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About Me



Optical Drive # 1







Found 12 results

  1. Hey there Has anyone else has an issue with an MP510 240GB dying? The drive is just over a year old and is in my son's build. His PC started freezing a little while back and occasionally would go straight into BIOS instead of restarting. I found that the MP510 dissapears in BIOS and sometimes takes a while to come back. I found hundreds of 'drive has bad block' errors in Event Viewer which Chkdsk /F seemed to fix for a few hours. I've since ran the device self check in BIOS and the drive fails with the attached message. I've got a ticket open with Corsair so we'll see how it goes. What I did notice while troubleshooting, when reseating the drive, the top right section on the black product sticker had shrunk around the component underneath and there was a little 'tape sweat' like you get on electricians tape when what it's wrapped around gets hot. Thanks Paul D
  2. I have an HS 70 Pro that I have been using with my Mac Pro as a wired USB device without difficulty for about a year. I am now trying to pair it with my Mac Book Pro as a wireless device. Bluetooth shows a BDP-S6700 (? code for the headset). If the code is correct, then it has paired. Still the iCue software will not identify the headset so I can use it. So either the code is incorrect or I am screwing up something. Note that I have also tried this as a wired USB device on the Mac Book Pro. Any ideas, suggestion, or other help appreciated. Thanks.
  3. I've tried three USB ports, uninstalling and reinstalling drivers, and uninstalling and reinstalling icue. For whatever reason, anytime I plug the mouse dongle into my computer, all it does is add a new ironclaw mouse to icue. Right now, my computer thinks I've tried five different Ironclaw mice. Hard and soft resets do nothing. Updating and reinstalling drivers does nothing. The mouse works fine in wired mode. Bluetooth mode allows it to exist as a generic mouse, but icue doesn't detect it (and I'd rather stick to the 2.4GHz wireless mode). I've sent in a support ticket, but three or more days is a long time to just not use my PC. Where do I go from here?
  4. I brought a brand new Corsair H100i Pro RGB from a retail in Australia and after 4 weeks of use the pump failed and I contacted the retail where I brought it from and was asked to shipped the item back for RMA. I shipped the item back and a week later they sent the same cooler back but with a new pump head replaced and the water in the radiator was less full than how it was brand new. The return box was damaged and poorly packaged with loose screws and accessories insecurely rattling all over inside the box. Could someone advise if this is how Corsair honour their warranty?
  5. Hello all, So after many hours of planning and research, I got everything hooked up this weekend. doing my 24 hour leak test went very well, with no condensation or dripping. During this time I had the commander pro hooked up as well, testing lights on the new fans and verifying they all run properly. everything seemed to go well, but about 2 hours in all the RGB shut off on the fans. At that point it was fine with me as it was pretty late. When I woke the next morning I began the excruciating task of cable management, already having a single commander pro and a lighting node pro, on top of doing push/pull on the new 420 rad. So, 6 fans in total for the new Cpro. Got everything wired up, and the fans are spinning (on very, very low speeds) and none of the RGB will work. So I think maybe its the fact i'm using a USB plug direct from my motherboard, and so i plug it into the commander pro I already have, to one of the USB headers. Windows throws a USB device not recognized error and icue wont see it. I move my lighting node pro to the supposedly working Commander Pro, and running from its USB header it wont show up in Icue either. Weird, huh? So my brand new commander is basically DoA, as well as the USB plugs on my (seemingly otherwise fine) Cpro not recognizing a lighting node pro or the other commander pro. I should note that I have replugged, checked all wiring, the lighting node pro works fine when direct to the motherboard, on the working Cpro. Also, the new (completely not working) cpro wont even allow its RGB hub to funciton when plugged into an LED port, but if i move it to the second commander pro with the janky USB headers, it works fine from its LED port. So, I have one "semi" working commander pro (USB headers not working?) and a brand new 800$ HydroX setup that I cant use (and on the default hardware setting wont even compete with the 240 AIO I replaced it with) because i cant control fan speed. I can only set pump speed, but it isnt recognized as a HydroX system (No HydroX Profiles appear available, and it doesnt list it in devices) and even then at 100% (4k RPM) it still wont beat my 240. I have a feeling this is solely due to lack of fancurve and pump settings in iCue not being available, and the fans being stuck at the lowest possible speed (once again I have 5 LL's in Push Pull) Please help. I put a ticket in last week with support, and haven't heard anything back. at the moment i feel like a fool having spent so much money and I cant even cool a 9900k at 5.0ghz without hitting 90 degrees, whereas my 240 AIO wouldn't even break 85ish.
  6. A little story and a lesson i learned in hard way. This happened to me long time ago. But i thought i just share it :) While i was stress testing to see if my OC was stable, i decided to change the pump speed to see how it affects CPU temps. Just when i applied new speed, system froze... unstable OC, BSOD. It didn't take too long until i noticed my CPU was running at 800Mhz, super slow. Could not boot into windows. even in bios it was struggling to run. Temp was at 100C! Basically pump speed was set to 0... what a mess! So i shutdown my PC, plugged out all power cables, waited like 10 minutes for pump to cool down. (It was really warm!) Then i tried to get into windows, I only had a few minutes before the CPU reached 100C again and shutdown itself. So again after 10 minutes i reduced Vcore voltage as low as it made sense! Finally i could get into windows and set pump speed back to Quiet mode. And there i revived my cooler :3 Not to be paranoid or anything, just make sure your system is stable before changing the pump speed. Because it can be a PITA if you get unlucky... That cooler is still running good though ;) ---- My suggestion to Corsair is to include hard reset button on their coolers because that would be really handy for cases like this.
  7. Bear with me guys I'm not up to speed on hardware anymore. Bought this recently built PC from a friend. Worked fine for long enough. unplugged everything as the house was getting renovated. Stored it in a spare bedroom. Put it back together tonight with 1 monitor instead of the usual 4, no peripherals bar the mouse and keyboard. Instant CPU fan speed error (0 rpm) followed by rapidly escalating temperatures. Have checked all connections, none had been touched - nothing's been altered in any way since it was last used. The radiator fans work, the logo illuminates (white initially then red). Some warmth at the cpu end of the hoses but otherwise all is cold. It seems as if the pump has died in storage.. It seems to take its power directly from the SATA cable that runs the dvd drive. DVD drive works, and have tried swapping and re-seating SATA plugs at both ends. IDK what the USB lead is for. CPU fan speed cable is plugged into its usual place. Other fans are reading fine in their positions though I haven't tried putting them in the CPU fan spot. Given the temperature escalation I guess the pump isn't running in any case. Hope someone can suggest a fix, or it'll be back to a cheap heatsink and fan for me....
  8. Hey everyone, So I just gave my K70 keyboard a quick clean (took all the keys off and washed them, dusted the aluminium). Let the keys dry, and put them back on. I have done this process many times over the past 2-3 years. But when I plugged it back in, I noticed that a bunch of my red LED's aren't working anymore: F4, 4, R, F, C, Home, Page Down, 5 (numpad), Skip media key -- all of these keys are green when they should be red. F3, 3, E, 0, P, ;, End, Play/Pause key, +(numpad), 0(numpad) -- all display as orange when they should be red. F7, 7, U, J, N -- all display as slightly pink but they should be red. All other colours appear to work fine on theys keys - it's just red that doesn't work. I've had this keyboard for a few years and it's definitely not eligible for an RMA. Any solutions, or should I look at getting a new one?
  9. Legionist

    Corsair H90

    Hello! i have a h90 aio water cooler for my i5 7640x and for some reason a week ago the pump stoped working. Saturday i got back to my pc and decided to give it another try and i've taken the pump out and remounted it with the radiator in another position and now it works... Can you please tell me what is wrong with it? if i put it back in its original position it doesn't work and if i put it the way it is now, it works.... i find it pretty strange and i'm worried that something might happen to my pc.Also when i start the pc sometimes it gives me the water pump failure alert and after 2-3 seconds it stops as the pump works..
  10. I didn't see a Bug Report forum, but please move this thread if necessary. In the meantime, I'm just gonna post here and cross my fingers. As the title says, after waking from sleep, I'm unable to change the H115i pump speed via Corsair Link. If I restart CL, then neither the pump nor its attached fans show up at all. Rebooting fixes all issues. No issues with any other fan, LED, or temperature sensor -- only the H115i and directly connected components
  11. Greetings I would like to report a bug in the firmware of these SSDs. - Description: Boss asked me to backup two such SSDs using GHOST. I connected each SSD via an USB to SATA connector and started to dump the data to a local uncompressed .gho file. At around 84% the program reported a bad sector, then it shutted down with some internal failure error. In "My Computer" the drive dissapeared. At reboot the HDD is no longer detected as 120GB capacity, but as an old 20 MBytes HDD. [later edit] The following data is the same for both SSD drives: - Disk Drive Information: Part Number: CSSD-F120GBLSB Device Manager (Windows 7/32 bit) shows the SSD information as following: PS3109S9 USB Device Disk Manager reports as following: Disk1: Unknown, 20 MBytes, Not Initialized I am unable to boot MsWindows with this SSD inserted into the motherboard SATA port (AHCI enabled according to the Corsair SSD Toolbox instructions). Also unable to boot with SATA port switched to compatibility mode (IDE). Windows automatically restarts, it does not reach the desktop. Corsair SSD ToolBox 1.2 Drive Information Tool: Model Number: USB Fixed Disk Serial Number: [blank] Firmware Version: [some times it displays "S9RB", some times blank] Configuration ID N/A Drive Size: 20.9 MB ATA Version: Minor version is not reported (unknown) Features [blank] Temperature [blank] Total Host Reads: 0B Total Host Writes: 0B BSD Unix diagnosis when connected via USB to SATA converter: kernel: da0: <PS3109S9> Fixed Direct Access SPC-3 SCSI device kernel: da0: Serial Number 000000000000 kernel: da0: 30.000MB/s transfers kernel: da0: 20MB (40961 412 byte sectors) and tons of read errors. I would like to ask the technical team to confirm this problem: - Install some operating system on this type of SSD; - connect this SSD to any USB to SATA converter, connect it to some PC before or after some MsWindows starts (I used Hirens BootCD 15.2); - Run ghost, make a image from this SSD to some other local file, no compression; - Be patient as the data transfer is extremely slow no matter if the USB is 3.0; - after failure check the parameters and adapt the firmware so it won't repeat the problem Also I would like to ask for assistance in forcing a firmware rewrite. Corsair SSD Toolbox blocks the firmware update button when selecting this drive. Thank you.
  12. Hello. I unable to log into support page (error) and not sure whew else to post. I have a K95 keyboard which I bought in 2015. 2 months ago the Q LED failed and in the next month 21 other LEDs failed. No liquid spilt, infrequent use (<1 hour a day). This is obviously a quality issue or design failure of the keyboard and i contacted the seller. Currys have only offered me £40 due to the fact i have had use out of it but I can't replace it for that and I am unable to find out the cost of repairing it so has anyone got any suggestions? It is unacceptable that a keyboard at this price point should fail so soon. DS.
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