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Everything posted by newfiend

  1. The picture of the 1000D is the Commander Pro in iCUE. It has it's own special firmware that supports the front lighting in a 1000D. To apply a setting to a fan or pump in iCUE v4 you need to select the drop down box under the individual fan/pump and then select what Cooling Preset you want applied to that fan/pump.
  2. Wow.. This looks AMAZING!! Love the new update. Has a nice new modern feel. Well done Corsair!
  3. Thank You =). Yes I have a Asus Optical Drive in the case now (had an old Sony before) I have a Corsair 280mm Rad top mounted with the optical drive installed and everything fits perfectly. I used the Corsair Mounting brackets that came with the pump and mounted them to the back of the radiator. I just turned the pump so the inlet / outlet is facing the glass on the 678c and Yes I was able to install Corsair LED strips along the inside edge of the case for edge lighting.
  4. Odd, I don't agree with your assessment of the 680x. I have one that runs 24/7 have front and bottom as intake, top and rear as exhaust. Fans run about 8-900rpm through an AIO in the front. Have no temp issues what so ever. Only temp issue I had was in the rear chamber and adding a couple fans back there fixed that problem. Custom built PC's require critical problem solving at times. If you were experiencing temperature issues some investigating into why may have been in order.
  5. Wow, that looks great. Nice job man. Love seeing people's custom case mods.
  6. You need to download and install the latest Armory Crate software and then it will show up in iCUE. You should download that from Asus website for your motherboard under driver's to get the latest version.
  7. Correct you are pushing COOL air through a radiator.. isn't that the best idea? Aren't you trying to cool the coolant in the loop? So which is better? blowing cool air through a radiator to cool the fluid or blowing HOT air through the radiator to heat up the coolant? Having fans on a AIO or Hydro X radiator as intake (bringing in cooler outside of the case air) over a radiator will bring down coolant temps in a loop (AIO or Hydro X) by between 1-3c usually depending on the Ambient air temperature. You are comparing old cases where air gets trapped inside a case with newer cases that are vented (have holes) and large fans moving copious amounts of air through them to the ones from the 80's and 90's where they were pretty much a sealed up box. That is no longer the case today. The 680x has plenty of areas for air to escape. Lots of holes and vents. With high static pressure in a case the air is being pushed out all of these holes and vents as well as the 120mm fan in the rear sucking it all out. I have a Hydro X setup in my main PC. Had my top and rear fans to exhaust and front as intake. By flipping my top fans to intake I gained 3c drop in coolant temps and have monitored all my component temps and they also dropped a bit by bringing in cooler air. If you are still worried the 1 120mm fan isn't going to be enough to vent the internal air and you are dead set on a top AIO rad installation flip the bottom fan to exhaust as well as the rear and do intake top and front. I still believe you will get the best results with all fans intake and the one rear as exhaust. I think you would be surprised at the results. As for the filter question the 680x is filtered in 3 locations. Top, Bottom and Front. If you are looking at brackets for GPU sag.. I would wait on that. The GPU mount is designed to hold the GPU pretty level. there are the usual GPU mounting screws that hold it in place as well as a bracket that slides down the applies pressure to the GPU mounting bracket to help keep it more level. I would mount it and see if you like how it looks. I have a EVGA 1080 in mine and it's fairly heavy as well. Doesn't sag.
  8. As far as static pressure goes the QL are 1.55mm -H20 vs 1.61mm -H2O.. not a huge difference really but LL are better yes. Would you notice a difference in AIO temp. IMO it would be minimal and probably not noticable.
  9. There are a few versions of that case. The Mirror Black and the standard versions. If you go here you can see Zotty has done a lot of work on setting up wiring diagrams to aid in correctly connecting the wiring on the 570x. Hopefully this helps explain how to connect things correctly. https://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=182609
  10. If you still plan on mounting the AIO on top then I would flip the fans on the AIO to intake instead of exhaust. Use the rear 120mm as exhaust. If the rest of the fans are set to intake you will have positive pressure inside the case and today's cases are more vented so air escapes easier. Positive pressure will help keep the internal components cooler and flipping the fans on top to intake will keep the CPU cooler. It will also help keep dust from building up inside the case. You can research positive and negative pressure on YouTube and get videos from Linus tech tips etc that explains it better. Also that case is designed to vertically mount a GPU. The metal isn't that thin there and sag on my 1080 is non existent. My 680x is my Plex server at home. It's on literally 24/7.. and I've monitored all the temps including the 6 HDD I placed in the rear chamber (I modded the case to house an additional 3 HDD) that is my only complaint with the case is lack of airflow in the rear chamber. I modded the back side panel to add an additional 120mm intake fan and 2 more 92mm fans (one front intake one rear exhaust) to keep drive temps at reasonable levels.
  11. Beautiful job there! looks amazing. =)
  12. I have a 680x with a GTX 1080 vertically mounted in mine. I have no issues with thermals vertically mounted with the two bottom fans installed as intake on the floor of the 680x. (Mine are also LL fans through out the case.) That case although some complain about the glass limiting airflow.. actually works very well and I have no thermal issues with any of my hardware in there and it runs 24/7 365. I would suggest mounting the AIO Radiator in the front instead of the top. You want to pull in cool ambient air across the radiator to keep the CPU as cool as possible. If you install it on the top you will be pushing warm air inside the case created by all the internal components through the radiator which in turn will increase the fluid temp. which equals a warmer CPU. I used a H150i Pro 360mm in the front of the case for the CPU and did the floor as intake and top and rear as exhaust and it has worked out great. Just something to consider. Installing the LL fans in the floor shouldn't affect you being able to vertically mount your GPU. You will need a Riser cable of course to make the necessary connection from GPU to Motherboard. Corsair has a very nice riser cable for that as well. https://www.corsair.com/us/en//Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/PC-Components/Power-Supplies/Premium-PCIe-3-0-x16-Extension-Cable-300mm/p/CC-8900419
  13. First of all Very nice looking build! Really like the QL fans as well. As for the Front Corsair Logo you may need to enable that in iCUE to get it to light. I don't know how you have that wired exactly but if you can elaborate on how and what it's connected to for lighting channels I may be able to help. It is possible to connect the LL and QL on the same hub. However the lighting effects are going to be off due to the lack of RGB on the backside of the LL fans. So some patterns in iCUE you may select may look off as you would have to set all the fans in iCUE to QL fans even though two are LL. Honestly.. I would save up a tad bit more and swap the two LL to QL, Sell the two LL and recoup some of your cost there. Then all the fans would be the same and the lighting effects would all work correctly. Also I would remove the Lighting Node Core and Keep the other RGB hub. That will also free up a USB 2.0 header for you as well as a extra SATA power connection and a RGB channel on your CoPro. Connect all the Fans to the RGB hub in order and set them up in iCUE on the lighting channel as QL fans and 6 connected. That should get them all lighted and working. Effects on the LL will be off a bit (due to the lack of LED on the back side) but should get them all working.
  14. Thank You. And Thanks for all your assistance during my build. Much Appreciated! newfiend~
  15. 678C Build Log 2019/2020 There are quite a few builds that utilize the Corsair 1000D. It is an amazing case and I would love to have one someday, but my budget just didn’t allow for anything that big.. And by budget.. I mean my wife. If I spent that kind of money on a case I would have to move into it and live there… permanently. And since I like hot food, running water and sleeping in-doors. I decided that I would do a build in a CORSAIR Carbide 678c. =) My old case was great.. a CORSAIR 600T. in fact I considered keeping it longer, but I just wanted something a bit more modern and everyone seemed to be moving to the nicer looking glass side panel cases and since I had decided to upgrade to better hardware it was just time for a fresh case. I liked the fact it looked sleek and had a nice side panel window, lots of room for storage, a Optical Drive Bay and sound deadening material to help keep things quiet. The removeable dust filters were also a nice touch and are easy to clean. This would be where the adventure started.. The build consists of the following when it was initially built and some added later when I moved to Hydro X. Corsair Carbide 678c Case. EVGA z390 Dark Motherboard EVGA RTX 2080Ti XC Intel i9 9900k 32GB CORSAIR Dominator Platinum RAM CORSAIR Commander Pro CORSAIR ML120 PRO LED fans (x3 in RED) CORSAIR ML140 PRO LED fans (x3 in RED) CORSAIR H150i PRO AIO (to start) CORSAIR RED custom cables to fit my HX1200i (now AX1200i) CORSAIR RED SATA cables and Premium Sleeved Front Panel Extension Kit in Red CORSAIR Premium PCIe 3.0 x16 Extension Cable 300mm CORSAIR RGB LED Lighting PRO Expansion Kit CORSAIR and BITSPOWER Fittings. Samsung EVO PLUS 500GB M.2 SSD Western Digital 14TB HDD for mass storage and games. 2 Western Digital 2TB HDD for Games (later removed) SONY Blu-Ray Burner (yes I still have Blu-Ray’s I want to play =P ) The initial build went well. No issues and everything went great in early 2019. Then summer hit. Ambient temps went up and so did my GPU temps. Anyone who owns a 2080Ti knows it is a small furnace that warms up case interiors like no GPU before it. Temperature on the GPU would quickly jump up to 80c and I just was not comfortable with that. CORSAIR had just dropped HYDRO X about a week after I finished my build with the AIO. I knew then and there I was going to eventually move to HYDRO X. It was just a matter of finding a way to afford it and not have to upset the significant other. In efforts to keep the peace at home and help my overly HOT GPU issue I decided to try a Hybrid cooler from EVGA to tame its temps. This was a great success and the GPU temp dropped from 80c gaming to the 50c range. And with CORSAIR’s great H150i PRO 360mm AIO my CPU temps were already great! Things were finally at good temps and I was happy. Except I was not a fan of how my PC looked. Having two AIO’s in this case made it very cramped looking inside. Airflow also suffered a bit due to all the added bulk. This is how it looked the day before my HYDRO X conversion started. I decided to pull the trigger on Hydro X. I loved the look and always wanted to do water cooling but was nervous about doing it. CORSAIR’s HYDRO X line made me feel like I could maybe pull this off finally and build a PC that not only performed how I liked but looked just as good. The first step was tear down and removal of the added Hybrid cooler. I ordered an EVGA HYDRO COPPER block from EVGA to fit my EVGA RTX 2080Ti XC. I liked the look of that block and I knew it would be an easy installation as it was designed to fit my card. Here is the card with Hydro Copper installed. I loved how it looked except the aluminum color on it. My plan was a RED and Black theme for my build so I decided the trim on the GPU had to be painted black. I took it apart and painted the silver trim flat black. It made it look much better in my opinion. I was excited at how well things were looking. I had spent about the last 4 months buying parts each week to do my HYDRO X conversion. CPU block one week, Radiators the next and so on until I had all the parts. This was the easiest way for me to get the result I wanted. It took awhile but I am happy with how it came out. Next was figuring out where everything would mount and installing the CPU blocks and radiators and fans, finding a location for the pump and then tube runs. I added an XR5 280mm Radiator to the top of the case with two 140mm ML PRO LED fans in red. And an XR5 360mm Radiator to the front of the case with 3 ML PRO LED fans also in red. This allowed me to still utilize an HDD bay in the front of the case to hold the 14TB HDD and allowed room for the pump to mount below it. I then began adding my fittings and tubes, a Barrowch Digital Flow Meter and Bitspower Digital Temp Sensor to help monitor flow rate and fluid temps. I next addressed the Vertical GPU. Once mounted it had a bit of sag to it. And I didn’t like how that looked. I decided to build a support for the GPU riser from aluminum. It helped level out the card and it looked better. This fits between the PSU shroud and GPU to level it out. It worked perfectly. I built a couple other custom brackets to help hold the GPU cables and 24 Pin Mainboard power connector wiring. I added in a custom drain port so I can more easily drain the loop when I need to do any type of maintenance. Here is the Drain Valve and back of the drain port in the basement of the 678c Here is the drain port. I can attach a fitting and hose here and drain the entire loop easily. This is the front side completed. I cleaned up the wiring the best I could and tried to keep things tidy. Not a lot of room back here so keeping it tidy is a necessity. The back side does not allow for much room for wiring but if you can keep it clean and tight it all fits great. This is it all lit up and working as it should. I am very pleased with how it came out and the quality and look of the Hydro X parts. After mounting everything and filling the loop, Great components from CORSAIR, Lots of help from Zotty, DevBiker and USNA92 over at the Corsair Case Owners Club Discord this is the end result. I received a lot of help there and if you have questions or need assistance with building it is a great place to check out on Discord. I have since upgraded PSU to an AX1200i and added an additional Samsung 2TB SSD for game storage. Temps are great now on both CPU and GPU. Air flow is much better and I love how it looks now. This is my first water cooled PC build but it definitely won’t be my last. newfiend~
  16. First lets start with Windows and make sure you don't have any corrupt system files. Open a elevated CMD prompt (type CMD in the search box on the task bar, right click it and run as Administrator) and then type: SFC /Scannow then hit Enter. Let it run and see if it reports any corrupt system files and if it repaired them successfully or not. Most of the tiime it will. If it reports it found corrupt system files and could not repair them you can then use the DISM command tool to repair your windows 10 installation. More information on how to use that here: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-dism-command-line-utility-repair-windows-10-image#dism_repair_image_windows10 After Windows is all ok. Then I would suggest you completely remove iCUE and reinstall and see if that fixes the issues you are having. Instructions on how to do that can be found here: https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025166712-Perform-a-clean-reinstallation-of-the-Corsair-Utility-Engine-iCUE- After removing iCUE then reinstall with the latest version. Hopefully this helps get you back to a working configuration. newfiend~
  17. This looks amazing. Been following this for some time. Proud of all your persistence working through all the issues you ran into along the way and finding ways to make it all fit and work. Amazing job!!
  18. Hello, Here are a couple things you can try. 1.) Disable Fast Startup to fix USB device failure The fast startup feature relates to hibernate and shutdown, which is designed to make computer boot faster. However, some users report that this feature makes computer performs so quickly that Windows 10 cannot detect USB device and the USB device descriptor failure appears. If that is the case, you can follow these steps to turn off fast startup. 1.) Press "Windows" key and "R" key from keyboard at the same time to open Run dialog box. 2.) Type "control" in searching box and click "OK" button. This will open Control Panel. 3.) Type "Power options" in the search box of Control panel and click "Change what the power buttons do" from searching result. 4.) Click "Change settings that are currently unavailable" link under Define power buttons and turn on password protection. 5.) Un-select "Turn on Fast Startup (recommended)" option under Shutdown settings and click "Save changes" button. Then restart computer and check if the USB device issue solves. 2.) Disable USB Selective Suspend Settings In some cases, operating system will put the USB port in low-power mode if the USB selective suspend setting is enabled. If so, the USB drive connecting to this port won't be able to work normally and cause USB device_descriptor_failure problem. To solve the problem we can try disabling this feature via following steps: 1.) Open Control Panel and click System Security, and you can find and click Power Options. If you are using laptop, you can right-click on battery icon and select Power Options. 2.) Expand "Show additional plans" and click "Change plan settings" link which belongs to High performance option. 3.) Click "Change advanced power settings" from the lower part. 4.) On the Advanced settings tab find and expand "USB settings". Then expand the sub-category "USB selective suspend setting". 5.) Select Disabled for both "On battery" and "Plugged in" settings. Click "OK" and "Apply" buttons and reboot computer See if either of these resolve the Mouse issue. newfiend~
  19. The top LED section on top of the PUMP pops off iirc.. you may get away with just getting that piece and replacing it. Might save the trouble of having to remove the entire pump to send it back. It's electronics.. sometimes things just go bad. Support should get you sorted. Good Luck! =)
  20. Hello You can order the fan direct from Corsair here: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Fans/AF-LED-Low-Noise-Cooling-Fan/p/CO-9050083-WW you can get them in a single or 3 pack. (drop down box there to select what you want). The 460x comes with one AF140L red LED and one AF120L fan. These should match up just get the correct size. If you decide to get a ML120 Pro it can hook up to the fan header on the motherboard no problem. newfiend~
  21. If you have it setup in iCUE for the lighting channel in the order I mentioned above and it is not lighting up when connected to the Pump RGB pass through cable I would contact Corsair Support. Something isn't working like it should there. Start a ticket for the pump and describe in detail what it is doing and what troubleshooting steps you have done. It will speed up the support departments ability to help you with your issue. newfiend~
  22. newfiend

    QL vs LL

    Here is a good video explaining the difference in LNC and LNP [ame] [/ame]
  23. newfiend

    QL vs LL

    The QL and LL are different in that the QL have more LED's on the back side of the Fan's this allows for more illumination inside the case. The RPM range on the LL is 600 - 1500 RPM, The RPM range on the QL is 525 - 1500 ±10% RPM. so fairly similar there. The LL fans (3-packs) come with a Lighting Node Pro and a RGB Fan hub that will control RGB on up to 6 Corsair fans. The QL (3-packs) come with a new lighting node Core.. this essentially combines the Lighting node Pro and RGB fan hub into one unit to help simplify installation as well. (one box instead of two to connect and hide). The QL are a premium looking fan compared to thee LL in my opinion but both are great quality LED fans. As for the cable. It will not work with a Lighting node Core that comes with the QL fans. However you can purchase a Lighting Node Pro from Corsair directly here. https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/iCUE-CONTROLLERS/CORSAIR-Lighting-Node-PRO/p/CL-9011109-WW If you want to add non Corsair fans and control them with iCUE and the cable you posted earlier. newfiend
  24. Have you verified in iCUE on the CoPro Lighting Setup tab for the Pump Lighting Channel that it has Hydro X Series in box 1, XD pump/Res Combo in box two, and 1 CPU Block connected in box 3?.. Just trying to verify here.. thanks, newfiend
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