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Latharion last won the day on December 2 2014

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  1. You can also do it with a PWM powered hub. Powered hubs plug directly into the PSU so they are not overloading your fan headers. In fact, there is one located on the 5000D. If one were to use a 360mm AIO, combined with the included PWM hub, and a Commander Pro, that would be more than enough PWM headers to do the job. This would give a total of 13 (6 for the PWM hub, 3 for the AIO, and 6-2=4 (due to the hub and AIO) for the Commander Pro).
  2. I finished my custom cooling project recently and the last decision I made for it was whether to use hard tubing or soft tubing. I ended up using soft tubing due to the difference in cost and reliability. Hard tubing looks great, but costs quite a bit more, is more difficult to use, and tends to be less forgiving. Soft tubing costs a bit less, is erm... flexible, and is far more forgiving. For a first time custom project, I would definitely recommend soft tubing. The project can always be converted to hard tubing later with a few alterations (fittings and tubing).
  3. The H150i cannot distinguish one PWM fan from another so it should be able to control the fan speeds of the LL120 fans in exactly the same way as the ML120s. It also should not matter if the RGB aspect is connected to the Lighting Node Pro Hub or not as that aspect is independent of the fan speed control. Perhaps check that the USB cable was reconnected to the motherboard and pump as that is the part that controls the PWM fan speed signals (both the fan speeds and the pump).
  4. Well, the way to figure out total power draw is to determine the amperage of each component, while also noting each components voltage. Multiply amperage of each component by it's voltage to derive the wattage for each component. Add the wattage totals together to find the power needed. The fans listed are .30 amps at 12volts. The XD5 pump/res combos are each 30watts at 12volts (it does not list amps, but just calculate 30/12 to find it). The cores probably don't pull enough power to matter. I do not know what the amperage of the RGB LED strips are. While you are at it, add in the total max wattage of your CPU and GPU (again via amps x volts). Take into account any storage. Spinning hard drives use quite a bit of power.
  5. Here is a link to the Bitspower male-to-mail G 1/4 rotary fitting I used. BP is actually the source for Corsair HydroX fittings and this one matched perfectly.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U3VM42/?coliid=I16HGPERQC86P6&colid=7XBLCKC2JDS3&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it G 1/4 male-to-male adapters are also available in different lengths. I found some that were 5rmm and some that were 20mm and 30mm. Just source the one that meets the spacing need. Rotary fittings are very useful, but not absolutely necessary.
  6. KitGuruTech also does an excellent job of explaining the lack of fins and the reasoning behind it in the review video below. [ame= ] [/ame]
  7. The main reason Corsair doesn't support the EVGA FTW3 cards is they do not follow the reference design. Waterblocks designed specifically for a single card (the 3080 for instance) would not be worth the cost of production vs the return on investment when compared to a design that works for a larger variety of cards. It doesn't seem to be targeted at EVGA specifically. EVGA just tends to make their higher tier cards in a non-standard way.
  8. I've also been on the look-out for some black rubber 10mm/13mm soft tubing. I like the look of the Corsair HydroX gold fittings (that are only available in 10m/13mm), so I've been limiting my search for 10mm/13mm. From what I've been able to find, there is one manufacturer of rubber tubing that offers this size and it seems to be located in Germany. It may be that that manufacturer is unable or unwilling to ship to the NA region. EK does make a black rubber tube that is larger and seems to have a bit of an odd size. EK does sell fittings for it, but they are a bit on the pricey side and are not available in gold. Rubber seems to be preferential due to it's lack of plasticiser (which can leech out into the coolant), and it's very low evaporation rate. Both are great for people who do not desire to or are unable to drain and refill a custom system every few months.
  9. The case mod that allows greater airflow will probably not work with the hx1200 psu plus the drive cage. The drive cage will fit with the psu although in the far left position. There is a mounting point for either 3.5in or 2.5in drives located on the back of the motherboard access tray. From what I can find, Corsair does not sell the SSD trays in the shop. Perhaps try contacting support and see if they will sell you one from there? Also note that SSDs can be mounted using double-sided tape, which means they can be mounted pretty much anywhere you wish. The two slots on the PSU shroud are alternative mounting locations for the three included SSD trays. There is nothing preventing you from using double sided tape and mounting your extra SSD in that location if desired.
  10. Here is a link to the white version of the 5000D airflow front mesh... https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/5000D-AIRFLOW-Front-Airflow-Panel%2C-White/p/CC-8900502 The black version seems to be out of stock though. It seems that the accessories are not listed on the storefront, but are listed when viewing the specific cases (in this instance, the 5000D).
  11. One thing to do is watch some youtube videos on how to bend hard tubing. There are various techniques for doing it, as well as some things to be mindful of. Also purchase extra tubes if the budget allows. Mistakes can, and will happen, even to seasoned pros who have been doing it for years. If you decide to start with soft tubing, there is nothing preventing you from switching to hard tubing in the future. The only extra purchases are the fixtures for hard tubing, and the tubes themselves. The various other hardware will work regardless of how the liquid is delivered to them. Also, leak test before you start the computer. Regardless of hard or soft tubing. Run the pump for at least several hours with the 24-pin connector (or better yet, all of the power connectors) disconnected. If it leaks, let everything dry out, fix the leaks, then repeat until the system does not leak. Nothing in the system will be damaged if no power is being delivered to the system.
  12. Just a question, but are the drivers installed for your motherboard chipset? I noticed on my system that when I first install Windows, iCUE will report my Commander Pro temps as way off, as well as my fan RPM measurements. After installing the specific chipset drivers for my motherboard, the problem disappeared. It could simply be that the specific USB chipset driver for your motherboard is not present or is corrupt.
  13. Here is the link to version 3.20.80... https://downloads.corsair.com/Files/CUE/iCUESetup_3.20.80_release.msi If you want a different version, just replace "iCUESetup_3.20.80_release.msi" with the version you want.
  14. Have you tried completely removing Link4 completely from your system (including the UsbX driver, and data) and then installing the latest version of iCUE? I don't remember if the latest version included the drivers necessary to run the H100i v2, but it is worth a shot. On a previous build, I used the H100i (first version) and it worked once I installed Link4 and then iCUE, but only in Windows 10. I could never get the software to work correctly in Windows 7 so I resorted to using a different piece of software to control it, which worked fine. If you wish, I can PM you a link to the software in question if you want to give it a try. The developer had an ongoing conflict with Corsair so I'd rather not name it in public, but it does work, so at the very least it can be used as a diagnostic tool.
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