Jump to content
Corsair Community

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/18/2021 in Posts

  1. Hey all, I'm a big fan of Corsair stuff I must say. I've had numerous cases and peripherals over the years, and i'm quite happy with everything. In fact on the reddit/r/corsair sub, I recently posted my new 5000x /w XD7 build. Huge amount of Corsair stuff inside the case, as well as keyboard / mouse / headset. I even picked up a Nexus yesterday for monitoring. (That I think is fantastic for what it does, for what I need.) BUT FOR THE LOVE OF ANYTHING HOLY! Please, please, please fix or enable the ability to SAVE the bl00dy HOME page and DASHBOARD layouts. EVERY time, I reboot, or even lock my workstation and come back, not only is the layout reset, but all the sensors and graphs that I have lovingly ordered to my preference, have gone back to some ordering that Icue thinks is better than me. That's it isn't, the the icue stuff is silently judging you. Also, the Multi / Single OCP settings on my ax1500i, well they just don't work.
    3 points
  2. Hey there everyone! DevBiker from deep in the heart of Texas and I'm just starting down the path of rebuilding my rig into a Corsair 7000 series case. I've gotten my hands on the iCUE 7000X RGB in white as well as the front and top panels for the 7000D Airflow editions (also in white, though black may have been an interesting contrast). I do plan on playing around with it a bit ... to rearrange things a bit and rebuilt it several times, looking at different options. Over the next month or so - before I do the actual build - I'll be playing around with the case and measuring things and seeing how different things may or may not fit. I'm not going to go over all the marketing fluff - except for a single Obligatory Marketing Image - because y'all can read all of that stuff on all the various reviews that are out there. So with that ... this should also be a discussion. What ideas do y'all have for the 7000? I've already talked with one other forum member that was looking to put a monitor screen on the PSU window and I got some measurements for that. You'll that info in the FAQ as well (under PSU installation) I'm using the new Album feature for the FAQ; comments are enabled for each photo so you can ask questions there or here. It's best to view the Album by Caption. I like the List View, personally. Table of Contents - each link points to the first image in the 'section' . 0001: Intro, Marketing Image, in the Box 0002: Devices, including the Commander Core XT 0003: Motherboard Mounts 0004: PSU Shroud, including vertical GPU mounting 0005: PSU Installation 0006: Drive Cages and SSD Mounts 0007: Front Fans and Radiators 0008: Side Fans and Radiators 0009: Top Fans and Radiators 0010: Outer Glass and Panels (In Progress ...) Corsair 7000 Series Cases / HydroX Options : This is an ongoing list of different configurations with HydroX and the 7000 series cases. Diagrams: RGB Diagram for 7000X with 2x XR5 420mm Much thanks to the folks at Corsair as well for helping with this by answering questions and providing a LOT of goodies for this build!! Links to the 7000 Series Product Pages: iCUE 7000X RGB Tempered Glass in Black and White. 7000D AIRFLOW in Black and White. The system that will be going through this will be my main rig: Asus Zenith II Extreme ThreadRipper 3970X with HydroX XC9 8x 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB @ 3466Ghz nVidia RTX 3090 Founder's Edition with HydroX XG7 (I paid MSRP for this!) MP600 1TB (System Drive) MP600 1TB [This will be replaced with an MP600 Core 2TB] MP510 960GB [This will be replaced with an MP600 Core 2TB] Sabrent Rocket Q 2TB Seagate Ironwolf NAS 10TB I have lots of RGB in there (of course) but all that's likely going to be replaced. I've even got 4 LL140 RGB fans in there from way back just after the LLs actually launched ... and they are still going. Those things have seen some use. On of them even has an RGB cable that I had to cut and re-crimp because I snipped the wire. I've got Commander Pros, Lighting Node Pros and Fan Hubs that are around 4 years old or so ... still going. Of course there's gonna be a ton of Corsair in here because that's just how I roll. None of y'all are going to be surprised by that in the least.
    2 points
  3. I run the Pro on balanced not quiet and its still silent. I run my fans on silent though and you cannot hear anything. Cappelix looks amazing but the noise is terrible so had to go.
    2 points
  4. Since the problem is known, I would have expected the support to react faster. I have received the confirmation mail, but in my account it says that I do not have a support ticket. Apparently the service is as bad as the software they deliver. If the headphones don't work again on Tuesday, I will send them back. Unfortunately, I already have to give a bad rating because the description makes everyone fall into the trap, even if the headphones are actually good.
    2 points
  5. Oh my God, I stepped in the same shit. I hope the German support is faster than the forum. I was able to use the headset for 20 minutes. After so much research, I guess I chose the wrong manufacturer after all. With any other manufacturer, you can download the FW yourself, here it seems to be a company secret. I hope for a quick solution, otherwise they will go straight back to the dealer with a corresponding evaluation.
    2 points
  6. remember the PSU rating is always given just for the 12V rail(s). If you get a 850W, it's 850W on 12V. You'll still have on top of that the usual 25A at 5V (125W). So you don't really "need" to calculate anything, unless you're working with a massive case with 20 or 30 QL fans that will slam the 5V rail. as for the 12V power draw, fans will never reach their max rating unless you run them at full speed and block them all at once. The pump will be the only real power draw since it's constantly under load, but even then.. only at max speed will you see something close to 30W 🙂
    2 points
  7. Had some time to play around with HS80 and came up with this one.
    2 points
  8. hey i just bought Katar PRO KT mouse about 1 week ago , everything was working fine the mouse is good but then i opened icue software to change my dpi and i saw software update for Katar PRO on icue, then i have it updated but suddenly my mouse is not working after the update(mouse rgb on the scroll wheel is not on, i cant move the cursor or click anything,BUT i can see the sensor's light underneath the mouse), the app told me to replug the mouse but nothing happened after i do that, i tried to reinstall icue with clean install but the mouse still not working can somebody help me? sorry for my bad english
    1 point
  9. Take your time and evaluate what you have. There won’t be any additional hardware required if you add a different fan type. If you really like the LL, then it may be enjoyable to add them to the front, but then I suspect it won’t be long until you want 2 more for the top. On the other hand, one more SP-Elite makes the case uniform from front to back. You’ll have to see.
    1 point
  10. "Fry" is certainly an appropriate term. English, being the super-confusing, contorted language that it is, has several different words and phrases for the same thing and "fry" is just as good as any of them! I think you'll be OK, though. SATA does provide 5V power and that SATA power cable only has one wire. Also, the connector that is on there is the right one for Corsair strips and I really doubt that it'll cause an issue (or they'd not put it in the box).
    1 point
  11. I saw on a thread on the LTT forums someone asking about ICUE in linux, and Nick, the corsair affiliate over there, said for the OP to gather linux users to post over here to voice our desire for linux support. So here I am. Here's the thing about garbage market share numbers: for one, they're obviously not at all accurate. Steam (and some other stat reporters) list linux at around 1 percent, however their methodology is flawed, and then you take something like the Humble Bundle, who reports up to 15 percent of their sales come from Linux. Which is insane given that most of the games they sell don't even run on linux natively. Further, in the enthusiast, general computer-loving community, linux has a far greater proportion of users. Even just releasing a minimal client for things like RGB and fan control, even if it's just something as simple as communicating using the dbus interface, would be all that's necessary to support linux, we can do the rest ourselves. Further, it's been shown time and time again (the Humble numbers are one great example), that when a manufacturer, platform, or developer shows that they are willing to even give token support to linux, we will absolutely throw all the money at that manufacturer/platform/developer. Linux users more than any other group will do most of the work for you, and gladly contribute back as much, if not more, than we are given in terms of support/advancing any software. That's the nature of open-source. Even if you want to release your software on linux under a proprietary license, we will still do a ton of the work and handle most of the support, that's the nature of linux. We just need at minimum the means to do that. Please, please consider doing something like this. Vendor-specific RGB control software is one of the last creature comfort things we are lacking in linux, and treating us as the first-class citizen we deserve to be treated as will give an outsized benefit
    1 point
  12. De la segunda manera ya que la bomba estaria bajo las mangueras. La verdad es que no deberia de importar mucho, pero si hay la opcion entonces asi estaria mejor. -Art
    1 point
  13. At least one of the wires in that bundle is a fan hub cable, which won't help you. It only has two wires. As for the length - once you hit about 1.5 - 2.0m, you'll start seeing enough voltage drop to be noticeable. But it should work.
    1 point
  14. @c-attackIt's not at the top anymore, but it's still in the footer. https://help.corsair.com
    1 point
  15. Now that it's getting cooler, how are you adjusting your battlestation accordingly? Are you adding a fall touch? Show your desk, setup, fan orientation, room setups etc. with that extra pumpkin spice touch?
    1 point
  16. 6,000 DPI. But you can configure it in iCUE so, really, it's "up to 6,000 DPI"
    1 point
  17. As for the additional 4 pin EPS12V, it's never needed, unless you do some extreme overclocking under liquid nitrogen, pushing extreme voltages to the CPU or something of that nature. The single 8 pin can already feed over 300W, and that powers only the CPU, nothing else. All the power for RGB, fans etc come from the 24 pin motherboard connector.
    1 point
  18. Once you do sort your fans, you'll want to set your fan curve to use the pump temperature not the CPU temperature. The fans on the radiator don't cool the CPU ... they cool the liquid, which then cools the CPU. So you want to speed up/slow down your fans based on the pump/coolant temperature. That will also give you a much smoother curve.
    1 point
  19. Danke euch beiden für die schnelle Hilfe
    1 point
  20. Hola, Confirma por favor que el kit especifico aparezca en el QVL para la placa: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards-Components/Motherboards/TUF-Gaming/TUF-GAMING-B550-PLUS-WI-FI/HelpDesk_CPU/ Si se puede, usa un solo modulo en cualquier puerto disponible y trata de actualizar el bios. -Art
    1 point
  21. Hi aXa, We are always looking at what the customers are asking for and I will most definitely forward your feedback here to the team. I personally also like silent keyboards as they are quite useful in some situations.
    1 point
  22. In a best case scenario, you might get 1-3C on changing from a normal product to premium. The larger the CPU die and the higher the CPU wattage, the more likely this helps by a few degrees. So for an AMD 3600x, you don’t bother. For a Threadripper or high core Intel, it might be. Just keep in mind there are no miracles with this or we would all be using the more expensive brand.
    1 point
  23. The pump should stay around 2800-2900 on Performance and 1900-2000 on Quiet. You can use either you wish with noise vs performance in mind. Now for the fans... The coolant temperature values are going to be strange to you and an awful lot of your value is going to come from the GPU waste heat vs actual CPU wattage into the unit. There is a 40C=100% line programmed into the preset curves, but 2700 rpm is too much to take for most people and no matter what, you can't reduce coolant below ambient temperature. That means you are spinning your wheels for no reason. My suggestion is you set a fixed fan speed that is acceptable to you for noise before gaming. There are too many other things in play with rear mount exhaust to expect it to follow any programmed curve. Pick something you can stand. There is not going to be a meaningful cooling difference between 1800 and 1500 rpm for the CPU, but it may be very noticeable for noise. Over time, you will discover the normal range of coolant temp and will be able to make a more precise curve if you want it. To that end, you can also improve the preset curve now. I am trying to remember how to do custom curves in Link. You may need to click on the fan RPM reading in the picture above and a pop up will show. You can create a custom curve based on the quiet curve, but soften the top end so it does not run 2700 at 40C. Push that out to 50C. Anything more than 1800 rpm is not going to be helpful for CPU cooling in this configuration. Make sure the sensor/control variable is set to H80i v2 Temp and not CPU temp.
    1 point
  24. Yes, instead of showing up in CUE with the AIO Pump picture, it will display like a Commander Pro showing the controller. Everything else works the same. 6 PWM headers. 6 RGB headers. Too bad only 1 temp sensor, but then you may not need it. You might have to tell us more about what your looking for in the Hardware Lighting set-up. Using it or any other controller won't change the end result. The HW lighting is 1 set programming for each effect, so different fan types with different LED counts look different under the same effect. Some things like Rainbow Wave are nothing like their software version. No cure for that presently.
    1 point
  25. All in all, I can highly recommend this headset to everyone. Sound is top notch for wireless and the comfort is amazing!
    1 point
  26. Thank you, I appreciate it. But I can live with that. I mean the mic quality is really good and just noticed a little bit of hiss and thought maybe it could be lowered a little bit with future updates, but if not I'm still fine with it. I mean, it is still the best wireless headset mic with the one from virtuoso. The hiss also got better now.
    1 point
  27. Sorry to hear you're experiencing this issue. I've created a ticket for you, so our support can further look into this and provide assistance.
    1 point
  28. Yes, exactly. Alternatively, you can use a powered PWM hub but you shouldn't need to go that route with 9 fans. Who is "they"? You can put LL's on the Commander Core but you can't mix the fans (at least, not right now). But even with splitters, you have too many fans for the power delivery on the Commander Core to handle. So you'd need to put at least some of them on a fan hub, which the Commander Core won't control. That's correct. You can make your own or get them from PirateDog Tech (https://piratedog.tech). These are pretty standard PWM splitters. Any PWM splitters will work.
    1 point
  29. The tubings can't be removed. they are crimped in place at the factory. you'd have to cut them and somehow fit quickconnects or fittings. Also, an AIO pump is barely enough for a CPU block. It isn't even close to having enough flow and pressure to feed water to a GPU water block on top of that. the GPU would overheat immediately. Finally, 240mm radiator is just too small to deal with the heat from a 5700 XT and a CPU. You'd need at least a 360, or more Basically you'd need a more powerful pump, a bigger rad, and proper fittings and tubes... basically a custom loop ^^'
    1 point
  30. Thanks for bringing this up. We'll look into it.
    1 point
  31. Hello, in my virtuoso XT the bluetooth turn off After 10 minutes when i use it with my smartphone, Can you tell me how to fix this problem. Thank's for your help.
    1 point
  32. New PSUs will often emit a smell which can be due to flux, adhesives or other materials used in manufacturing. This will typically go away with time and use, however there is no exact time frame. As long as the PSU does not smell like it's burning, there should be nothing to worry about.
    1 point
  33. The Hardware Actions menu is for hardware profiles that are only in effect when the iCUE software is not running so long as you saved the profile to the onboard memory. If you wish for the action to work with iCUE running then you need to just utilize the Actions menu as that is what is active when iCUE is running.
    1 point
  34. Thanks buddy, but closing iCue, restarting the service, rebooting, creating a new profile, whatever. Nothing keeps the layout of the dashboard or the home screen for me. The functionality just doesnt exist within the software. We need an "Export/Save" layout function. People have been complaining or asking for this for some time.
    1 point
  35. @Leviathan1usa, read the a few posts up :)
    1 point
  36. Other than the radiator fans that need to be connected to Commander Core to maintain their programming when CUE is not running, you can arrange the other PWM connectors in any way you like. Each PWM header is individually programmable and has no connection to the RGB wire or where you connect that. However, since the both Commanders device pages will have RGB and PWM settings, it may make sense to put the PWM connector on the same controller as the RGB to make it easier to keep track of where things are, but that's not a requirement. Regarding radiator placement, the ideal position for a 360mm AIO in the O11 will be side wall intake for most people with an air cooled GPU. If you place it in the top, you will be funneling both MB hardware and GPU waste heat through the CPU cooling path. With large GPU loads, this can heat the coolant up well beyond what it would be with the CPU load alone. I can be as much as a 5-10C penalty to the CPU. Bottom mount as intake is problematic as it makes the pump and CPU block the high point in the system and you don't want air trapped in the CPU block. That leaves the side mount position. You can run this as side exhaust too, but in my testing the small side glass poses some measure of restriction to cooling efficiency. It may also still pull GPU waste heat its way, particularly with large GPUs that extend into its zone. However, this would still be better than top mount exhaust by several degrees. Side mount intake is the best choice for most people using 9 fans. You still have a strong intake flow from the bottom and can run the side fans with only their CPU/coolant duties in mind. It is not a critical part of the airflow, like when you front mount it in a standard case. This pushes GPU waste heat away from the radiator, you have plenty of free active exhaust above with the 3x120, and with 6 fans intake vs 3 exhaust you will be able to push excess GPU heat out the back venting without needing an active rear slot fan. The only time where this might not work is if you have to push the back panel side of the case against a wall or in a cabinet where the intake air for the radiator is going to be as warm or warmer than the air in the case. The other thing is since you are going all QL, you don't have to worry about the "pretty vs the ugly" side of the fan. The back of QL looks just as good as the front. In fact, I like it better.
    1 point
  37. Hi Orso, You should try booting the keyboard in BIOS mode and see if that resolves things. Which K55 do you have? For the older K55, Hold Winlock + F1 for 5 secs to toggle BIOS modes. For the K55 Pro and Pro XT, unplug the keyboard, hold down S + B, then Plug back in and then release the keys. This should allow functionality in a non-OS environment.
    1 point
  38. It doesn't matter how anal you are about taking care of your systems. The gunk would be inside and can build up, regardless of what you do and no amount of taking care of your systems can change that - you cannot flush or refill the radiator. So just be prepared ... we've seen this happen time and time and time again.
    1 point
  39. Ja der Staub ist bei den „Glasgehäuse“ echt ein Nachteil. Aber durch die Lüfter am Boden und an der Decke (in Verbindung mit dem Hinteren Lüfter) kannst du einen guten Airflow aufbauen. Wenn du möchtest können wir dir dabei helfen. Die PSU ist zwar in der Kammer versteckt, aber viel mehr Wärme als üblicherweise wird sie nicht ans übrige Gehäuse abgeben. Für mich stellt sich die frage ob dir der Lüfter der Psu zu laut ist wenn du den Lüfter permanent auf 75-100% stellst ?
    1 point
  40. It would be nice if you could change the Nexus screen based upon a selected profile or even have a macro option that selects a particular Nexus screen. Essentially, I want a particular Nexus screen displayed when I start a particular game.
    1 point
  41. What’s the largest figurine/figure you have put in your build? Do you have any tips on keeping it safe from the heat/disfiguration? I think the worry I have the most with any of my figurines is the heat tolerance. Hence why I’m usually just leaving my figurines in cases that are open and exposed. Also, yes it's a Nendoroid.
    1 point
  42. So glad you got your issue solved, I know how frustrating it is! You would at least think @Corsair would see this thread and throw some swag my way for helping solve several peoples problems!
    1 point
  43. I have this issue with Corsair Virtuoso. Both wireless,usb and 3.5mm. Even tested with connecting the 3.5mm through ST100. Seems to only happen with custom EQ when im using a high bass setting and also with bass boost eq preset. The sound will go suddenly loud for a short time and then normal and then loud again. Its not an extreme loudness but it is annoying. Also does not happen if i terminate icue. But then nothing else works properly either with my rgb or fan settings. Its not a constant problem some days it works just fine. I also tried installing icue 4 but no difference. Dont know if its icue or the headset itself that is causing the issue anyone have an idea of what more i can try?
    1 point
  44. Ordered a prebuilt from a UK System Integrator despite building my own PC's for 15 years in order to get a GPU and closer to MSRP and much quicker. Its a Lian Li O11 Dynamic Midi Tower White, with a Ryzen 7 5800x, Asus Strix Gaming F x570 motherboard, 4x 8gb sticks of Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3200mhz DDR4, Asus Strix RTX 3090 OC, 512GB Samsung 980 Pro NVME (Gen4) for OS, 2TB Samsung 970 Evo NVME (Gen 3) for Games Storage and I will transfer from current build 2x 3TB Toshiba 7200rpm HDD's for Media. As this SI doesn't have all the parts I want I will order the following items separately. 10x Corsair Black Framed QL120 RGB fans, an iCUE Commander Pro and an NZXT Kraken Z73. Sorry Corsair, but I fell in love with the Kraken Z73 so no Corsair AIO for me this time with this build. So the plan is basically this aesthetically speaking though some parts differ from the build in the video: [ame] [/ame] There is room in this case to run the 360mm Radiator in Push/Pull if I decide to put the Rad in the Side mounting point to the right of the Mobo in that Vid. So my 10x QL120's would be all the visible fans in the case like the VID (10th Fan as another exhaust over IO Shield) but I would also have the 3x NZXT Radiator fans hidden on the backside of the Radiator. So the question is how to wire all that up. Do the Nodes that come with the 3x 3Packs of QL120's combined with the CoPro cover the RGB connections for the 10 QL120's? Can the CoPro in combination with some PWN Y splitters or a seperate PWM Controller cover the 13 fans? Ideally I want to be able to control all 6 fans on the Radiator (ie. 3x QL120's and 3x NZXT Rad fans) with the iCUE or NZXT Control software such that they are based off of the Water temperature and not the CPU or Core Package temps. Back in the day with my Corsair H110GT cooling a 6700K, no matter what fan curve I set the fans would ramp up and down even in google chrome on a media heavy web page. It was only when I realised that it should actually be based off of the AIO Water temp which is much more stable, did my fan ramping issue get solved. I would like to maintain that functionality with this new PC. WHats the best way to achieve that? All 6 rad fans connected to CoPro headers and the other 7 case fans on a separate Fan controller. Or those 7 case fans connected to the CoPro (with 1 Y splitter) and the 6 Rad fans on a separate controller connected to where it needs to be for the NZXT AIO Control software to manage the rad fans? On my old build I also used Speedfan to base the Case Intake and Exhaust fans speeds off my GPU temps. ie My GPU fan profile was set not to even spin up till the card hit 50ºc. Case Intake and Exhaust were set in Speed fan to minimum RPM. When gaming though, once the GPU temp went above 50ºc, I set a curve in Speedfan to increase the RPM's of the Case Intakes and Exhaust. Is this possible to replicate in iCUE? Is it possible to shut down iCUE without losing fan control or shut down the RGB component of it at least. Apparently iCUE can flood the USB sub system with 'interrupts' as it controls the RGB which can affect VR negatively. So when I VR game I may need to shut off the RGB control. Other users in my household on my home network will also be VR gaming on this PC remotely as well as 2D Pancake gaming via Steam In-Home Streaming/Remote Play without direct access to the PC. Ideally when they use this PC remotely and wake it up WOL with a 'magic packet', I wonder is it possible to set up a scripted or scheduled task or something like that, that would shut off RGB when they connect and re-enable it when they disconnect. Not sure if that kind of thing is possible though.
    1 point
  45. I signed up for this forum specifically for this issue. I've built several computers over the last 12 months, all with various AIOs. My Nephew wanted to go the Corsair route, so I set him up with the 220T case and this Capellix AIO. I ordered from Amazon and am an avid review-reader. Not one single review mentioned this ridiculous minimum pump speed of 2200 rpms and the annoying sound associated with it. Maybe Corsair scrubs the Amazon reviews or something. Once I heard this sound and realized I couldn't adjust it any lower with iCue, I did a google search specifically about pump noise and all of these forum posts came up. There is a way to lower the pump speed with Argus, but then you lose all of the iCue lighting control. Since Argus can lower the speed, that means iCue could be set up to do the same. Please make this happen. If not, it's getting returned and I'll stick with NZXT or pretty much any other AIO for all future builds, and I build a lot for people.
    1 point
  46. I signed up specifically for this forum to ask a question about why my new H150i pump is so loud, even in quiet mode, and stumbled across this thread. It's too loud, Corsair! This isn't bubble noises or a hardware fault, it's simply the sound of the pump. I have 7 fans in my chassis running on quiet, and all I can hear is the pump which is also set to quiet. It's extremely distracting. Is there likely to be a firmware update to fix this, or should I swap it for something else?
    1 point
  47. First attempt at custom water cooling loop. Intel i9 9900k cooled by Hydro XC7 MSI Geforce RTX3070 gaming X trio cooled by Alphacool Eisblock Aurora Acryl GPX-N Hydro XD5 Pump/Res Combo Hydro XR5 280mm Rad top Hydro XR5 360mm Rad front 4 x Corsair LL120mm RGB fans 2 x Corsair LL140mm RGB fans Clear Corsair XL5 coolant Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO SL 16GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3600MHz C18 All the fittings and PETG hard lines are Barrow, I likes the look of them The Corsair X stuff is really easy to use Temp wise while playing WarZone the GPU never goes above 60 degrees (was mid to high 60's air cooled) The CPU sits mid 60's, this is close to what it was previously with a Corsair Hydro X platinum AIO, show the great job the AIO's do now, they don't look anywhere near as nice though (in my opinion) I might change the top rad to a 280mm with 2 140mm fans at some point Also the GPU block is from Alphacool as Corsair don't make one yet, I might change it if they do (anyone know if there is one in the pipeline?), it would be nice to have iCue control all the RGB RGB on - not for everyone but I like it. RGB off - The blue/black GPU cables are on order, the yellow has to go! Any thoughts or suggestions on how I can improve are welcome
    1 point
  48. I also want to ask for a way to lower the minimum RPM of the pump on the Elite Capelix. Got an h115i the other day and its a good product cooling wise, and the leds are fantastic, but is really, REALLY loud even on the quietest mode, loder than any of the fans or the GPU itself. So, if there is a way to reduce the pump noise via firmware, please do
    1 point
  49. Hi bud, let me say you grabbed a real good case. Your diagram is very similar to what I'm using at the moment... except for the AIO (H150i for me) and the led strips. Here are some things I'd advice you: 1) putting 13 RGB fans in a not-so-big case makes no great sense for RGB strips to me, but maybe I'm mistaking. If you use the LS100 kit for your monitor (I'm using one), there is nothing to plug in to the CoPro's LED ports as the LED control cable is to be plugged into the external module. 2) The case comes with an RGB strip on the front, I have plugged its LED cable directly to the mobo and I'm able to control it via ASUS Aura or via iCue with the ASUS plugin enabled (in this second case the control is a bit complicated). To connect it into the CoPro you'll need a third-part cable, I have no experience in that sense. 3) 1 CoPro, 2 LNC and 1 CoCo is a lot of stuff to be crammed into this case... and the back space is not that big! if I was you, I'd try to get rid of the RGB of the 3 ML fans and to eliminate 1 LNC. Otherwise you could try to connect all AIO fans RGB cables to the CoCo, if you are not planning to set particular effects, it may work even if ML and QL have different LED numbers. But disabling ML fans' RGB should not be a great issue with the AIO mounted on top, you should not see that great difference. 4) What mobo are you planning to use? Are you sure you have 3 USB 2.0 header avaliable? If not, I'd go for a powered USB hub (the one from NZXT works great) instead of an USB splitter. Don't know if I've read your diagram well, if you have any question... here I am! :-) Baio
    1 point
  50. Diagrams Note. Fan Type does not matter in these Diagrams. the Wiring is the same across all 4 fan types (see Button Controllers in 'Some Basic Questions Answered' at the top of this thread for other connectivity details on these items and compatibility) Lighting Node Core Setup Lighting Node Pro Setup. This allows RGB control of 4 Pro Strips in Corsair iCue/LINK ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Corsair Lighting Node Pro & Pro Expansion Kit Setup This allows RGB control of 8 Pro Strips in Corsair LINK/iCue ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Corsair RGB Fan & Lighting Node Pro Setup. This allows RGB control of 6 RGB Fan's in Corsair iCue/LINK ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Corsair RGB Fan & Commander Pro Setup. This allows RGB & RPM control of 6 RGB Fan's in Corsair iCue/LINK ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Corsair RGB Fan & Commander Pro & Pro Expansion Kit Setup. This allows RGB & RPM control of 6 RGB Fan's and RGB control of 4 Pro Strips in Corsair iCue/LINK ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Advanced Node Core Setups using Corsair Platinum/Pro series AIO's to control all Fan Speeds.. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Commander Core Diagrams. This one would be your typical way of setting it up (more to be added once its in my hands) one for those needing more than 6 fans ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Corsair 570x Mirror Black Setup. Standard With Commander Pro Giving iCUE Control of 6 SP RGB Fans and the Case Logo's this one shows use of a Custom Cable to allow the use of a Single RGB Fan LED Hub. it must be noted that the Custom cable can only be used with fans/logo's of the same type! the Logo's in the 570x Mirror black are technically an SP RGB Fan. this is how they are connected and also detected in iCUE/LINK and indeed by the SP button Controller..YOU MUST NOT MIX SP Fan RGB fan connections with any of Corsairs other RGB Fans/Strips. and of course this is in no way Supported by Corsair in anyway.. this is a custom modification!. at your own risk guys! and another taking things a step further by adding the Custom SP RGB Fan splitter Cable and also a Commander Pro and Pro Lighting Expansion Pack ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Advanced Corsair RGB Setups This show's the use of Multiple Lighting Node Pro's and RGB Fan LED Hub's. The plan with this one is to have two of the Lighting Node Pro's outside the case Powering 12 x Pro Led strips spread across the back of all Monitors and 12 x Pro Led strips under the desks and behind the TV on the Wall. updated diagram below shows use of DevBikers RGB Fan LED Hub Splitter Cable. more info here http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=174759 I have also run a Usb cable from my Wifes Lighting Node Pro in her PC to my Rear IO so I control her Node Pro in My iCue, meaning her RGB is synced with mine Note. When using PWM splitters please do your Math to make sure any power you are drawing from a device (Pump/CoPro etc) is with in the devices specs
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...