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Found 20 results

  1. I recently bought the "Corsair HS70 Pro Wireless" headsets, on the first use everything went well, but after installing the ICUE software I started to get a background noise in the sound. After a lot of research I came to the conclusion that it was the software because if I uninstall the software the noise disappears. The problem with not having the ICUE software is that I don't have anything that tells me the battery or the voice prompts, so I tried to find another fix that didn't uninstall the software and with a few tries I managed to find a fix. FIX 1. Install ICUE (if you haven't installed it) 2. Go to Windows Device Manager 3. Uninstall the "corsair composite virtual input device" found in "Human Interface Devices" (If a checkbox appears in the confirmation menu where you uninstall devices, don't forget to select it) 4. Uninstall the Headset device found in "Sound, video and game controllers" (in my case the device name is "CORSAIR HS70 Pro Wireless Gaming Headset")(If a checkbox appears in the confirmation menu where you uninstall devices, don't forget to select it) 5. Restart the pc 6. After restart the problem should be resolved P.S: I'm not sure if the ICUE EQ works because I don't notice a difference between the EQs even before doing this fix, I also don't know if the 7.1 works correctly because I don't use it. Otherwise everything seemed to work fine. It shouldn't be necessary to repeat the fix until ICUE gets an update, after several restarts the fix continues to work but I think that when ICUE performs an update the driver should be installed again. Hope this helps :)
  2. My mouse was fine after updating to the latest version of iCue initially. I then did the update for the wireless dongle to v.5.0.84 and now my mouse is no longer detected. Tried a reset Tried a clean install (deleted all corsair folders including those in the registry) I tried reinstalling a previous version of icue. Tried uninstalling the devices in Device Manager No luck with anything. My mouse can connect to my computer using bluetooth, but pairing using the 2.4GHz method with the dongle no longer works. Has anyone encountered this and found a fix? i attached screenshots for reference. You can see the version number for the dongle and also that the "Initiate" button to start pairing is grayed out and can't be selected. The last screenshot shows my mouse connected to my pc with bluetooth. This sucks since i can't load my profiles on bluetooth.
  3. Apologies in advance if this was posted in the wrong section -- new user, first post. I joined the forum to ask for some help with my Flash Voyager USB storage card. Earlier today, I was forced into visiting two libraries in the hopes of printing out some documents, but the flash drive was unable to connect to any computer into which it was plugged; normally, the blue indicator light on the flash drive will flicker as it connects to the computer without much of a wait, but now the light flashes briefly only once and remains solid without ever fully connecting to the computer with its files accessible. The afternoon before, I was making some final preparations for the documents ahead of printing them; two of the files were PDF documents, and I had finished editing them by adding text via the Microsoft Edge web browser. I saved the changes without incident and properly ejected the device, having seen no apparent problem with the device before earlier today. One librarian connected the flash drive to several other computers without any luck; that would prompt the suggestion that the flash drive may possibly have been corrupted somehow, while another librarian at the other location seemed stumped as to the cause of the problem, suggesting that the device may have just gone "kaput" for no rhyme or reason whatsoever. Again, the last action taken with this flash drive before this malfunction was executing a Save on these two PDF files via Microsoft Edge -- one-click save, no error message, no improper ejection. If the device had indeed been corrupted somehow, that final set of actions would have been the only probable cause. Once I returned home and attempted to connect my USB stick onto the very computer which it had been last successfully connected less than 24 hours earlier, I encountered the same connectivity problems. How this drive can go from functional to unfunctional in a matter of hours is a total mystery. Depending on the computer, the symptoms of the problem are slightly different: connecting the drive will not generate any pop-up Autoplay connection message, but the "Safely Remove Hardware And Eject Media" icon may still appear. A button for the disk drive may or may not appear, or might appear after waiting several moments (it normally would appear immediately upon being connected to the computer, usually within a few seconds). What's more, it won't display as "CORSAIR" like normal, but will have a general name of "USB Drive" instead, and won't indicate the presence of files or available disk space. If an attempt to eject the drive through the taskbar icon is made, the display (instead of "CORSAIR") will read "SM324BC MEMORY BAR" as the inserted device. Depending on the computer, attempting to double-click or right-click the "USB Drive" icon will either freeze the folder, making it unresponsive, or will prompt a pop-up message asking to "please insert a disk" as though one isn't present. I wanted to be as concise as possible in explaining the last 24 hours here, so I have also included screen captures of how the flash drive has performed since getting it home earlier this evening to go along with the information included above. If anyone can possibly diagnose the problems I've described, and perhaps most importantly suggest any corrective measures to take here, please feel welcome to reply with whatever information you can offer. I'm sure this isn't a new, unfamiliar problem to the forum over the years, so please feel free to share any advice that could diagnose the issue, or may provide some probable fix for it. Thanks in advance for any comments or replies after this message. - SirAMaDon_790
  4. Hi, im trying to currently remap some keys with the program iCue (running 4.17), and im using the k100 atm. So basically in the key assignments features don't work other than text, I seem to be only able use the text feature. Would like to know if im missing something to make it work or not, but ive tried a fresh reinstall and restart but that also failed. The keys im trying to bind/remap is to make G1 push/input as F6. Ive also tried to make W, D and it makes w become a dead key and d works as normal.
  5. If some of your keys are typing random strings of letters the fix below worked for me. 1 - Uninstall the Corsair CUE software and any other previous Corsair software installations. (Located in Control Panel > Programs and Features) 2 - Hold the windows key and press "R" to open the windows run command 3 - Type in %APPDATA% and press enter 4 - Delete the Corsair Folder (backup any settings or profiles if you wish by saving it somewhere else) 5 - Run a registry cleaning software such as CCleaner (Run registry scan and fix all issues, backup the registry if you like) 6 - Restart your system 7 - Install the Corsair software only for your specific hardware http://softwaredownloads.corsair.com/Files/Gaming-Keyboards/CorsairUtilityEngineSetup_2.7.78_release.msi
  6. Hi guys, I hope you are all safe and well. My son's chair has a big rip on the main part, so I will try to fix it before it gets worst... It is a big rip but he loves that so I will do my best to fix that, ideas/tips of how to achieve that are welcome... :laughing: Anyone had the same problem and fixed it? Thank you Best regards
  7. About a day or two ago I spilled some soda I had on my desk onto the right side of my K70 keyboard. It doesn't seem to be affecting the keys themselves, just the RGB. They keep blinking and flashing, they're also randomly changing colors or stuck on a solid color, or slightly dimmed. The caps lock, scroll lock and number lock indicators are also blinking and changing colors too? It's annoying and I want to fix this somehow, but it's alright if I have to live with the consequences of my mistake LOL. Any ideas of how I'd go about doing that?
  8. Hello, Recently my K70 (non rgb) has been having an issue where the backlight program button would randomly go into its program mode which stops any keys from typing but instead just turns the lights on and off. Changing the bios switch fixes it but only temporarily. Sometimes for a few seconds, sometimes 10 mins or so. Its getting annoying having the keyboard basically stop working and having to flick the switch. Has anyone else had this problem or know how to stop this issue? Thanks
  9. Hallo, ich habe insgesamt 8 LL Lüfter eingebaut. Und manchmal blinken die ganze Zeit. Wo ich noch alte icue Version hatte gab es sowas nicht. Die Lüfter sind vielleicht 1 Jahr alt. Video im Anhang.
  10. Wasn't sure where to post this, but I figured this was the best place for now. I was wondering if there would be a Version 2 of the Corsair 1000D. I currently own one and I can say that it's truly a great case, but there still some issues that have me asking me "why is this an issue on a $600 dollar case? 1) Why is the ITX button on the back of the case??? I understand not wanting to cause confusion, but a big power button and a small power (possibly labeled "ITX") on the front panel could have solved this issue. My case being up against the wall makes it a pain to reach it. 2) It would be nice if the Hard Drive Storage Bay was removable. However, more annoying is that the hard drive holders are made of the cheapest plastic you can find? I understand you don't see them, but its the fact that I'm paying $600 for a case. I expect quality from top to bottom. 3) My next issues is with the back cover used if you have a single PC system setup... why does it cover half of the vertical Graphics card ports for the second system?!? I understand a vertical mount is included for the main motherboard and aren't covered, but why wouldn't I just use the two vertical mounts all the way in front? However, I feel this is a simple part fix that just makes sense. Even if I don't have a second system, I'm going to want to display my graphics card as upfront as possible. 4) Finally, this is purely personal preference but it would be nice if the 2nd system could fit a Micro ATX and not just a Mini ITX. I feel the case is already huge...whats an extra 3 inches? But this would allow the 2nd system to be either a gaming or stream/recording set up. At this high end, most people are going to use an Elgato HD60 Pro 4K, or similar, that plugs into your PCIE Lanes, so you can mirror your game and capture it to the 2nd PC. You can use the the chips integrated GPU, but you would be pressed to be able to stream AND record. So having the second PCIE slot, available on the micro ATX would enable a graphics card and a capture card. Yes, I know you can get a USB capture card, but at this price point, you're gonna want the best of the best. And yes, I can use the main motherboard for steaming instead, but I would prefer to use a bigger motherboard to handle the CPU and GPU that I'm going to tax as hard as possible on ULTRA settings for 244hz 1080p or 144hz 4K, while the streaming/recording PC will be 1080p 60FPS stream and record. But most of these issues are not case breaking and the 1000d is still an awesome case. However, if these changes are made, mainly the first 2 and especially the 4th, I would buy the new version in a heart beat. I'm not sure what needs to be done to get the version 2 even considered, but I would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks
  11. So as the title says ~ one keyboard stabiliser is normal and goes up & down, whereas the other is stuck up and won't press down meaning the space bar barely moves, any way to fix this? 2nd image is of stuck stabiliser 3rd is of working Sorry for dirty keyboard I was about to clean it :/ (Edit) Managed to fix by taking out both stabilisers and replacing with the cable through the gap
  12. I recently purchased the Corsair SPEC-DELTA Carbide Series case and transferred my parts to find that one of the USB 3.0 slots on the case does not work.
  13. Ok, so i have the K95 platinum which to me is the most luxury item of my build. I love it. I have a baby that is 11 months, and my wife put she to play with the keyboard... and she snapped the spacebar out of place. I figured nothing bad happened, and put it in place. Now i realice that the spacebar is weird, and taking a closer look, the right stabilizer is stuck in the high position. I can manage to take it out (i mean, the inner part of a stabilizer). It seems to be fine, but i cant manage to put it back. It seems to me that the steel bar that is in the keyboard needs to go inside the hole that this "inner stabilizer part" has, but i cant manage to put it, nor to take out the outer part of the stabilizer. I searched in the internet for a video but nothing pops up. I cant imagine how it snapped off! Can anyone give me a hand? I dont want to use too much force and break something, nor to open all the keyboard.
  14. Hi All, I bought this headset on back in 2017, its currently on its last legs. Recently the mute button stopped working and annoyingly it got stuck on mute. I googled and found nothing, so I thought I might as well give it a go fixing it. With no experience of this at all, I got it working by doing the following: 1) Open the headphone, with a screwdriver (the side with the mic) 2) Undo the screws holding in the circuit board 3) Push through the volume dial allowing you to lift the circuit board from the case. (Be careful not to break any solder holding the wires) 4) On the other side of the circuit board, there are 2 buttons, one is the power and the other is the mute button. Manually click the mute button. 5) Reassemble 6) all working :) If it was still under warranty, I would have gone for that route; however, this headset was useless in the state it was in so I thought might as well give it a go. This is not advice or a tutorial, this is sharing my own experience. Good luck
  15. I have a problem with my Corsair H100i Platinum. After having disassembled it and reconnected to the motherboard, one of the two fans, precisely the one connected to the cable with the writing "1" no longer works, the fan remains off at 0 rpm. The second fan, connected instead to the cable that I assume is "2" (since there is no adhesive on) works correctly. If I invert the fans, the behavior remains that, the one connected to n.1 does not work, while the one connected to n.2 works. A sign that it is not the fan that is defective but the cable that goes from the waterblock on the CPU to the connector. I noticed that if I try to only partially remove the connector and push it slightly upwards, the fan works, but at maximum rpm. If I no longer apply pressure to the connector with my finger, the fan stops working. I checked the connector but it doesn't seem to have any pins out of place or in an abnormal position, it doesn't seem to be damaged at all. I know it seems obvious, but do you think the problem is the connector or something else? And if it were the connector, how could I fix it? I was thinking of connecting it directly to the motherboard, or taking a Y splitter, to connect everything on connector 2. But at this point I could not independently manage the two fans. At this point I thought, since less than a year has passed to send it as a guarantee? Recommend me.
  16. Since about 2 days ago the keyboard has refused to work. It started when i turned my PC on and it would randomly spam buttons, i then unplugged it and plugged it back in and it would show up like the picture attached with no keys functioning at all and not responding to the factory reset. I then left it overnight and came back to it working with RGB but certain keys were not working (a few news, shift, ctrl, backspace), i then restarted my pc again to which it has gone back to the same state of not showing any life except the 3 lock lights been on constantly. The keyboard has not had any issues in the past. I have had it for about 2 years now but i'd expect it to last longer than that. Before i was having these issues there was no signs of it dying, I just one day turned on my PC and it didn't work. I have tried on different computers and continue to get the same thing. The PC wont even detect a USB in the port. I have contacted Corsair Support but I am not sure if it is still in warranty. Posting to the forums to see what people say as I cannot find anyone with the same issue. Here is a picture of what the keyboard does when plugged in, notice the scroll lock, num lock and caps lock lights. https://b.catgirlsare.sexy/cQf4.jpg <--- i would display it but the image is so large that it breaks the website (literally)
  17. I can hear my self in sidetone but wheni right click on the sound slider and go to sounds i look at where my headphone is and it doesnt pick up my mic audio i right click on it go to properties go to listen and click listen to this device and i hear my self but it doesnt pick up any mic audio in any games or in the recording section of sounds how to fix
  18. I was having an issue with one of my keys ( specifically the B key ) color being a bit off and i was searching online on how to fix it. Many fixes included updating the firmware or plugging it into different USB slots, but one stood out to me: "try banging your keyboard against the wall" I didn't do that because quite honestly i like this keyboard and its not even 2 weeks old, but i saw a bit of dust in between the keys so i blew on it. My B key fixed itself. I thought i was hallucinating at first so i blew on it again and it made it change to a red hue instead of the solid white it should have been. I went into full blown panic mode and furiously started blowing into my keyboard trying to get it back to its bright solid white i had it before. It worked after 10 minutes and me nearly passing out, but i just really want to know what could be causing my keys to change colors when i blow on them lol. I have the k70 lux rgb and i got it off amazon not even 2 weeks ago.
  19. Just updated to iCUE and I notice that after I play a CPU heavy game, The fans on my H100i would not go back down to low RPM when the CPU temp ( I take the temp on the package ) was at that point on the fan curve and my case fans goes to 0 RPM when the CPU is cool enough but they are stuck in high RPM. After some googling and a bit of trial and error I found that if I restart the CorsairService that is running on my PC everything just works. So I made a script that I run after I exit a game to restart it. But I wonder do anyone have a better solution? If anyone is having the same problems I have, Here is the script I am using net stop CorsairService && net start CorsairService Open notepad and enter that, Press File and Choose Save as and then change save as type to All Files and then name the file to whatever you want but and the end of the file write .bat Now you have my quick fix for the problem but I hope someone will post a better one.
  20. So i figured out one thing what if the corsair mice's are intended to do double clicking.... when you hold the left click tightly it double clicks when released, same as when dragging a file it drops suddenly at a point...... But if you do it gently and softly i managed to accurately do the things normally and tested out many scenarios, and to my findings if you click the left button harder it tends to double click.. it might be a feature for corsair products? or can be customized on the next CUE software or newer firmware? or it could be just a faulty mouse.... other than that its impossible for it to be a faulty mouse since a-lot of people have been complaining about this problem consistently for their Corsair mouses.... correct me if i'm wrong. i would like to take on suggestions.
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