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Everything posted by nerdballer

  1. Wow, that's very interesting that two people with this GPU are seeing the same issue. Would have thought it was a one-off...
  2. How old is the pump? Corsair has a 3 year warranty on the XD5. I imagine it would better to get a brand new pump/res combo for free than to have to pay for new parts and do surgery on your existing one.
  3. Those are air pockets in your blocks. It's not like a critical problem or anything, as it looks like they aren't reducing the underwater surface area of your heatsinks, but the less air the better. If you see air in your blocks, you probably also have air you can't see in your radiators. That can impact your maximum cooling capacity. There are a couple of tricks to getting air pockets to go away. One would be to run your pump at full speed for a good few hours. If you still have air pockets after that, you can tilt your case back and forth in different directions while the pc is running to force those bubbles to escape the blocks and rads. I've literally tilted my pc in every conceivable direction to get rid of air. You'll know it's working when you see bubbles passing through your tubes. It may seem scary, but as long as everything is installed nice and solid, you're not going to get leaks from just tilting the case. You probably want to avoid putting the pc in a full upside-down position as that will force any air in your res to get pumped back out into the system. One thing to keep in mind: during this phase of tilting and forcing air to eventually make it into your res, it's a good idea to "burp" the res periodically by loosening your fill port for a couple seconds. I find that air pressure builds up in the res during the bleeding process and removing that excess pressure seems to help speed things along.
  4. Ugh i hate that for you man. It's weird how some manufacturers get all sketched out when you remove the stock cooler while other don't. I know EVGA is more open to it, and from what I've heard NVIDIA doesn't officially void your warranty if you open up their FE cards. I also noticed there are no tamper-evident stickers or tape or screws when cracking open the FE. I'm not sure about your model though. At the end of the day, if Asus can't prove you cracked open the card, and you don't tell them when you do a Return/RMA...well...that could give you some options... But let's not get ahead of ourselves. It's just as likely that there's a short when the waterblock is installed as there being a GPU fault. That's the point of that next test. I looked up your model but am having a hard time finding reviews that mention putting this model underwater. For sanity's sake, it would be nice to see proof that it has been done. I'm not sure if waterblock manufacturers just test PCB fit when put together their compatibility lists or if they actually fully install it and boot the system...
  5. I'd probably leave both unplugged to replicate how the GPU sees things when it's installed on the waterblock. What we're trying to determine here is whether the GPU isn't happy when those things are unplugged, or if perhaps you're getting some sort of short when the waterblock is installed. If things work on the stock cooler even when those cables are unplugged, then we know it is something specific to having the waterblock installed. If it still doesn't work, then we know it's something related to the GPU not being happy when those cables aren't plugged in. If it's the latter, then I would think that's a fault with the GPU. Which exact Asus GPU are you using?
  6. Sounds weird man. I guess if it was me, I'd probably try these things. If my CPU has integrated graphics, I'd plug my video cable into the MoBo and see if the GPU is even being detected or not once I get into BIOS or Windows. I'd try different outgoing ports on the GPU. I doubt that's the issue, but it doesn't hurt to check. If you really want to test if it's an issue with the video card freaking out when no fans are detected, you could try leaving the stock cooler on but not plugging in the fans to the GPU's fan header. If it doesn't boot up at that point, then we know that's the issue. You wouldn't damage the card by testing this for a few minutes as the heatsink would still have plenty of thermal runway to absorb any heat before temps got too high. A lot of GPUs these days don't even run the fans when idling...
  7. In full disclosure, I've completed exactly 1 watercooled build, so take what i say with a grain of salt. In my build I have 2 360 rads. One is mounted on the front where fans are pushing air into the case. The other one is mounted at the top where it pushes the air in the case out of the top. The main "disadvantage" of this is that my top rad has to try to cool the coolant with air that has already been warmed by the first rad. Thermal efficiency would say it would be best to to either orient my top fans to also pull cold air in, or reorient my front fans to also push air out, drawing cool air in naturally from everywhere else. I considered this for a while and decided against it. The reason I decided against it is because it just wasn't worth it to me. Sure I could shave off a few degrees by reorienting some fans, but what do I lose in the process? Well, since I use ll120 RGB fans on the top, it simply wouldn't look as nice to turn those things around to pull air in. And if I switched my front fans, I'm now pulling air in from every other crevice in the case that doesn't have a filter on it...meaning I get more dust build-up more quickly. Some will argue that this doesn't matter, but after running air-cooled pcs for the last 5 years, I can tell you, those dust filters catch a lot. So my whole point here is you need to evaluate what's important to you. For some people, they see this as a sport: to get every possible point of temperature measurement down as low as possible. And that's great! This is a hobby after all, solve for the thing that makes you the happiest. For me, watercooling has advantages in the aesthetics AND performance departments. So as long as my pc can allow me to overclock the hell out of my GPU, run quieter than a traditionally cooled pc, run significantly cooler than an air-cooled pc, keep temperatures in a respectable range, and look the way I want while doing it, that's perfect for me. The reason I'm bringing this up is there's a lot of enthusiasm out there for maximum thermal efficiency. I just want to voice that maximum thermal efficiency isn't always necessary, and it's totally ok to go with a design that isn't thermally perfect in order to achieve a certain aesthetic (within reason, of course...there are certainly objectively bad designs choices). Don't overthink it. Cheers, good luck, and have fun!
  8. There isn't any sort of wired connection between the gpu block and the gpu itself, so I wouldn't think it's a technical incompatibility in that sense. One thing that could prevent it from working is if there is a thermal shutdown because your thermal paste wasn't applied correctly, your card is indeed not compatible with the block so proper contact isn't established, you didn't install the block correctly (not flush and reasonably tight), or if you didn't actually fill your loop. I'm not sure if that's the case here though, but I'd definitely check to make sure your GPU is listed as compatible with the block you purchased. If it is, then there are some other possibilities to consider? Other than that, it's just sanity checks from there. Are you 100% sure you plugged in 8/12 pin power connectors to the GPU? Are you 100% sure you actually plugged in the DisplayPort/HDMI cable to the GPU itself? Are you 100% sure the GPU was properly installed in the PCIE slot? If you're vertically mounting, when you tested it stock, did you use a riser cable? Or did you just test it horizontally and only use the riser cable after you installed the water block? If so, you could have a bad riser cable. Any of those things not being correct can trigger the VGA light on your motherboard. Does your CPU have integrated graphics? If so, one thing you could try is booting the machine while having your DisplayPort/HDMI cable plugged into the motherboard to force it to use the integrated graphics. From there you could check BIOS or any installed system monitors to see if the graphics card is being detected, and check temps and/or Event Viewer to see if anything is off. Crazy unqualified possibility: I know most Motherboard BIOS will refuse to boot if something isn't installed on the CPU fan header for the CPU (until you disable the check anyway). I'm not sure if some GPUs have the same safety mechanism in their BIOS...could be it's freaking out when it detects that the fans are no longer connected. I've NEVER heard of that though so I highly doubt that's the issue. Just brainstorming here...
  9. DI water can still contain bacteria and pathogens. If the coolant you're going to use has a growth inhibitor then I'm guessing it's fine. Haven't used DI water before so I can't comment based on experience.
  10. Hey gang, this may be common knowledge, but it wasn't something that was apparent to me even after looking through this forum. After putting together my loop, I apparently did a poor job cleaning off the shavings from my acrylic tubing. This meant that those pieces would get loose in the loop and ultimately get stuck in the fins of my GPU. This was driving me nuts, as I could actually see the bits and pieces stuck against the fins, and paranoid me was feeling like it was disrupting the flow of coolant throughout my system. I never knew just how much you see every little imperfection when you put together a loop, and simply can't keep your hands off of it; but I digress. I searched for videos on cleaning the inside of an XG7 but came away a bit intimidated. I know I'll eventually need to take the whole block apart for a deep cleaning down the road, but I just needed to clean the fins at this point. The video by Bit-Tech does a great job doing tear-downs of the Hydro X system, but of course they sped up the section of video where they took apart the XG7. But even from the speed-run, it looked a bit complex with a ton of tiny screws. [ame= ] [/ame] Then I stumbled on a video by JayzTwoCents where he does an overview of the Hydro X system, and he made note of the fact that the fin array appeared to not be directly machined into the block, but was actually secured with 8 screws. [ame= ] [/ame] With this I took my GPU out of the system and separated the XG7 from the GPU to investigate. And it turns out that the fin array is indeed not built into the block, but secured using 8 screws after all. This means that the fin array itself is removable from the block. All you have to do is remove the GPU from the block, remove the 8 screws directly behind the fin array, and the fin array will just fall out. From there I scrubbed it with a toothbrush and rinsed it with distilled water. Installing it back couldn't be simpler either: simply reinstall the 8 screws and reinstall the GPU. You will need to clean the thermal paste and reapply it, so make sure you have that handy before you start taking it apart. To be safe, take note of the tension applied to the screws when you remove them so you can install them at that level of tension again. There's an O-ring in there that seals the deal, so a snug fit is needed, but I would probably avoid over-tightening. I would also avoid fully tightening the screws until all of them are seated, and proceed to tighten in a star pattern to make sure you get even pressure across the plate. I'm not sure if Corsair designed the block this way because 1) it's cheaper to manufacture it this way than to build it into a solid block, 2) they anticipated that people would need to get in there to clean/replace the fins, or 3) both. All the same, I'm glad I found this out and wanted to get this information out there in case it helps another noob like myself. TLDR: The fin array in the XG7 is not built into the block, but can be extracted for cleaning by removing the 8 conveniently located screws directly behind it.
  11. Hello all, I'm thinking of buying the Virtuoso SE and wanted to get your general feedback on it. Looking through the forums, I can see there are some occasional software issues, but I tend to think those will be worked out (or least one would hope). What I'm wondering more about is audio quality and overall comfort. I've spent a long time looking at reviews for headsets, and without fail, for every headset you can find there's just about as many overwhelmingly negative reviews as there are positive. I guess that's the nature of product reviews on store pages. Angry people always surface to the top :biggrin:. I figured that soliciting feedback from a forum like this might yield more balanced views. So my question for you: From a sound quality and comfort perspective, do you like your Virtuoso? Was it worth your ~$200? Have you had/do you have a headset you like better? If so, why? Thanks in advance!
  12. That's an interesting idea. I would think that would create a lot of negative pressure though, pulling unfiltered air in and causing dust build-up. I guess, like everything else, it's a tradeoff. It's easy enough to test with though. Maybe i'll switch them around this weekend and run the same tests just to see what happens.
  13. Thanks for your response! Yeah my fluid baseline is about 30C. I just ran the Aida64 CPU stress test and the Heaven benchmark at the same time for about an hour. Here were the maximum observations. Ambient Temperature in the room: 24 C (warm, I know!) GPU Temp: 54 C CPU Temp: 72 C Fluid Temp: 41 C The fans ramped up based on a curve so my front fans were running at 1800 RPM while my top fans were running at 1500 RPM. The front fans are in a push configuration, in-taking cool air from the front into the case. The top fans are exhausting through a push configuration. So it sounds like these numbers are at least acceptable? Thanks again!
  14. Hey guys, I got my Hydro X equipment installed and running. I just wanted to run things by the community to make sure everything is normal. Here are my specs: CPU: Ryzen 3700x GPU: RTX 2080 Super Rads: 360mm x2 Here are some observations I've seen while gaming: 1. GPU temps gets up to 52 at an absolute maximum, typically hang in the mid 40s 2. CPU temps get up to about 70 but usually hang around the mid 60s 3. Fluid temps get up to about 38 Idle temps are obviously lower. GPU hangs at around 32c and CPU temps hang around 45c. I still need to tweak the fan curves and such to optimize, but just wanted to make sure these temps seem within the range of normal. The CPU seems hot but from what I'm reading, Ryzen likes to run hot since it wants to boost until it's thermally throttled. Not sure if that's true so wanted to check with you guys. The other thing I'm wondering is on the D5 pump speed. Using the flow indicator as a metric, I've noticed that it will not spin reliably when RPMs dip below 2000. It starts stuttering and will stop altogether some points. Is this consistent with what you guys see? I've just been keeping it steady at 2500 RPM. Also, I've noticed some gunk has accumulated on the fins in the GPU block. I cleaned out the rads pretty thoroughly. I think it might be bits of acrylic. I did make it point to wash the tubes after cutting and deburring but it looks like some bits escaped the wash and have gotten stuck in there (see attachment). Do I need to worry about this? I know I'll eventually get around to breaking everything down to clean the system as part of annual maintenance, but I'm wondering if I should do it sooner than later because of this? I really don't want to have to crack open the GPU block. Has anyone done that and recovered from the experience? Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
  15. Ok, so I did some searching and I've seen this question asked and answered in various scenarios for the most part, but I really just want to get some validation as I'm also running into conflicting information from Corsair's website. I've had a hard time getting someone from Corsair to answer my question so I thought I'd give it a shot here. I have an NVIDIA 2080 Super Founders Edition GPU. I bought this one specifically for maximum waterblock compatibility :biggrin:. When going through the Configurator for the Hydro X series, it gives me two options for the GPU waterblock: Option 1 (default/preferred): XG7 RGB 20-SERIES (2080 FE) Option 2: XG7 RGB 20-SERIES (2080 FE Rev.B) Once I get out of the Configurator and have it add all of the stuff to my cart, I notice that the 2080 FE is out of stock. So I went ahead and just added the 2080 FE Rev.B version to my cart since the Configurator said it's A-OK. But when I go to the product page for 2080 FE Rev.B and look at the compatibility section, it says that my founders edition 2080 Super is NOT compatible and points me to the variety that's out-of-stock. So this is where I'm all turned around. Why would the Configurator suggest both options as compatible while the product page for 2080 FE Rev.B says it's not? I'm happy to go with either option so long as they're compatible, but I don't want to pull the trigger until I know for sure. If anyone has any insight on this, or has successfully mounted the Rev.B version to a 2080 Super Founders edition, I'd really appreciate the validation! Cheers!
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