; that would prompt the suggestion that the flash drive may possibly have been corrupted somehow, while another librarian at the other location seemed stumped as to the cause of the problem, suggesting that the device may have just gone "kaput" for no rhyme or reason whatsoever. Again, the last action taken with this flash drive before this malfunction was executing a Save on these two PDF files via Microsoft Edge -- one-click save, no error message, no improper ejection. If the device had indeed been corrupted somehow, that final set of actions would have been the only probable cause. Once I returned home and attempted to connect my USB stick onto the very computer which it had been last successfully connected less than 24 hours earlier, I encountered the same connectivity problems. How this drive can go from functional to unfunctional in a matter of hours is a total mystery. Depending on the computer, the symptoms of the problem are slightly different: connecting the drive will not generate any pop-up Autoplay connection message, but the "Safely Remove Hardware And Eject Media" icon may still appear. A button for the disk drive may or may not appear, or might appear after waiting several moments (it normally would appear immediately upon being connected to the computer, usually within a few seconds). What's more, it won't display as "CORSAIR" like normal, but will have a general name of "USB Drive" instead, and won't indicate the presence of files or available disk space. If an attempt to eject the drive through the taskbar icon is made, the display (instead of "CORSAIR") will read "SM324BC MEMORY BAR" as the inserted device. Depending on the computer, attempting to double-click or right-click the "USB Drive" icon will either freeze the folder, making it unresponsive, or will prompt a pop-up message asking to "please insert a disk" as though one isn't present. I wanted to be as concise as possible in explaining the last 24 hours here, so I have also included screen captures of how the flash drive has performed since getting it home earlier this evening to go along with the information included above. If anyone can possibly diagnose the problems I've described, and perhaps most importantly suggest any corrective measures to take here, please feel welcome to reply with whatever information you can offer. I'm sure this isn't a new, unfamiliar problem to the forum over the years, so please feel free to share any advice that could diagnose the issue, or may provide some probable fix for it. Thanks in advance for any comments or replies after this message. - SirAMaDon_790
  7. Hi I got these headphones yesterday and they worked beautifully right out of the box, but for reason today they wont connect turn on or charge. I plug the USB in and the RGB corsair symbol flashes orange, the LED light doesn't come on and can hear electronic clicking coming through the speakers. If I plug them in via 3.5 jack, they work but won't show up in iCue. Is there any advise you can give me please?
  8. my headset has begun to emit a short "beep-boop" sound randomly every couple of minutes and i have no idea what is causing it. it is not the power on/off, low battery, or microphone mute/unmute sound. i have tried powering off and back on, changing the usb slot, and googling everything but it seems like no one has cracked the nameless beep code of corsair headsets i guess. honestly why aren't they in the manual or accessible somewhere?? anyways let me know if anyone knows what this sound means because it's driving me crazy other things to get out of the way: i am sitting right at my laptop so it isn't anything to do with range, this has happened before to me but it is unknown what made it stop because it sort of just did it on its own or a power cycle fixed it, and my headset is i want to say around 4-5 years old now. not sure what else to add but i'll try to respond quickly bc i wanna get this fixed now that it's literally not stopping as far as i can tell using it right now and i wasn't exactly planning on getting a new one any time soon
  9. Hey! I recently updated my mouse, but since that time I can no longer use it with the dongle. It only works with the bluetooth now. I tried to force a dongle update ( now on v.5.4.99), but it didn't change anything. I also did a mouse reset ( several time) , but still nothing. On the ICUE side, I uninstalled and reinstalled it (now on v. 4.17.244), but when I connect my mouse with a wire, it no longer appears in ICUE. So, I can't force a mouse update. Can you help me ? HArpoon RBG wireless: S/N:081120281154
  10. So appearently, I saw that my headset turned to static light blue. Re-attaching the dongle works but is temporary. The light probably lasted on the effect I wanted for like 5 minutes, not more. I can't really determine the problem, help will be pretty useful, have a nice day. (This does not effect the sound quality or something about audio at all.)
  11. I just installed a Corsair Waterblock on my 3080Ti Fe and the temp is now locked to 65C where it was running at 80+C when on its stock cooler. This is in addition to the core clocks decreasing as soon as I enter into a game going from 1950MHz to less than 900MHz. Precision is not locking the temp to 65 and all the settings are the same. Is there anyone who has an idea why the card is not behaving properly? I have found that the card is thermal throttling even though the core is at 68C Hwinfo is reporting the highest temp on the card overall is 104C thus the throttling. I assume it is due to lack of cooling on VRMS but am unsure, any ideas other ideas or ways I could confirm my thoughts?
  12. Hi, so i have a problem with my Corsair LL120 fans, which were bought in a 3 pack with node pro controller. My pc has 2 years and until now i hadn't had any problems with it. Few days ago one of my fans stopped showing rgb's. I was really confused and tried to swap cables on rgb hub to see if this is a hub problem, but then something strange happened. I swaped some of the cables and for now only one fan is fully showing animation, but other 2 are just working without rgb. I have them connected in first, second and third port on the hub and hub is connected to node pro. In Icue i have everything setted exactly how it should be. I should mention that my node pro and rgb hub are both connected to the same sata power cable chain. And another thing, sometimes, when i just turn on the computer all 3 fans work perfectly fine, but the next day they can shut themselves down (i mean rgb of course). Please someone help me with this problem because i can't handle it by myself.
  13. Hello. First of all I'm sorry for my english I'm not that good. I bought a new void elite and it was working until this morning. I played a game and turned off my computer but when ı oppend my computer ı couldn't opend my headset and when I tried to charge it there wasn't any light on charcing port light and my computer didn't saw my headset connected. I'm sure it has battery because It was almost full in the morning. It looks like dead no voice no light no any thing that ı can see. Please help me should I return it but I don't want to do because I want to use this headset.
  14. My newly installed H100i Elite Capellix buzzing on and off when I play something like Runescape. Is this normal behaviour, I also stress-tessed my CPU to ramp up the temp, but no sound was made during the test? What could be the problem here, I already tilted my pc and the AIO itself. AIO is top-mounted. Link to sound: https://streamable.com/sdwsmi edit: No very audible sound when idling, besides the pump noise
  15. So I have a weird issue that happened while I was switching my build from a Fractal Design Mini C to a Lian Li O11D Mini. My XD3 pump/res was working fine a few hours ago when I turned off the computer to take it apart. I took everything out of the old case and rebuilt my loop in the new case, and now the pump wont start up again. It gets power, as it makes a very low and faint vibrating noise, but it doesn't spin up. I have tried to have it plugged into both the new and old power supply, both with pwm plugged into the commander pro and not. I read some previous threads on this forum and tried tilting the case and even shaking the pump (soft tubing so I could unscrew the pump without disconnecting the loop). The only thing I added to the loop was more radiator, I went from 2x240 to 2x360 + 1x240. Have I simply reached the limit of what pressure the pump is able to supply? Here is a video of the sound the pump makes when powered with only molex connected, pwm was disconnected (you might have to turn up your volume to hear the vibrating sound): [ame] [/ame] I bought this pump directly from the corsair EU store, so I don't think it will be a problem to return it if I have to, but it seems weird that the pump suddenly stops working like this. I thought I'd try my luck on the forums and see if someone might have a solution :)
  16. I've just recently built a new PC, and I'm trying to make it more quiet by making custom fan curves in iCUE. The issue I'm having is, no matter what I do, the fans are spinning way faster than they should be (about what they should be doing at 70 degrees when the CPU is idling at 32). Are there any common things that I may be doing wrong? Does anyone know of a good fix? I've tried changing the sensor, but it isn't really working.
  17. Hi guys, I am using a K70 RGB Mk II and a Harpoon RGB Pro as my mouse. Everything was working really nicely, no issues at all, then last night while I was playing Cyberpunk, my keyboard froze. It wouldn't accept inputs. I restarted my system by pressing the button on the tower. When I then tried to switch profiles through the button on my keyboard (I don't have them synced to programs or anything), two profiles with coloured patterns (one has rainbow wave and the other has colour shift) will change. However, when I try to switch to my default one, which is just the solid colour white (I use this for doing uni work, etc) it does not switch. It just freezes the colour it was doing before. Additionally, the WinLock button does not change colour. This happens on both my colour shift and solid white profiles. It produces the input - the computer will obey the WinLock command, but it will not change colour at all. I have found that if I switch to my solid white profile, then change the brightness, it will flick back to the profile I want. But I have to fiddle with it every time to have it recognise it. So far, I have restarted my system, updated my iCue software to the latest available version and deleted and manually recreated my iCue profiles. None of these efforts have had any effect. Prior to now, I have not had any issues at all with iCue software. It has worked perfectly. That is why I am confuised about this. My mouse is changing profiles (I have it set to lighting link) correctly. There are no issues with it. It also did not freeze originally, while I was playing Cyberpunk. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks :)
  18. so i’ve looked through all the forums posts and people have similar issues but all of them have something to do with the iCUE software, mine however dont turn on at all, they worked at first when i put together my case but when i trouble shooter some other case fans when i powered the pc on the LL140 lights just don’t turn on(the other case fans aren’t connected to the corsair ones at all)
  19. Hello. I have four 120mm Corsair QL fans in the front of my case. The RGB connectors are plugged into a Lighting Node Core. The fan connectors are plugged into a Commander Pro. The USB connector of that Lighting Node Core is plugged into the Commander Pro. I also have an H150i Elite Capellix. The fan and RGB connectors of the Capellix are plugged into a Commander Core. The USB connector of the Commander Core is plugged into the Commander Pro. The USB connector of the Commander Pro is plugged into a header on my motherboard. Unfortunately, when iCue runs, the lighting effects of at least one of the fans is glitched out when in Rainbow Wave mode or the inverse static color when set to a static color. For example, three fans are red and the other is green or three fans are green and one is blue. I tried swapping the RGB connectors many times. Currently, three fans are affected. I have an Asus motherboard and an MSI graphics card, but Asus Armoury Crate and MSI Dragon Center are currently not installed. This is a fresh install of Windows. Logitech Gaming Software is installed, but not set to start with Windows. Also, Aurora is installed. Thank you in advance. Edit: I found the issue. I plugged in the RGB connectors one by one. The RGB connector for the first fan from the top went into Connector 1, the RGB connector for the second fan from the top went into Connector 2, etc. The fourth fan from the top was causing the issue, so I swapped RGB connectors 3 and 4. Now, when I make all fans red, they're all red except for some blue in the back of the third fan from the top, which now has its RGB connector placed in Connector 4. At some point in time, I'll be replacing the third fan from the top. Edit 2: Also, the same spot on the third fan from the top glitches when using the Rainbow Wave preset.
  20. I just put together a PC with all new parts and the cooler is not being (and has never been) detected by iCUE. So far I have tried reinstalling iCUE, changing the motherboard USB header it was plugged into, plugging it into a rear I/O USB connection (which prompted a driver installation, only at that point), manually reinstalling the drivers, repairing iCUE, removing all other monitoring software, swapping back to a motherboard USB header, and restarting the computer between each of these steps. The cooler is recognized as a device in Windows since the drivers installed, I have no other RGB control software installed, and iCUE works fine with my RAM and keyboard. I've looked into a bunch of other threads but haven't found a solution, I hate to open up new threads on such a seemingly common problem- but I don't think my problem is one of the usual suspects. Hope you guys can help, thank you in advance, specs listed below. Windows 10 x64 Intel i7 10700K Gigabyte Z490 Vision G MSI Gaming RTX 2060 Super Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro DDR4-2666 Corsair H100i RGB Platinum SE Seagate FireCuda 510 SSD Intel 730 SSD Seagate Firecuda HDD Corsair RM850x iBUYPOWER Snowblind - S Corsair K75 RGB Logitech G600
  21. Hello everyone, I recently purchased a Corsair Vengence 5182(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y16KZHM/) & have had nothing but wifi problems since day 1 wondering if anyone has any guidance or if I should ship it back?(not very satisfied with support for a $2k PC). Support suggested reset the CMOS(they were kind enough to send me the incorrect troubleshooting instructions - for the Corsair One) & reset windows - Here's the thing - I'm not reseting Windows - this PC came new, if it needs a windows reset right out of the box I'll return it and get another brand that doesn't & I'm not taking the PC apart to reset the CMOS - again, I'll return it, I didn't pay for a prebuild to play PC-take-aparter simulation. Eventually I fixed the WiFi by setting the driver to only connect to my 5Ghz channel. Things were working okay(still slow, my other devices see ~200Mbps) for a day until I got a second monitor Asus 245 - as soon as I plug the monitor into the PC my wifi speeds drop to 0(or if I'm lucky 1Mbps) as soon as I unplug it the PC goes right back up to 60Mbps(still slow but playable) - I'm skeptical anything is wrong with the monitor or the cables I'm using - plugging the same cables into my mac & another PC the WiFi works at normal speeds. I've done the normal stuff I think(restart, cold start, unplug after starting, unplugging before starting, make sure all drivers are up to date, switch around the refresh rate to see if that helps, tried a few different cables) & still nada. Any advice? Thanks in advance
  22. I just got this headphone and the scroll wheel took my about 20 turns to get my pc to max. Is this normal? edit: it's also kinda tough
  23. I recently bought a 220T case that came with 3 SP120s and bought 1 more to go in the back of the case. This case came with a Lighting Node Core preinstalled with the fans already hooked up to ports 1-3. I bought a Commander Pro as well and have the 3 factory fans plugged into 1-3 on both the Commander Pro and Node, and they all work fine. However, the additional fan (pin 4 in both the pro and node) that I bought will spin, but not light up. I initially thought the fan's LEDs were the problem, but I am now having the same issue with another fan. My Node in iCUE is set to SP RGB PRO Series Fans, 4 Fans. I've gone through the Support pages but could not find anything to help. I've been messing with this for about two weeks and any help would be much appreciated.
  24. I purchased a Harpoon Wireless through Amazon and I received the first one a couple of weeks ago. When I tried plugging it in my PC did not recognize the Splistream USB Dongle. It literally didn't take any action or make any noise when plugging into the machine. I tried all of the USB ports on my machine. However it worked Wired, and via bluetooth. I forced updated the mouse, I tried resetting, however the initial pair option was blocked out and not clickable in iCUE, so I chalked it up to defective product. And I got an replacement through Amazon. Sadly I am experiencing the same issues with the replacement. My PC is not recognizing the Slipstream USB dongle. It still works wired and Bluetooth. I have also already submitted a support ticket for this issue, figured I would reach out here to see if the community has any pointers. Thanks.
  25. After about one cycle of prime95, chip skyrockets its temp. In genersl the h80i pump never seems to increase its temp alomg woth the cpu, only ranging from about 28degrees to 30, while the cpu goes from 30- 100. I feel vibrations through the tubing, and the top seems mounted tightly with no wiggle room. Tried rearranging fan connectors as was listed herehttps://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/h80i-letting-the-cpu-reach-95-degrees-c-panic.2183736/, but no luck. Running a modest 4.4 OC @40 offset voltage on an i5 8600k. In general the chip ran hot though. Voltage sitting at 1.29-1.32 tops.
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