H100i Heatsink Does not Sit Flat on CPU

[jurassic1024]

My computer crashed today and when i booted it back up, the LED on my H100i was pulsing Yellow. I assumed it had to do with a heat issue with my CPU and/or cooling, so I looked at the rad and fans and they were dirty so i cleaned them, and then applied a grain of rice size of AS5 to the CPU, because the stock TIM looked in bad shape. Booted back up and my LED was blue again, but my temps were horrible. Idle temp with stock TIM was 39c, and with AS5 it starts at 50c+ and running Prime95 gets it up to 95c in a matter of seconds! Of course when i removed the pump from the CPU, i cleaned off the stock thermal pad/paste with alcohol and applied AS5. I reapplied TIM 6 times, using different methods with the same results. I take the pump off the CPU and look at the thermal paste after the last application of TIM and the heatsink was not making contact on the sides of the CPU. I read a comment under the Maximum PC review of the H100i and that guy had the same problem and said he had to bend the tabs on the pump bracket a bit for it to make contact. I tightened the srews in a criss cross pattern all but one time, still same result. 46c idle temp is actually the best i've gotten out of the six attempts today.

 

So my question is, should i bend them like he did (I probably will before someone replies and/or add more rubber washers to the bracket behind the mobo), RMA, or ask for a better bracket that goes over top of the pump?

 

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e373/str8maks/Heatsink.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e373/str8maks/CPU.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e373/str8maks/IdleTemps.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e373/str8maks/LoadTemps.jpg

[wytnyt]

first recheck all your connections,go into bios and insure your pump is running at ~2200 rpm

try pressing firmly on the block to see if your temps drop

bending the tabs is the first ive heard of this and wouldnt advise doing so.it worked before so that cant help...

[jurassic1024]

first recheck all your connections,go into bios and insure your pump is running at ~2200 rpm

try pressing firmly on the block to see if your temps drop

bending the tabs is the first ive heard of this and wouldnt advise doing so.it worked before so that cant help...

 

Pump is running at 2300rpm+.

The heatsink is screwed on solid. Pushing on it did nothing.

This is the first time i've had a heatsink that didn't put pressure across the whole IHS.

When you're desperate you'll try anything, but these pics were taken before I did bend the tabs... and it didn't help.

...and pictures don't lie.

 

Read top comment - John

http://www.maximumpc.com/corsair_h100i_cpu_cooler_review

[wytnyt]

i missed your pics the first time but it looks like there isnt enough past applied

[jurassic1024]

i missed your pics the first time but it looks like there isnt enough past applied

 

The middle is perfect. It's the thick parts on left and right that didn't get spread out to fill the empty voids on the sides. I bent the tabs back to straight and took off the backplate to put rubber washers behind it and that is when I saw that 3 of the standoffs themselves were bent on one end. I don't know how or when i did that. I didn't start reefin on them until the 4th try at reapplying the TIM, and i didn't bend the tabs til the 6th attempt.

 

My plan was to bend the tabs back and add rubber washers to the backside of the backplate on top of the ones that were already there for socket 1155 installation so the heatsink would put more pressure on the CPU when tightened and my idle temps are hovering around 40 instead of 50's. 37-39c in BIOS. But when I ran Prime95 small fft's, it jumped to high 90's again, and the idle temp after stopping it is 46 on the hottest core. So I didn't fix it. I'm too tired to pull of the heatsink again to see if it made better contact. Even if it didn't, I'm out of ideas to correct it.

 

The only thing I can come up with is those bent standoffs and/or the bracket are the problem. Do you think Corsair would send me a new Socket 1155 installation kit, or preferably, RMA the whole unit so I can use the stock TIM again which worked great?

 

Thanks for your help.

[wytnyt]

The middle is perfect. It's the thick parts on left and right that didn't get spread out to fill the empty voids on the sides. I bent the tabs back to straight and took off the backplate to put rubber washers behind it and that is when I saw that 3 of the standoffs themselves were bent on one end. I don't know how or when i did that. I didn't start reefin on them until the 4th try at reapplying the TIM, and i didn't bend the tabs til the 6th attempt.

 

My plan was to bend the tabs back and add rubber washers to the backside of the backplate on top of the ones that were already there for socket 1155 installation so the heatsink would put more pressure on the CPU when tightened and my idle temps are hovering around 40 instead of 50's. 37-39c in BIOS. But when I ran Prime95 small fft's, it jumped to high 90's again, and the idle temp after stopping it is 46 on the hottest core. So I didn't fix it. I'm too tired to pull of the heatsink again to see if it made better contact. Even if it didn't, I'm out of ideas to correct it.

 

The only thing I can come up with is those bent standoffs and/or the bracket are the problem. Do you think Corsair would send me a new Socket 1155 installation kit, or preferably, RMA the whole unit so I can use the stock TIM again which worked great?

 

Thanks for your help.

 

i honestly dont know,you can of course submit an rma and inquire about it,being that you modifyed it ,its best left up to them to decide.

[jurassic1024]

i honestly dont know,you can of course submit an rma and inquire about it,being that you modifyed it ,its best left up to them to decide.

 

Ok cool. I tried 5 times doing it their way before I went rogue. Since it's US Thanksgiving, I'm going to have to use Intel stock cooler until they are back. :(

I haven't used stock CPU cooling since my first build - an Athlon XP 2600+ back in 2004. :|

[wytnyt]

if you decide to try seating again,try using a credit card and apply a paper thin layer across the block staying 1/8 inch from each side,this has worked best for me.

theres alot of contact area not being covered.warpage cant be a factor and these blocks just dont need to be THAT tight to work

keep us posted...

[jurassic1024]

if you decide to try seating again,try using a credit card and apply a paper thin layer across the block staying 1/8 inch from each side,this has worked best for me.

theres alot of contact area not being covered.warpage cant be a factor and these blocks just dont need to be THAT tight to work

keep us posted...

 

The initial installation with the stock TIM went as planned. It wasn't until i took it off and used AS5 (which I've always used in the past (non stock TIM that is) when I ran into problems. And I found another person that had the exact same problem which is where I got the bending of the tabs idea. Just because you never heard of it, doesn't mean it didn't happen. He had no reason to lie and no offence, but i'm sure you haven't installed every H100i on the planet to know every problem.

 

I used rice size, spread with saran wrap, business card, i did it all. Like I said, I didn't start reefing on it (going tight til it didn't turn no more) until the 4th attempt, and those 4 attempts i used the criss cross method when screwing the HS down with no reefing. Those 4 attempts I was convinced i was applying the TIM wrong (couldn't think of anything else i could of been doing wrong), hence using different methods each time after the second attempt, but did not go too tight for fear of breaking my motherboard. This isn't my first HS installation. Not even close. I've built every computer i've ever owned, and this is the first problem i've had with a (CPU or GPU) heatsink installation... ever.

 

Thanks for your help.

[peanutz94]

Jurrasic, , I'm not sure why it's not sitting flat. You might try turning the cooling block 90 degrees one way or the other. Some of the MB have capacitors real close to the socket and if the hoses are on that side it wont sit flush.

 

You don't need to bed the tabs to install the cooler. if you do, or are, then there is something wrong with the installation. Whether it be the capacitors, or what ever. Not to mention intentionally doing so will void your warranty when it snaps.

 

You can use a straight edge to check the flatness of the cooling block if you wish. I dont think that's the issue. I've never seen one warped before. And as thick as they are it would have to be a really bad defect to warp one. At this point despite the pump showing proper RPM's i would say there is some failure of that unit. I don't know if it's a matter of the impeller breaking or what, but there have been a few fail like this before. It would probably best to have that replaced especially since the standoffs are bent. There is no way you'll get a proper mount with them bent.

[wytnyt]

i'm sure you haven't installed every H100i on the planet to know every problem..

 

i dont pretend i know it all and am sorry you assumed i was belittling you as your obvious ranting about me in other threads.

i dont know your skills or lack of so i try to cover all bases when trying to help.

when people devote their personal time trying to help,perhaps in the future you could try to appreciate it,rather than flame them when you dont agree

[jurassic1024]

Jurrasic, , I'm not sure why it's not sitting flat. You might try turning the cooling block 90 degrees one way or the other. Some of the MB have capacitors real close to the socket and if the hoses are on that side it wont sit flush.

 

You don't need to bed the tabs to install the cooler. if you do, or are, then there is something wrong with the installation. Whether it be the capacitors, or what ever. Not to mention intentionally doing so will void your warranty when it snaps.

 

You can use a straight edge to check the flatness of the cooling block if you wish. I dont think that's the issue. I've never seen one warped before. And as thick as they are it would have to be a really bad defect to warp one. At this point despite the pump showing proper RPM's i would say there is some failure of that unit. I don't know if it's a matter of the impeller breaking or what, but there have been a few fail like this before. It would probably best to have that replaced especially since the standoffs are bent. There is no way you'll get a proper mount with them bent.

 

Thanks for your reply. My P8P67 EVO has excellent clearance around the socket so nothing was affecting the installation. Performance was fine with stock TIM before I removed it to clean the rad and fans. The backplate was also installed to avoid the two screws on the back of the socket. I would try turning it 90 degrees but then it would look like crap through my acrylic side panel, and it was working fine with the stock TIM before I removed it to clean it. I installed my Intel stock cooler last night with the same TIM and method I used when i reinstalled the H100i, and my idle temps are 39C and 60-70c under load running the same Prime95 small ffts tests I did with the H100i that instantly got 98c before i stopped the test. I really don't have an explanation why my temps were so high with the H100i, especially after so many redos and TIM applications i've done on it (6), and the fact it was fine before i removed it for cleaning.

 

I've contacted Corsair about my issue and am waiting for a reply.

 

Thanks.

[jurassic1024]

i dont pretend i know it all and am sorry you assumed i was belittling you as your obvious ranting about me in other threads.

i dont know your skills or lack of so i try to cover all bases when trying to help.

when people devote their personal time trying to help,perhaps in the future you could try to appreciate it,rather than flame them when you dont agree

 

You suggest the same things over and over and in the end you blame the user. I commented on your posts in other threads while I was trying to find answers to my problem (wasn't looking for you), and when I see bad info/help, I can't help but intervene. Especially when in those threads you almost never admit the product could be faulty without saying something about what the user has (potentially) done wrong. Not saying it always is the fault of the product, but finishing with blame on the user is not helping or encouraging.

 

For example, you said to me that I could try for an RMA, and the followed up with saying I modified it, implying i ruined my chances of RMA when I didn't bend the tabs until the SIXTH attempt when all else failed. I just wanted it to work without having to send it away leaving me with stock cooling, which I'm sure Corsair would understand. It's not like a slightly bent bracket would cost Corsair anything they would worry about.

 

In this thread, you kept saying I was screwing the heatsink too tight, AFTER I said I didn't reef on it until the 5th or 6th attempt. btw, you want it as tight as freaking possible. The point of TIM is to fill the imperfections between the HS and CPU. Too tight is when you crack the motherboard PCB and my motherboard is not damaged. Less is more when applying TIM.

 

I show a clear picture of the heatsink not covering the CPU and you say I used too much paste, which makes no sense because with too much paste it would be more likely to cover the heatsink and not just the middle when screwed down. You can CLEARLY see the thick amount of paste on the sides which would of spread out if the heatsink was making better contact.

 

You suggest using a credit card after seeing the heatsink was not making good pressure. In that pic specifically I spread the TIM across the entire CPU using a paper business card and it still didn't make contact with the heatsink. Using a credit card is more likely to leave lines/grooves because it's plastic and gets used a lot. It is not he best method, and it certainly wouldn't make the heatsink come into more contact than using a paper business card, or any other method for that matter.

 

When you're trying to help, ask questions. If you don't know their skill level, that is when you ask questions to get an idea of their skill level. Treating everyone like first time users is not efficient or encouraging especially when you're just saying the same things over and over. And when you end with blaming the user, you're not helping either imo.

 

I actually just came from an H100i thread where you gave bad advice to someone on an old thread and it shows you do no research, just recycle the same suggestions and finally blame the user.

 

"when people devote their personal time trying to help,perhaps in the future you could try to appreciate it,rather than flame them when you dont agree"

I thanked you every time. Just because I have a problem with your methods doesn't mean you have to take offence to it just because you're trying to help. My skill level is high, and that should of been apparent with what I've written in my replies, but all you did was focus on what YOU thought I did wrong and made it your mission to point them out. So forgive me if I questioned your "help" at times.

 

Thank you.

[peanutz94]

Jurassic, I'm sorry to see your giving up,I understand ascetics and all and that's choice. But it's hard to help diagnose something when the other party is unwilling. You say the clearance around the block is good but from experience here it's a common issue with some of those boards. This is why the mounting bracket allows for the pump to be installed in any orientation. To accommodate most MB configurations.

 

Corsair will RMA the cooler for you no problem. Let us know if you decide to try it again and what your results are.

 

Cheers!

[wiggle]

Jurrasic, like you point out, obvious the heatsink is not being tightened down to the cpu and it looks like from the lack of spread that it is not related to a liftoff on one side (due to pump pipe coming into contact with any capacitors etc).

 

But you shouldn't need to bend anything. The H100 comes with 8 standoff screws. 4 are for lga1155/lga1156 and 4 are for lga2011. They are slightly different in the standoff length. The manual is not particularly clear in differentiating which is which. Are you using the right ones for your motherboard/cpu ? Maybe you got the wrong ones installed?

 

Also, if that is an Asus motherboard, there is another issue with some Asus boards which might be relevant in your case. Please look at http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=671101&postcount=28 (This is about a Gigabyte board but have read that some Asus boards have a similar issue with a thinner PCB board than usual.)

[Synthohol]

looks to me like the hold down may be interfering?