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Found 8 results

  1. Hey Guys, i have a HS70 Pro Wireless which i have really enjoyed using for the past 4.5 months. It has a little knob/wheel to adjust the audio volume on the left side. Today i woke up to notice that the wheel was not moving and it was pushed in. Then the thing just fell off and went inside the headset. Now i have no sound whatsoever and i have been browsing for ways to disassemble the headset or repair it but apparently you can only open it if you break it. Does anyone know a way to open it without breaking it or anything??? Thank you for your help
  2. So closing my right side panel the wire to the front lights that shine through the little front diffuser got caught and got cut in half now my case doesn't have any front lighting. I took the front Fascia off for cleaning (after a bit of work) and I noticed the two little red LED bulbs could be removed, replaced. So I'm wondering if Corsair could send me a replacement set that I can install myself and get that part of my case back up and running? I know those lights are just mainly for looks and only one color (red) but I'd like to restore my Graphite 780T back to original specifications. An internet search turned up nothing for a suitable replacement. Kind regards.
  3. It have been happening for quite some long time. Hoped that updates would kill this. BUT it's still a big issue. Every time i boot up my pc none of my custom made action buttons works at all, and the only thing i can do to fix this is under "app's and applications" and either uninstall and install the whole thing again, or push repair. what can i do?
  4. DISCLAIMER Disassembly of your keyboard will in fact void your Corsair warranty so proceed at your own risk with this knowledge. The only reason I decided to do this is because SPILL DAMAGE also voids your Corsair warranty!!! I do not recommend this for anyone experiencing any issues that are not tied to accidental damage and an already voided warranty!!! TL:DR, TL:DR Keyboard spill, bathed disassembled keyboard in 70% Isoprop Alcohol tub, keyboard works again. TL:DR * The italicized text in my list are steps that I took that did not contribute to repairing the keyboard, skip these! They're mostly an FYI, for the curious. * The bolded text in my list are steps that contributed to repairing the keyboard! The title says it all, my son was watching me play Mass Effect Andromeda. Mommy decided to give him, a 6 year old child, an adult cup filled to the brim with Chocolate Milk...you know the rest. Sadly, it wasn't a slight spill, the ENTIRE cup of chocolate milk spilled straight on to my 1 month old $200 K95 RGB Platinum. Well I am currently typing this with above mentioned keyboard and currently the only issues I note with it is that the "0" on the top number row and the "i" require a bit more pressure than usual to operate. I will detail below what didn't work and what did work for me! I hope this helps someone else out there! 1) After the initial spill in less that 2 seconds I unplugged my keyboard. This is key because you want to cut power IMMEDIATELY to the board. Any continued use of the keyboard while "shorting" is happening can result in permanent damage! 2) At this point, I turned my keyboard upside down and asked my wife for some help while I dried myself off. (Luckily humans do not suffer the same fate as keyboards from spilled milk :laughing:) 3)My initial goal was to get the board as dry as possible so I took all the keys off and let sit until dry. 4) After the board was dry I plugged it back in and everything was going haywire! After some online research this is due to the sugars inside of the spilled drink (chocolate milk). If the liquid had been water or something with less contaminants this may have been enough (difficult to say with certainty). 5) During my online research, I found someone that had a similar issue, they used High Percentage Isopropyl Alcohol in a spray bottle and doused the keyboard, after letting it dry they claimed this work. So I did this and let it dry on a fan over night. In the morning I grabbed the board and it had extremely sticky keys, meaning the milk inside the mx switches was still present. This would not suffice for me...since my warranty was voided I decided to go all out. 6) I completely disassembled the board down to the front plate with all of the Cherry MX switches and the PCB. (see below for some pointers for disassembly) I think I would of been able to pop the PCB off the switches but I was scared to damage the board so I left them connected together. 7) I grabbed the box the keyboard was shipped to me in and lined it with a trash bag using tape to hold it down. Then I placed the PCB/MX switch plate inside and poured the entire 16fl oz of 70% Isopropyl Alcohol inside and "bathed" the board. I did not scrub it with anything other than friction by "swooshing" all the liquid around like a washing machine. 8) After about 10 minutes of this I took the PCB/MX switch plate out, shook it, placed it on an old shirt face down and pointed a fan at it. I stood it up in different positions and angles throughout the drying time so the fan can hit as much of it as possible. 9) After only about 4 hours of drying I plugged it in and to my surprise it worked! (This is because alcohol dries a lot faster than water) The best part is even the RGB background lighting works which was my biggest worry! Dissassembly Pointers -There is a hidden screw on the top right of your board, this prevents the full removal of the back plate. It is under the cap to the right of the volume cylinder, be gentle I broke mine taking it off but had a spare from an old K95 version. -There aren't that many types of screws so it is very difficult to mix them up. -There is two small PCBs on top of the keyboard, one for your macros/profiles and one for the multimedia buttons, I fully removed both of these. I didn't take any pictures but if enough people ask I can do this entire process on my old K95 which also had spill damage. I can take pictures throughout the disassembly/cleaning process. /thread
  5. Hello all! So here is my dilemma. I have purchased an M65 Pro mouse from a local store titled: "Gimme-A-$5". Basically, it is just RMA'd products and returns from companies, which are then sold for a discount. So knowing this, I went ahead and purchased a mouse I found there because it was too good to pass up. However, the mouse does have issues, which I was afraid would be the case. When plugged in, the mouse simply does nothing. It does not register with the pc, light up, or work in any apparent way. I am a private electronics repairman, so I have went in trying to find out what the issue is (I thought maybe a loose plug or disconnected wire), but everything checks out. When plugged in, I even checked the wires to verify they were getting power, and from what I could tell with a precision multimeter, everything was powered fine and that power was being dispersed throughout all of the plugs and such. Still no working mouse though. My question is: Does anyone know about repairing these or what might be causing this issue? The most I can do to repair is re-wiring and minor soldering, but no tools/experience with micro-soldering on things like the motherboard. Please help me out here! I know it is a bit cheap of me to want to fix it instead of getting a new one, but I am a new college graduate who is about to buy a new vehicle, so money is pretty tight right now. Any help is appreciated!
  6. Hi folks, New here, mostly just so I can ask the big question: can this USB drive be fixed. (feel free to redirect my thread if I selected the wrong sub!) It's one of these bad boys: http://images.highspeedbackbone.net/skuimages/large/C13-2536-mainb.jpg ********** I'll start by saying it's really old (uh, 2006? ish?) and I don't even know if I left anything on it. If I did, it's fairly important (d'oh!), but I guess that's what I get for using an ancient thumb drive for backup! ********** Upon plugging into my computer, I'm asked to format the drive before it can be used. This thumb drive is not a stranger to this PC, and it was last used on this PC, although that was maybe 2014. If yall think it's a lost cause, I understand. Doesn't hurt to reach out to those with the know how though.
  7. I've had problems with the hotswap board in my 800D for years. I had fixed it with a zip-tie and gaffer tape, but now it's not staying connected no matter what I do. I know these boards aren't being made, but the only problem with it is the SATA connector on the board. I believe that I have the skills to desolder it and re-attach a new one, but I don't know what part to buy to attach. I was hoping someone else here has the knowledge of what replacement part would be compatible with the board. To be 100% clear, I've attached a photo showing the part that I want. Thanks in advance for any advice,
  8. Is there any way to send the K95 Platinum to repair, i mean change one of switches?
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