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About Me



Optical Drive # 1







Found 8 results

  1. Hey there Has anyone else has an issue with an MP510 240GB dying? The drive is just over a year old and is in my son's build. His PC started freezing a little while back and occasionally would go straight into BIOS instead of restarting. I found that the MP510 dissapears in BIOS and sometimes takes a while to come back. I found hundreds of 'drive has bad block' errors in Event Viewer which Chkdsk /F seemed to fix for a few hours. I've since ran the device self check in BIOS and the drive fails with the attached message. I've got a ticket open with Corsair so we'll see how it goes. What I did notice while troubleshooting, when reseating the drive, the top right section on the black product sticker had shrunk around the component underneath and there was a little 'tape sweat' like you get on electricians tape when what it's wrapped around gets hot. Thanks Paul D
  2. I have an HS 70 Pro that I have been using with my Mac Pro as a wired USB device without difficulty for about a year. I am now trying to pair it with my Mac Book Pro as a wireless device. Bluetooth shows a BDP-S6700 (? code for the headset). If the code is correct, then it has paired. Still the iCue software will not identify the headset so I can use it. So either the code is incorrect or I am screwing up something. Note that I have also tried this as a wired USB device on the Mac Book Pro. Any ideas, suggestion, or other help appreciated. Thanks.
  3. I've tried three USB ports, uninstalling and reinstalling drivers, and uninstalling and reinstalling icue. For whatever reason, anytime I plug the mouse dongle into my computer, all it does is add a new ironclaw mouse to icue. Right now, my computer thinks I've tried five different Ironclaw mice. Hard and soft resets do nothing. Updating and reinstalling drivers does nothing. The mouse works fine in wired mode. Bluetooth mode allows it to exist as a generic mouse, but icue doesn't detect it (and I'd rather stick to the 2.4GHz wireless mode). I've sent in a support ticket, but three or more days is a long time to just not use my PC. Where do I go from here?
  4. I brought a brand new Corsair H100i Pro RGB from a retail in Australia and after 4 weeks of use the pump failed and I contacted the retail where I brought it from and was asked to shipped the item back for RMA. I shipped the item back and a week later they sent the same cooler back but with a new pump head replaced and the water in the radiator was less full than how it was brand new. The return box was damaged and poorly packaged with loose screws and accessories insecurely rattling all over inside the box. Could someone advise if this is how Corsair honour their warranty?
  5. Hello all, So after many hours of planning and research, I got everything hooked up this weekend. doing my 24 hour leak test went very well, with no condensation or dripping. During this time I had the commander pro hooked up as well, testing lights on the new fans and verifying they all run properly. everything seemed to go well, but about 2 hours in all the RGB shut off on the fans. At that point it was fine with me as it was pretty late. When I woke the next morning I began the excruciating task of cable management, already having a single commander pro and a lighting node pro, on top of doing push/pull on the new 420 rad. So, 6 fans in total for the new Cpro. Got everything wired up, and the fans are spinning (on very, very low speeds) and none of the RGB will work. So I think maybe its the fact i'm using a USB plug direct from my motherboard, and so i plug it into the commander pro I already have, to one of the USB headers. Windows throws a USB device not recognized error and icue wont see it. I move my lighting node pro to the supposedly working Commander Pro, and running from its USB header it wont show up in Icue either. Weird, huh? So my brand new commander is basically DoA, as well as the USB plugs on my (seemingly otherwise fine) Cpro not recognizing a lighting node pro or the other commander pro. I should note that I have replugged, checked all wiring, the lighting node pro works fine when direct to the motherboard, on the working Cpro. Also, the new (completely not working) cpro wont even allow its RGB hub to funciton when plugged into an LED port, but if i move it to the second commander pro with the janky USB headers, it works fine from its LED port. So, I have one "semi" working commander pro (USB headers not working?) and a brand new 800$ HydroX setup that I cant use (and on the default hardware setting wont even compete with the 240 AIO I replaced it with) because i cant control fan speed. I can only set pump speed, but it isnt recognized as a HydroX system (No HydroX Profiles appear available, and it doesnt list it in devices) and even then at 100% (4k RPM) it still wont beat my 240. I have a feeling this is solely due to lack of fancurve and pump settings in iCue not being available, and the fans being stuck at the lowest possible speed (once again I have 5 LL's in Push Pull) Please help. I put a ticket in last week with support, and haven't heard anything back. at the moment i feel like a fool having spent so much money and I cant even cool a 9900k at 5.0ghz without hitting 90 degrees, whereas my 240 AIO wouldn't even break 85ish.
  6. A little story and a lesson i learned in hard way. This happened to me long time ago. But i thought i just share it :) While i was stress testing to see if my OC was stable, i decided to change the pump speed to see how it affects CPU temps. Just when i applied new speed, system froze... unstable OC, BSOD. It didn't take too long until i noticed my CPU was running at 800Mhz, super slow. Could not boot into windows. even in bios it was struggling to run. Temp was at 100C! Basically pump speed was set to 0... what a mess! So i shutdown my PC, plugged out all power cables, waited like 10 minutes for pump to cool down. (It was really warm!) Then i tried to get into windows, I only had a few minutes before the CPU reached 100C again and shutdown itself. So again after 10 minutes i reduced Vcore voltage as low as it made sense! Finally i could get into windows and set pump speed back to Quiet mode. And there i revived my cooler :3 Not to be paranoid or anything, just make sure your system is stable before changing the pump speed. Because it can be a PITA if you get unlucky... That cooler is still running good though ;) ---- My suggestion to Corsair is to include hard reset button on their coolers because that would be really handy for cases like this.
  7. Bear with me guys I'm not up to speed on hardware anymore. Bought this recently built PC from a friend. Worked fine for long enough. unplugged everything as the house was getting renovated. Stored it in a spare bedroom. Put it back together tonight with 1 monitor instead of the usual 4, no peripherals bar the mouse and keyboard. Instant CPU fan speed error (0 rpm) followed by rapidly escalating temperatures. Have checked all connections, none had been touched - nothing's been altered in any way since it was last used. The radiator fans work, the logo illuminates (white initially then red). Some warmth at the cpu end of the hoses but otherwise all is cold. It seems as if the pump has died in storage.. It seems to take its power directly from the SATA cable that runs the dvd drive. DVD drive works, and have tried swapping and re-seating SATA plugs at both ends. IDK what the USB lead is for. CPU fan speed cable is plugged into its usual place. Other fans are reading fine in their positions though I haven't tried putting them in the CPU fan spot. Given the temperature escalation I guess the pump isn't running in any case. Hope someone can suggest a fix, or it'll be back to a cheap heatsink and fan for me....
  8. Hey everyone, So I just gave my K70 keyboard a quick clean (took all the keys off and washed them, dusted the aluminium). Let the keys dry, and put them back on. I have done this process many times over the past 2-3 years. But when I plugged it back in, I noticed that a bunch of my red LED's aren't working anymore: F4, 4, R, F, C, Home, Page Down, 5 (numpad), Skip media key -- all of these keys are green when they should be red. F3, 3, E, 0, P, ;, End, Play/Pause key, +(numpad), 0(numpad) -- all display as orange when they should be red. F7, 7, U, J, N -- all display as slightly pink but they should be red. All other colours appear to work fine on theys keys - it's just red that doesn't work. I've had this keyboard for a few years and it's definitely not eligible for an RMA. Any solutions, or should I look at getting a new one?
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