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  1. Most modern cases include a power supply cover or shroud that cleans up the internal look of your PC by hiding things such as your PSU cables and drive cages. However, some cases don’t include this or you may want to upgrade your existing case with one, so I will show you how to make one on your own! For this guide, we’re going to use a build in the Carbide Series SPEC-04 Tempered Glass case. As you can see in the image above, it’s a great budget case with an open internal layout with the PSU and cables visible. A PSU shroud would be an easy mod to do to for this case and would help clean things up. First, I put together a quick mockup using cardboard. Cardboard is a great way to quickly prototype parts like a PSU cover which can be hard to visualize. Next, I measured how wide the cover needed to be. Then I measured the length, which can change based on your fan configuration in the front or any other parts that may get in the way. Finally, I measured the height, which we’ll add to the width to figure out how big a piece we’ll need to cut out, adding a few extra millimeters for the bend. I marked out the measurements on a sheet of 2mm thick aluminum. This was later cut out with a jigsaw and the edges filed down with regular hand files and sandpaper. Take the height from the measurements again and mark out on the sheet of aluminium, this will help when doing the bend. I used a sheet bender for this. This is how the part ended up looking after the bend, however I did not want it to be raw aluminum… …so I spray-painted it white. If you’re interested in the process I used, I covered spray-painting parts in a previous blog post. Mounting the cover is very straightforward, I did not want any screws to be seen so I used 3M double-sided tape and mounted the cover to the PSU itself. This is how it ended up looking mounted, much cleaner don’t you think? When the entire project was finished I ended up with a pretty great result, what do you think? Leave a comment and stay tuned for more how-to mod blogs.
  2. Here at CORSAIR, we are your one-stop shop for PC building with all of our different hardware and peripherals. With the CORSAIR PC Builder, we can provide guidance with your build just based on your preferences (ex. size) and goals (ex. performance, maximum RGB). Let's take a more in-depth look at the builder. The Builder is kept up to date with the newest components on the market and verifies compatibility between products, giving you less to worry about! ☺️ Our fully comprehensive builder will automatically sort out incompatible products and recommend the best hardware for your build based on its components. Alongside seamless build guidance, filters for each step of the builder will expedite you to building the meanest, cleanest gaming PC. You're in complete control! Customize and choose the aesthetic of your dreams or wildest imagination. 💭 At the end of your build, all CORSAIR hardware may be checked out through the online CORSAIR store. Save time and skip the hassle of navigating through five different websites to find your components, and instead check out from one location. The remaining motherboard, processor, and graphics cards are the only items to be purchased separately. 🛒 The CORSAIR PC Builder provides a simple tool to test compatibility between not only our products, but your motherboard, CPU, and GPU as well. Building the perfect PC just got easier with the ability to do it all under one roof. See for yourself what you can build on our builder HERE.
  3. Hi everyone, i bought WS2812b from amazon to make my own strips, puting them outside of my case, and saving some money... (dont say it too loud) My setup works well, until i add a second strip on the other channel of my CLNP. Here’s the link to the video showing me connecting the second rgb strip... https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vPUyKYTMvigC2jHZ0Am37IlUVD-Hws8M/view?usp=drivesdk Knowing that i cut off the sata cable and only connected the 5v to my PSU, do someone out there could know why that’s happening? (each strip works on each channel individually) Here is the link to the strips, if it helps: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01LSF4Q0A/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_5IioEbHXK279H Here is a link the the thread i followed to make the strips: https://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=168504
  4. Overclocking memory can seem like a daunting task for the inexperienced, but fret not, we at CORSAIR can help! Follow the link below for our .PDF guide to overclocking your system memory for your Ryzen 3000 series build. The guide uses a GIGABYTE X570 AORUS MASTER motherboard for the examples, but there’s a helpful table at the end with specific configuration BIOS locations for motherboards from other major manufacturers such as ASUS and MSI! Ryzen 3000 Memory Overclocking Guide
  5. CUE SDK has been updated to include DIY devices (Lighting Node PRO/Commander PRO). Supported Devices: Keyboards: CGK65 RGB K65 LUX RGB K65 RGB RAPIDFIRE K70 RGB K70 LUX K70 RAPIDFIRE K70 LUX RGB K70 RGB RAPIDFIRE K95 RGB STRAFE STRAFE RGB K63 (wired) K68 K95 RGB PLATINUM Mice: M65 M65 PRO RGB SABRE SABRE RGB SABRE RGB Optical SABRE RGB Laser Scimitar GLAIVE RGB Scimitar PRO RGB KATAR Headsets: VOID USB VOID Wireless VOID PRO USB VOID PRO Wireless Mouse Mat: MM800 RGB Headset Stand: ST100 RGB LED Controllers: Lighting Node PRO Commander PRO Requirements: Windows 7, 8, 10 http://downloads.corsair.com/download?item=Files/CUE/CUESDK_3.0.171.zip
  6. I want to paint the sides of my keycaps, and I know that taking off keycaps doesn't void your warranty. But, I wanted to know if painting your keycaps is fine, seeing as you aren't 'harming' or taking apart the keyboard itself.
  7. First off, could you tell us a little about yourself? I started playing video games when I was about seven and I was mostly a console gamer for a long time because I couldn’t afford to buy or build a computer. So I saved up money throughout college, I was working I think three jobs at the time and saved up enough money and built my first computer. Ever since then I’ve been fully converted to playing PC games. About two years ago I started streaming on Twitch and then a year after that I quit my full time job as a graphic designer to focus on streaming full time. When did you build your first computer and how many have you built now? I think it was right before I started streaming about two years ago, so maybe two and a half years. This build is my third. You built the PC for your sister to give her an upgrade, but what inspired you to do so? She’s the kind of person who would never do this for herself and she doesn’t like to spend money on herself. I knew that she needed an upgrade because she’s been using an old laptop for about five or six years. I really wanted to introduce her to some of my favorite games as well and most of them are PC games. I figured the only way I was going to get her to do that would be if I took the initiative and built her the computer myself. So it was also a way for you to reconnect with your sister via games? Yeah, because there are a lot of PC exclusives that I wanted her to experience and she just couldn’t run anything on that laptop, so I built her a new computer. We used to play console games all the time and then once I swapped over to playing PC games there was kind of a divide there where she couldn’t play the same as I was playing because I was playing on a PC and she didn’t have a computer that didn’t have any PC games. Was it a surprise for her or did she know beforehand? It was a surprise for a while but she started talking about buying a new laptop and I had already started contacting companies about parts. I was going to make it a surprise but I had to tell her not to buy a laptop, so I kind of had to reveal it to her. One of the biggest obstacles to high-end PC gaming is the knowledge needed to buy parts and put together a build. How much about parts and building did you know going into it? With the age of the internet that we’re in it’s very easy to learn how to do just about anything and building a computer seems more of a daunting task than it actually is. The first time I built a computer it was nerve wracking but the second and third times it was less scary. You just kind of have to get over the fear of breaking things because everything is a lot less delicate than you expect it will be, except for the CPU. I watched a lot of tutorials online and refreshed my memory about how to do it and it wasn’t scary. It was scarier to be doing it with an audience. How did having an audience affect the build process? It took a lot longer because I was stopping to explain things and I was stopping to read the chat. The whole build took quite a while because of the time I was taking to talk to people. There was one part where I plugged one of the power supply cords in the wrong way and then because of the positioning I couldn’t reach my hand where I needed to to pull it out of the socket. It was getting really frustrating because normally you would just deal with it and unplug it, but because I had so many people watching and they’re all watching me have this struggle. The knowledge of that was pretty nerve wracking. Were there any instances that your viewers were helpful during the process? Among the PC building community it’s kind of a contentious topic about whether to install the fans as intake or exhaust and so for a while we were going back and forth and I was debating with the chat about what was going to be the best for my specific situation. So it was nice to talk to them and have their feedback about their experiences on whether it’s better to do it one way or the other. I ended up going with the way CORSAIR has it printed in the manual, which I believe was intake. Based on your experience streaming this build would you do it again the future? I would definitely do it again. It was frustrating but it was still a fun and interesting process. Building a PC for my mom is something I’d also like to do, she has a Chromebook so she doesn’t even have a full laptop. When it came to the tools you had on hand, what was most useful during your build? I did get a plastic Lazy Susan so I could set the case on it and spin it. Even if I hadn’t streamed it, it was super useful rather than having to pick up the entire case and turn it around, I could just spin it on this little Lazy Susan. What advice would you give someone who wanted to start building their first PC, based on your experiences? The knowledge that things aren’t quite as delicate. You do need to be careful but you don’t have to be as careful as you might expect to, except for things like the CPU. When you’re plugging things in sometimes you kind of have to force it to click and I know the first time I was building my computer I was lacking in confidence. As long as you’re paying attention to the tutorials and you kind of know what you’re doing, you need to have confidence while building the computer. You should respect that the parts are expensive and there are certain pieces that are delicate but sometimes you have to force things together. Have you ever wanted to build something crazier? More lights, more design? Yeah I think if I had more expendable income or if I was just doing something more for the build’s sake I would really like to do one that’s color coordinated. I don’t know if I’d ever want to get into custom water cooling because it seems like so much effort and it’s so easy to install CORSAIR coolers that I don’t know if I’d want to put that extra pressure on myself. But if I could just buy any parts that I wanted I think I’d want to do a white and black or yellow and black color coordinated build. We want to give Anne a big thank you for taking the time to talk to us as well as streaming the build! CPU Cooler: CORSAIR H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Memory: CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-2400 PSU: CORSAIR RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular Case: CORSAIR 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower
  8. Selecting Components: PSU Selecting a PSU is more than just knowing how much power you'll need to power your build, but also what features best suits your build and building preferences. There are also a number of features that you might want in a power supply like a Zero RPM mode that allows the PSU to be completely silent, Corsair Link compatibility that allows you to monitor your PSU, modularity that allows you to remove unused cables and different levels of efficiency that can save you money on your electric bill. What's going to fit in my chassis? Most chassis are standard ATX form factor. And while there are also chassis made for micro ATX and mini ITX motherboards, they will typically take a standard ATX power supply as well. A standard ATX power supply always has a rear dimension of 150mm x 86mm: What can vary is the depth of the unit: So first thing's first: check to see how much room you have for a power supply. Take into consideration that cables will need to come out of the front of the power supply unit and that you'll need access to those cables. The next thing that often gets asked is "what should the orientation of the PSU be?" In most pictures, you'll see the fan of the PSU facing up, but the fact of the matter is the PSU can be mounted with either the fan pointing up or the fan pointing down. So this shouldn't be a concern as long as the intake fan is not obstructed. Non-modular, semi-modular or fully modular? The modularity of a power supply refers to what cables, if any, can be removed from the PSU housing. If a power supply is non-modular, that means none of the DC output cables can be removed. For a lot of people this is perfectly fine. You may need all of the cables or you have somewhere to hide excess cables. But when a power supply is modular, meaning you can remove certain DC cables from the housing, you don't have to worry about hiding unused cables. Why hide unused cables? Well, for one, it looks good. The other benefit is airflow. Every extra piece you have running across a path of air inside the chassis is going to disrupt that airflow; even if it's something as small as a power supply cable. When you have a semi-modular power supply, typically the cables that cannot be removed are cables that every user is going to need no matter what kind of PC they're building. Take the modular CX series, for example: The CX500M pictured above has two fixed cables: the 24-pin, which any standard ATX motherboard requires, and the 8-pin that's used to get additional power to the CPU. Other than these two, every other cable is modular. Meaning: every SATA, Molex or PCIe cable can be added or removed depending on the machine being built that this power supply is going to power. A fully modular power supply like the RM Series (that's the PSU that's shown at the very beginning of this blog post) has NO fixed cables. The best part of this is during the initial building of the PC. You can bolt in all of your hardware, including your power supply, without any cables to move out of your way. Then, as a final step of your build, you can add whatever cables are needed and hide them any way you can. Even hiding the cables are easier because you can leave the cable detached from the PSU and whatever you need to power until you're done hiding it. If budget is a concern, keep in mind that modularity isn't always free. That CX500M you see up there sells for about $70. If you need more power, but only have $70 to spend on a power supply, you can get the CX600 that's non-modular instead. So make sure you prioritize! How much power do I need? Now that you know what physical size can fit in your chassis, it's time to consider how much power you'll need. The first thing to remember is that a computer's power supply only puts out as much power as required of it. So even if you have a 1000W power supply, if your computer only needs 350W, the power supply is only going to put out 350W. That's not to say you should get the biggest PSU possible even if you know your computer won't use that much power, but it's better to get something bigger than what you need than something that's barely big enough. First, let's try to figure out how much power we need. This actually isn't too difficult. Both CPUs and GPUs are given a factor called Thermal Design Power, or TDP. This number refers to the maximum amount of heat watts a cooling system must be able to dissipate and keep the CPU or GPU at or under its maximum operating temperature. You can easily determine the maximum power draw of your CPU and GPU using a very basic Google search. Even Wikipedia has tables that list most of the CPU cores out there, so I find it to be a good reference. The six core CPUs shown below are powerful and consume a lot of power at 100% load. The AMD Thuban 6-core based Phenom II CPUs (left) and the Intel Gulftown 6-core based Core i7 CPUs (right) are rated at a TDP of 125w and 130w respectively according to their manufacturers. Of course, the CPU is not the only component on the motherboard which dissipates power. We should go ahead and allow 75W for the components on the motherboard itself. While this number may vary, 75W is a nice conservative number, and is an adequate ballpark estimate to use when selecting a PSU. Modern GPUs can pull tremendous amounts of power. Some dual GPU cards are rated at almost 400w for their TDP. An Nvidia Titan X is rated at 250w TDP, while an AMD R9 295X, which has two GPUs on one card, has a TDP of 375W!. Again, TDP information is readily available on the web. Type "Nvidia Titan X TDP " or "AMD R9 295X TDP " into Google or Bing and you’ll see what we mean. Do you plan to use two or more GPUs using SLI or CrossFire? If so, multiply your GPU TDP accordingly. Also make sure you count the number of PCIe power connectors you'll need for your graphics card. If you have two cards that each require two PCIe power connectors, a PSU with only two PCIe power connectors isn't going to work unless you use adapters. Most of the other items that go into a computer consume relatively little additional power. Most of these components have a power requirement on their label or you can pull it up on the manufacturer's website. Now take your numbers and add them all up. Since this number is the maximum power requirement of all of your components added up, you're not going to need a PSU that large, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't consider one that large, or larger, if the budget allows. Why? Typically, your power supply's maximum efficiency is between 40% and 60% of it's maximum capability. Have a look at this graph which represents the efficiency of an RM750 from 20% to 100% load: Here we can see that peak efficiency is right at 50% load with just over 90% efficiency with 115VAC mains. Another thing to consider is that you're probably only going to be near full load when you're playing games. Most of the time that you're using your computer, you're going to be around 90 to 120W load for the most part,so you don't want to go too crazy. So using the graph above, we can see that we're about 88.5% efficient at these low loads, which is still better than the 87% efficiency we see at full load. Another thing to consider with Corsair power supplies is when the fan will actually turn on. In a typical 25°C (77°F) room, an RM750's fan will turn on at 40% load (300W). Once there, the fan typically spins at under 700 RPM as long as you're under 60% load (450W). Here's a look at the fan noise curve for the RM750: Now let's say that what we calculated earlier determined that our maximum load is going to be 450W. So do we want a 450W power supply? Let's have a look at the efficiency curve: At 50% and 100% load, the 450W is a more efficient power supply than the 750W at 50% and 100% loads. But at 100% load, the 450W is still less efficient than the 750W. And at 120W, the 450W is only just as efficient as the 750W at 120W. And what about fan noise? The fan in the 450W stays quieter, longer than the 750W's fan, but if we've calculated our maximum load is going to be 450W, our fan is going to be louder than the one in the 750W at everything over 370W. It's not even fanless between 180W and 300W, while the RM750 would still be without fan noise at loads up to 300W. So if I were to select a PSU because I wanted the quietest and most efficient power supply, I'd actually select the 750W. What about the HX, the AX or an AXi, and what about different efficiencies? There's no doubt that Corsair has a number of power supply product lines to choose from. While the RM and HX Series are both 80 Plus Gold rated, on the surface one can consider the RM Series a better choice because it is fully modular while the HX Series are only semi-modular. But the HX is rated at 50°C, as opposed to 40°C, and uses all Japanese capacitors, so the HX is more robust than the RM. It has tighter voltage regulation and a 7 year warranty, as opposed to a 5 year warrranty. So while the RM is a fantastic power supply, the HX is that much better. And why would you want a better power supply? Fortunately, there's a blog post about that! There's also the matter about efficiency. 80 Plus Bronze versus Gold. 80 Plus Gold versus Platinum. Each level of efficiency requires a different degree of efficiency under different load conditions. 80 Plus Gold, for example, means the PSU is at least 87% efficient at 20% load, 90% efficient at 50% load nad 87% efficient at full load. 80 Plus Platinum is 90%, 92% and 89% efficient at 20%, 50% and 100% loads, respectively. While the return on investment is arguable (and I've provided some examples here), when a power supply is more efficient, it not only uses less power from the wall, but it also generates less heat. Less heat means the fan in the power supply doesn't have to run as much or as fast and therefore the power supply is generally quieter. And then there's Link How can you call yourself an uber-nerd if you can't tell me exactly how much power your PSU is putting out while playing Battlefield 4 versus playing Candy Crush Saga? Huh? Well, with Corsair Link you CAN! The Link software monitors and allows some control of various Corsair components. Temperatures and fan speeds can be monitored throughout your PC, as well as the ability to change the colors of little light strips you can stick around the inside of your case. With the RM series of power supplies you can see how fast your fan is spinning and how much juice your +12V rail is putting out (and since the +12V rail is 95% of what your PC uses, you have a pretty good idea of how much power you're using. The AXi power supplies give you a lot more monitoring and control. You can monitor the +12V, +3.3V and +5V, total power out, total power in, the internal temperature of the PSU as well as the speed of the fan. You can even change the speed of the fan. For example: if you allow your PSU fan to always spin, it may not spin as fast at higher loads because you're maintaining air circulation. In conclusion... Hopefully I've shown you today that you can narrow down your power supply choices starting with two criteria: how much total power is the power supply capable of and how loud does it get at different loads? And remember, a larger power supply does NOT mean you're going to use more power, so if the budget allows, you could walk away with something quieter than what a smaller sized PSU can offer. From there you can figure out how efficient you want your power supply to be by considering how much money it's going to save you on your electric bill and how much cooler the power supply is going to run, which can also determine the sound profile of the unit. And don't forget to take into consideration features like modularity and the monitoring ability of the Corsair Link software.
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