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Hey, I am finally building a custom water cool system. I wanted the big copper Rads, but did not see good case for side panel mounting. Wow, then I saw the AIR540 and thought I could easily put almost that much on the inside.

So now I am challenged to fit 2 dual 140mm 45mm thick Rads in this case. An extra inch for both height and length would have helped, but so would thinner Rads.


2x Alphacool NeXxos XT45 Full Copper Dual 140mm Radiators

1x Swiftech Apogee Drive II Pump and CPU Waterblock Combo Socket 2011

1x Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150ml

3/8 Tubing Tygon Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer


I'm considering a Asus P9X79 WS LGA2011 SSI CEB. IT IS CEB not Extended ATX. It's actually a little shorter. The holes should line UP? I have built a system with it before and it gets better New Eggs than the RIVE. It looks to be a better fit with the top Rad/Fan.



New holes drilled to move front Rad down.

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I'm stalled. Frozen CPU sent the wrong 90 degree fittings, someone didn't see the "B" for barb in the part number.

I heard ASUS is coming out with a RIVE BLACK edition. The cover over the I/O jacks will conflict with the fan (in 1st picture).

1. Swinging the rad around won't help, as the barbs will be in the way.

2. Can't move the rad out of the way.

3. Cutting the fans corner plastic might clear it.

4. Thinner fan 15mms vs. standard 25mm should clear it.

5. 120mm fan on a 140mm adaptor and I could still have Noctuas :)


GPU 11" long should just barely fit. AMD R9 280 was announced and so were NVidia price cuts. Maybe I will delay this build, but I will plumb it together and circulate water. Yea, that's the ticket. Who needs the electronics? I just want to water cool.

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At the moment I am still considering my options.


I am leaning for a 240mm at the top and a 360mm in the front of the case, each in 30mm thickness and with the fans on the inside.


This will be my first watercooled setup and it will still take a while until I can begin because first, I will wait for the Radeon R9 290 or 290x (it depends), an appropriate waterblock, and since all together it will be fairly costly, it can take some time.


I am not sure if my result is worth sharing :) But if I am somehow able to begin late this year/ early next, I will for sure post some pictures if its not a complete failure.

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Asus P9X79 WS LGA2011 SSI CEB question finally answered:


Created By: Jace TS (10/15/2013 10:21 AM)



My apologies for the delay,


Yes, the Air540 will be able to fit your motherboard's formfactor. The 540 can actually fit an E-ATX motherboard that is 12 × 13 in.


If you have any additional questions, please let us know and make sure to rate my performance once the ticket is resolved.


Thank you for your time.

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That would be easy.

Should clear the motherboard connectors up top.

Should easily fit 11" GPU.

Push-Pull will not fit, each rad would need a pair mounted outside.

I hope you share your progress.

you can do push pull on front rad and top if you can fit top fans on inside



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A 240 and a 360 are 5x 120mm. 2D sq area = 5 x 120mm x 120mm = 72,000

2x 280mm are 4x 140mm. 2D Sq area = 4 x 140mm x 140mm = 78,400

Winner with 8.8% more 2D sq area is 2x 280mm.


240 2D area = 28,800. 360 2D area = 43,200. 280 2D area = 39,200.

Misfits of 240 and 280 is no better. 360 and 280 is likely not possible.



3D Volume for A 240 and a 360:

at 22mm deep: 1,584,000. at 30mm deep: 2,160,000. at 45mm deep: 3,240,000.


3D Volume for 2x 280mm (always 8.8% better):

at 22mm deep: 1,724,800. at 30mm deep: 2,352,000. at 45mm deep: 3,528,000.




A 140mm RAD can be placed in the rear. An internal fan may conflict with fans on RADs up top.

Up top a 240 fans would have more clearance than a 280s fans.

The 140mm RAD would likely be slimmer 22 ~ 24mm depth.

SO... three RADS could be used: 140mm, 240mm, 360mm.

Three RADS 2D area is 91,600. Winner with 16% more 2D sq.area. But at a ~ 1/3 higher cost.

3D volume assumes 140mm RAD depth is constant 22mm.

all 22mm deep: 2,015,200. 2 at 30mm deep: 2,591,200. 2 at 45mm deep: 3,671,200.

vs. 240+360: 27%, 19.6%, 13%

vs. 2x 280: 16%, 10%, 4%


REMATCH Conclusion:

The 120mm based RADs would be an easier fit.

There are more to choose from and more fans to choose from too.

You could add a 140mm in the rear if you feel you need more some time.



Depth is a diminishing return.

Air heats up as it moves thru the RAD. So part of the RAD is cooled with warmer air.

Fan speed and air flow at not 1 per 1, so doubling air flow might make an ear splitting racket.

I experimented last year measuring intake and exhaust temperature.

It took a lot of fan RPM to drop the in-out delta from 4c to 2c.

Which only change the average air temp by half that (intake air temp remained constant).

It was a lot of noise for a 1c lower water temp.



Copper! I want all or mostly all copper.

I looked up the thermal conductivity numbers and it is so much better than aluminum or brass.

It's important after all, we are cooling bathtub warm water here.

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you can do push pull on front rad and top if you can fit top fans on inside


Nice pictures. Cool reds.

Do you have one showing front Rad and your EATX mother board?


I'm measuring and... oops...

EATX could be too wide to fit with the 280mm RAD 45mm thick.

The RAD depth eats up 2 inches, out of the ~ 14", leaving almost 12" for the motherboard, power, and Sata cables.

The 140mm wide rad is ~ 0.7" from the motherboard tray. Maybe not enough clearance for cables.


A SSI-CEB is up to 10.5 wide. Good enough in theory. So, angled needle nose, pull fan, or mount fans outside could help with cabling.

EATX varies, and can be wider. I'm seeing 10.5 and 10.7 wide on Newegg for popular 2011 boards.


A 120mm wide rad might be an all around better fit.

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  • 2 weeks later...

FINALLY! The rotary barbs arrived. I'm pumping water now.

The assembly started and stalled again for clamps.

The FrozenCPU Delrin tubing clamps are almost worthless. Works on some, not on ribbed barbs. The Tygon 2375 tubing does not have much give to it, but is great in every other way. I bought me some ugly clamps at the ACE hardware store.


What a mess... My first time filling and bleeding a system. I'm so glad this was a practice run with no electronics in the case. I now see the need for a funnel with the pipe threads. So I got a set at the dollar store and hammered a barb into one. It's so much better now, I can top off without a mess. It's larger and better than spending $8 for online junk.


Corsair please take note:

The case top blocks off the top RADs side (upper) ports. It would be so much easier to fill and bleed if I could access them. It's too late now for me to drill a hole or two.


The tight junction of the two RADs was easily handled with two 90 degree swivels and a 30 degree rotary (looks 60 degree to me). The 90s were low profile Koolance barbs NZL-L10B-BK, as there is no clearance up there for the top rad.

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee487/Pappy_WarDad/Resevior.jpg' alt='Resevior.jpg'>

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  • 3 months later...

Also I can't fit a 140mm in the rear, but it looks to be easy with a 2x 120mm rad up top.


2 Alphacool NexXxos XT45 Full Copper Dual Radiators.

4x Notcuas NF-A14 PWM fans

Swiftech Apogee Drive II Pump and CPU Water block Combo.

i7 4930, ASUS ROG Rampage IV Black Edition, 32G ram

EK-VGA Supremacy Bridge Edition

EVGA GTX 780 FTW dual bios

Bitspower Mulit-Z 150 Resevoir

Tygon 2375 Plasticizers Free and chemical resistant tubing. (STIFF STUFF)

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