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About Me



Optical Drive # 1







Found 11 results

  1. Hi All, Apologies if there is already a thread addressing this - I searched but couldn't find anything relevant. I'm new to Corsair cases and am just getting prepped for a build. I've got the Carbide 678c ready to go, but I'm looking to install a 360mm AIO in the top and it seems to require removing the Optical tray to get that done. There doesn't however, to my eyes, seem to be a way to remove the tray and it isn't mentioned in the manual at all. All of the HDD trays are easy to move around so I assumed the ODD tray would be similar in nature. If anyone has any insight they can share - I'd greatly appreciate the help. I've seen some images online of people who've fit 360mm AIOs online - but this optical tray is really tripping me up. Thanks in advance for any help.
  2. Hi guys, I'm looking for a RGB front panel logo plate for the Carbide 175r case. Are they available anywhere? Thanks
  3. Greetings to anyone reading this! So I have a few questions about the 275R, I'm currently looking at it to switch from my current 460X mainly due to cable management on the shroud which the 460X lacks (unless you count the one weird opening on the shroud). So onto the questions. 1) Recently picked up an EVGA GTX 1080 FTW Hybrid and would like to vertically mount the card, is Corsair going to be selling PCI riser card in the future? If not, any recommendations on a riser card? I'm keen on the Fractal Design Flex riser card. Also would the Hybrid card be fine with temperatures since most of the cooling is done through the AIO? 2) Did some searching and found this product listed https://www.corsair.com/ww/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/PC-Components/Cases/Carbide-275R-GPU-Support-Bracket%2C-Black/p/CC-8900230 Not sure if this has been mentioned but looks like Corsair will sell this at some point, does anyone have any info on it? 3)The white underglow on the front panel can it be unplugged? So that's basically my questions concerning the 275R, I may be downgrading from the 460X to the 275R but cable management is a headache in the 460X, I wish Corsair would revise the case at some point. Thanks for taking the time to read this and to my US pals, have a happy 4th of July!
  4. Hello ! I've broken the tempered glass. I tried to buy a new one, but isn't available in France. Do you have some in stock ? Or can I buy a tempered glass from an other model ? Thanks ! 😄
  5. Hello everyone! I assembled a PC using a Corsair Carbide 100R case and 5x 120x120x25mm 1800 rpm fans. For a fan label error, however, I mounted the fans in an inverted way compared to what I wanted: DESIRED ORDER: 2 front intake, 2 top exhaust, 1 rear exhaust ORDER OBTAINED (BY ERROR): 2 front exhaust, 2 top intake, 1 rear intake I could obviously fix the problem with a minimum of patience and work, but I was wondering out of curiosity: what negative effect would I have in terms of cooling (especially as regards the CPU, MAINBOARD and SSD)? The system configuration is: Intel i3-8100 CPU with HSF stock RAM Corsair Vengeance LPX (2x8GB) DDR4 SSD Crucial MX500 SATA / 6G (mounted on the top/first zero-tool bracket) MAINBOARD Asus H310M-R R2.0 (a MicroATX budget mainboard with only one passive heatsink on the PCH) I use the integrated video of the CPU and therefore I don't have any discrete PCI Express video card installed. The order of the cables is decent/sufficient. Thanks to those who will give me useful opinions. -- EnigMAUS75
  6. I ordered the Carbide 275R from Amazon, but it didn't come with the accessory kit. I saw another thread from someone who had the same issue, and they were able to purchase the accessory kit on Corsair's website. However, I live in the UK, and in the UK store the accessory kits are out of stock. So I'm resorting to this. Does anyone recommend any replacement screws for the Carbide 275R for securing the motherboard? I've looked everywhere but I can't find the screw size for them. If it helps, the accessory kit it uses is the Carbide 270R one. Thanks.
  7. Hello all. I am building a PC soon, and looking at the Carbide 275R. I will be using the Hydro H100i V2 cooler with the 240mm radiator. I have recently read (fortunately before ordering) that I won't be able to mount the radiator at the top of this case due to clearance issues with the RAM? I have just received the Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 3200 16GB. But this is quite tall for RAM, so I assuming I will definitely have a problem? I haven't opened the RAM so can return it no problem at all. Will the Vengeance LPX fit instead as this appears to be a lower profile? Thanks in advance for any advice.
  8. Hello everyone, I'm looking for some advice because I'm going to buy a Carbide 400C case, and I've chosen NZXT kraken x62 for my I7 8700k. (after doing a lot of research, if you have other recommendation would be great to hear) So, some questions: 1) Does the X62 fits well in the 400C? I'm planning to mount it in the front of the case. (Fans between the case and the radiator, as seen in the pic below): 2) I'm planning to install 2 140mm fans on the top, and 120MM in the rear. Which fans would you recommend to me? This is my pick, unless you have a better suggestion: 140MM x2: https://www.coolblue.nl/product/800650/corsair-hd140-rgb-led-double-pack.html 120MM: https://www.coolblue.nl/product/800650/corsair-hd140-rgb-led-double-pack.html 3) Do I need to buy a board like commander pro? Or can I just connect the fans to my motherboard (Asus Z370A)? I don't have experience setting up multiple rgb fans. Thanks in advance for the advice :)
  9. Hi all, again with stupid question but now the confusing part is delivered by ... corsair and two pages: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2015/april/corsair-hydro-series-cpu-cooler-decoder-ring-and-case-compatibility-chart According to this one Carbide Air 240 should be able to take 280 cooler solution (there is Corsair Hydro Series H110i GT mentioned). ok I have "smaller" H115i ... then I check product site and we have this: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/carbide-series-air-240-arctic-white-high-airflow-micro-atx-and-mini-itx-pc-case where there is not mentioned H115I or H110i GT (and the max is H100i, H105) what is the answer ? will it fit or not. Note: I have everything - case (new) - too big gtx (will check if it fit) - cooling solution 2x140 steps to be done : buy mobo but not sure if I should stick to my old case (and follow ATX) or this fancy super looking Carbide Air 240 (with mATX) Note: I cannot check it by myself as it's used in server 24/7 solution. Please help me with the cooler information !:)
  10. Selecting a chassis for your system is an often underrated part of the building experience, but if you’re here, chances are you’re looking for more than just a big steel box to house all your shiny new hardware. While a few years ago that would’ve been the plan, these days you have a lot more options, and the chassis you choose for your build can actually help define the components you’re going to use instead of the other way around. Many builders underestimate the importance of a good enclosure; a quality case is something that can last you for a long time, can make building and servicing the machine a lot easier, and can even have an impact on your system’s performance. If a system is deprived of air or prone to dust build up (thus becoming deprived of air), heat can cause your processor or graphics card to throttle. A case with good airflow and smart dust filter application can improve part longevity and potentially increase performance headroom while being easier to maintain. The Carbide 300R is a solid entry level ATX enclosure. When selecting a case, it helps to understand what your goals are. For a standard ATX build, the common wisdom is: price, performance, silence…pick two. If you’re concerned about getting something more affordable, you’ll need to decide whether you want a system that has headroom for overclocking and/or high performance graphics hardware and thus generates more noise as a result of the increased need for cooling capacity, or you can run your CPU at stock or with a mild overclock and use a more mainstream graphics card and run a quieter case. After a certain price point (typically around $150-$160) it becomes reasonable to expect a case to be both quiet and very thermally efficient. To illustrate this point, on the silent side we have the Carbide 330R and the larger, roomier Obsidian 550D. Both cases have solid thermal performance, but you’ll want to choose your components carefully to take advantage of their noise dampening characteristics. Silent cases don’t make loud components quiet, but they can easily muffle the noise from more modest hardware. Meanwhile, if you want to emphasize thermal performance, the Carbide 400R, 500R, and especially the Air 540 will be more your speed. Finally, if you’re willing to spend up, the Obsidian 750D is capable of producing excellent thermal performance with minimal noise. The Obsidian 350D's Micro-ATX form factor is still more than enough for all but the most demanding builds. The other consideration is what form factor you want to work with. If you’re fine with garden variety ATX, my recommendations above apply, but if you’re looking to color a little bit outside the lines, there are other options. Mini-ITX is a form factor that’s increasing in popularity, but it restricts you to only a single expansion slot, ruling out any multi-GPU systems, and it can be harder to build in. Micro-ATX is actually probably acceptable for most users these days; a case like the Corsair Obsidian 350D is large enough to be easy to use and can support dual graphics cards with proper spacing, but is going to be smaller than most cases. If you want a more modestly sized build but aren’t willing to sacrifice functionality, Micro-ATX and the 350D are going to be the way to go. On the flipside, if you’re of the “go big or go home” mentality, something like the 900D has a certain appeal for users who want the biggest, baddest case they can find. The Vengeance C70 has a military-style flair to go with its powerful air cooling performance. Of course, none of this really takes style into account. Part of the fun of building a machine can be picking out an enclosure that reflects your tastes, something that’s distinctive. A Corsair Link lighting kit with a windowed case can add some custom bling to your build, but cases like the Carbide Air 540 and Vengeance C70 stand out in their own ways and might spark your imagination. Even though I’m pitching at freshman grade builds and watercooling is more a varsity level hobby, it can be fun to take a case like the 750D or 900D and really trick it out with a custom cooling loop, and there are good guides available out there if you know where to look. Finally, if you're looking for a silent enclosure, the Obsidian 550D and Carbide 330R both come with sound dampening material on the sides. This material won't make a loud component quiet, but it will make a quiet component virtually inaudible. Alternatively, you can look for a case that comes with a built in fan controller that will give you a broader range of performance; silence when you want it, airflow when you need it. The Graphite 760T can be a little pricey, but it's a sturdy chassis loaded to the gills with features that make assembly and servicing it a breeze, and it looks great to boot. Ultimately, the case tends to be one of two places users will cut corners on their budget (the other being the power supply), but you can actually lose system performance this way if you’re not careful. As with every other component in your build, a good case is an investment. Spending up on a case that includes dust filters will make the computer much easier to maintain; grommets and mounting holes in the motherboard tray allow for better cable management which in turn makes the interior look nicer but also substantially improves airflow. Conveniences like toolless drive sleds and optical drive clamps can not only make the initial assembly much easier, they can make servicing or upgrading the computer later on a breeze. The case is something you’re going to have to listen to, look at, and work with for the life of the computer, so don’t be afraid to stretch your build budget to get the one that’s right for you. It's tempting to want to cut costs on the enclosure and possibly divert that budget elsewhere, but doing so runs the risk of missing out on a lot of the important benefits a good case (especially a good Corsair case) can bring to the table. Suddenly you're dealing with a case that's harder to build in, harder to use, maybe less attractive, more accident or damage prone...any number of long term issues. Every aspect of a new build is an investment, case included, and I've learned through a lot of unpleasant experiences that sometimes it's just better to buy top shelf, buy what you really want from the get go, than go for something that'll "do for the time being" and wind up spending a lot more in the long term.
  11. Building a quality gaming rig doesn't take thousands of dollars if you choose your components carefully. With this in mind I set out to build a gaming rig that could handle any of today's games including Crysis 3 for under $1000. I priced the entire build out on Newegg and came in at $937.92 before tax and shipping. Let's start the build and take a look at the components I chose. I started the build off by installing the Intel Core i5 3275P processor into the Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H motherboard. I chose this processor and not an unlocked K series because I will not be overclocking. It is a quad core 3.1GHz Ivy Bridge processor that will handle anything you throw at it. Next I installed the backplate and standoffs for the Hydro Series H60 CPU cooler. I went with the H60 because I will not be overclocking the processor. If I was going to go with a K series and wanted to overclock I would have used a Hydro Series H80i or a H100i. With the motherboard outside of the case I went ahead and installed our Vengeance 16GB dual channel DDR3 memory Kit (CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10B). I chose that because it allows me to run any current game, and they also match the blue heatsinks on the motherboard. The CX Series Modular CX600M PSU was then installed into the Carbide Series 200R case. I chose this power supply because it is modular which means less clutter and it has plenty of power to run the video card I chose. After installing the I/O shield in the 200R I then installed the motherboard into the case. Then I made all the required power and front panel connections. This included the front panel USB 3.0. With the motherboard installed I could then install the radiator and fan of the H60 to the case and the install the pump head and water block onto the processor. I then plugged the pump and fan into the motherboards fan headers. Next I slid the Neutron Series 128GB SSD into the tooless SSD cage on the 200R, and connected the power and SATA cables. The last component to be installed was the ASUS HD7850 video card. I chose this video card because it has a great bang for buck performance and will be able to handle any of today's games. With the machine built the last thing to do was cable management. The 200R and CX550M included plenty of zip ties to make it look very clean and clutter free. The 200R was very easy to build in and the entire build took me less than 2 hours. This means I have more time for gaming! As a bonus with the video card I received a free copy of Bioshock Infinite and Tomb Raider. Although I am really anxious to see how this thing handles Crysis 3!!
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