Jump to content
Corsair Community

Deathtech

Members
  • Posts

    14
  • Joined

Everything posted by Deathtech

  1. Here is a cool circle one. It fits right in the middle, not sure if you can change its position, but it fits well with a cpu monitor on each side.
  2. Using an ICue Nexus, my CPU usage goes from .8%-1.2% to almost 5-6% on a 9900k. I have deleted all other screens, only run 1, and it has two sensor readouts for package temp and load. I can unplug the nexus and watch my cpu use plummet and any latency is resolved.
  3. Hey guys, when my keyboard is lit up across the top (The upper lightbar) it has quite a few "dim" spots. Some of my keys only illuminate halfway, as well. Very odd. Keyboard is a few months old. Also, my "R" key seems to just start repeating randomly while I am typing. It seems this may be a common issue, but I wanted to see what the forums here think.
  4. Hey guys, I sent an email to Rockitcool's support, but haven't heard back and thought the community here might be able to help me out. I have delidded my CPU and have a direct die frame from Rockitcool. They have quite a few videos and easy explanations of the process of using their tools, And they have a Corsair AIO Video which shows they have to shim it a bit for it to fit, and an EKWB Mounting video for Direct Die Frame that shows a different way of shimming the cooler. I believe our XC7 should be about the same kind of setup as an EKWB as far as height but wasn't sure since the Corsair WB is multifunctional and can be mounted to an AM4 socket with a bracket change, whereas the EK seems to be socket specific. Can anyone help me please determine if and potentially how much I need to shim the XC7 when going direct die? [ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57IZUdW4xh0]Corsair AIO Video[/ame] [ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KcFrvOZfcE]EKWB[/ame]
  5. Yeah, the whole direct die kit with plate, delid tool and liquid Mercury (and a small carrying case) was just 49.99. specifically the i9 - 9900k / 9700k / 9600K delid tool 89. The inclusion of the liquid Mercury and the little things sold me on it. Wouldn't do this if I didn't have every single necessary tool to be as safe as possible. On a second note, a lot of people mention using clear nail polish or liquid electrical tape to cover the smt's on the chips bare pcb. I'm wondering if people leave this nail polish on / liquid tape on or take it off after the liquid Metal application. Seems everyone recommends using liquid electrical tape, but always winds up using clear nail polish. Seems like it could cause some weird thermal patches? Maybe I'm overthinking it.
  6. Hello all. Still waiting on the two replacement commander pro's, and rockit cool just so happened to have a sale. I was wondering if anyone here might have some insight as to whether or not liquid Metal would adversely affect the nickel played copper bottom. This is also a shot in the dark (I sent an email to rockit cool as well) but in their instructions they have a couple of videos. One for an EK velocity/supremacy that shows how many washers / shims to use. They also have a Corsair aio video, which uses slightly more shimming. Could anyone say how closely related to the XC7 (in terms of height) The EK WB's would be? Are they similar, or is the block more closely related to Corsair's aio in terms of clearance? Any help would be appreciated.
  7. Although hold times are long, it seems they are very responsive if you wait long enough to get a customer support rep through phone support. I had two Commander Pro's fail recently (one right after getting my entire HydroX rig setup and leak testing, died within the hour) And the USB ports completely fail to function on the other one. I know it is frustrating, but, as with any brand new product, there are kinks to iron out. Good news is Corsair seems to be standing up and replacing the failed equipment.
  8. Thanks for all of your help! Talked to Customer support, they are going to RMA both C-pros. Yes, I followed all setup instructions to the letter. Don't think I missed anything. Ticket numbers are 2000761274 & 2000763369. I am waiting on hold now as the second RMA (while approved) I haven't been sent any info on, and I wanted to ship them both together rather than having to pay for an extra label. Here is a Pic of my setup :
  9. Hello all, So after many hours of planning and research, I got everything hooked up this weekend. doing my 24 hour leak test went very well, with no condensation or dripping. During this time I had the commander pro hooked up as well, testing lights on the new fans and verifying they all run properly. everything seemed to go well, but about 2 hours in all the RGB shut off on the fans. At that point it was fine with me as it was pretty late. When I woke the next morning I began the excruciating task of cable management, already having a single commander pro and a lighting node pro, on top of doing push/pull on the new 420 rad. So, 6 fans in total for the new Cpro. Got everything wired up, and the fans are spinning (on very, very low speeds) and none of the RGB will work. So I think maybe its the fact i'm using a USB plug direct from my motherboard, and so i plug it into the commander pro I already have, to one of the USB headers. Windows throws a USB device not recognized error and icue wont see it. I move my lighting node pro to the supposedly working Commander Pro, and running from its USB header it wont show up in Icue either. Weird, huh? So my brand new commander is basically DoA, as well as the USB plugs on my (seemingly otherwise fine) Cpro not recognizing a lighting node pro or the other commander pro. I should note that I have replugged, checked all wiring, the lighting node pro works fine when direct to the motherboard, on the working Cpro. Also, the new (completely not working) cpro wont even allow its RGB hub to funciton when plugged into an LED port, but if i move it to the second commander pro with the janky USB headers, it works fine from its LED port. So, I have one "semi" working commander pro (USB headers not working?) and a brand new 800$ HydroX setup that I cant use (and on the default hardware setting wont even compete with the 240 AIO I replaced it with) because i cant control fan speed. I can only set pump speed, but it isnt recognized as a HydroX system (No HydroX Profiles appear available, and it doesnt list it in devices) and even then at 100% (4k RPM) it still wont beat my 240. I have a feeling this is solely due to lack of fancurve and pump settings in iCue not being available, and the fans being stuck at the lowest possible speed (once again I have 5 LL's in Push Pull) Please help. I put a ticket in last week with support, and haven't heard anything back. at the moment i feel like a fool having spent so much money and I cant even cool a 9900k at 5.0ghz without hitting 90 degrees, whereas my 240 AIO wouldn't even break 85ish.
  10. Something like this maybe? With Orange showing flow in , green showing flow out
  11. Hi there! I am about to start piecing everything together, and am planning my tube runs, etc. In looking through the available manuals, Cant find one for the XR5 420, or Any XR5 size that would allude to which ports are in and out on the rad? I am mounting this up top on a Thermaltake view 71, with a push pull config exhausting from the top. I am using soft tubing the first go around, until I can get GPU Blocks from corsair for my 2080. Can anyone take a look at this and see if I am getting the correct setup going? I want it to look as Aesthetically pleasing as possible, but this is my first water-loop that isn't an AIO so any help would be appreciated. Below is a layout of what im thinking of doing. Light Blue = Perceived outlet (unsure if radiator is right) Red = Inlet Orange = Soft tubing Green = Drain Ball Valve with Male to Male adapter (The port is technically an inlet, but I think it can be used as a drain? Uncertain) If there is a black X, it means i don't plan on using that port. I want my flow to go something like this : Pump to Rad Rad to CPU Block CPU Block to Pump top outlet if possible. Now the line going from the Pump to the rad, Im curious if I can maybe droop this a bit for some better looks? I will have a vertical GPU so i don't need that much. I'm also considering flipping the CPU block internally so i can swap the inlet and outlet.
  12. EKWB has a block now for the Gigabyte Aorus RTX 2080 XTREME Would be awesome if this were to make its way to the corsair side.
  13. The Corsair one is basically Bits-Power, which is a bit hard to source in the US, so I can definitely recommend that one.
  14. So, the configurator seemed to do great. took a couple of weeks for everything to come in, got the rig tore down yesterday and started laying out my parts to install. The configurator does not recommend a ball valve... or any way to setup a drain for that matter, Despite saying "everything you need for the loop will be included". This should, in my opinion, be just as important as the other components, because you cant really put one on retroactively until you have actually (dangerously) drained your loop "The hard way". I ordered mine, but thought you guys may want to consider taking a look at that, as it seems there may be a lot of issues in a few months when newbies begin realizing they cannot drain their systems easily. Also, was wanting your thoughts on flushing the radiator before use. I know in previous builds it has been recommended to always flush the rad before hooking it up in order to ensue there are not leftover particles that could gunk up the loop. If you do recommend this, how/ what do you recommend to use? Vinegar / Water? Mayhem Blitz Cleaner? Thanks ahead of time. Also psyched about getting everything in. Got my 420 rad with push pull LL140's and my pump mounted. Now im just waiting on my ball valve order so i can mount the cpu block. Kinda sucks I gotta wait another week for it, but whatever. ::pirate::
×
×
  • Create New...