c-attack
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Posts posted by c-attack
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This usually means the install is corrupted. There are two options that work for most people.
1) Reboot to safe mode and uninstall. This option is in the “recovery” section of your Windows settings and requires you to jump through a few menus. See if the Windows apps uninstaller will work from there. Then make sure you do the registry clean out described below.
https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025166712-iCUE-How-to-perform-a-clean-reinstallation-of-iCUE
2) Use a professional software removal tool like Revo Uninstaller. This will give you elevated permissions and force it out. It should get the underlying files as well, but make sure you check the registry to ensure the files mentioned in the link are gone. Most pro tools like Revo have a free version for basic operations and that should be sufficient.
Users often report one method above works and the other does not, with no clear pattern. In your position, I would probably try #2 first. If your CUE is still functional right now, make sure you export any valuable profiles before doing the above if you intend to reinstall. Everything will be deleted.
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2 hours ago, SenorJanko said:
but I am curious about the CPU fan connection which is occupied by the 1st hub in the system
Presumably this is for a CUE Link AIO you have in your system. That is not a power delivery connection. It’s a tachometer wire only, to satisfy the motherboard’s “CPU boot protection” feature. It won’t let you boot up unless something is connected to cpu fan. That wire reports a pump speed to the bios in order fulfill that obligation.
All you’ll need is a usb 2 for communication and another 6 pin pci-e for power — and more CUE Link cables.
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The theoretical heat dissipation from a radiator is influenced the by the temperature of the air entering the intake side of the radiator. In simple terms, if you blow 31C air into a radiator, you will make the liquid temp 31C too. As a result, the exhaust air temp from the intake rad will have a negative effect on the other two. It looks like your intake rad in front is last in the chain, so it's liquid temp should be about 2C lower than the other radiator liquid temps and thus cooling still occurs in all three rads. You've set it up the best you can for 1 intake + 2 exhaust.
I think the only variation worth trying (and without heavy remodeling) is to flip the front fans to exhaust as well and turn the rear fan around to intake. You'll be heavy on the exhaust side, but it will pull air in from the all the openings. Is it going to substantially change your temps? No. Best case scenario might be a 2-3C shift and nearly all of that will be from the reduction of internal ambient temperature with no radiators dumping their heat into the case. This also may not be ideal if you have the rear of the case backed up to a wall or some other location where the intake air from the rear is warm.
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Elite Capellix XT models and the new CUE Link devices (like the RX fans) are from different generations. Only CUE Link products work with the CUE Link hub and only the prior LL, QL, SP/AF/ML-Elite fans work with the Elite Capellix and all other controllers. There is no reason you can't run both controllers and they will both appear in CUE as separate devices with separate chains of fans. However, if you prefer the no wires CUE Link stuff, you should at least take a look at the CUE Link H170i models.
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Unfortunately this is a somewhat common issue and a physical problem with the wheel. If you are still in the warranty period for the mouse, start a support ticket with Corsair as a means to replace it. If you are out of warranty, there are quite a few posts and videos that talk about how to clean the scroll wheel.
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Yes, it’s normal for that model. The pump rpm displayed is a predicted value for 60 sec based on a 2 sec sample. That specific model rounds it revolution value to the nearest whole number before multiplying by 30. As a result, changes in pump speed always move in 30 rpm chunks — 2100-2100-2130-2100, etc. It only takes little differences like 70.4-70.4-70.5-70.4 revolutions per 2 seconds to create that. This is not the same as a pump with 100-300 rpm shifts per interval.
As mentioned above, CUE graphing auto zooms in and makes that inconsequential change look mountainous.
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Yes, keep them linked to coolant temp. The cpu is cooled conductively by transferring heat from the lid to the cold plate and in the liquid stream. The rest of the AIO (liquid, radiator, fans) are all waste heat disposal. They dump out the accumulated heat so the cpu temp does not increase beyond its current level, but you can’t stop the cpu from heating up in the first place. Fans do not cool the cpu.
Normal liquid temp is a cool case is typically 4-7C above your room temp or the equal to the case internal ambient temp. It can be lower than the air inside. In a normal cpu only test, you might go +5C on a cpu only 200-253W cpu max test. Where you likely see higher coolant temps is when gaming or any extended gpu load. This is not because of increased cpu heat but gpu heat raising the internal temp.
Coolant temp is the lowest possible cpu temp with zero volts. Intel cpus will float a few degrees over that. Ryzen idle much higher. +1C to coolant = +1C to cpu temp, so don’t be overly concerned about micro managing the fans. Set a quiet 500-600 rpm for your normal idle temp zone. Start ramping up 3C higher than that. Set a comfortable fan speed around your normal max coolant temp. That’s probably +7-10C and 140 fans starting getting noisy as you pass 1200 rpm. No reason to do much more than that.
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Your coolant hit 40C. On these older GT/VTX models that creates an automatic max fan response. There’s nothing special about 40C unless you are testing it on a bench outside a case. Inside the case in an exhaust position, you’re very likely to get there with extended gpu load and rising case temps.
Cluck the yellow + bar to make a new custom curve. A graph will appear below. Go down to the bottom and change the “sensor” to H80i GT temp (coolant temp). Then in the lower right corner, choose one of those shape tools. Those are the presets. Choose the quiet one. Now you can see the control points and move them. You also have access to fixed speed which will be an easy way to see if the fan controller is still working.
You can relax the top part of the curve so it does not max out at 40C. However, the better question is should it be at 40C at all? As these AIOs reach there end of life, most start to loose fluid speed through the unit. The temp slowly gets worse over time. If you cold boot up in the morning in a 20C room and the liquid temp is already 40C, the AIO is dying. With no load coolant temp should be about the same as the internal case temp — usually 4-7C over your room temp with no additional heat factors.
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I’m certainly not loving that tone, but recordings can be really tricky with actual volume. Regardless, if you’re sitting at your desk and all you can hear is that with the case closed up — you need to make a change.
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Don’t worry about the “likes” and “is your question solved stuff”. It’s not important.
One thing that might help is if you upload a couple pictures of the connections so we can see the cable from hub to radiator to fans. I know it seems like I’m pestering you about this, but it is the problem on so many of these and many very experienced users have done the same on the first setup. When the hub is bad or there is a software error, you won’t see the hub and half the devices. Nothing would show. That’s the strongest clue this has to be wiring — either wrong ports or bad cable.
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Your coolant temperature (H115i CUE Link Temp) is in the mid 50s in both shots. This is substantially over the normal max without any load. It wouldn’t take much more to bump you to 60C and trigger an alarm (60C is product limit).
Its reading pump so it must have power, but there appears to some type of low flow state or mechanical problem preventing the liquid from moving at the proper speed. You might be able to observe this on a cold boot. The coolant will start about the same as the QX “air temp” or case ambient temp, but it will start ramping up at power on and continuously climb until it’s hits the 50s — all with minimal load. It should take several hundred watts for an extended duration with minimal fans to raise the liquid temp by 20C. The only other ways to create this condition is to trap the heat in the radiator, either by sealing something against it or possible running to sets of fans on opposite sides of the radiator, each working against the other.
Contact Corsair Support to file a warranty claim and get a replacement. Make you note that liquid temp and mention the QX temp suggests the ambient temp is 20C less. That is the piece of info that excludes normal environmental factors like heating up the case with the gpu, etc. It also looks like the radiator is front mounted as intake, so gpu heat should not be a huge part of its temp. The QX fans on the front are a measure of intake air temp and the two exhaust exit air temp. Clear evidence this is not an internal temp problem.
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Go ahead and start a Support Ticket. There's no way for any of us to be sure about the cause of the problem. However, over the 9 months this product has been live, nearly all issues of this type have been user install errors or a bad cable. You've tried a different hub, you do have some functionality with it, but it's not picking up all the devices. It's not going to be some type of unique software error that only affects you. All I can recommend is looking at a lot of online videos to see how they have connected things.
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1 hour ago, David54321 said:
did not see a specific option to set any +-12 second delays between the degrees settings mentioned above. Why is it important to make such a delay between them? And how do I do that?
I don't know why Asus hide this. It is in the "Advanced BIOS (F7) -> Monitoring. You go down to the specific fan header (CHA_1 or whatever) and there are some "spin up/down or hysteresis" delays. This makes the fan wait those 12 seconds after a temp change before it reacts to a change in speed. Nothing in the case is so sensitive it can overheat in 12 seconds without a massive fan speed increase. The one theoretical exception is if you run a small CPU air cooler. However, when connected to CPU FAN and OPT as you would, those specific headers have different delays (max of 8 seconds) and will ignore your directions if the CPU temp changes rapidly enough or breaks the temp limit. These 12 sec delays on the CHA fan headers will keep the case fans from spiking with a program load and keep them at baseline speeds for longer. Setting it up in the BIOS can be tricky. If you plan to reinstall Armory Crate, the Spin Up/Down delays in Armory Crate are much easier to apply and pretty visible. You can do it easily from there.
1 hour ago, David54321 said:Also, I'd like to understand- are you saying here that the Armoury Crate program is NOT recommended to use on a PC?
I don't have a lot of love for it and if you search around in this forum you'll see a lot of old posts where I recommend dropping it, especially when you have multiple Corsair controllers to do the same job and must use CUE. You are in the opposite camp. You don't have any need for CUE with this hardware and Armory Crate and it's sub level programs AI Suite, Fan Xpert, etc. all have real value for you. It will control the fan lighting, fan speed, report data, as well as control normal MB functions. AC stays, CUE goes.
1 hour ago, David54321 said:What is the ideal/healthy/normal temperature the CPU and GPU should be in when NOT using heavy programs on the PC (such as video games etc) but doing simple things like browsing, writing a Word doc etc? Around how high in Celsius would be normal/fine/healthy for CPU and GPU?
This varies quite a bit based on model. Let me know what you are running for CPU and GPU and I will try to give you a range. GPUs are really all the same and they sit at case ambient temp when not loaded. Some larger, higher watt air cooled models may hover around 40C on the desktop, but the actual temp at 20 or 40C is irrelevant. Minimum voltage and watts there. No cooling needed. Most will turn off their own fans at those temps. On the high end, the last two generations of Nvidia GPUs have specific temp X = clock speed Y drop off points. You are not benchmarking the GPU, so that isn't super important up until you get near the 70-90C+ temps and those power drop offs get larger. However, the GPU's own fans do all the cooling. The case fans help get the waste heat out of the case to prevent it from being worse. You can try using your "motherboard temp" in AI Suite (or most other monitors) as a measure of case ambient temp. If you start at 27C and it now reads 40C when doing Task X, you've likely increased case temp quite a bit and could use some more fan speed. On the other hand, if the CPU is working hard but the internal temp does not increase you only need more CPU cooler fan speed -- not case fan speed.
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Try re-running the “set up wizard” from the CUE link device page. It is supposed to happen automatically on power on, but sometimes does not.
99% of these are new setup errors or occasionally a bad link cable. If you have an extra link cable, you can try swapping it out.
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You will need the Capellix specific LCD top. The CUE Link version only works on CUE link AIOs.
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Someone else recently posted with a similar issues and managed to trace it back to that same program. Not something I would have guessed and it had not come up before. This is good info and hopefully we can spread the word.
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23 hours ago, CptCoral said:
but I connected the leftmost port of the radiator to a port in the Link hub and the rightmost port to the other port in the hub.
That’s the error and a common one. You have the AIO connected twice and the fans not at all. The radiator ports are for the pump top. The fans need their own connection. Think of the radiator as a passthrough port in the chain of pump and fans. One end may come from or go to the hub, but the other port needs to connect to the fans.
It needs to be hub -> radiator -> fans
or hub -> fans -> radiator.
The two “channels” on the hub are for separate power handling You don’t need to link them together. In theory you could put fans on one channel and the AIO on the other — two separate circuits. The software then allows you to virtually re-arrange them.
See if this helps. Go down to the part about the CUE system hub installation.
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/explorer/diy-builder/cpu-coolers/icue-link-h100i-h115i-h150i-h170i-rgb-aio/#p-data-block-keybw1mgsystem-hub-installationp -
With CUE link installed, does the AIO show in Link? You should have fan speed control and that’s its real purpose.
However, Link support ended 5-6 years ago. You might be better off trying to use CUE 4.33 from the downloads page. I have no idea if the old Link is still viable.
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Device detection is about the USB pathway from device to motherboard. X570 boards have been notoriously difficult with this since their arrival and a lot of users need a powered internal usb hub to keep a steady voltage. However, typically when this is in play you get frequent dropouts or an inconsistent connection versus none at all. Does the CUE Link hub show in CUE?
Look in the software modules section (CUE settings) and see if the AIO is listed. That will tell us if the device was ever detected at all. Do the fans show in CUE? The most common error with setting up these new Link AIOs is not routing the circuit through the radiator.
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Nearly all Asus boards have auto detect PWM/DC headers. They are not infallible and can make a mistake. However, if three fans in three different headers suddenly max out inappropriately, it’s more likely a software issue and not PWM/DC detection error in three separate headers at the same time.
Where this can get really entangled is Armory Crate works with the bios on a deep level and can override the bios settings and commands. If something goes wrong with AC, it can scramble the bios too. Getting Armory Crate out of your system is hard, although the full windows wipe will certainly do it. However, if AC went wonky prior to this, it may have written a bad curve to the BIOS. I would load into the bios and see what it has assigned in the EZ bios QFan section. There also are manual settings for PWM and DC in the same place. While you’re there, use any +-12 second delays you see. That will prevent the fans from cycling up and down incessantly with cpu temp.
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It is going to be covered by Amazon and/or the seller's warranty. It's fairly short in either case. Corsair used to sell their renewed products on Amazon and that was different, but I don't think that program is still in place. Corsair does sell their own renewed products ("revival") and those do come with a Corsair warranty, although usually in modified form.
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Fans are not magical. Your motherboard general control software is running a control program for them. Presumably you are using it or you would not have RGB control over the strip or fans. You need to go in there and see the fan curve. You also may want to look and your full screen shot from above and see if you got a CPU temp figure in the capture. It is the most likely thing to have changed in any one moment. It's possible your motherboard software program had a moment and got stuck with all fans at maximum, but that is their software issue. You haven't identified what board and program you are using, but you don't need CUE and it is likely better you don't run it.
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2 hours ago, David54321 said:
did a little research and found out that connecting a LED strip to the 12v connector could indeed effect the power supply of the motherboard and hence the fans
No, this should not happen. The power required to run a couple of 12v strips is minuscule and should have no impact on anything other than the light in the case.
The AR fans are designed to be controlled for speed any lighting by your motherboard. They do not have a CUE connection and won’t show there. Any changes in fan speed control come from your motherboard. It seems like you are likely using default motherboard curves and those are usually based on cpu temp, with the sole purpose being to control the cpu air cooler. CPU temp is not a good control variable for case fans because of its extremely dynamic nature. I am not sure what other options you have, but your MB control program should have some other choices.
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Ok. Even if there is a registered pump speed, if you power on and the cpu temp starts climbing and never stops, this is a zero or low flow state and an AIO issue. Could be a blockage or the pump impeller may have broken (usually very noisy). This occurs with minimal cpu load. Sit on the desktop and you can watch the cpu temp skip toward 100. Once there, you cannot cool it down except by leaving the PC off for hours.
This is in contrast to “the cpu temp is too high when doing _____” or when gaming g the gpu temp continues to increase. Those are voltage or environmental issues and can be addressed by the user.
Save all software to hardware assignements
in CORSAIR iCUE
Posted
Hardware and software functions for Lighting and Assignments have different capabilities. With the aid of system resources, software options are at maximum. When in hardware mode, the individual device must be able to execute the action from its own memory and processor. This varies from device to device and each is coded in CUE to only permit actions that can be completed in hardware mode.
They took steps to try and guide users to the correct end path and presumably part of that is preventing a user from attempting to continuously copy a software action to hardware and not understanding why it fails. The libraries do allow you to copy/paste in the respective modes, so at least you only need to create the complex macros once per mode. Most peripheral hardware requires an active write to save the data to the device. Auto saving with macros might be problematic to save as you go creating a lot of writes.