cravinmild Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 This is not a log for following as I have not followed any of the directions. This is a mod/Ghetto mount and does not represent how Corsair planned on this unit to be installed/consumed. This is just for fun reading. So I finished installing the H110 in my Cooler Master HAF 932 and pretty happy with it :thumb: I was lucky and other than the H110 bracket nothing else was needed out of the box. I had a H100 on there previous to this and kept all the mounting stuff, pretty much removed the H100 and placed the H110 on and screwed it all up tight. I may have also used some of the H70 mounting stuff to install the H100... its been a while but im sure I needed some of that kit as the H100 packaging was incomplete and I was forced to improvise. This pic shows all I needed to mount this kit. The stock H110 bracket and the screws from the H100 unit from before. http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1448611/ mounting bracket by cravinmild2, on Flickr Here are a few shots I took of the unit. No unboxing vid or anything just a few quick pics :p http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1448612/ pump surface by cravinmild2, on Flickrhttp://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1448613/ rad and pump by cravinmild2, on Flickr I had a bit of time to wait until my unit arrived and during that time it started to bother me that I was only receiving two fans with the H110. I like to do Push/Pull as it worked well on my H100, kept my 2700k under 80c @5.2ghz, it was loud but it worked. Reading these forums and looking at all the fans listed I was starting to get nervous. Someone linked 140mm fans (needed for the H110) that were $45 PER fan AND that was on sale from the reg. price of $79....... PER FAN. I wanted them so bad but not for even close to those prices. Anyways, long story short, I decided to use some of the Ultra Kaze 3000 120mm that were used on my H100 P/P. By the time the unit showed up I had it all figured out. Here is my log :D Now the Rad is longer and wider on the 110 and that means the 120mm fans would sit directly on the fins BUT if I placed them at the top between the rad and the case I could use the 120mm screw holes in the case to hold the rad at the top of the case with no cutting or destroying anything. I don't like cutting or altering the case, its a limited edition lol. http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1448614/ Rad long by cravinmild2, on Flickr What I ended up doing was using zipstraps. Put a zippy thin enough to slip easily through the fins but with a nub that's too large to pull through the screw hole in the fan. Rubber washer on the other side where the zippy pops through the rad and use the nub from another zippy as a locker nut to stop it from pulling back through the fins. Rubber washer will reduce any damage the nub may cause. Honestly I doubt it would even bend a fin. Here you see the nub coming through with the rubber washer to protect the fins. The smaller 120mm needs to be mounted first as the 140mm will obviously block the rad on that side. You can see the attached 140mm and the empty space waiting for the second 140mm fan. http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1448615/ zip lock in rad by cravinmild2, on Flickr Here is a side view of the 120mm sitting on the rad fins. There are some rubber washers between the rad and fans and rubber washers between the fins and locker nubs on the other side. There is not play there, its all solid. <a href=" " title="uk3000 mounted by cravinmild2, on Flickr"><img src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1448616/" width="800" height="553" alt="uk3000 mounted"></a> Here is a full on shot. I arranged the 120mm UK 300 so they would line up to the holes at the top of the case. This keeps mounting the rad simple. Also a bonus of this is that there is not modding needed to mount in the CM 932. I cant see the weight of the rad unit itself and the two included fans causing any sagging in the rad from holding its own weight with zipties. Time will tell I guess, if the rad starts to look like a banana then perhaps ill change it up. http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1448617/ full rad and fans by cravinmild2, on Flickr Some luck with the above shot. After a foiled mounting of the rad I soon realized that I cant used both 120mm fans in their stock screw holes on the case as doing so would have the P/P fans not line up on both sides. Now the fans are directly below the center of each other. For some reason it seemed important at the time. Now only one 120mm is bolted to the case using the proper screw holes and the other fan which did not line up was fastened using zipstraps. Its just as secure as if it were bolted. All the fans are controlled using Scythe Master Pro 6 fan controller. I lost the use of the built in fan controller from the H100 pump head. The two fans I have in the front drive bay controlled by that fan controller now run full blast but I have a couple of resisters to slow them down in light I have no fan controller anymore for them. The other two channels of the fan controller are used on the H70 I have attached to my GPU AKA "The Mod" I have not had a chance to really stress the unit yet so I only have the bios recorded temps. The fans were a bit loud at this time and I had to turn them down at the cost of higher temps but by no means were the fans "real loud". The UK3000 were around 1700 rpm and the stock fans were about the same. Side note here I by accident turned the stock fans WAY WAY up and they made a noise ive never heard before. Fan controller said they were 2400rpm (IDK) but only for a second or two... for science ;) http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1448618/ temps-bios by cravinmild2, on Flickr Using HWmonitor I am around 31c idle on the desktop and so maxed out at 51c on two cores editing these pics in CS6. Fans are 900rpm for the UK3000 and 1100 for the stock fans. There is no pump noise at all. No gargleing, No grinding sound. Here is some pics of the unit mounted in the case http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1448619/ pump in close up by cravinmild2, on Flickrhttp://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1448620/ full case top down by cravinmild2, on Flickrhttp://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1448621/ full case installed by cravinmild2, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesternDreaming Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 is this picture showing two fans mounted on top of the case? the radiator and second set of fans on the inside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cravinmild Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 sorry, everything is located in the case. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7397/8718358397_64ccebdf56_b.jpg IMGP5356 by cravinmild2, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzy1925 Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 i couldnt understand how did you fit 120mm fans in to that radiator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesternDreaming Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 im digging the p/p and the amount of space you have left over, but how are you cooling the rest of the radiator when it looks like the top fans leave alot of space ontop open, p/p works on static pressure, and it sorta looks like the seal between the two sets of fans isnt tight... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cravinmild Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 The UK3000 do leave a lot of rad "open" and no, they do not seal. What the UK3000 offer is pure brute force :) If you have seen these fans for yourself you know they are to be respected, you can lose a finger to these fans, stitches at the very least. There is still a benefit from mounting the 120mm as I can see temp drops with each increase rpm. It will be nice to have the added cooling when I overclock ... and they look good too. Here is a few extra pics, thought I had added these but guess not http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/8718540283_47db93d5d8_b.jpg uk3000 mounted by cravinmild2, on Flickr http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7326/8719655616_5787343757_b.jpg full rad and fans by cravinmild2, on Flickr Also note that I have a H70 (aka "The Mod" ) on my gpu which intakes and exhausts in the case AND my CM V1000 also exhausts into my case. That's two heat sources adding to the H110's workload. At a noticeable fan noise I can maintain 22c idle (high fan speed) and yet to break 56c benchmarking/P95 (low fan speed-silent) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesternDreaming Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 ty for the closer look, i have a fan like that exhausting mobo heat from behind the plate, i agree it is more than adequate on a side note, i was thinking of doing a h50/70 thing on my cards but i was wondering 2 things, where did you get the bracket to mount the waterblock, and are the memory chips an issue to cool also? i do want to do this, but im afraid to brick my gpus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cravinmild Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 YOU CAN FIT A 38mm FAN BEHIND YOUR TRAY ... where's the drool smiley lol I lucked out with the bracket for the gpu. I was given a A$etek 760GC (its a dual cpu/gpu AIO cooler) by a member on OCN, the gpu bracket was a perfect fit for the H70 I had. Before this I had used zipstraps, they worked great. There are some members of OCN which make/sell the gpu bracket. They can make them for any brand cooler and for any gpu on the market. Depending on the card you may be able to keep the shroud/fan and just mount the pump (harder way), you can use fans directed towards the cards .. either mounted to the gpu or very close to it. The Brackets you buy are made to have a fan attached to them, its really a great idea and is more popular than the zippys for this reason. But yes its very important to cool the gpu pcb as there are numerous thingys on it to get hot. If your interested ill post a linky to some threads/clubs which were made for this type of thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesternDreaming Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 bloody hell, using some h70s to cool the cards would be pimp, and ive wanted to do this since ive heard about it last waterloops cost a fortune and im not hot to trot on doing it again your case layout looks like everything is in its place, and all the bases are covered, i first looked at this thread because my last few builds were getting waaaay too large and the 932 would be an ideal size to aim for again thanks for letting me see it can be realistically done tyvm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zk1000 Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 Any chance posting pictures of topside of the case to see the outer fixing of the cooler onto the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cravinmild Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 hope this works. Case top with crappy cell cam :p: Its hard to see the outline of the rad but you can see the two top mounted 120mm through the mesh top. The fan on the left uses the stock mounting holes while the fan on the right I have highlighted with round circles where the zipstraps are used to secure the fan to the case. I could not reach the back two mounting holes. Seems fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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