jonnyguru

Not yet. There are engineers following up and throwing emails back and forth, but so far nothing solid. :(: As for "recall": Unfortunately, you don't recall a product because of a design flaw that causes a noise that's irritating to some. You'd recall PSUs that burst into flames, CPU coolers that leak, etc. But not PSUs with fans that occasionally twitch. :(:

I lied. No.. just kidding. The problem may be isolated to a small percentage as opposed to the GS and TX which almost all had this issue. I personally use the AX860i and have never seen this issue (and mine is mounted at the bottom of the case with the fan pointed up, so I would know). At the time I replied, I was not aware that this was a problem and what was causing it. Sorry for the misinformation. :(:

Unfortunately, I have NOT been able to get the proper lot code. The PCN was never actually documented. I've emailed the engineers asking for a solution....

Still waiting.... Hopefully I'll have something soon.

I don't have the lot numbers yet. I'll post when I have them. FYI: The first four numbers of your serial number is the manufacture date (i.e. "lot code").

Yeah.... not really a restriction. More like an oversight. The PM at the time didn't think to add it as a feature and adding it would have added to the cost, soooo..... I hear the next digital solutions may allow it, but that who knows when that's coming along and it doesn't help you now.

Yeah.. they'll fight #2. And this is something that "should" be fixed with firmware, but they didn't allow for any way for users to flash firmware via I2C or USB. :(: I'd stick with #1, but wait for me to get lot codes first. :D:

Well... I wouldn't call it damage. It's a laquer laminate coating that all magnetics get. It's not a poor design choice as much as it's a poor choice for this design. The fan is an off the shelf model and this behavior, as opposed to having a Zero RPM mode, is normal for it. In other words: the fan was never designed to have a Zero RPM mode and still receive power so its logic still functions.

It's a VERY light push. The audible click is from the fan motors lamination (the surface they put on the motor's coils). When the PSU was brand new, the lamination had pretty good seal, but after a few days of use, high temperatures and constantly being nudged every 10 seconds, the lamination degraded enough to start making the clicking noise. Yeah... if you have a lot number, that'll be great.

So.... the problem is that the fan "checks itself before it wrecks itself".... to make sure there isn't something blocking the fan, it gives itself a little kick and if it moves, even a little bit, it says "I'm good". If it doesn't move, it assumes there's something stuck in the fan and the PSU will actually shut down. Obviously this is a good feature for if your fan fails, but it's a nuisance when the fan is supposed to be altogether off. So in later revisions of the AXi, they removed delivering any power to the fan at lower loads. If the fan isn't supposed to spin, it doesn't bother to check to see if the fan is spinning. If the fan is supposed to spin and it doesn't, then it will do the check and if it fails, it'll shut off the PSU. I'm getting the lot codes for when the change to the PSU's circuitry was changed from the former to the latter. Stay tuned.

Please read the entire thread. We've gone around and around with this already. And modern PSUs do not have bleed resistors. And LEDs require very little power, so a motherboard CAN hold enough of a charge to keep them lit.

There's still something horribly wrong then. We can make sure that the charge is in the motherboard by disconnecting everything else from the motherboard (i.e. only have the PSU, motherboard and a fan plugged into a fan header), and if the LEDs still stay lit, then we know with 100% certainty that the motherboard is what's live... but that's still not right. A motherboard shouldn't be holding that much of a charge for that long.

Ok. Then if the fans are plugged into the fan controller and the fan controller isn't plugged into the motherboard, it's hard to believe the fans say lit. If the PSU is still plugged into the motherboard, I can see maybe some power coming back from the motherboard, through the PSU and then into the fan controller, but that's quite a stretch. So if the fans are plugged into the fan controller and you unplug the 24-pin from the motherboard, the fan LEDs go out?

I thought you plugged the fans directly into the PSU, using Molex (adapters?) and the LEDs stayed on. Is this not correct? You did this with the fan controller as well. Is the fan controller hooked up to the motherboard somehow?

We already went there. ;): The answer was no. There's nothing powered plugged into the motherboard's USB, etc. But good question just the same.

Yeah... AdzUK tried the fans with the PSU plugged into the motherboard, fan controller and directly into the PSU... so that ship is sailed. But I know exactly what you're talking about. I see it all of the time. The caps on the motherboard hold a charge for a while and the LEDs stay lit up, but even those eventually go out. AdzUK was having his LEDs stay lit for a long time, which means that the charge of the primary capacitor in the PSU was somehow leaking over to the secondary side caps and keeping them charged, thus keeping the fan LEDs lit. I can't wait to get my hands on this thing. :p:

Ok.. well, I just had a chance to play with it just now. I had two fans. One Antec and one bitFenix. Both of them, the LEDs fade out fairly quickly. About the time the fan blades stop spinning from momentum, those LEDs were out. So definitely get an RMA and let me know if/how I can help that along.

Well.. keep in mind that if it's just another Corsair PSU and not the same make/model, it may not do it. For example: I tested an RM1000 and an AX860i and while the AX860i had a higher voltage on the +12V after it shut down, it didn't stay live as long as the RM1000. I got really busy today so I didn't have a chance to check on this, but I promise I will tomorrow. And by all means, feel free to an advanced RMA next week if you want to. And remember to PM me the ticket number because if we do find that this is anomaly, I want to get my hands on this PSU of yours to find out exactly what the anomaly is. You've got all of the engineers I've talked to stumped. ;):

Also considering the only contribution this particular user has provided in this entire forum has been to troll me in this thread. Look... customer service isn't my "position". I help out here because I want to and I feel I can contribute since I've been into PSUs for about... 12 years or so? So if I'm going to get trolled for doing so, I feel within my right to "poke back" or all of the fun is going to get sucked out of it. ;): :stickpoke I do like the stick poke.

I haven't checked on mine yet. After my last post, I went home and chugged a bunch of beers to forget about the forum trolls. I'll let you know what I find out once I get back on track this morning. :D:

Yes... it's finally going somewhere by..... going down the same path we've been going down all along?!? :stickpoke

You should. Like I said before, here I'm getting 0.4V on the +12V after the PSU is off. Wasn't sure that was enough to keep an LED lit and I don't know if your voltage is actually higher, but without a DMM we'll never know. But if I can get an LED to light up with only 0.4V and stay lit up, then we're on to something.

Ok.. So now that you've duplicated it with a Bit Fenix fan as well (albeit not as bright), I'm just going to grab a handful of LED fans and see what I come across. I'll report back soon!

So the PSU here held a charge for quite a while, but that was with no load at all. I can't get those fans here in the states and I hesitate to use a different LED fan because the efficiency of the LEDs can differ. Any load I put on the PSU drains the test PSU almost immediately. If the behavior you're seeing is normal, then clearly the LEDs used in the Aerocool fans are quite unique as they're operating at a very low voltage (assuming the voltage on you +12V is as low as mine.... which we can't determine until you get your hands on a DMM). The other thought was that the primary cap was somehow charging the secondary caps while the PSU is off, which shouldn't happen. So if that was happening, it would certainly be a defective PSU. But the PSU would have failed hi-pot at the factory and multiple failures would have to take place within the PSU (problem with PS ON lead and Power Good signal, bad solder, etc. all at the same time) which isn't impossible, but the odds of having so many failures happen all at the same time in such a way to where the LEDs of the fans staying on is the only symptom. Bizarre at best. At this juncture, I'm stuck. We know the caps hold a low voltage charge, but I can't get those fans to test to see how long they can stay lit. You don't have a DMM to see what the voltage output is after your PSU is off. If the primary side caps are bleeding power over to the secondary side, we could have a potential PSU fault, but again without a DMM we just don't know. As LazyBoyQuan pointed out, the cables are interchangeable with all current, fully modular PSUs, so you can do a swap without pulling all of your cables. So worst case scenario, try to get an advanced replacement, and just swap out the PSU itself. But if you do that, definitely send me a PM with your RMA #, etc. so I can see about getting the unit back here so I can test the +12V with a DMM and see if the PSU fails hi-pot, etc. Heck... in fact, if you run into any resistance getting an advanced RMA, drop me a line because I really want to see this PSU in person to find out if what you're running into is normal or a failure that I'd be willing to push an RMA through for you just to make sure the unit makes its way back to the U.S.

Nobody's saying he can't get an RMA. If all he wanted was an RMA, he would have gotten one by now. He posted in another forum (at least two that I know of) asking why the PSU was doing this, knowing that the people in those forums can't give him an RMA. People don't come to this forum for an RMA. They contact support. They come to this forum for answers. He has a PSU that's acting differently than the one he had before, but it's a completely different PSU and we're trying to figure out why. So if he does get an RMA and it does the same thing, we all know why. He's more than welcome to try another PSU. And you can talk about efficiency all you want. I don't have to respond to posts in this forum. It's actually not my job. But I want to be hepful. And if I tell him to RMA for another RM1000 and the replacement does the same thing, that's not very helpful to him... or anyone else that comes along that has the same problem for the same reason.