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Found 10 results

  1. Hi everyone, Just purchased a new Pre-Built PC and i am having trouble with the Corsair Elite Capellix h100i and with the ICue software. It randomly keeps disconnecting and the lights on the Capellix h100i pump and fans change back to their own colour and in turn not matching the other 7 fans and sometimes even just go dark or no rgb. I have narrowed the problem down to bluetooth. The "Corsair ICue Commander Core" Keeps connecting and then disconnecting randomly in settings/bluetooth and other devices. I sat in settings watching it connect and then disconnect. I am at a lose as to what to do to resolve the problem. I have gone as far as a fresh install of windows and it did nothing. Its very frusrating. I am wondering if it could be a fault with the commander as all other bluetooth devices work fine. If anyone has a possible fix or any information i would greatly appreciate it. Thanks Andy
  2. Recently bought myself a few corsair products including; 5000D Airflow, h100i capellix and some SP120 RGB elites. When plugging the sp120s into the cases RGB controller they do not light up. I have the Capellix plugged into the controller and that lights up fine. The cases controller doesn't show up in ICUE, so not sure if that is the problem. I have tried switching the usb headers but issue still persists. Only way I can get it to work is plugging the fans RGB into a separate lighting node core. Is there anyway to get this working with the cases controller to avoid using a separate one? thanks
  3. Moin, ich will mir Ende diesen Jahres einen 3D Drucker kaufen. Eines der ersten Dinge die ich drucken will ist ein größeres Pinkyrest für die Dark Core RGB SE. Dafür wäre es hilfreich von dem originalen Pinkyrest ein CAD Modell zu haben. Besteht eine Möglichkeit an ein solches Modell zu kommen? Was müsste ich dafür tun, wen müsste ich dafür Fragen, hat irgendwer nee Idee oder nen Vorschlag? Hoffe es kann mir wer von euch helfen.
  4. Auf Grund des schlechten Supports möchte ich gerne hier mein vorliegendes Problem kund tun. Seit Mitte August bin ich mehr oder weniger glücklicher Besitzer der oben stehenden Maus, die anfängliche Begeisterung und Zufriedenheit hielt sich auch bis Dezember, wenn die Maus funktioniert, funktioniert Sie sehr gut. Aber hier sind wir auch schon am Knackpunkt: WENN sie funktioniert... Ich bin Besitzer einem so gut wie kompletten Corsair Setup, angefangen mit einem Corsair Crystal 680x, über den Dominator RGB Ram, dem RM850 Netzteil, der Corsair AIO Wasserkühlung, bis hin zur oben stehenden Maus und einer K95 Tastatur. Ich bin mit sämtlichen Komponenten auch super zufrieden, nur halt mit der Maus nicht... 'Es fing damit an, dass Sie ständig Aussetzer bekommen hat, sprich auf ein mal hat sie keine Eingaben mehr angenommen, wenn man sie dann kurz auf den Tisch geklopft hat ging es wieder... Klang für mich erstmal nach Wackelkontakt also habe ich den Support kontaktiert, nach dem er dann eine Woche später geantwortet hat fing das hin und her an, was ja auch okay ist, aber defintiv nicht okay ist, dass sich dies über einen Monat hingezogen hat und mittlerweile immer mehr an der Maus ausfällt und keine Lösung mit dem Support in Sicht ist! Nach dem ich mein Problem geschildert habe, kamen Lösungsvorschläge via Software, obwohl es sich hier für mich ganz offensichtlich um ein Hardwaredefekt handelt... Dazu hinzu kam dann parallel, dass der Akku tierisch heiß wurde beim Laden über das Induktionsladen und ich die Maus während dem Laden übers Kabel nicht verwenden konnte, weil sie schlichtweg einfach nicht mehr funktioniert hat. Dazu hinzu kam nun gestern, dass das Mausrad im Minutentakt aussetzt und schlichtweg auch nicht mehr richtig funktioniert. Also bleibt mir nun nur noch abschließend zu sagen: Leute Finger weg von der Maus! Bei einer so teuren Maus kann man vom Support erwarten, dass bei offensichtlich technischem Defekt zeitnah eine Lösung in Form von Rückgabe oder Ersatz gefunden wird und man nicht Tage lang auf eine nicht zufrieden stellende Antwort warten muss. Hoffentlich liest jemand der mir weiterhelfen kann diesen Beitrag und sorgt für Abhilfe, auf meine letzten Bitten um Ersatz oder Rückgabe wurde ja leider nicht eingegangen von dem Support. Obwohl ich noch im Garantiezeitraum bin.
  5. I'm preparing to purchase some QL 140's for my case; a particular seller is heavily discounting single-pack 140's, so I can't get the Lighting Node CORE if I buy all six fans from the same merchant. My question is, if I buy a loose Lighting Node from another seller, are the QL fans only compatible with the Node CORE that comes in the two-pack, or can they function and be controlled via iCUE using the older Node PRO? If the Node PRO works, are there disadvantages in terms of controls and features? I just want to make an educated purchasing decision, is all.
  6. Moin, vor kurzem hab ich eine Corsair Dark Core RGB PRO SE auf Amazon gekauft. Leider quietscht das Mausrad beim scrollen. Das ist nicht die Haptik und Qualität die ich mir für den Preis erhofft hatte. Wie kann ich das quietschen am besten abstellen? Garantie? Mit freundlichem Gruß
  7. Servus an alle, ich habe heute 2x QL140 und 1x QL120 im Gehäuse verbaut und diese ordentlich mit dem Lighting Node Core verkabelt. Sata Power angeschlossen, USB an mein internes USB Hub angeschlossen, da ich keine freien USB Plätze auf dem MB übrig hatte (Habe 2 verfügbar, an einem hängt Lighting Node Pro für die RGB Strips, am anderen das Hub mit 2 Plätzen, an dem 1x H115i Platinum und 1x Lighting Node Core hängt). Leider wird der Lighting Node Core nicht von der iCue Software erkannt. Die Fans sind beleuchtet und drehen sich alle, jedoch tauchen sie nicht im Interface auf. Windows an sich erkennt Lighting Node Core als USB Gerät jedoch und listet es unter "Geräte" in den Windows Einstellungen auf. Das gleiche Problem hatte ich schon mit dem Lighting Node Pro, der sich auch nicht mit iCue verbunden hat, wenn ich ihn am USB Hub hängen ließ. Deshalb musste ich den ans MB direkt hängen. Leider fällt die Lösung für den Core flach, da absolut nichts mehr frei ist. H115i hängt am Hub und wird fehlerfrei von iCue erkannt. Was kann ich jetzt machen? Ich weiß, dass das Hub in Ordnung ist und mit dem Core ist auch alles in Butter, sonst würden die QLs nicht leuchten. Ich weiß einfach nicht weiter. Wenn ich was vergessen habe, bitte einfach fragen. MfG Exony
  8. Buenas noches, acabo de comprar el raton corsair dark core rgb se y resulta que al activar el modo inalambrico 2.4GHz no recibe bien la señal. Aun conectando el receptor cerca no puedo alejar el raton a mas de 10 cm del mismo por que directamente no lo detecta. He probado actualizando el ratón desde el cue pero aun así no funciona bien. Hay algún detalle que este dejando de lado como interferencias o algo? como puedo solucionar este problema? Saludos!
  9. Hello, This is my second day of owning my new keyboard (K70 LUX; blue keys) and wireless mouse (Dark Core Qi.) I've run into a bunch of issues since day one testing and day two and are wondering if there are any fixes out there- if not, what can I do to get a refund or replacement. In advance- thanks for the help! How they are connected: Motherboard- MSI Z170A PC MATE BIOS- American Megatrends Inc. A.70, 1/25/2016 USB: The keyboard's both USB are connected in the rear of the PC to a 3.1 GEN 1 USB. The mouse's wireless dongle is connected through the charge cable to extend the receiver to the desk for the best possible connection as well as easy access to unplug the dongle. This cable is connected to the back of the PC to a 3.1 GEN 2 USB. When referencing a problem with a solution that you may have- you can use the numbers I've listed for each problem for the ease of writing. So that each person reading can see what fix goes to what problem. Firmware: K70- 2.05 Dark Core- 3.08 Issues: 1- (K70) The K70 will constantly freeze up. Doesn't matter if I'm in game or not. When the keyboard freezes up in game, it freezes the game and the computer for at least a full minute before either I have to force close the program or I'm kicked with an internet connection error. If the keyboard freezes up while using a browser- I can still type but the caps lock and num-lock keys won't work. I've done some searching around and have found that I have to either manually disconnect the USB and reconnect to reset the keyboard or I have to flip the bios switches constantly to reload the keyboard. 2- (K70) The scroll wheel at the top right for volume only does increments of 2. Is this normal? Wondering if increments of 1 is something the scroll wheel can't do. 3- (Dark Core) The very first time I plugged the mouse in- I've only intended to use the wired USB connection. However, I found out that it would constantly freeze up. (about every 3-5 minutes) Freezing up as in it won't take any movement nor would the buttons work. I've tried unplugging and plugging the cable back in, it wouldn't work. I've tried turning the mouse off and back on with the switch on the bottom while it was connected. Didn't work. I tried disconnecting the mouse and then turning it off and back on; then connecting it back. Didn't work. Only when I unplugged the USB, unplugged the mouse, turned the mouse off, plug the mouse back, plug the USB back, then turn on the mouse, it would work. So I gave up on a wired connection. Which leads to problem 4. 4- (Dark Core) Now being forced to use the wireless 2.4GHz setting, I'd have the exact problem. However; instead of it freezing every 3-5 minutes, it'd be every 1hr+. The only way to un-freeze it is to turn off the mouse from the switch, unplug the wireless USB dongle, re-plug the USB back in, then turn on the mouse. 5- (Dark Core) After having to use the mouse for two days on a wireless connection; it's time to charge. The mouse died while my battery in my tray still said it had medium battery levels. I didn't know it died until I tried to plug the mouse back in the way I described in problem 4. Only to find out that the tray icon quickly went from medium level to no battery left. So I then grabbed the USB cable again unplugged the wireless USB dongle. I plugged the mouse to start charging while I try to use it on USB connection. It quickly froze up again, this time being no more than a minute. I did my usual steps from problem 3 to find that every time I did that- the mouse would freeze up faster. From 1 minute to 30 seconds to 10 seconds to finally not turning on anymore. So I thought maybe the mouse can't be used while charging. It then died fully as to not turn on at all. I then again did a restart like in problem 3 to reset the mouse except I left it in the off switch mode while connecting everything back. Now there is a little green light in the first DPI light slots. It was fading in and out and now it's frozen to just green. I figured that maybe it's frozen up while charging. So I did the same reset process again to find out it would just freeze up in a few seconds. After leaving it to charge while the green light was frozen. I turned it on again after a few hours to see if it charged up even with the light frozen. It did turn on with the RGB so I reconnected the wireless dongle back and immediately looked at the battery status. It said it was critically low, so then I turned it off and re-plugged the charging cable back into it to see that the one green light blinked a few seconds before filling the entire 3 DPI lights with green. I believe it's telling me it's fully charged. Then I took it off to try again with the wireless connection and checked the status of the battery one more time; status high. There's also a slight warm patch underneath the mouse towards the bottom of the sensor while charging. 6- (Dark Core) This is more info for problems 3,4, and 5. During problem 3 and 4 the RGB would not freeze up. It would constantly change as I've set it to. For problems 3 and 4, I noticed the in the iCUE, there would be a yellow triangle next to the mouse icon on the top bar. It would show up for a short moment; like 3 seconds, to only disappear again for a good approximate 5 minutes. In problem 5 I mentioned that there is a patch of warmth underneath the mouse. This would part of the mouse would also be warm when it is connected through USB and wireless. The warm is as warm as a normal warm breathe in your hand. I image this temperature to be normal due to the RGB. However touching my back up mouse with white led- it's room temperature all around. 7- (Dark Core) The mouse will sometimes jump to the edge of the screen. It would randomly be any where, as long as it was the edge. In example; the top right or top left, to mid right or left, and to bottom right and left ect. As you can tell- when this randomly happens; forcing my mouse into a random spot on the screen, jerking my character around, can be very negative to gaming sessions. It could result into accidentally killing an ally to losing constantly in games. I've also tried the Bluetooth setting with the same result. 8- (Dark Core) When holding the aim button down (secondary mouse button) it will sometimes jump out of aim like if I was to let go of the button but then quickly jump back into aim after doing a quick back and forth for half a second. 9- (Dark Core) The secondary mouse button- when pressed will sometimes pinch my ring finger due to the button over hanging past the pinkie wing rest. I imagine this is something that can't be changed but I feel should be noted as feedback to help further mice generations. 10- (Dark Core) When restarting the mouse- I'd have to click the DPI buttons on the mouse back and forth to reset the DPI settings to what I had them saved through the iCUE. Otherwise, the first DPI setting the mouse would start with is the default 800. (I saved my first DPI setting to 1000) 11- (Dark Core) The DPI keeps changing randomly. From preset one to preset two to three. It also changes the preset number to the default on it's own now. I'll have to go into iCUE to change it back to what I want. I have noticed that when installing new drivers for video- iCUE will crash and re-opening the program will fix it. This problem is very rare and only has happen at least approximately 4 times. EXTRA INFO REGARDING ALL PROBLEMS: The K70 LUX and the Dark Core Qi have been forced to update the latest firmware update as it came with the latest firmware already installed. I'm using the latest firmware for iCUE as of 9/1/2018 (3.6.109_release.) Thanks for reading all the way through and thanks again for all the helpful replies. I really hope there is a fix for these problems as I'm not looking for a quick patch to only find that the problem will continue again. The keyboard and mouse are by far the best looking combo on the market and I've already begone to enjoy the improvement of my gaming performance while using these wonderful devices as these are my first gaming peripherals. So if the problems can't be fixed; I'd have to kindly ask for the first step in getting a refund for my purchase. Thanks again!
  10. In the last edition of this ongoing blog series we introduced this project and went over budget concerns for planning your build, you can find it here. Selecting Components: CPU When building a system, it is a good idea to start by choosing which CPU you want to use and then building around it. Intel versus AMDThe debate rages on today, and probably will continue for years to come. This is actually a great thing since it forces both companies to innovate and find new ways to add features and increase performance in order to stay competitive with each other. There are typically certain price ranges you can expect any generation of CPU to fall within. With the new "Skylake" 6th Generation Intel Core processor family you can expect to pay anywhere from $129 to $1069. The latest generation AMD FX AM3+ socket CPUs range from $99.99 to $299.99. The sweet spot for most builders is going to be in the $150 – $300 price range. This is usually where you can get the best "bang for your buck." Most CPUs which cost over ~$300 are going to cost a lot more per % of increased performance, which means that you might be better off spending that extra money towards upgrading something else in your build, such as your graphics card, a mechanical keyboard, or a larger monitor. Most CPUs which cost under ~$150 will often have less than optimal thermal and over-clocking characteristics, and may not be as good in the long run; especially if you think you might get your feet wet with overclocking. When it comes to CPUs there are a few ways you can compare their performance characteristics on paper, the one everyone is likely familiar with is the CPU frequency, or clock speed. CPU frequency is actually stated in two values with modern CPU, In "Max Base Frequency" and "Max Turbo Frequency" (in GHz). In addition to the speed of the CPU, you should also compare the number of cores, thermal design power (TDP) and Cache (L1, L2, and L3). On paper, you won’t always get the most accurate picture of performance, so you will also need to look at some real world benchmarks in order to get a tangible idea of how any two CPUs compare. There are hundreds, if not thousands of reviewer sites that will present this information to you. Below is a sample of a comparison of current CPUs that I grabbed from Tom's Hardware which is an excellent resource for system builders and hardware enthusiasts. Max Base Frequency: This is the clock speed of your CPU when it is operating under a typical load. Max "Turbo" Frequency: Both AMD and Intel CPUs have a built in performance mechanism which will increase the CPU frequency when it is under heavy load. Cores: How many CPU cores the chip has. More cores means you have more multi-tasking power, but as time goes on and software gets smarter about utilizing multiple cores more efficiently, increased numbers of cores on a chip become even more attractive. L1, L2 and L3 Cache: CPU Cache (the "L" stands for "Level") is the amount of data that can be stored temporarily on the CPU, while it’s waiting to be processed. Common CPU instructions will be stored within the various CPU cache levels to greatly reduce any delay in processing data. This is similar to how memory works, however cache memory is integrated directly into modern CPUs and is capable of responding to and delivering data much faster than the systems RAM (Random Access Memory). TDP (Thermal Design Power): This is the amount of power the CPU is expected to use when it is operating within a typical real world environment. This is not a maximum operating temp, but more of an indication of how much power the CPU will use and how hot it will get. Keep in mind that any overclocking of the CPU will increase CPU heat, and will likely require an aftermarket CPU cooler. In the next post, we will cover the things you should know when picking out your motherboard.
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