belgab1980 Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 Hi, H80i running with FANs in "Balanced mode" (~1200RPMs), Pump at 2250RPMs and coolant at 36,3° MAX. At first I had temperatures (at stock speed, 3.7GHz FUILL Load and 1,15vlt vCore) at around 31° IDLE and 72° with Prime95 A slight overclock by having all cores running at 3.9GHz in full load and 1.229vlt vCore) at 31° IDLE and 85° with Pirme95... having thermal throttling. After browing the forum and looked around, I've detached and reattached the thing, discovering that the dissi didn't make contact with the CPU very well (actually, not good at all!). Now things have improved a lot (around 10-12°, with H80i FANs in Quiet Mode) Stock speed topping at around 62°, while having all cores at 3.9GHz with 1.229vlt vCore (set automatically by the mobo), I can see it topped at 75° for a while, but now it's steady at 69°... no thermal throttling any more. Now, I'd like to ask more experienced users how I can determine if I have "good termperatures" or if the dissi isn't firmly making contact with the CPU properly like before. Also, which temperature should I look at? Right now (running prime95 @3.9GHz 1.229vlt), I can see: CPU 69° CPU Package 80° CPU IA Core 80° CPU Core #1 80° CPU Core #2 80° CPU Core #3 76° CPU Core #4 73° I have some thermal compound leftovers (see picture) I can use in place of the stock one, if it can make a difference (or even buy a new one). The other issue is due to lack of detection of the unit every time... I have to go in Device Manager, delete its HID Defive, redetect it and 90% of the times it's being found... I've tried to update the firmware to 1.07 (even if it wasnt supposed to fix this issue) and indeed it didn't. Running on a freshly installed (with nothing installed but "burn-in tools") Windows 8.1 x64 OS. Regards, Gabriele Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 check this pic as its possible to mount the backplate upside down which will affect temps also if your m/b has close capacitors they could be touching one side causing improper seating of the block.. http://ts2.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.5010063328084181&w=256&h=177&c=7&rs=1&pid=1.7 corsair is due to release a update to address win8 issues hopefully soon if all goes well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belgab1980 Posted November 29, 2013 Author Share Posted November 29, 2013 check this pic as its possible to mount the backplate upside down which will affect temps also if your m/b has close capacitors they could be touching one side causing improper seating of the block.. http://ts2.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.5010063328084181&w=256&h=177&c=7&rs=1&pid=1.7 corsair is due to release a update to address win8 issues hopefully soon if all goes well... What do you mean by "upside down"... I thought that there was only a way to mount it... looking at it, it doesn't seem to be any different one way or the other. I've attached a picture of my backplate installation. Capacitors around the socket should not be tall enough to cause issues. Thanks for the information, I'll wait for the Win8.1 update then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 yup its upside down look on the bottom theres 2 small cutouts look at your board,top left of the mount where your arrows are,see the gold part being pressed against the block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitemare3219 Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 Also, I see you have an ASUS board like myself... some of them are produced with a thinner PCB which cause the backplate screw holes to stick out too far on the face of the motherboard. This will not allow for a tight fit of the block to the CPU. If you can wiggle your backplate with it attached to the block and see it moving, it is loose. This post shows the exact problem, and how to fix it... take a look over it and see if it may apply to you as well. I used rubber o-rings on my backplate. Make it sit flush, or slightly below flush, with the PCB. http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=671101&postcount=28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belgab1980 Posted November 29, 2013 Author Share Posted November 29, 2013 Hi, wytnyt: I had already changed the backplate position by rotating it clockwise, however it does still make contact and it's not tightly fit. Nitemare3219: yes, I have that problem as well... I'll go out and buy a couple of O'Rings to try and level out backplate. I think that I'll also have to buy a new thermal compound at this point, since I'll have already removd the block twice.. any ideas about a good compound to use? Gabriele Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peanutz94 Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 I think that I'll also have to buy a new thermal compound at this point, since I'll have already removd the block twice.. any ideas about a good compound to use? Yeah, you never want to use thermal paste over. Trying to smear it over again results in uneven coverage and if you use your finger you get oil from your skin in it and thats not good either. But any commercially available paste would be okay.Just stay away from the diamond and ceramic pastes because they can ruin the surface of the cooling block And if you are going to get o-rings get all four. You dont want to use just two. To block would never sit flush. I've attached a picture of my backplate installation. Capacitors around the socket should not be tall enough to cause issues. It does and it's an issue that has been seen quite a few times. The tell tale sign is the thermal paste only being spread on one side of the block as in your first pic in the OP. Usually turning the block so that the hoses are either at the top or bottom will allow it to sit flush on the CPU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belgab1980 Posted November 29, 2013 Author Share Posted November 29, 2013 ...But any commercially available paste would be okay.Just stay away from the diamond and ceramic pastes because they can ruin the surface of the cooling block And if you are going to get o-rings get all four. You dont want to use just two. To block would never sit flush. ...The tell tale sign is the thermal paste only being spread on one side of the block as in your first pic in the OP. Usually turning the block so that the hoses are either at the top or bottom will allow it to sit flush on the CPU. I've remounted the block (the backplate is now properly mounted) and spread some thermal paste I had (I've not used some Ceramique leftovers since I've never liked that too thick paste anyway). I'll probably buy the Noctua NT-H1 which seems a good overall one. I'm still undecided about O-Rings since I've read that they are not needed and the "loose" thing is actually normal... most likely I'll buy them anyway. Tomorrow I'll remove the block yet again, and look how the paste has spread... so, do you suggest I'll just mount the block differently? I have an idea to test actually... I can spread a little of cheap silicone paste on the block surface where the capacitors might come into contact... if I then see that capacitors have paste on them, I know for sure they make contact. Anyway, now I can run without thermal throttling at 4.2GHz 1.225vlt, but temperatures are high... 80° for the hottest core, with peaks to 93° on the same core before the fans start to run faster and cool it down to 80°. The odd thing is that I have two cores that are hotten then the other twos... by 5-7°... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wiggle Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 The odd thing is that I have two cores that are hotten then the other twos... by 5-7°... Still sounds like the block is not seated properly - lifting off one side giving you higher temperatures on the cores on the side with less/improper contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belgab1980 Posted November 29, 2013 Author Share Posted November 29, 2013 There is no way the capacitors can interfere with the block, since they are not being covered by the latter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peanutz94 Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 There is no way the capacitors can interfere with the block, since they are not being covered by the latter. Yes there is, if the bolck is mounted so that the hoses are on that side where the capacitors are it can keep the block from sitting down flush. Like i said we have seen that before many times, this is why we suggested to check. You can try them with the hoses at the top or bottom . That should give the right clearance. The odd thing is that I have two cores that are hotten then the other twos... by 5-7°... You will always have one or more cores hotter depending on what is running in the backround. Each core does not do the same amount of work so core temps fluctuate. How are you putting your paste on? A small pea sized drop is all you should need in the center of your CPU. Let the cooling block spread it when it's compressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belgab1980 Posted November 30, 2013 Author Share Posted November 30, 2013 I've done the following: - checked tht no capacitors get in the way - mounted O-Rings (thus reseated the block) - Added some thermal paste Running Prime95 (with AVX) at 4.2GHz, 1.229vlt and H80i FANs in quiet mode. Max temp reached at 93° on the hottest core (the coolest core is 86°). so I have three cores that max out at 93° (so far) and the coolest one at 86°. The above let me think that the block might not be seated perfectly yet. Temp averages are at about 83° while running Prime95+. Washers seem to not have brought a big benefit... The most benefit I had so far has been from (in order of importance) a. poroperly mounting the backplate b. aligning the block differently (any guide on how to perfectly align this one while pinching the bolts?) The only thing I might (and maybe I'll do) do, is to remove all the current thermal paste/pad mess, and properly spread a good paste like the Noctua HT-N1) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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