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Found 10 results

  1. I have a i76700k cooled by a H100i GTX (at the top of a CM Storm Stryker) Starting a few weeks back, I have notice that some days the idle temp are quite high This cause high temps going to 100C after 2 min of Aida64, with throttling around 15% Some other days, without changing anything, idle are back to 30C and I can run Aida64 for 20min with max temps around 80C So I'm wondering if I should look a thermal compound, since I'm using Corsair pre applied one since day one, in Feb 2015 Or is my H100iGTX dying ? Thx
  2. Hi I have replace the stock fan of my H100i GTX with some ML120 (the value pack Corsair CO-9050039-WW ML Series) Much better, as case doesn't go into tumbler mode anymore at full speed but not silent either. As anyone tried using Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM with the H100iGTX ? They seem very good (even come with a full frame rubber seal for watercooling heatsink), but after some digging in these forums, it seems that you cannot plug any fan into the H100i or you may toast it (ie CM JetFlo). So I thought it would be better to ask here before spending £54 and be sorry that my cooler is fried
  3. Good day, I need some advice. I recently bought a 2nd hand Core i7 4770k and now I am dialing in the overclock. Currently I have it sitting at 4.2Ghz at 1.25V on the core and the CPU is cooled by a H100i GTX with 2 ML120 fans. I did a 30min stress test using Intel Extreme Tuning Utility. The results were are follows: Test 1 (30min) CPU package temp: 83ºC Cooler liquid temp: 44.1ºC Pump speed: 1920RPM (Quiet mode) Fan speed: 1440RPM (Custom curve) Test 2 (30min) CPU package temp: 79ºC Cooler liquid temp: 42ºC Pump speed: 3150RPM (Performance mode) Fan speed: 1260RPM (Custom curve) The peak CPU package temp may only be 4ºC lower but the average temps across all cores dropped by about 8-10ºC when running the pump in performance mode. I knew there would be a difference, but I would like to know if this is in line with what other users also experienced? Note: I bought the cooler in April of 2015, so it's almost 3years old.
  4. Hi, I have a H100iGTX cooling a lightly overclocked i7 4790k (4.6 gHz, no overvolting). Recently I've been noticing temperatures are increasingly high under normal usage - I've dusted out my computer with no real effect. To contextualise 'high', if I run the Intel Extreme Tuning stress test we hit 90 degrees within 30 seconds, and intermittent thermal throttling within a couple of minutes. Coolant temperature will quickly hit about 48 degrees. I'm using some expensive aftermarket noctua fans on the heatsink instead of the Corsair ones (ones designed for static pressure), and with them set to 100% and the pump set to high performance the temperatures are as described above. Pump speed is particularly crucial - if I set the pump to performance things get a lot hotter a lot quicker. I was going to swap back to stock fans as a last resort, but I've noticed that when I stress test the temperature of the radiator is massively uneven. It's fairly cool everwhere but the part of the grille near the pipe entry points, where it's very warm to the touch. Even when the system is idling the temperature differential can still be felt. Is this indicative of some kind of blockage in the radiator? Is a support ticket in order?
  5. Good day, I am currently running a H100i GTX with 2 ML120 fans. I just bought a commander pro controller. My question is how would I connect it. Do I leave the cooler like it's currently plugged into the CPU fan header for pump and fan power and then just move the link usb cable from the motherboard USB hub to the hub on the commander pro? (IMO this is the way I should go). Or do I also plug the fans on the cooler into the fan channels on the commander pro and then leave the 3 pin plug from the cooler on the CPU fan header to keep providing power to the pump? Assistance would be much appreciated. Thank you
  6. Hi i cleaned my computer Yesterday i remove all the parts and replaced my thermal paste on my cooling , i noticed that my CPU temp is so high with 20-30LOAD upon start up . I didnt open any application or games but i got several running application on my background (refer to the photo below) . I need some help since my temp before is 45-50 after startup my room temp is 30-40 since i live on asia and my place is kinda hot . hope someone can help me . Btw One pump of my h100i gtx is warm and one is cold the rad is warm also . thankyou. http://imgur.com/a/orQkc My specs are : i7-4790k H100i GTX S340 Elite Gtx 1080 VS650 16GB of ram
  7. The Graphite Series 380T was designed to be the ultimate LAN enclosure, with a sturdy handle on the top, easy internal access, integrated fan control, and a striking ID. For better or worse, we expanded its dimensions to allow you to install a 240mm liquid cooler for the CPU. Amusingly enough, though, what I always fixated on with it was the way the white one, with red LED fans, could wind up looking like this guy’s head: Source: Mass Effect 2 wiki. The white version of the 380T has white LED fans and white LEDs for all of the lighting, but that’s fixable. What I also wanted to do was put the most comically powerful system I could inside the case. Initially I was gunning for efficiency and planning to use Intel’s Core i7-5775C CPU, but Broadwell’s limited overclockability wound up being unappealing in the face of being able to go completely insane with the ASRock X99E-ITX/ac: Source: ASRock. While the board uses an enterprise-class socket with narrower mounting points than the traditional LGA 2011-3 socket, Asetek produces a mounting kit for this narrow socket that allowed me to install an H100i GTX, giving me all the cooling performance I could need for the Intel Core i7-5960X I was planning to use. It can be tough to scale to high DDR4 speeds on Haswell-E when you’re populating all four memory channels, but when you’re running in dual channel it takes some of the load off the controller. The result is that I have two 8GB DDR4-2800 DIMMs installed, making up some of the memory bandwidth deficit stemming from the X99E-ITX/ac’s two memory channels. The other half of the performance equation is getting a powerful graphics card, and right now the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 Ti is a tough card to beat. I’ve already covered how well this card overclocks when under an HG10 and it is an absolute bear. For this build, I used a reference Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti, our prototype HG10-N980 bracket, and a Hydro Series H75 cooler with two red SP120 LED fans. The H75 is mounted to the front of the case, and the fans are controlled and powered by the 380T’s integrated fan controller. Handling storage duties are a 240GB Neutron GTX SSD as the system drive and a 960GB Neutron XT SSD as the gaming/scratch drive. If I’m going to overclock this system – and I absolutely am – I’m going to need a pretty solid power supply, and for that I turned to our recently released RM750i. This PSU necessitated ordering the PSU extension bracket, which also buys a little more breathing room internally. The extension doesn’t stick too far out of the back, either, so it’s not unsightly. Finally, to get the look I wanted I needed to replace the front fans with 120mm red LED fans as well as replace the white-lit I/O board with the red I/O board from the black version of the 380T. All in all, I don’t think it came out too bad. For reference, here’s the list of components used in this build: CPU: Intel Core i7-5960X Motherboard: ASRock X99E-ITX/ac DRAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 2x8GB DDR4-2800MHz CAS15 Graphics Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti Storage: Corsair Neutron GTX 240GB SSD and Corsair Neutron XT 960GB SSD CPU Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series H100i GTX with aftermarket Asetek bracket GPU Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series HG10-N980 with Corsair Hydro Series H75 Power Supply: Corsair RM750i 750W 80 Plus Gold Chassis: Corsair Graphite Series 380T White Accessories: 3x Corsair SP120 LED Red Fans, PSU Extension Bracket for 380T, 380T Red I/O PanelIn an upcoming blog, I’ll detail overclocking and just how much performance I was able to extract out of this system, especially in comparison to the extremely powerful (and much larger) “Yamamura” 750D build.
  8. Massive, monolithic air coolers – and even some smaller, more affordable ones – are still extremely popular in the marketplace. While system integrators have largely moved away from shipping air coolers in their high performance systems as the weight of a massive air cooler can cause damage to the motherboard in shipping, enthusiasts still keep the torch burning. And there are absolutely reasons to go with air cooling: a good entry-level air cooler is typically about $20 less expensive than an entry-level liquid cooler, and has the potential to be quieter to boot. Where air coolers run into trouble is the sheer mass of a high performance air cooler, coupled with a potentially fraught installation process. Air coolers can cause clearance issues with DRAM with tall heatsinks or even other components. I tested our current premium line of liquid coolers – the Hydro Series H80i GT, H100i GTX, and H110i GT – against three of the most popular air coolers on the market. This testbed was used: CPU Intel Core i7-5960X at stock and overclocked to 4.3GHz with 1.35V on the core Motherboard Gigabyte X99-SOC Champion DRAM 4x4GB DDR4-2666 Corsair Vengeance LPX Chassis and Cooling Corsair Graphite Series 760T with 2x SP140L and 1x AF120 as intakes Additional SP140L added as an exhaust with air coolers and top-mounted radiators Top cover panel removed for all testing Graphics Card NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 (Reference) Power Supply Corsair AX1200i Fan Control Corsair Link Commander Mini Storage 128GB Force LX SSD “Competitor 1” retails for ~$90 and is absolutely massive. While installation wasn’t too difficult, it wound up essentially resting against the backplate of the GeForce GTX 980 in our test system. Removing either component wound up being an exercise in frustration. It’s loaded with heatpipes and uses two 150mm fans. “Competitor 2” is typically found for between $30 and $35 and is extremely popular among budget users. It’s not especially large and only has a single 120mm fan on it, but the design is efficient and prior to coming to Corsair it was my personal go-to. “Competitor 3” has an MSRP of $89.99 and is somewhat rarefied on American shores but very popular in Europe. It features a pair of 120mm fans, but installation was so involved that I had to actually remove the testbed motherboard from its chassis, and the Graphite Series 760T isn’t exactly cramped. And the basic specifications for the H80i GT, H100i GTX, and H110i GT: [attachment=41276:name] Hydro Series H80i [attachment=41277:name] Hydro Series H100i [attachment=41278:name] Hydro Series H110i 120mm x 49mm Radiator 240mm x 25mm Radiator 280mm x 25mmm Radiator 2x 120mm SP120L PWM Fans 2x 120mm SP120L PWM Fans 2x 140mm SP120L PWM Fans MSRP $99.99 MSRP $119.99 MSRP $129.99 During testing, the system was idled for 15 minutes to reach a stable temperature, then stress tested for 15 minutes with OCCT. The average of the eight peak core temperatures was recorded. Ambient temperature remained roughly 19C in the lab. I started testing with the CPU cooler fans set to run at 100% and the processor at stock speeds. The Intel Core i7-5960X is rated to dissipate 140W at stock speed, which is basically where the Intel Core i7-4790K stops. That said, the 5960X also has better thermal interface material and lower heat density; this is why reviews of coolers on an i7-4770K or i7-4790K are often less reliable, as they don’t adequately stress the coolers and those chips are at the mercy of their own heat transfer issues long before a cooler’s real potential is revealed. Right away you can see that our coolers offer a minimum of 2.8C better performance at this low heat load. You’ll see the H80i GT and H100i GTX trading blows, too; this is normal. These two coolers actually have roughly the same surface area, but the H100i GTX spreads it out, requiring less static pressure from the fans. This isn’t relevant when you’re running the fans full bore, but… …when you run them at lower speeds, the H100i GTX separates from the H80i GT. Running the fans at low speeds only costs you about 3C on the Hydro coolers, but the air coolers all run hotter and take a harder hit. Part of the explanation for this is the active cooling in a Hydro cooler vs. a conventional air cooler. The air cooler relies on heat pipes to transfer heat into the fin array, while a Hydro cooler has a pump that actively moves coolant through the radiator and waterblock. The fact remains that almost all of these coolers are still overqualified for a 140W processor. The i7-5960X is notorious for drawing massive amounts of power and generating tremendous heat when overclocked, so we’ll do just that and ramp power consumption up another ~110W. With fans maxed out, the Hydro coolers retain their lead while two of the air coolers start to seriously buckle, running more than 10C hotter than the H100i GTX. We’re at the point where we’re reaching the limits of what the i7-5960X can transfer to the cooling device and certainly the limits of two of the air coolers. Even if we slow the fans down, the Hydro coolers are still able to provide silent but efficient performance for the i7-5960X and a stable 4.3GHz while Competitors 2 and 3 are actually speed throttling. Air cooling’s best and brightest can get within striking distance of our H80i GT, but typically trails between 2C and 3C. The answer is pretty clear: Hydro series liquid cooling starts where air cooling gives up, offering quiet and efficient performance where the competition stops. And end users concerned about potential leaks need not worry; all of our coolers are leak tested before they leave the factory, and if one of our coolers does leak inside your system during the cooler’s five year warranty period, we’ll warrant against damage to your components on a case by case basis. Corsair Hydro series liquid cooling offers a whole lot of upside and very little in the way of drawbacks. If you haven’t checked it out yet, you can visit our cooling page here.
  9. Having been in the cooling business for a few years now, at Corsair we’ve developed a pretty healthy lineup of liquid CPU coolers. So healthy, in fact, that it may be a little bit difficult to figure out which cooler you want or even need.So how do you figure out which cooler to buy? For starters, the larger the cooler you use, the slower you can run the fans. The slower you run the fans, the quieter the cooler is. In our testing, we found that even an H80i GT can run with its fans on their minimum setting and keep a mighty Intel Core i7-5960X (at stock speeds) under 55C. So while it’s entirely possible to have “overkill,” it’s also typically pretty safe to just buy the largest cooler we offer (that’s compatible with your case) since you will, if nothing else, reap lower noise levels. Of course, what you’re cooling plays a big part in determining which cooler you’ll need. If you’re not planning on doing any serious overclocking and not using one of AMD’s 220W processors, you can actually likely get by with even an entry-level Hydro Series H55 or H60. But different chips have different thermal characteristics and produce different amounts of heat. For example, Intel’s Haswell (non-E) and Devil’s Canyon processors can hit a heat wall where they simply can’t transfer more heat into the cooler. Getting a bigger cooler can get you lower noise levels, but if your core voltage is already at 1.35V, odds are good a beefier cooler isn’t going to get you more overclocking headroom. And it shouldn’t; that heat wall shows up at roughly the highest amount of voltage you’d want to put into an Intel chip for daily use. So even though an overclocked Core i7-4790K may only dissipate about 140W of heat – essentially where Intel’s Haswell-E processors start – characteristics of the chip itself prevent it from dissipating any more heat than that, regardless of the cooler used. Haswell-E chips, on the other hand, can dissipate as much as 300W when overclocked, but because they have lower heat density and better thermal transfer characteristics than non-E chips do, they can eke more performance out of a better cooler. With all of that information in mind, I’ve produced a “decoder ring” which should give you a clear idea of the differences between all of the coolers we have available. Note that all of our coolers support all modern Intel (LGA 1150, 1155, 1156, 2011, 2011-3) and all AMD sockets after the ancient Socket A (excluding AM1). If you have an older Intel CPU (Core 2 Duo or LGA1366), please refer to the individual cooler pages for compatibility information. About Radiator Thickness The greater the thickness of the radiator, the deeper the cooler overall and the greater its performance potential. Note that a 240mm radiator with the standard 25mm thickness requires less static pressure to cool than a 120mm radiator with <50mm thickness; though the 120mm radiator may have nearly as much surface area, greater static pressure from the fans – and thus greater noise – is required to adequately cool the radiator. About Corsair Link Any cooler with Corsair Link can be connected to a USB 2.0 header on your motherboard and have fan speed programmed through our Corsair Link software. These coolers also sport RGB-backlit pump caps that can have their color changed in Corsair Link. 120mm Coolers These coolers are typically going to be the most compatible as far as cases are concerned. If your case has a rear 120mm fan mount, you should be able to use one of these. Cooler Radiator Thickness Fan(s) [attachment=41258:name] [attachment=41259:name] Hydro Series H55 25mm 120mm 3-pin No [attachment=41260:name] Hydro Series H60 25mm 120mm PWM No [attachment=41261:name] Hydro Series H75 25mm Dual 120mm PWM No [attachment=41262:name] Hydro Series H80i 38mm Dual 120mm PWM Yes [attachment=41263:name] Hydro Series H80i GT 49mm Dual 120mm PWM Yes Note that because of the H80i GT’s extra thick radiator, some motherboard layouts that place the CPU socket closer to the rear I/O cluster may create compatibility issues. You should measure a minimum of 50mm from the absolute rear of the case to the CPU socket to ensure compatibility. 140mm Coolers We only have one 140mm cooler: the oft-overlooked Hydro Series H90. The H90 comes with a single 140mm PWM fan, is 25mm thick, and does not offer Corsair Link connectivity. Compatibility is also dependent upon your case having a 140mm fan mount. That said, the H90 can also offer surprisingly exceptional cooling performance. Adding a second fan to the H90 can also generate enough air pressure to let you substantially reduce the speeds of both fans, giving you great cooling without a lot of noise. 240mm Coolers Most of our cases are compatible with our 240mm coolers, but you’ll want to measure at least 55mm of clearance to mount any of them; the H105 requires an additional 15mm of clearance. This form factor has become very popular for its balance of noise and performance, and support for it is very common on modern cases. Cooler Thickness Fan(s) [attachment=41265:name] [attachment=41266:name] Hydro Series H100i 25mm Dual 120mm PWM Yes [attachment=41267:name] Hydro Series H100i GTX 25mm Dual 120mm PWM Yes [attachment=41268:name] Hydro Series H105 37mm Dual 120mm PWM No At the time of this article’s writing, the H100i is the outgoing model and being replaced by the H100i GTX, which features a newer pump and more efficient fans. The H100i GTX will consistently outperform the older H100i. Please note that the H100i GTX has a slightly thicker radiator housing that may interfere with some motherboards in our Mini-ITX cases. If you’re unsure of compatibility, please use an H100i non-GTX. If you need more performance, the H105 sacrifices some compatibility for greater surface area and can come within striking distance of a larger 280mm cooler. 280mm Coolers While this is generally the “flagship” form factor, cases which support coolers this size are much less common. That said, these are the ones you want for absolutely the best performance Corsair offers. Cooler Thickness Fan(s) [attachment=41269:name] [attachment=41270:name] Hydro Series H110 25mm Dual 140mm PWM No [attachment=41271:name] Hydro Series H110i GT 25mm Dual 140mm PWM Yes Case Compatibility If you have a Corsair case, you can use the chart below to determine which coolers your case supports. If you have a non-Corsair case, you’ll want to check the manufacturer’s website to determine which types of liquid coolers your case supports. 120mm Coolers 140mm Coolers 240mm Coolers 280mm Coolers All Corsair Cases Carbide Series 200R Carbide Series 300R Carbide Series 400R Carbide Series 500R Carbide Series Air 540 Vengeance C70 Graphite Series 230T Graphite Series 730T Graphite Series 760T Graphite Series 780T Obsidian Series 250D Obsidian Series 350D Obsidian Series 450D Obsidian Series 550D Obsidian Series 650D Obsidian Series 750D Obsidian Series 900D Carbide Series 300R* Carbide Series 330R* Carbide Series 400R* Carbide Series 500R* Carbide Series Air 240 Carbide Series Air 540 Vengeance C70 Graphite Series 230T* Graphite Series 380T* Graphite Series 600T* Graphite Series 730T Graphite Series 760T Graphite Series 780T Obsidian Series 250D* Obsidian Series 350D Obsidian Series 450D Obsidian Series 550D* Obsidian Series 650D* Obsidian Series 700D* Obsidian Series 750D Obsidian Series 800D* Obsidian Series 900D Carbide Series 300R Carbide Series 330R Carbide Series Air 240 Carbide Series Air 540 Vengeance C70 Graphite Series 230T Graphite Series 730T Graphite Series 760T Graphite Series 780T Obsidian Series 350D Obsidian Series 450D Obsidian Series 650D Obsidian Series 750D Obsidian Series 900D *Is not compatible with Hydro Series H105.
  10. The Hydro Series H100i GTX cooler is the latest version of our best-selling H100i, improving upon its predecessor in almost every way. While the 240mm radiator mounting it requires was less common when the original H100 launched, support for 240mm coolers is becoming ubiquitous in mainstream cases. This guide is geared towards showing you how to install the H100i GTX on your Intel LGA115X processor. If you prefer video instructions, you can watch our guide on YouTube here: Let’s get started! Step 1: Mount the Backplate First, adjust the notches on the backplate inward for LGA115X compatibility. Push the standoffs through the back of the motherboard. Next, use the silver standoff screws and insert them into the backplate. The backplate may be a little bit loose even with all four screws installed; this is normal. Step 2: Attach Fans to Radiator We’ll need to prep the radiator for installation inside your case. Using the long screws included with the H100i GTX, attach both fans to the radiator, orienting the fan struts to the inside. You’ll always be able to tell which direction a fan blows by which side of the fan has the struts; we’re orienting these fans to push air through the radiator and exhaust that hot air outside of the case. Step 3: Attach Radiator to Case Gently slide the H100i GTX into the top of your case (or wherever the available 240mm mount is). Use the short screws and washers included with the cooler to affix it to the case. It may also be easier to install the center screws first. With all eight screws installed, the H00i GTX should now be securely mounted to the interior of your case. Step 4: Mount the Cooling Block The first thing we need to do before mounting the cooling block is remove the protective plastic cover. Note that there’s a silver disc of thermal interface material already applied to the underside of the block. Slide the block onto the standoffs. Use the included thumbscrews to secure the block, alternating corners in the same fashion you would remove or replace lugnuts on a tire. Be careful not to over-torque the screws; you can use a screwdriver, but “finger-tight” is typically enough. Step 5: Connect Fan and Pump Power Cables Now that we have the H100i GTX physically mounted and the waterblock in place, we need to connect the cables that allow it to run. Connect the leads from the two fans to the waterblock’s fan headers. Connect the block pump to the CPU_FAN header on your motherboard. Step 6: Connect Corsair Link Data Cable While the H100i GTX can operate without the Corsair Link software, it’s needed to get the most out of your new cooler. The Corsair Link software allows you to change the color of the pump cap backlight, adjust the pump speed, and program your own fan curves. Connect the mini-USB side of the included data cable to the waterblock. Connect the USB header side to a free 9-pin USB 2.0 header on your motherboard. When in Windows, visit the download site here to download the Corsair Link dashboard software to control the cooler. Your new H100i GTX should now be fully operational! Optional Extra Step While the H100i GTX is designed to be as easy to use as possible, you may need to disable fan control on the CPU_FAN header in your motherboard’s BIOS. Consult your motherboard’s user manual for information on how.
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