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About Me



Optical Drive # 1







Found 7 results

  1. Hi there, I currently own a Corsair Vengeance 1300 and the Void Pro USB Surround and up until very recently I still had the Vengeance 2000. I noticed a while back that there was some black matter shedding and falling inside my ears and it turned out to be the faux leather cover of the 2000. Sadly, in trying to clean them up (mostly the headband), they ended up destroyed. It turns out the plastic of the band got pretty fragile with time. Now, the 1300 are still operational but in their current state, they are quite disgusting to be honest... I grated most of that stuff off but it just seems to keep coming out! Had to wrap the headband in something to prevent it from getting those residues from falling all over the place. The ear pads are the same, but those I can't wrap. With the Void Pro I was very happy to see that the faux leather was mostly gone. Sadly, I just noticed that the section that secures the pads to the headset is starting to shed too, mostly inside the cup which isn't great since it tends to deposit inside my ears. Now, I'm trying to prevent the destruction of more headphones in order to keep them clean so I'm looking for advice. Do you have tips on how to keep the headband and earpads clean for the Void Pro? Is there any way to get replacement parts for the 1300 and Void Pro? Also, since I'm at it, are there instructions on how to fix the microphone from falling down? Its a big issue on the 1300 and its getting to be one with the Void Pro. Thanks for any help!
  2. Hi all, Looking to upgrade to the Void Pro Wireless, and was hoping to sell my old headset to help recoup some of the cost. However, after about a year of gaming on them, they foam padding along the top and the ear cups have acquired a scent. It's not a horribly strong smell or anything, but it's enough that I personally wouldn't buy them. So, I can take the ear cups off easily and give them a little hand wash with some detergent, worked great and now smells like fresh laundry. The issue is with the top headband, it doesn't seem like it's possible to remove, and I don't want to just soak the whole top of the headset. Does anyone have any pointers or anything for cleaning the foam headband?? Thanks, -Bodom
  3. The best suggest I've read is: Use hot distilled water with vinegar and shake vigorously, and repeat 4 times, to be sure. But I've seen no recommended stuff from CORSAIR for how to clean radiator, I've sent them a ticket for asking, but no reply yet, but it is understandable why it takes time. _______________________________________________ This was the reply I got from CORSAIR: Thanks for reaching out to us. As long as its white Vinegar you would be good to go. I usually use a 3:1 distilled water to white vinegar mix because its a bit more gentle that way. It takes more cycles but it isn't as hard on the copper. It is always a good idea to do a flush of the other parts with distilled before use. They are cleaned before packaging but it is good practice just in case anything got missed.
  4. Hey gang, this may be common knowledge, but it wasn't something that was apparent to me even after looking through this forum. After putting together my loop, I apparently did a poor job cleaning off the shavings from my acrylic tubing. This meant that those pieces would get loose in the loop and ultimately get stuck in the fins of my GPU. This was driving me nuts, as I could actually see the bits and pieces stuck against the fins, and paranoid me was feeling like it was disrupting the flow of coolant throughout my system. I never knew just how much you see every little imperfection when you put together a loop, and simply can't keep your hands off of it; but I digress. I searched for videos on cleaning the inside of an XG7 but came away a bit intimidated. I know I'll eventually need to take the whole block apart for a deep cleaning down the road, but I just needed to clean the fins at this point. The video by Bit-Tech does a great job doing tear-downs of the Hydro X system, but of course they sped up the section of video where they took apart the XG7. But even from the speed-run, it looked a bit complex with a ton of tiny screws. [ame= ] [/ame] Then I stumbled on a video by JayzTwoCents where he does an overview of the Hydro X system, and he made note of the fact that the fin array appeared to not be directly machined into the block, but was actually secured with 8 screws. [ame= ] [/ame] With this I took my GPU out of the system and separated the XG7 from the GPU to investigate. And it turns out that the fin array is indeed not built into the block, but secured using 8 screws after all. This means that the fin array itself is removable from the block. All you have to do is remove the GPU from the block, remove the 8 screws directly behind the fin array, and the fin array will just fall out. From there I scrubbed it with a toothbrush and rinsed it with distilled water. Installing it back couldn't be simpler either: simply reinstall the 8 screws and reinstall the GPU. You will need to clean the thermal paste and reapply it, so make sure you have that handy before you start taking it apart. To be safe, take note of the tension applied to the screws when you remove them so you can install them at that level of tension again. There's an O-ring in there that seals the deal, so a snug fit is needed, but I would probably avoid over-tightening. I would also avoid fully tightening the screws until all of them are seated, and proceed to tighten in a star pattern to make sure you get even pressure across the plate. I'm not sure if Corsair designed the block this way because 1) it's cheaper to manufacture it this way than to build it into a solid block, 2) they anticipated that people would need to get in there to clean/replace the fins, or 3) both. All the same, I'm glad I found this out and wanted to get this information out there in case it helps another noob like myself. TLDR: The fin array in the XG7 is not built into the block, but can be extracted for cleaning by removing the 8 conveniently located screws directly behind it.
  5. Hi all, I have a new K65 RGB Lux. One thing I noticed about this keyboard is that the keycaps smudge easily and can look pretty gross under the florescent lighting at my office after a while. What's the best way to clean them? I just want to wipe them down, I don't feel like pulling all the keys and so on. They look gross literally on a daily basis. I've tried a few things, such as water, soapy water, and glasses cleaner using a microfiber cloth or brush. Those work but the surface still seems smudged afterwards. Thanks in advance for any advice you have. Rich
  6. My handrest is partly filled with some white dots. (PIC) Here are some methods that I have tried and none of them have worked. -Warm water -Rubbing Alcohol -Wet Wipes I would appreciate some pro tips.
  7. Hey. I made a little profile for all of you using the nordic [ND] layout of the Strafe RGB keyboard. What it does is that it disables all the mechanical keys, as well as sets the backlight to white, to ease the cleaning of the keyboard. Since all keys are disabled, the only way to activate the profile is through CUE, which eliminates accidental switching to and from the profile. I don't know if a profile like this has been made before, I did search and found nothing, so for you who managed to find mine in hope of a cleaning mode, here's one for you. CleaningMode.cueprofile
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