NadeMagnet

Thanks. lol I was looking in users/appdata/local. Wouldn't I just need to copy over the profiles and libraries folder instead of the whole Corsair folder? I'd like to narrow it down as much as possible to get as fresh a start as possible.

Around a year ago I use to get BSOD on shutdowns roughly 3 quarters of the time I shut down. Error codes narrowed it down to a driver but I could never find the culprit and tried to update all the ones I could think of to no avail in fixing the problem. I was using ICUE 3 at the time. ICUE 4 had been out for a bit by that time so I figured I might as well try it out. lol Low and behold my BSOD went away. Don't ask me. You'd think updating new versions of ICUE 3 would also be giving me new drivers with it but IDK what the deal is. I don't even know for sure if ICUE was the culprit to begin with. It could have been a conflict with something else. I just know that all I changed was going from 3 to 4. Anyways, a few days ago I had two power outages and FML the BSOD are back so something got borked again. There was a new update to 4 and I was hoping it would fix it but it was just like updating 3 before, no changes on the BSOD. So I want to just wipe it completely and DL it again with a complete fresh install. The issue is I have like lol literally around 50 profiles I've DL and an extensive lighting library from them and I don't want to lose either. Can someone point me to what files I need to copy to keep my DL profiles as well as my lighting library?

I've done several different projects like making my own versions of the LT100 towers and adding LED to lava lamps. [ame] [/ame] All ICUE controlled. Now I want to see if I can mange to control a really long reel of LED with ICUE to put in corner channels similar to what I used for the towers around my room. I remember coming across a thread on reddit a while back and a user talked about something like a data repeater? I can't remember exactly and stupidly didn't save the thread, but he had an actual diagram. But now I can't find it and I'm having trouble finding something that would work. IDK about LED outside of ICUE. lol I just learned how to solder doing these projects so I'm still a newb. What I need for power I can figure out. I just can't figure out how to get the data down the line of that many LED. Does anyone know something that could help with that?

Glad you guys like em. :) I'm kinda bummed I'm out of projects now. Hey Dev do you happen to know what kind of non conductive substance would you recommend to apply over where the wires are soldered onto the PCB that can handle heat? The 16 inch top ring is occasionally grounding against the lamp base and shutting it off which then shuts the other ring off as well and I'll have to wiggle it to "fix" it.

Thanks man. And thanks for your ICUE guide. It's been an immense help and I've linked it to people I don't know how many dozens of times now. :) Both you and DevBiker have made ICUE such an easy breeze to use for me.

These are both run to a lighting node pro mounted under my desk which is being powered off a 650w PSU from an old PC. As soon as I get around to yanking all the LED I put in the middle of the grande, I'll make some neat modes in ICUE. I already tried some like color wave and it looks awesome until they hit the middle LED rings. I wrote a how to with all the instructions, a short vid showing them off, and everything I bought to do the mod here on reddit.

Am I right that they're just normal 5v ARGB products? So that's a 5v, data, and ground wire. So what's the 4th pin/wire for? Or am I wrong to begin with?

lol OK that makes much more sense. Thank you.

I have. It's been bookmarked for months. Nothing in it would make what you said make sense. Like "The LNP has a maximum of 204 LEDs being powered and controlled by a single channel, or you can do 120 per channel" Can you please explain further what you meant?

Not understanding. How can it be both 120 per channel and also 204 per channel for a LNP? Did you mean 204 in total for both channels? 250 for both channels of a Co Pro? How would I even program that much in ICUE when the most it'll let me select in external strips is 132 per channel if I pick 1 1.4M, 1 450m, and 1 350m LS100 strips? And don't I need to be adding up amps of the strips instead of going off a number when trying to use that many on a LNP or Co Pro? If I go off what you told me for say the Co Pro I can run 500 LED in total for both channels, how is that not going to be more then 4.5amps?

I have a lot of daisy chainable RGB strips I'm running with ICUE and adapter cables. But I've kept the number of LED down to 60 per channel since that's the max you can set normally for LED strips. But screwing around on ICUE I now see an option in lighting setup for the LS100 external LED strips which lets you program more than 60. That wasn't there before when I first migrated over to ICUE. So how many LED in total is safe to run off a LNP and CP now since I can go above 60 and maybe cut down on the number of lighting channels I'm currently using. Since I'm not powering them off a wall socket like the LS, I just have the LNP and CP with their 4.5A sata power, I don't want to overload and pop anything, especially the commander pros. Even if it's not that much above 60 it could help my setup free a channel or 2.

I understand that. That's what I'm saying is crap. You should be able to transfer ownership. What difference does it make who they belong to as long as they are still under warranty? Even if he did something to screw them up I'm 100% sure nobody at Corsair would be able to tell that and you guys would have replaced them if he was the one trying to do it . I thought of that but how do they only partially burn out and all three burn out in the same exact way? Either way, it's all good now. Even though the seller put no returns on the sale he's still accepting the return AND letting me keep the fans which I can put in a build for my son with the Noctuas I yanked for the LL. As long as there is no other LL to compare them against they work just fine. Or fineish anyways I should say since programing the lighting will be way more of a pain since they don't display the correct colors. All I have to ship back is the 4 12 LED strips and adapter cables that came with them, the LNP and RGB hub. So this has turned out to be a hassle but it'll work out in the end. You can close this thread.

Products have serial numbers allowing Corsair to see if they're still under warranty. That policy is crap. It shouldn't matter if I'm the original buyer or the hundredth if it can be shown that they're still under warranty. I mean what is the point of serial numbers then? Every product ever sold by Corsair should be in some database somewhere. They looked brand new because they basically are. I just wasn't the original buyer. If they're defective than how? What can cause them to display wrong colors but for only some colors? I can't just return them to ebay because I don't know one which of the 2 sellers these 3 belonged to since I didn't think I needed to check. All seller's pics show them working fine and they clearly look untampered with. Like no stickers look like they've been peeled back, all the cords still have all the original packaging bends. There isn't a mark on them.

Bought 8 LL fans off ebay. I contacted all 3 sellers and they all worked fine in their systems. The oldest 3 are only a year old. 3 are 2 months old. 2 are 7 months old. As shown in these series of pics. (Though my phone is not showing the colors right, you'll just have to take my word for what the color is suppose to be) As you can see, Red, Yellow, Green, all 4 display the same color like they should. https://imgur.com/a/FwfNps8 But as I change to certain colors only the bottom side fan displays the right colors. Teal, and the top 3 barely change from green. Blue, which the top 3 are dim and I know it looks like the front fan's blue, but the front has a tinted window. Without the window on the front the front fans are as bright as the bottom side fan. Next pic should be purple. Last pic should be white. https://imgur.com/a/zoCC2Rc On the color wheel it seems like all the colors on the right side of the color wheel all display properly. The colors on the left on the other hand start diverging from what they should be. Only the bottom side fan works right. So what gives? I tried updating the firmware even though all Commander pros and lighting node pros said they have the latest firmware. I originally had the front 3 fans running off of 1 RGB hub and the other 5 off of another RGB hub. I tried taking 1 off of a RGB hub and plugged it into the other and ran 4 and 4 in case 5 fans was drawing too much power. I was using a molex to sata power adapter but I unplugged it and now it's being used to power a powered 5v 3pin splitter box that I use to split the signal from my infinity mirror and my pacific r1 ram cover. So now all my CP, LNP, and RGB hubs are being powered off the PSU sata power cables with no adapters in the mix. I also tried to a third RGB hub on the 4 side fans. So I'm out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you sir. It should be arriving tomorrow.

The second. I wanted to just leave it on. It's such a low power requirement that the PSU fan won't even spin except when I first turn it on. Oooooh I thought they were just using 5v. So you think that switch will work for me? I was just jumping the 24pin with a paper clip on the 4th and 5th pins to get it to turn on. I thought I'd have to sever the power on the molex connection itself. That switch will turn on the PSU and still send power to the molex cables with just 3 wires?

Running an old Corsair TX650 PSU mounted under my desk to power some LED behind my monitor and TV, and some desk fans in the summer. Using 2 Lighting node pros and an Anidees fan hub. All three are sata powered. But rather than having to reach down under my desk to power off the PSU every time I want to shut them off, I wanted to run a switch to my desktop next to the keyboard to do the job. So I bought this https://www.performance-pcs.com/diy/switches/switch-accessories/4-pin-molex-power-adapter-cable-w-remote-on-off-toggle-switch-36-sleeved-gc36ps44.html and this to run to the 3 items. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GULFJ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 How that switch is pinned won't work for what I need it to do. If I try just the fan hub plugged in alone. With the switch on, the fan LED and the fans spin up to full power like they should. Shut the switch off, and the LED shut off, the fans loose most of the power. But still are getting enough to run minimally. So power is leaking by somehow. If I try the fan hub and both LNP or just 1 LNP. Then neither the fan LED nor any of the LED strips attached to the LNP will shut off at all. As best they merely dim and with all 3 I can't even tell if the fans slow. So obviously this switch isn't pinned how I need it to be. This is a pic of how the switch is pinned with their pin layout. https://imgur.com/a/DTSppK2#0brWQvy I don't understand how it's wired at all. They have the switch itself which is the long cable that goes out of the pic's frame, wired to the grounds. So how do I rewire this so I can keep the PSU on and shut off the 3 items with the switch? Both the fan hub and the LNP are 5v items so I don't need the 12v.

The power requirements should be the same between both 30 LED strips. One works right on all 3 of the cables I made, one flickers on all 3. Then works properly when used by something else.

My Acer CG7 monitor came with 2x 30 LED strips and 2x 15 LED strips. The RGB headers on the acer stopped working so I got 2 more LNP (lol I have 5 now and 1 commander) for cheap on ebay and made JST-SM to Corsair adapter cables from my extra Corsair and JST cables. 1 of the 30 LED strips flickers. It's not an on off flicker but a bright to dim flicker, enough to still be noticeable behind the monitor, especially on modes that change color fast which seems to make it flicker a lot more. I know it's not the cables or the LNP. I tried the 3 different cables I made and both LNP, and made sure everything was as well connected as possible. Plus I tried the other x30 LED strip and that one works fine. I know it's not the LED strip itself because I tried it both with my MOBO's Polychrome and also the RGB fan hub from my Anidees case, and it works just fine with both even on fast changing color modes. I know it's not a power problem, I yanked a 650W PSU from an old PC and mounted it under my desk and all it has to run is 2 LNP and some LED. I tested the "bad" one with nothing else daisy chained to it plus again, the other one works just fine. So what gives? lol Why doesn't that particular strip not like ICUE? So I've yanked it from the setup and I'm currently using crappy polychrome to run it. The other 3 Acer strips as well as 4 corsair strips are being run by the 2 LNP. So this isn't exactly a pressing issue. But it's got me damn curious.

Didn't get an answer here but Piratedog on ebay, the really helpful guy who's making all those non corsair item adapter cables, said he uses magnets glued on without any problem. I glued a magnet on each of my LNP and I can confirm it hasn't done anything bad.

Thank you sir for this table and to Piratedog for linking me to it. https://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=191905 BTW I got an answer from Phantek. The frames aren't using .5A max, they are using .72A max. :eek: As far as I can figure, nothing fried because I was only running a rainbow mode when I had 7 frames chained to 1 LNP channel. Can't remember which rainbow I was actually using, but assuming there isn't that much difference between rainbow modes, I'll use the spiral rainbow in my figuring with the QL fan values since they are 34 LED. Which is the closest to the frames 30 LED. Spiral rainbow is using a little less than half the power of full white. So if I round the figure to simply half to make the math easier, half the power of .72A is .36A. Times 7 for 7 fan frames would be 2.52amps I had running to a single LNP channel. Less actually since I had rounded to half. And even less than that because the frames are only using 30 LED not the 34 that the QL fans are using. So that's why the LNP nor the wires connecting it all even so much as got hot to the touch much less fried. I was under the 2.25amp max of each of a LNP channel.

lol The funny thing is, white is a prime color I'm currently using. The fan frames are solid blue with 2 white ripple modes. The strips are static white with opacity turned down to roughly 25% of the slider and then 4 blue color waves, 2 going left and 2 right. The infinity mirror and Pacific R1 RAM cover is white with opacity at roughly 30% with 2 custom blue waves set to two sides. This just how I have it now though. I was trying to match the front Anidees fans that are blue. If the Anidees fan hub's PWM worked, I would have hooked them up to ICUE too and set them to 21 LED. But since they don't I'm yanking them for 4 more Noctua with fan frames. So It'll be 5 frames daisy chained on 1 channel and 4 chained on another channel. So 9 frames will be right under a lighting node pro's 4.5amps. https://imgur.com/a/k17D47F

I guess I read it wrong then. It must be 4.5 in total. https://imgur.com/a/UjiZS6V

lol It was in the manual the whole time. It's 4.5 amps per channel.

I'm running Phantek fan frames as 30 LED strips with ICUE and a lighting node. I know it can handle at least 7 fan frames daisy chained and connected to one channel. Each fan frame is .5 amps so that's 3.5 amps. The other channel had 4 Corsair LED strips. I have no idea about their power requirements. Can a lighting node channel handle 4.5 amps? As in can it handle 9 frames?