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Found 7 results

  1. Hello, I was hoping if you guys could help me with something. My PC just suddenly died out of nowhere and I haven't been able to turn it back on again. I've tried reseating the RAM, taking off the video card, but to no avail. I might reseat the CPU soon but for the time being, I suspect it's the PSU that failed/died. Corsair FAQ page suggest to do the paper clip test however, they do state that some PSUs where the fans will not turn on unless necessary (like my HX750i) will only spin for a while during this clip test. I've tried but as far as I can tell, the fan doesn't seem to be spinning even slightly. This PSU however does have a fan self test button which only requires the AC power and when I press the button, I can definitely see the fan spinning if only for a second. I don't know if this test is enough to indicate that the PSU is well and good though. I'll RMA it if I'm completely sure that it's a dead PSU but do you guys have any thoughts/inputs you can share? Thanks.
  2. I tried reinstalling icue 5,10 times i ddnt work. iam getting this issue since late 2018. i did contact it from corsair support ticket, they couldnt help me. ICUE version 3.11.114 i can Only see it in HWMonitor [and older version Clink app(its ******)]
  3. Hello, I am looking for some support with an issue i have with my new PC build. i will try and keep this short. i have been planning and saving for this PC build for some time. I finally made the order and had everything delivered. i wont list all the parts but the motherboard is a Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master. i built it on the desk first using the cables provided from Corsair. No issues, the PC powered on. i Then put it all in the case and swapped the cables for Sleeved cables from CableMod (Pro ModMesh C-Series KIt)(Axi/Hxi/RM) There was an audible click from the PSU when i powered on for the first time. the RGB ram lit up but the PC wouldn't power on. I put it down to a faulty PSU and ordered another. Same issue, ram lights up but no power. Neither of these PSU's will power up another machine either now. Could the cables from CableMod really of broken 2 PSU's? is there anything i should be trying? The PSU fan spins using the paperclip method. sorry for the long post. any help would be greatly appreciated
  4. Hey Forum, ich melde mich bei euch in der Hoffnung das ich von euch mal eine genauere Antwort bekomme als vom Support. Ich möchte alle Kabel die beim HX1200i dabei sind nachkaufen http://www.corsair.com/de-de/hxi-series-hx1200i-high-performance-atx-power-supply-1200-watt-80-plus-platinum-certified-psu-eu Nr: CP-9020070-EU Auf der Corsair-Seite wird mir hierfür http://www.corsair.com/de-de/professional-individually-sleeved-dc-cable-kit-type-3-generation-2-blue und http://www.corsair.com/de-de/individually-sleeved-ax-i-1200i-860i-760i-atx-24pin-generation-2-blue angeboten. Da in den FAQ steht, ich soll mich an den Support wenden um sicher zu sein welche Kabel ich kaufen soll, tat ich dies. Der Support-Mitarbeiter sagte mir: ich soll http://www.corsair.com/en-us/premium-individually-sleeved-psu-cable-kit-pro-package-type-4-generation-3-black kaufen da dies mit meinem o.g. Netzteil funktioniert. Auf Nachfragen wieso mein Netzteil nicht beim o. g. Link unter Kompatibilität aufgelistet ist bzw. ob mein Netzteil ein Typ4 Netzteil ist wurde mir gesagt das war ein Fehler. Mein Netzteil ist ein Typ3 Netzteil und kein Typ4 und wird nur mit Typ3 gehen und postet jedoch den Link von Typ4. Auf Nachfragen, ob es ein Fehler war mit dem Typ4-Link meinte er: nein das geht mit dem Typ4, aber mein Netzteil wird nicht mit Typ3 funktionieren. 1. Könnt ihr mir bitte sagen was jetzt zu meinem Netzteil passt? (Die richtigen Originalkabel) 2. Wurde es auch mit Typ4 gehen oder ist wirklich Typ3 das einzig Wahre. :(::(::(: Vielen Dank Pedi
  5. It’s been a half a year since we took an Obsidian Series 250D enclosure and installed a custom liquid cooling loop into it just to prove we could. Today we’re going to do something a little more straightforward with one of the most flexible cases in our lineup: the mainstream juggernaut Obsidian Series 750D. The 750D has been an extremely popular and solid seller for us, and it’s not hard to see why. This chassis design (and to an extent its flashier derivative, the Graphite Series 760T) is a history of Corsair cases placed in a crucible, the excess burned away and only the essentials remaining. It’s large, but feature rich, maximizing its space and giving the end user tremendous flexibility. This will be a series of articles on a build I’ve dubbed “Yamamura” after the villainess of the Japanese “Ring” films, whose father is inferred to be a water demon. Today we’re going to start with the parts list. Note that this is tentative; at some point parts may be swapped in or out depending on circumstances. Chassis: Obsidian Series 750D This build’s reason for being, the 750D boasts tremendous capacity for water cooling, rivaled only by the larger Graphite 780T and Obsidian 900D cases. Combining a clean design with solid airflow, room for multiple radiators, mounting points for a pump/reservoir combo, and general ease of assembly, the 750D is really the ideal mainstream case for liquid cooling enthusiasts who don’t want to go all out with a juggernaut like the 900D. Processor: Intel Core i7-4790K It’s reasonable to suggest an Intel Core i7-5960X might be a more exciting option, but the i7-4790K is a vastly more efficient processor, even when substantially overclocked. Part of the reason we’re going with so much radiator capacity (listed later) is to be able to run the fans at low speeds; a chip like the i7-5960X that dumps an extra ~150W of heat into the loop when overclocked takes a substantial bite out of that thermal efficiency. Intel’s i7-4790K is a stellar processor in its own right, and our samples hit 4.7GHz on Intel’s highest performing CPU architecture. Motherboard: ASUS Z97-WS I’ve been using this board in my Haswell and Devil’s Canyon testbed and it’s been an absolute pleasure. The Z97-WS is feature complete for this generation, sporting SATA Express, M.2, a PLX switch for dual PCIe x16 SLI and CrossFire, multiple USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 headers, and even FireWire capability. There are also extra power leads for the CPU socket and the PCI Express slots. Short of an ROG board, the Z97-WS is basically as good as Z97 gets. Memory: 32GB (4x8GB) Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR3 2400MHz CAS 10 It’s tempting to go for higher speed memory, but we’ve found internally that 32GB of DDR3-2400 is really the sweetest spot for Haswell and Devil’s Canyon. This is fast memory and a lot of it, and it ensures that you’ll never be bottlenecked by your memory subsystem. This kit is hands down my favorite for Haswell and Devil’s Canyon: high speed, high capacity, low latency, peak performance. Memory Cooling: Corsair Dominator Airflow Platinum While the benefits of having active cooling over high speed memory can certainly be debated, the Dominator Airflow Platinum cooler serves double duty both as cooling and as a classy bit of bling that can be added to the build. Rather than be limited to the two light bar kit colors, the Dominator Airflow Platinum has two RGB LED fans in it that can be controlled and configured via Corsair Link. Graphics Cards: Dual NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 4GB GDDR5 Essentially the fastest single-GPU card on the planet, the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 also holds the distinction of being one of the most overclockable as well. We’ve seen the GTX 980 exceed a boost clock of 1.5GHz on stock air cooling with only a minor poke to voltage; with two of these under water and modified vBIOSes to remove the TDP cap, we may be able to push these cards to new heights of performance. Storage: 4x Corsair Neutron Series GTX 480GB SSD in RAID 0 Previous testing has indicated that four Neutron GTX SSDs are enough to saturate Z97’s SATA bus, offering peak throughput of a staggering 1.6GB/sec. While striped RAID has its own drawbacks (if one drive fails all of the data is lost), judicious backups and good computing habits can leave you free to enjoy a tremendous amount of solid state capacity and performance. Power Supply: Corsair HXi Series HX1000i 1000W 80 Plus Platinum This selection could’ve gone either way, between the HX1000i and the AX1200i, but in the end I opted for the slightly shorter, slightly less featured, but still exceptional new HX1000i. The HX1000i gives us an extra 20mm to avoid clearance difficulties with the bottom-mounted radiator while still offering Corsair Link monitoring and control. Better yet, the blue logo ID matches the blue theme of the rest of the build (as you’ll see later.) Corsair Link: Commander Mini Unit The Corsair Link Commander Mini is borderline purpose built for liquid cooling. The multitude of fans we’re planning on using for this build may necessitate a second unit, but the Commander Mini itself is useful for controlling a substantial number of fans on its own through the use of Y-cables, and we can use it to control the LED fans on the Dominator Airflow Platinum. Finally, the HX1000i can be connected directly to the Commander Mini instead of burning a USB port on the motherboard on its own. Fans: One Air Series SP140 LED Blue Static Pressure Fan, 14x Air Series SP120 LED Blue Static Pressure Fans The goal is to achieve push-pull with all three radiators; research suggests it should be possible, but overall radiator clearances may prevent it. Nonetheless, our blue SP LED fans are among our most efficient fans available, and incorporating push-pull on the radiators substantially reduces the speed we have to run them at. CPU Waterblock: EK Supremacy EVO Blue Edition Sticking with our blue theme, we’ve selected arguably the most efficient CPU waterblock currently available. Internal testing has proven heat transfer isn’t the same issue on Devil’s Canyon that it was on conventional Haswell, opening up the possibility of using a high performance waterblock to extract the maximum amount of performance the silicon offers. GPU Waterblock: XSPC Razor GTX 980 Chosen for its illumination support, XSPC’s full cover waterblock for the GeForce GTX 980 has a clean aesthetic that meshes beautifully with the Obsidian 750D. It’s thin, attractive, and cools all of the surface components of the GTX 980, ensuring long life and quiet operation. Note that we opted not to purchase the backplate that XSPC offers; the GTX 980 stock cooler already includes an excellent backplate of its own, mitigating the need for an aftermarket one. Pump and Reservoir: XSPC D5 Photon 170 Like so many of XSPC’s kits, the Photon 170 reservoir includes lighting, keeping it in theme with the rest of the build. However, the integration of a mounting backplate and D5 Vario pump makes it easy to get exactly the placement and performance we want and need to drive our loop. Radiators: Swiftech Quiet Power 360mm and 2x Quiet Power 240mm Radiator selection is a matter of preference; I’ve traditionally been pretty happy with Swiftech’s radiators. Note that these are standard-thickness (25-30mm) radiators. Given the choice between an extra-thick 280mm front radiator or two standard 240mm radiators, I opted for the increased airflow that spreading out the surface area provides. This is a matter of preference, though, but a cumulative 840mm x 25mm of radiator capacity should be more than adequate for getting the job done. Stay tuned for part two, when we begin assembly of the Yamamura…
  6. Just a couple of days ago, I talked about the drawbacks of having a beastly dual-GPU system featuring a custom liquid cooling loop as well as my solution to the problem in the form of my new Carbide Series Air 240 build that I dubbed “Blues.” I believe largely in balance, not overkill, though there is something to be said for the joy of assembling by hand a massively powerful machine. Knowing that my performance target wasn’t 4K but 1080p (and occasionally 3x1080p) suggested that my existing system wasn’t worth the 600W of power it consumed under gaming load, not to mention the corresponding 600W of heat it has to dissipate into a room that enjoys Californian Indian summers. Using some of our newest hardware, I opted to build a machine that would run as quiet (if not quieter) than my existing system while retaining the required amount of performance – but with superior performance per watt. These are the specifications of the two systems, compared. My old system was named “Ted” and it’s been with me for a while in an almost comical number of permutations. TED BLUES CPU Intel Core i7-4790K @ 4.7 GHz, 1.31V Intel Core i7-4790K @ 4 GHz, 0.975V Memory Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB DDR3-2400 10-12-12-32 1.65V Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB DDR3-2400 10-12-12-32 1.65V Motherboard ASUS Maximus VI Formula (Z87) ASUS Z97I-PLUS (Z97) Graphics 2x EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB (980 MHz Core, 6 GHz GDDR5) AMD Radeon R9 290X 4GB (1 GHz Core, 5 GHz GDDR5) CPU Cooling Custom Loop Corsair Hydro Series H75 w/ SP120 LED Fan GPU Cooling Custom Loop Corsair Hydro Series HG10-A1 Corsair Hydro Series H105 w/ 2x SP120 LED Fan PSU Corsair AX860i Corsair HX750i Storage 4x Corsair Neutron GTX 480GB in RAID 0 3x Corsair Force LX 512GB in RAID 0 Enclosure Corsair Carbide Air 540 Corsair Carbide Air 240 You can see I didn’t make a lot of brutally unkind cuts. I maintain that 2400MHz is the sweet spot for memory on Haswell and Devil’s Canyon, so that was worth the modest increase in power consumption. The AMD Radeon R9 290X is by no means frugal with power, but it is an incredibly fast card; had the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 been available when this build was assembled, that would’ve been the more sensible choice. While Blues is obviously inferior in performance to Ted, nobody would really be “slumming it” by making the transition. So what do we save in power, and what do we sacrifice in performance? Note that these games were all tested at or near their highest settings; Metro: Last Light Redux was maxed out with SSAA but with Advanced PhysX disabled, while Tomb Raider was only run with 2xSSAA and TressFX enabled. What we see is that in our synthetic video encoding benchmark, for our ~15% reduction in CPU clock speed we lose ~13% of the performance. That’s not too bad. Games run the gamut; BioShock Infinite’s minimum frame rate doesn’t change drastically, and the average stays well above 60 fps. Tomb Raider’s minimum does drop below 60 fps, but the average is above, and the single R9 290X doesn’t suffer from the rendering artifacts with TressFX that the SLI’ed 780s do. Metro: Last Light Redux is the most unpleasant hit, but still stays well above 30 fps. Finally, F1 2013 doesn’t seem to have SLI functioning correctly, but it’s irrelevant: either system maintains over 60 fps. We can use the Corsair Link connectivity of our AX860i and HX750i power supplies to see how much power each of these systems is drawing, and that’s where the difference really lies. While Blues peaks at about 365W under its most taxing load, Ted is gunning all the way up to nearly 600W. Particularly alarming is the near doubling of power consumption under the x264 benchmark for an extremely modest increase in performance. This is the truth of overclocking: at a certain point, substantial amounts of power become necessary to hit higher and higher speed bins. Almost entirely across the board, though, Ted is drawing substantially more power than Blues does, and arguably a lot of that is wasted performance. Mapping performance per watt puts it all into a different perspective. Since all of our benchmarks are measured in frames per second, we can divide those results by the peak power drawn during the benchmark to come up with a rough idea of how efficiently each system is running. This isn’t the grand slam that the absolute power consumption is; performance per watt stays mostly level in every game but the odd duck F1 2013. CPU efficiency is vastly improved, though. The measure for success here is overall power consumption while maintaining acceptable performance levels, and on that front, Blues, is a victory. I’ll be mothballing Ted for a while and spending more time with Blues to see if the reduced performance is really worth writing about, but for now, this has been a fun exercise in seeing how we can make our systems more efficient. We have overclocking competitions and records, but I’d love to see users trying to hit performance targets while reducing power consumption as much as possible.
  7. The new Corsair Link Commander Mini is a tremendous evolution over the first generation Commander, giving you full voltage control over up to six fans, support for one RGB LED lighting chain, and connectors for up to four thermistors…and that’s before you even get into the Corsair Link ecosystem. A single small box connected to an internal USB 2.0 header and powered by a single SATA power lead. /corsairmedia/sys_master/productcontent/blog_cl_commander_mini-Content-1.jpg Corsair Link has had a slow but steady progression since its initial rollout. The software, the Corsair Link Dashboard, is your interface with Corsair Link-enabled hardware, and it allows for a level of precision in Windows that you just can’t get with conventional motherboard fan control. /corsairmedia/sys_master/productcontent/blog_cl_commander_mini-Content-2.jpg For starters, the new Commander Mini features fan voltage control in the hardware. While PWM fans are typically preferable, with the Commander Mini, you can now easily control any three-pin fans you plug into the unit. If you need additional fans, our Cooling Node can be connected to the Commander Mini to handle five more, but is PWM only. Hydro Series H80i and H100i coolers with fans connected to their headers are also fully controllable by Corsair Link. /corsairmedia/sys_master/productcontent/blog_cl_commander_mini-Content-3.jpg Any Corsair product that features RGB LEDs can also be controlled in the Corsair Link Dashboard, and that includes RGB LED strips plugged directly into the Commander Mini or expanded upon with the Corsair Link Lighting Node. You can set them to change color depending on individual system temperatures, or just have them pulse between two colors. The LEDs in the cap of your H100i can gradually change from blue to red as your CPU heats up, or you can have LED strips in the case brighten or darken as your graphics card heats up. /corsairmedia/sys_master/productcontent/blog_cl_commander_mini-Content-4.jpg HXi and AXi series power supplies can also have their loads monitored and Over Current Protection toggled from within Corsair Link, either by connecting to the Commander Mini or plugging directly into a USB 2.0 header on your motherboard. This is really the tip of the iceberg. Corsair Link has been admittedly rocky in the early going, but the Commander Mini is a substantial hardware revision designed to improve functionality and reliability. Meanwhile, the Corsair Link Dashboard itself continues to see great strides and a renewed focus on development, and there are big plans for the future of the Corsair Link ecosystem.
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