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Found 13 results

  1. Bonjour, j'ai vu un thread avec un problème similaire mais il date d'il y a cinq ans, alors je me permets d'en créer un nouveau. Je viens de me monter un pc et j'ai opté pour le h75 hydro series comme système de refroidissement du processeur. Le problème est que lorsque je lance un gros jeu (Assassin's Creed Odyssey), les ventilateurs, par ailleurs très silencieux en idle, se mettent à faire pas mal de bruit. J'ai noté aussi qu'après 30 minutes de jeu avec tout les paramètres graphiques à fond (toujours sur ACO), mon processeur atteint les 80-85° (je n'ai pas essayé de jouer plus longtemps pour le moment, j'ai eu peur que ça monte encore plus). Les ventilateurs ne ralentissent pas du tout une fois quitté le jeu. Le seul moyen pour les calmer et de redémarrer l'ordinateur. Je pense avoir mis suffisamment de pâte thermique et avoir monté le système correctement. Le câble 4 PIN est montée sur une fiche 4 broches et le 3 PIN aussi (je n'ai pas trouvé de fiche 3 broches). Auparavant il faisait du bruit tout le temps mais je suis passé dans le bios pour configurer les ventilateurs et ça a réglé le problème. Actuellement, ils tournent à 15% en dessous de 55°. J'hésite à modifier encore ces paramètres car je ne voudrais pas endommager mon processeur en limitant trop la ventilation. Merci d'avance pour votre aide
  2. Good morning from Greece I need to find the Lot number for my Corsair H75 for an open tech support ticket. My issue is that since the cooler was bought about 2 or 3 years ago there is a good to honest chance its box has long since been discarded (I buy a lot of parts for both work and family so I occasionally have to throw out the oldest boxes). Can I find the Lot number from the stickers/numbers on the cooler itself? I have already sent over a photo of the Barcode and the numbers below it which I assume is the serial number, but I can't find a second sticker as someone suggested for a different Corsair H model (H110i I think). Thank you for your time in advance. http://i68.tinypic.com/debps6.jpg Edit: Corrected the photo so that it shows
  3. Hallo ihr Lieben, ich habe mir kürzlich die AiO -Wakü Corsair H75 (Model2018) gekauft und verbaut. Vorab Informationen zu meiner Hardware: Mainboard: MSI X470 Gaming Pro Prozessor: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X RAM: G.Skilll F4-3200C16D-16GVKB Memory D4 3200 16GB C16 RipV Graka: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 TI "Cerberus" Netzteil: BeQuiet Pure Power 11 500 Watt Festplatte: Samsung SSD 850 EVO (2,5" SATA) Gehäuse: Antec Eleven Hundred OS: Windows 10 64Bit Der Rechner ist bis auf das Gehäuse und die Festplatte keine drei Monate alt. Mein Problem ist nun: Die Wakü verursacht im Betrieb einen extrem nervigen hochfrequenten Ton, der nicht nur im ganzen Raum (und sogar in den Nebenräumen) unüberhörbar ist, sondern ebenso auch einen Studio-Kopfhörer durchdringt und dabei selbst vom spannensten Game ablenkt. Die Frequenz ist widerlich und extrem störend! Ich habe mir die Wakü gegen Ende Februar bei Amazon bestellt, eingebaut und mich noch am gleichen Tag nach Feststellung dieses nervigen Tones an den Support von Corsair gewandt, um zu erfahren, wie man ihn abstellen kann. Angeboten wurde mir ein Umtausch des Produktes, worauf ich auch eingegangen bin (negativ: 7,90 Euro Porto auf meine Kosten!). Ich habe etwa eine Woche später eine neue Wakü gleicher Bauart als Ersatz erhalten, diese eingebaut - und musste feststellen, dass der hochfrequente Ton auch bei diesem Gerät zu hören ist. Damit ihr mal eine Vorstellung davon bekommt, wie sich das anhört, verlinke ich auf ein Video auf Youtube, dass ich ursprünglich nur für den Support selbst angefertigt habe (es ist nicht gelistet): [ame] [/ame] Zum "Reinhören" empfehle ich Kopfhörer. Und auch wenn das Video nicht den Raumklang wiedergeben kann, (es hört sich im ganzen Raum so an und nicht nur "nah dran" und bei geöffnetem Gehäuse) sollte, glaube ich, jeder nachvollziehen können, dass dieser Ton - der ein wenig an den Innenraum eines fliegenden Flugzeugs erinnert - im Alltag auf Dauer unerträglich ist. Laut HWINFO dreht die Pumpe des Kühlkopfes mit 4700 RPM (4700 !!!). Ich weiß natürlich nicht, ob diese Daten stimmen, aber die Drehzahl erscheint mir definitiv zu hoch zu sein. Der Kühlkopf wird nicht über das Mainboard gesteuert, sondern direkt an einen 12Volt-Sata Anschluss angeschlossen und über "CPU-Fan" ausgelsen. Lediglich die Lüfter am Radiator werden per PWM reguliert. Die Kühlleistung ist eigentlich auch gut. Seit mir das Austauschgerät zugesandt wurde, reagiert der Support nicht mehr auf meine Nachfrage (vom 10.03.2019) . Und mittlerweile ist es so, dass ich mir ein Produkt der Konkurrenz gekauft und verbaut habe - denn das hochfrequente "Fiepen" war echt nicht mehr auszuhalten! Ich habe also jetzt eine mehr oder weniger nagelneue H75 hier herumliegen und bin am überlegen, ob ich die Wakü in einen meiner anderen PCs einbauen soll (wenn, eigentlich nur ungerne) oder aber erneut reklamieren bzw, zurückgeben kann. Dieses hochfrequente Fiepen/Summen scheint jedenfalls nicht in allen PCs aufzutreten, aber Rezensionen auf Amazon und im Web deuten darauf hin, dass es wohl häufiger vorkommt. Vielleicht spielt das Gehäuse und dessen Eigenfrequenz dabei eine Rolle, aber das wäre ein Problem, das Corsair zu lösen hätte. Mein Fragen sind nun: Ist die Drehzahl tatsächlich zu hoch und wie kann man das abstellen (mit dem Ziel, damit auch den hochfrequenten Ton zu eleminieren)? Kann/ Muss ich bei Corsair selbst reklamieren bzw. dort die Rückgabe veranlassn oder geht das auch bei Amazon. Ich frage, weil es sich um ein Austauschgerät handelt und Amazon evtl. somit gar nicht mehr zuständig ist. Ich habe jedenfalls definitiv kein Interesse daran, irgendjemanden zu täuschen (i.S.v. "Wakü kaputt") oder mir Vorteile zu verschaffen, aber wenn ich die H75 praktisch nur hier herumliegen habe und in den Müll werfen kann, bin ich natürlich auch nicht zufrieden. Immerhin hat mich das Teil 90,- Euro gekostet. Und wie gesagt, der Support reagiert nicht auf meine Nachfrage. Beste Grüße, Christian
  4. Hey guys, Sorry if this has been asked before but I just wanted to check the correct setup for a dual AIO solution just when it comes to plugging them into the motherboard. The h110i GT is for my CPU and it is connected to the motherboard as normal (3 pin connected to CPU_FAN pins, 2 x rad fans connected to the cables coming off h110i GT heatsink and third cable from the heatsink connected to SATA power), the H75 is for my GPU. Is it okay to connect the H75 pump to a CHA_FAN connector on the motherboard? If so what is the correct setting for this connector, just DC mode? I assume I just want this pump going max at 12v? Thanks a lot
  5. Hello, What kind of temperatures are you getting with H75 coolers running on a 7700k? I need comparison from users to see if I have a bad H75. I have a Corsair Hydro H75 cooling a i7 7700k. (Strix Z270G, Corsair 3000mhz DDR4) My idle temperatures are between 32-33c and during gaming it peaks at 77-78c, once i even had 81c. (Room temperature is 21c) I am running the CPU stock, with the turbo boost enabled up to 4.5ghz and my voltages never go over 1.21 at 4.5ghz. Am i right thinking the temps are unnecessary high for a H75? taking to consideration this is not a stock cooler. I know it will not handle big OC's well, but this is normal usage which it should be able to cool easily? I use Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste and have tried with an without washers for the loose backplate, with no difference. Also the pump runs at constant 100% and fans work like they should. I even tested with the radiator outside of the case, but this only reduced 2 degrees on idle and peak. :sigh!: Also if someone has experienced similar problems, I would be glad to hear if there has been any solutions found. Thank you! :sunglasse
  6. The Graphite Series 380T was designed to be the ultimate LAN enclosure, with a sturdy handle on the top, easy internal access, integrated fan control, and a striking ID. For better or worse, we expanded its dimensions to allow you to install a 240mm liquid cooler for the CPU. Amusingly enough, though, what I always fixated on with it was the way the white one, with red LED fans, could wind up looking like this guy’s head: Source: Mass Effect 2 wiki. The white version of the 380T has white LED fans and white LEDs for all of the lighting, but that’s fixable. What I also wanted to do was put the most comically powerful system I could inside the case. Initially I was gunning for efficiency and planning to use Intel’s Core i7-5775C CPU, but Broadwell’s limited overclockability wound up being unappealing in the face of being able to go completely insane with the ASRock X99E-ITX/ac: Source: ASRock. While the board uses an enterprise-class socket with narrower mounting points than the traditional LGA 2011-3 socket, Asetek produces a mounting kit for this narrow socket that allowed me to install an H100i GTX, giving me all the cooling performance I could need for the Intel Core i7-5960X I was planning to use. It can be tough to scale to high DDR4 speeds on Haswell-E when you’re populating all four memory channels, but when you’re running in dual channel it takes some of the load off the controller. The result is that I have two 8GB DDR4-2800 DIMMs installed, making up some of the memory bandwidth deficit stemming from the X99E-ITX/ac’s two memory channels. The other half of the performance equation is getting a powerful graphics card, and right now the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 Ti is a tough card to beat. I’ve already covered how well this card overclocks when under an HG10 and it is an absolute bear. For this build, I used a reference Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti, our prototype HG10-N980 bracket, and a Hydro Series H75 cooler with two red SP120 LED fans. The H75 is mounted to the front of the case, and the fans are controlled and powered by the 380T’s integrated fan controller. Handling storage duties are a 240GB Neutron GTX SSD as the system drive and a 960GB Neutron XT SSD as the gaming/scratch drive. If I’m going to overclock this system – and I absolutely am – I’m going to need a pretty solid power supply, and for that I turned to our recently released RM750i. This PSU necessitated ordering the PSU extension bracket, which also buys a little more breathing room internally. The extension doesn’t stick too far out of the back, either, so it’s not unsightly. Finally, to get the look I wanted I needed to replace the front fans with 120mm red LED fans as well as replace the white-lit I/O board with the red I/O board from the black version of the 380T. All in all, I don’t think it came out too bad. For reference, here’s the list of components used in this build: CPU: Intel Core i7-5960X Motherboard: ASRock X99E-ITX/ac DRAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 2x8GB DDR4-2800MHz CAS15 Graphics Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti Storage: Corsair Neutron GTX 240GB SSD and Corsair Neutron XT 960GB SSD CPU Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series H100i GTX with aftermarket Asetek bracket GPU Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series HG10-N980 with Corsair Hydro Series H75 Power Supply: Corsair RM750i 750W 80 Plus Gold Chassis: Corsair Graphite Series 380T White Accessories: 3x Corsair SP120 LED Red Fans, PSU Extension Bracket for 380T, 380T Red I/O PanelIn an upcoming blog, I’ll detail overclocking and just how much performance I was able to extract out of this system, especially in comparison to the extremely powerful (and much larger) “Yamamura” 750D build.
  7. Having been in the cooling business for a few years now, at Corsair we’ve developed a pretty healthy lineup of liquid CPU coolers. So healthy, in fact, that it may be a little bit difficult to figure out which cooler you want or even need.So how do you figure out which cooler to buy? For starters, the larger the cooler you use, the slower you can run the fans. The slower you run the fans, the quieter the cooler is. In our testing, we found that even an H80i GT can run with its fans on their minimum setting and keep a mighty Intel Core i7-5960X (at stock speeds) under 55C. So while it’s entirely possible to have “overkill,” it’s also typically pretty safe to just buy the largest cooler we offer (that’s compatible with your case) since you will, if nothing else, reap lower noise levels. Of course, what you’re cooling plays a big part in determining which cooler you’ll need. If you’re not planning on doing any serious overclocking and not using one of AMD’s 220W processors, you can actually likely get by with even an entry-level Hydro Series H55 or H60. But different chips have different thermal characteristics and produce different amounts of heat. For example, Intel’s Haswell (non-E) and Devil’s Canyon processors can hit a heat wall where they simply can’t transfer more heat into the cooler. Getting a bigger cooler can get you lower noise levels, but if your core voltage is already at 1.35V, odds are good a beefier cooler isn’t going to get you more overclocking headroom. And it shouldn’t; that heat wall shows up at roughly the highest amount of voltage you’d want to put into an Intel chip for daily use. So even though an overclocked Core i7-4790K may only dissipate about 140W of heat – essentially where Intel’s Haswell-E processors start – characteristics of the chip itself prevent it from dissipating any more heat than that, regardless of the cooler used. Haswell-E chips, on the other hand, can dissipate as much as 300W when overclocked, but because they have lower heat density and better thermal transfer characteristics than non-E chips do, they can eke more performance out of a better cooler. With all of that information in mind, I’ve produced a “decoder ring” which should give you a clear idea of the differences between all of the coolers we have available. Note that all of our coolers support all modern Intel (LGA 1150, 1155, 1156, 2011, 2011-3) and all AMD sockets after the ancient Socket A (excluding AM1). If you have an older Intel CPU (Core 2 Duo or LGA1366), please refer to the individual cooler pages for compatibility information. About Radiator Thickness The greater the thickness of the radiator, the deeper the cooler overall and the greater its performance potential. Note that a 240mm radiator with the standard 25mm thickness requires less static pressure to cool than a 120mm radiator with <50mm thickness; though the 120mm radiator may have nearly as much surface area, greater static pressure from the fans – and thus greater noise – is required to adequately cool the radiator. About Corsair Link Any cooler with Corsair Link can be connected to a USB 2.0 header on your motherboard and have fan speed programmed through our Corsair Link software. These coolers also sport RGB-backlit pump caps that can have their color changed in Corsair Link. 120mm Coolers These coolers are typically going to be the most compatible as far as cases are concerned. If your case has a rear 120mm fan mount, you should be able to use one of these. Cooler Radiator Thickness Fan(s) [attachment=41258:name] [attachment=41259:name] Hydro Series H55 25mm 120mm 3-pin No [attachment=41260:name] Hydro Series H60 25mm 120mm PWM No [attachment=41261:name] Hydro Series H75 25mm Dual 120mm PWM No [attachment=41262:name] Hydro Series H80i 38mm Dual 120mm PWM Yes [attachment=41263:name] Hydro Series H80i GT 49mm Dual 120mm PWM Yes Note that because of the H80i GT’s extra thick radiator, some motherboard layouts that place the CPU socket closer to the rear I/O cluster may create compatibility issues. You should measure a minimum of 50mm from the absolute rear of the case to the CPU socket to ensure compatibility. 140mm Coolers We only have one 140mm cooler: the oft-overlooked Hydro Series H90. The H90 comes with a single 140mm PWM fan, is 25mm thick, and does not offer Corsair Link connectivity. Compatibility is also dependent upon your case having a 140mm fan mount. That said, the H90 can also offer surprisingly exceptional cooling performance. Adding a second fan to the H90 can also generate enough air pressure to let you substantially reduce the speeds of both fans, giving you great cooling without a lot of noise. 240mm Coolers Most of our cases are compatible with our 240mm coolers, but you’ll want to measure at least 55mm of clearance to mount any of them; the H105 requires an additional 15mm of clearance. This form factor has become very popular for its balance of noise and performance, and support for it is very common on modern cases. Cooler Thickness Fan(s) [attachment=41265:name] [attachment=41266:name] Hydro Series H100i 25mm Dual 120mm PWM Yes [attachment=41267:name] Hydro Series H100i GTX 25mm Dual 120mm PWM Yes [attachment=41268:name] Hydro Series H105 37mm Dual 120mm PWM No At the time of this article’s writing, the H100i is the outgoing model and being replaced by the H100i GTX, which features a newer pump and more efficient fans. The H100i GTX will consistently outperform the older H100i. Please note that the H100i GTX has a slightly thicker radiator housing that may interfere with some motherboards in our Mini-ITX cases. If you’re unsure of compatibility, please use an H100i non-GTX. If you need more performance, the H105 sacrifices some compatibility for greater surface area and can come within striking distance of a larger 280mm cooler. 280mm Coolers While this is generally the “flagship” form factor, cases which support coolers this size are much less common. That said, these are the ones you want for absolutely the best performance Corsair offers. Cooler Thickness Fan(s) [attachment=41269:name] [attachment=41270:name] Hydro Series H110 25mm Dual 140mm PWM No [attachment=41271:name] Hydro Series H110i GT 25mm Dual 140mm PWM Yes Case Compatibility If you have a Corsair case, you can use the chart below to determine which coolers your case supports. If you have a non-Corsair case, you’ll want to check the manufacturer’s website to determine which types of liquid coolers your case supports. 120mm Coolers 140mm Coolers 240mm Coolers 280mm Coolers All Corsair Cases Carbide Series 200R Carbide Series 300R Carbide Series 400R Carbide Series 500R Carbide Series Air 540 Vengeance C70 Graphite Series 230T Graphite Series 730T Graphite Series 760T Graphite Series 780T Obsidian Series 250D Obsidian Series 350D Obsidian Series 450D Obsidian Series 550D Obsidian Series 650D Obsidian Series 750D Obsidian Series 900D Carbide Series 300R* Carbide Series 330R* Carbide Series 400R* Carbide Series 500R* Carbide Series Air 240 Carbide Series Air 540 Vengeance C70 Graphite Series 230T* Graphite Series 380T* Graphite Series 600T* Graphite Series 730T Graphite Series 760T Graphite Series 780T Obsidian Series 250D* Obsidian Series 350D Obsidian Series 450D Obsidian Series 550D* Obsidian Series 650D* Obsidian Series 700D* Obsidian Series 750D Obsidian Series 800D* Obsidian Series 900D Carbide Series 300R Carbide Series 330R Carbide Series Air 240 Carbide Series Air 540 Vengeance C70 Graphite Series 230T Graphite Series 730T Graphite Series 760T Graphite Series 780T Obsidian Series 350D Obsidian Series 450D Obsidian Series 650D Obsidian Series 750D Obsidian Series 900D *Is not compatible with Hydro Series H105.
  8. It’s been a little while since we’ve hit you with a review roundup. We’re in the calm before the storm: in just a couple short weeks, CES 2015 will be upon us, and the industry will spin up to full tilt again. But for now, we still have a doozy of a review roundup for you. The Corsair Gaming umbrella continues to gain traction with the series of high quality peripherals being released under it, while reviews still trickle in for our HXi power supplies. Corsair Gaming H1500 and H2100 We’ll start with reviews of our USB-based gaming headset, the Corsair Gaming H1500. Guru3D, eTeknix, and Benchmark Reviews all gave it a listen, and every last one came away impressed. Guru3D’s Hilbert Hagedoorn said “The Corsair Gaming H1500 shines in a nice deep and dynamic sounding bass, clear voices, and the treble that we increased a notch totally fits my personal sound flavor. These factors combined satisfy my personal audio flavor real fast.” He gave it a Recommended award. While we’re at Guru3D, Hilbert also tried out our higher end wireless Corsair Gaming H2100 headset and gave it a Top Pick award, saying “For straight up gaming, the H2100 is tough to beat, the overall clarity and nice bass make it a killer headset.” The reviewer at eTeknix shared a similar sentiment before giving it the Editor’s Choice award: “The Corsair Gaming H1500 is one of the best mid-budget gaming headsets available. It’s lightweight and comfortable to use for long gaming sessions, it has powerful and clear audio and it also has one of the best microphones I’ve tested. A solid all-round performance from Corsair.” Finally, our friends at Benchmark Reviews called it “a lot of headset for the price” and “just what the doctor ordered for the budget gamer.” The H1500 walked away with their Golden Tachometer. Corsair Gaming Mice and Keyboards While I can’t technically say our keyboards are the best in the business, they have a habit of getting some pretty high accolades, and they’re being joined by our new RGB mice. We’ll start with Slashgear, which took a pretty comprehensive look at our RGB keyboards along with our M65 RGB mouse and came away smiling, saying: “We came for the colorful madness of the RGB hook, we stayed for the highest-end precision delivered in-game. Both the keyboard collection and the mouse usher in Corsair Gaming with a bang.” Next, Erik Fredriksen at TechnoBuffalo had this to say about our K70 RGB: “The customization options presented by the software put the K70 and its bigger and smaller siblings in a class of their own. If you want to do anything beyond simply typing, not much else can compare. The possibilities Corsair’s software presents are virtually endless in the hands of a creative user.” Over at Vortez, Tony Le Bourne got his game on with the M65 RGB and found it worthy of a Gold award: “After spending some time with the Corsair Gaming M65 RGB, the performance has proved to be strong and satisfying, making a trusted weapon for all FPS enthusiasts.” Finally, the optical version of our brand new Sabre RGB gaming mouse (a hit in its own right in the office) was reviewed at both Tweak.dk and Hardware Heaven and in both cases left with an award, with Tweak.dk giving it their “Great Product” award and Hardware Heaven giving it their Recommended award. With the rash of quality Corsair Gaming hardware out of the way, we turn our attention to reviews of our HX1000i power supplies. Corsair HX1000i Power Supply The 1,000-watt, 80 Plus Platinum, Corsair Link-enabled beast that is the HX1000i was reviewed by both eTeknix and Hardwareluxx, and in both reviews, walked away an award-winner. eTeknix’s Ryan Martin specifically concluded, “With silent operation, impressive performance and a selection of digital controls and monitoring the HX1000i offers a great cheaper alternative to Corsair’s premium AXi series.” Corsair Cases We also had three of our cases – including the recently launched Carbide Series 330R Titanium Edition – go out for review. The new 330R Titanium adds an attractive new gunmetal-colored brushed aluminum finish to the door of the 330R along with built-in fan control, and Technic3D was happy enough with it to give it their Silver award. The Tech Report revisited the Air 240 and discovered something you and I already knew: “With all of its stock fan mounts populated, the Carbide Series Air 240 delivers superb cooling performance.” That superb cooling performance, coupled with the killer feature set, earned our Air 240 a “Recommended” award. Rounding out our case reviews, TechPowerUp goes hands on with our Obsidian Series 250D. They called it a “small chassis with a huge punch” and gave it a 9.5 score and an Editor’s Choice award. Finally, the best of the rest: ConseilConfig.com reviewed our popular Hydro Series H75 liquid cooler (a perfect match for the HG10 bracket if ever there were one) and gave it a score of 4.1 out of five stars. …and last but not least, the crew over at Madshrimps put the screws to our Vengeance LPX DDR4 and made it sing. They said “Tweaking potential is more than present and this kit can compete with other high end kits, which might be higher priced.” For that potential, it earned a Performance award.
  9. It’s not at all uncommon (in fact, exceedingly normal) for Corsair employees to want to tinker with our latest and greatest products just to see what we can actually do. While I was doing a single HG10-A1 build in the Carbide Series Air 240 that I was pretty proud of, one of our product engineers, Dennis Lee, was pushing things…well, a lot further. His Air 240 build borders on insane, and I’m happy to share it with you. COMPONENTS CPU Intel Core i7-3820 @ 3.9GHz Memory Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB (4x8GB) DDR3-1866 9-10-9-27 1.5V Motherboard ASUS Rampage IV Gene (X79) Graphics 2x AMD Radeon R9 290X CPU Cooling Corsair Hydro Series H75 GPU Cooling 2x Corsair Hydro Series H75 and HG10-A1 PSU Corsair AX860i Storage Corsair Neutron GTX 240GB Enclosure Corsair Carbide Air 240 Dennis’s build is…pretty wild. He used white SP120 LED fans and a red sleeved cable kit, then doubled down and swapped in LED lit pump caps from H105s onto all of the H75 coolers. The result is easily one of the craziest systems we’ve ever seen and a testament to just how much power can be crammed into a Carbide Series Air 240. In all of its glory: two liquid-cooled AMD Radeon R9 290X cards on an X79 Micro-ATX board with just about everything under water. Bird's eye view. In order to fit two H75s in the main chamber, one had to be arranged in a push-pull configuration. The H75s operate as intakes, keeping the blowers on the HG10s fed while the two top fans work as exhausts. The pair of HG10s look cramped, but were designed to allow for exactly this kind of close proximity when used with the right Hydro Series cooler. The third H75 (cooling one of the R9 290X cards) had to be mounted to the 120mm fan mount in the back chamber. Screw the H75 radiator to the side panel, close it up, and game on.
  10. Just a couple of days ago, I talked about the drawbacks of having a beastly dual-GPU system featuring a custom liquid cooling loop as well as my solution to the problem in the form of my new Carbide Series Air 240 build that I dubbed “Blues.” I believe largely in balance, not overkill, though there is something to be said for the joy of assembling by hand a massively powerful machine. Knowing that my performance target wasn’t 4K but 1080p (and occasionally 3x1080p) suggested that my existing system wasn’t worth the 600W of power it consumed under gaming load, not to mention the corresponding 600W of heat it has to dissipate into a room that enjoys Californian Indian summers. Using some of our newest hardware, I opted to build a machine that would run as quiet (if not quieter) than my existing system while retaining the required amount of performance – but with superior performance per watt. These are the specifications of the two systems, compared. My old system was named “Ted” and it’s been with me for a while in an almost comical number of permutations. TED BLUES CPU Intel Core i7-4790K @ 4.7 GHz, 1.31V Intel Core i7-4790K @ 4 GHz, 0.975V Memory Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB DDR3-2400 10-12-12-32 1.65V Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB DDR3-2400 10-12-12-32 1.65V Motherboard ASUS Maximus VI Formula (Z87) ASUS Z97I-PLUS (Z97) Graphics 2x EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB (980 MHz Core, 6 GHz GDDR5) AMD Radeon R9 290X 4GB (1 GHz Core, 5 GHz GDDR5) CPU Cooling Custom Loop Corsair Hydro Series H75 w/ SP120 LED Fan GPU Cooling Custom Loop Corsair Hydro Series HG10-A1 Corsair Hydro Series H105 w/ 2x SP120 LED Fan PSU Corsair AX860i Corsair HX750i Storage 4x Corsair Neutron GTX 480GB in RAID 0 3x Corsair Force LX 512GB in RAID 0 Enclosure Corsair Carbide Air 540 Corsair Carbide Air 240 You can see I didn’t make a lot of brutally unkind cuts. I maintain that 2400MHz is the sweet spot for memory on Haswell and Devil’s Canyon, so that was worth the modest increase in power consumption. The AMD Radeon R9 290X is by no means frugal with power, but it is an incredibly fast card; had the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 been available when this build was assembled, that would’ve been the more sensible choice. While Blues is obviously inferior in performance to Ted, nobody would really be “slumming it” by making the transition. So what do we save in power, and what do we sacrifice in performance? Note that these games were all tested at or near their highest settings; Metro: Last Light Redux was maxed out with SSAA but with Advanced PhysX disabled, while Tomb Raider was only run with 2xSSAA and TressFX enabled. What we see is that in our synthetic video encoding benchmark, for our ~15% reduction in CPU clock speed we lose ~13% of the performance. That’s not too bad. Games run the gamut; BioShock Infinite’s minimum frame rate doesn’t change drastically, and the average stays well above 60 fps. Tomb Raider’s minimum does drop below 60 fps, but the average is above, and the single R9 290X doesn’t suffer from the rendering artifacts with TressFX that the SLI’ed 780s do. Metro: Last Light Redux is the most unpleasant hit, but still stays well above 30 fps. Finally, F1 2013 doesn’t seem to have SLI functioning correctly, but it’s irrelevant: either system maintains over 60 fps. We can use the Corsair Link connectivity of our AX860i and HX750i power supplies to see how much power each of these systems is drawing, and that’s where the difference really lies. While Blues peaks at about 365W under its most taxing load, Ted is gunning all the way up to nearly 600W. Particularly alarming is the near doubling of power consumption under the x264 benchmark for an extremely modest increase in performance. This is the truth of overclocking: at a certain point, substantial amounts of power become necessary to hit higher and higher speed bins. Almost entirely across the board, though, Ted is drawing substantially more power than Blues does, and arguably a lot of that is wasted performance. Mapping performance per watt puts it all into a different perspective. Since all of our benchmarks are measured in frames per second, we can divide those results by the peak power drawn during the benchmark to come up with a rough idea of how efficiently each system is running. This isn’t the grand slam that the absolute power consumption is; performance per watt stays mostly level in every game but the odd duck F1 2013. CPU efficiency is vastly improved, though. The measure for success here is overall power consumption while maintaining acceptable performance levels, and on that front, Blues, is a victory. I’ll be mothballing Ted for a while and spending more time with Blues to see if the reduced performance is really worth writing about, but for now, this has been a fun exercise in seeing how we can make our systems more efficient. We have overclocking competitions and records, but I’d love to see users trying to hit performance targets while reducing power consumption as much as possible.
  11. Having a boss overclocked, dual-GPU, custom-liquid-cooled system is pretty fantastic. It’s quiet, fast, runs any games I throw at it…it’s hard to complain too much. From the outside (or at least outside California), there’s very little wrong with having something that beastly to play with. And indeed, it’s hard to complain. Except in the summer. Except when I need to work on it. Except… There are drawbacks. Power consumption is high, and that means the system has to dissipate a tremendous amount of heat. California is experiencing one of the hottest summers in history (to say nothing of our drought), and we’ve never had very low power bills. A system like mine is great right up until I run headlong into the drawbacks. In a bid to see if I could make my life easier, I decided to take advantage of some of our new products (one of which isn’t out just yet but will be very soon) and produce a leaner, more purpose-driven build. It still has to be quiet, it still has to deliver superior gaming performance at my home resolutions of 1920x1200 and 5760x1200, and it can’t feel like a substantial step down. At the same time, it has to draw a lot less power. Let me introduce you to Blues. In the interest of producing something smaller, easier to use, and still incredibly powerful, I opted to employ our new Carbide Series Air 240 enclosure. The Air 240 is particularly special because unlike many of our other cases, it wasn’t entirely planned. While we take tremendous care in all the products we develop, the Air 240 was something that we really wanted. Remember that the people designing Corsair products are die hard enthusiasts, honestly just a bunch of nerds that come to work every day and ask themselves what they want to see on the shelves. This case was a pet project, and it’s everything we hoped for. Call it cliché, but my favorite color combination continues to be the time tested black and blue. For me, that meant taking the black version of the Air 240 and then fitting it with a series of our new SP120 blue LED fans. But just because I opted to use efficient fans doesn’t mean I was guaranteed silence. For that, I needed to choose my components very carefully. The CPU is Intel’s Core i7-4790K based on the Devil’s Canyon version of their Haswell architecture. These chips are Intel’s top of the line, but rather than overclocking, I opted instead to lock the peak clock speed to a still speedy 4GHz, allowing me to drop the Vcore to just 0.975V. This keeps temperatures low, ensuring the SP120 LED fan on the Hydro Series H75 cooler never has to spin up. Attached to the CPU is 16GB of Dominator Platinum DDR3 running at 2400MHz CAS10 with blue Lightbar kits installed. 2400MHz is really the sweet spot for Haswell, and 16GB ensures I never run out of system memory. That hardware is all plugged into an ASUS Z97I-PLUS mini-ITX motherboard. The Z97I-PLUS has a fairly understated color scheme while being very feature rich. Of course the other part of the equation is gaming performance, and that’s where our new Hydro Series HG10 comes into play. I swapped out the noisy stock cooler of an AMD Radeon R9 290X for the HG10 and then attached our 240mm Hydro Series H105 CPU cooler to it. The result? R9 290X performance, always running at the full 1GHz on the GPU, without any of the noise. It’s quiet, and it’s fast. You can see that overall, the interior design of the Air 240 is pretty efficient. The hoses on the H75’s radiator do apply a little pressure against the memory slots, but everything does fit, and it looks surprisingly neat for a small form factor build. The remainder of the primary chamber is kept cool by three more blue SP120s, but with a total of six fans and only three fan headers on the motherboard, how on earth was I going to keep the noise down? Not pictured: cable management skills. I continued by employing an incredibly efficient HX750i power supply, a unit that has a fan that only needs to spin up under substantial stress. That HX750i, along with the six primary chamber fans, gets connected to our new Corsair Link Commander Mini. The Commander Mini’s improved hardware over the original Cooling Node allows for precise control of the six main fans, letting me run them all at their lowest speeds. Finally, you’ll see that I have a trio of 512GB Force LX SSDs handling storage duties, providing plenty of high speed storage for gaming and video editing. With this fairly robust system (in a fairly small footprint) on hand, the major test is whether or not it’s worth the reduced noise, heat, and power consumption. That’s something we’ll be looking at very soon, so stay tuned.
  12. Recently we launched the Graphite Series 230T case in three different colors; black, "Battleship Grey," and "Rebel Orange"...yes that's right ORANGE! When I heard we were going to offer a case in orange I was a little skeptical about it, but when I actually got to see the case, I have to admit, I liked it. Black cases have been very popular for a while, and while the occasional white or grey alternative added some excitement, the orange stands out like nothing else and has gotten quite a lot of positive feedback from people that I have talked to. With Halloween right around the corner and orange cases on my mind, I thought it would be fun to see if I could build a whole system with an orange theme. Starting with the Rebel Orange 230T, here was the lineup of parts I decided to use: Case: Graphite Series 230T Motherboard: Gigabyte Z87X-OC CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K CPU Cooler: Hydro Series H75 (with custom painted ring, and orange LED case fans from a scrapped 230T) PSU: RM650 SSD: Force GS 240GB (with custom painted housing) Memory: Vengeance CMZ16GX3M4X1600C9 16GB (4x 4GB) 1600C9 Graphics Card: Zotac GTX 760 Below you can see my custom spray painted Force GS and H75 center ring, along with the spray paint I used. A light coat of primer and a few light coats of orange, and everything turned out pretty good. Just make sure you let the paint dry before adding additional coats. The first step is to mount the CPU into the motherboard, and then the motherboard into the case. Unfortunately I could not locate the rear I/O shield for this beautiful orange Gigabyte motherboard, but I was not going to let that stop me from building this orange monster, so you will notice the I/O shield has been left out. After the motherboard is installed, I like to install the PSU. Next, I connected all the cables from the front I/O panel. It's much easier to do it at this stage since there is not a bunch of hardware in the way. Next, I started preparing my H75 cooler. The ring is easily removable with a flathead screwdriver, and painting the ring was so easy that anyone could do it to customize their system. It actually turned out better than I expected! For a detailed installation video for our H75, . The backplate for the H75 has adjustable metal pins, so it's easy to line it up with your CPU socket. Secure the backplate from the other side using the provided metal standoffs. Backplate and standoffs are mounted. To be honest, the fans that come with the H75 (black housing with grey fan blades) are going to deliver better performance than the orange LED case fans I scavenged from a scrapped case, but orangeness was my number one concern for this build. When setting up a Hydro Series Cooler for push / pull, I like to mount one of the fans before installing the unit inside of the case. I will be installing the cooler in the rear exhaust area and the fans will be exhausting air outside of the case. The H75 is now ready to be mounted to the rear exhaust fan mount. Make sure that your fans are both blowing air in the same direction, and then use the mounting screws to secure the 2nd fan and radiator to the case. Now, line up the holes in the mounting bracket with the standoffs we installed earlier and then secure the cooling unit with the provided thumbscrews. One more step before our cooler is fully installed, power! There is plenty of slack on the power cables for the fans and pump unit, so a trick I like to do is to use a screwdriver to coil the wire before plugging it in. Doing this will make your case look a lot neater, without having to zip tie the cable out of the way. The H75 comes with a "Y" splitter cable so that you can plug both fans into the same motherboard header. When using the included PWM fans, and plugging them into the CPU fan header on the motherboard, your fans can be controlled based on the CPU temperature. Cooler is now fully installed and looking oranger than ever! SSD installation in the 230T is super simple with the dedicated tool-free 2.5 inch drive cage. Just slide it into place! Just a few more parts to go! Next up comes the graphics card from Zotac with wonderful orange fans. Remove 2 of the PCI-E covers and then line up the pins with the PCI-E socket and firmly press the card into place until the locking mechanism on the slot locks into place. With the graphics card is installed, it's time to run the rest of our power cables. I intended to install Corsair Link and a lighting node right when I got the idea for this build, since it would allow me to light this system up like a pumpkin! The Corsair Link commander has a single internal USB connector which plugs right into a spare internal USB header on the motherboard. The Corsair Link Lighting Node can be used without the Corsair Link Commander module, but only has support for 6 different colors in that configuration, and orange is sadly not one of them. So we needed both the Corsair Link Commander and the Corsair Link Lighting Node in order to shine some orange light inside the case. With all the hardware installed you can see that the cabling is quite a mess. Both the case and the PSU come with plenty of zip ties, so after a few minutes of cable management, things were looking much better. Neat and tidy means good looks and great airflow. Time to power this thing up for the first time and make sure my orange monster is functional! A few more glamour shots! I hope you enjoyed this build as much as I did, definitely one of my favorite builds I have done in a while! After all this I have an incredible urge to eat an orange. Maybe I'll get a tan too. HAPPY HALLOWEEN! Here are a few more bonus pictures, where can you imagine the 230T?
  13. Installing the Corsair Hydro Series H75 CPU cooler can seem fairly daunting, but in this blog post we’ll have you up and running in no time flat. You’ll just need a single medium-sized Phillips head screwdriver.With the H75, we’ve made installing cooling easier than it’s ever been. You’ll want to first remove the exhaust fan from your case; the H75 uses two 120mm fans and a 120mm radiator to ensure compatibility with as many cases as possible. For the purposes of this guide, we’ll be installing the H75 as an exhaust; this results in ever so slightly higher CPU temperatures, but lower overall system temperatures. First, you’ll want to install one of the fans to the radiator itself. The interior side of the radiator is the one that has the hoses coming out of it; use the long screws to secure one of the two fans to the four mounting holes in the radiator at each of the corners with the exhaust side of the fan facing the radiator, making sure to place a washer on each screw between the head and the fan. You can tell which side of the fan is the exhaust by the four struts. Next, sandwich the second fan between the case and the side of the radiator that doesn’t have a fan mounted yet and use the long screws (with washers between the head and the case surface) to secure everything in place. You’ll want the exhaust side of the fan to be facing the rear of the case so that air flows in a straight line through the two fans. Now remove the plastic cap from the waterblock. There’s already thermal interface material on it so you don’t need to add any, but make sure that the material doesn’t touch anything but the top of the CPU, as it can be a nuisance to clean off. The next part depends on the socket you’re using. If your system uses Intel’s Socket 1150, 1155, or 1156, press the included backplate to the rear of the motherboard, pushing the four standoffs through the mounting holes in the motherboard. Next, use the four LGA1150/1155/1156 screws and install them one at a time into the standoffs, holding the backplate in place. Put the opposite ends of those screws through the four holes in the mounting ring around the waterblock, then use the thumbscrews to mount the block in place. If your system uses Intel’s Socket 2011, you don’t need to worry about using the backplate. Simply install the four LGA2011 screws into the four corner standoffs of the CPU socket, then put the opposite ends of those screws through the holes in the waterblock’s mounting ring, then use thumbscrews to mount the block in place. If your system uses any modern AMD socket (AM2, AM3, AM3+, FM1, FM2, FM2+), you’ll want to consult the included instruction manual for more detailed instructions. The last step is connecting the pump and the two fans. The 3-pin connector extending from the waterblock can be connected to any non-CPU fan header on your motherboard. For the fans, you’ll want to connect the included Y-cable to each of those fans, and then connect the opposite end to the CPU fan header on your motherboard. If you need further help, you can check out our video guide on YouTube by clicking the image above, or you can visit our support forums.
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