Emew Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 To start, I already filed a RMA request through Corsair but I wanted to get some extra feedback on what I'm experiencing. I put this system together in early 2011, within the first week I got stable prime95 runs of 3+ hrs on my H60 with dual Noctua fans in push/pull(push outside air into radiator, push radiator air into case). I was running a 4.4 ghz overclock with my RAM set to 1896, no blue screens, no problems, HeatMonitor reporting low to mid 60's for full load. My roommate decides this past month to pick up an h50 because his computer was running high temps and he couldn't do anything full load without his pc shutting down. So low and behold I decide to check my temps, now on a 4.0 ghz overclock and running just windows(0 heavy programs) I notice heat monitor reporting i'm seeing temperatures of 80 on just startup, idling down to 2% load with a steady 78-82. I load up some FFXIV and notice I sky rocket to 94-98 under 30% load. I shut down my PC, I open it up, clean all my filters, and decide why not put on some new thermal paste. I wipe all residue off and clean with isopropyl alcohol and let it sit to dry for a few minutes, I then follow arctic silver's instructions for my arctic silver 5 and do a straight line down the middle of the processor, and do a very thin circle on the heat sink of my h60, grazing it several times with a plastic card so it's VERY thin on the heat sink and use some isopropyl to clean up any outlying areas. I run my system an hour on just windows doing some web browsing to get a little wear in on the newly applied paste. Additionally I go into BIOS set to run at optimized defaults and turn off turbo boost and readjust fan control settings. It now runs stock 3.4 ghz with RAM at 1600 mhz, CPU Vcore of 1.275. At this point I see my temps now averaging mid 70's under 2% load(what an improvement :sigh!:). Boot up some DOTA 2 and see temperatures of low 90's(we all know DOTA isn't processor intense). I then try out CPU-Z Hardware monitor to see any progress of a different program, similar but a variance of 5 degrees, I am seeing 85's while running DOTA2, lower 90's occasionally. To give you my layout and to assure you i'm familiar with the process. My case is setup as follows: 2x Noctua pushing outside air through radiator into the case Noctuas are both hooked up to 3 pin to 4 pin molex adapters H60 pump shows same results even as I've hooked it up to all of the following: CPU Fan(disabled fan control in BIOS) Sys Fan1(disabled fan control in BIOS) 3 pin to 4 pin molex adapter. All provided the same temps no real gains upon any of the different configurations. Leading me to believe my pump is failing after 2 years. All input is appreciated! And for reference, disabling on this motherboard even in BIOS states (will run at full speed). Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nec_V20 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 I have written on another thread why I consider the Corsair recommendation to set up the fans so that they are blowing air from outside through the radiator to the inside of the case to be very dubious. I have my H80 set up to blow air from inside the case through the radiator the dust filters in my computer case keep the air inside the case clean. I also have two fans attached. If you suck the air in from outside then you will also be sucking in the dust which will clog the veins of the radiator and of course you have a heat exchange rapidly going towards zero. So in your case, with the H60 having been running for a long time you should really make sure that you have all the grot and crud out that has accumulated - which involves a shed-load more than just going over it with a damp cloth, it's toothpick and lots of patience time. The other thing that immediately struck me is, are you sure you put the fans on the radiator again the right way around after cleaning the H60? Believe me, it is the kind of thing I would do, because I got distracted (actually I did exactly that and only caught it when I double checked before mounting the whole lot to the case now that I remember *blush* ). So I am not gratuitously slagging you off. Because of my back (among other things I have had two spine operations) my workroom is very warm. That having been said, with my H80 running for over two years now the idle temperature is 42 degrees Centigrade - my room temperature is 27 degrees Centigrade or more. I am running a core i7 990x with a marginal overclock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emew Posted April 8, 2013 Author Share Posted April 8, 2013 I can see your point, during the down time of my waiting on an RMA, my friend is letting me borrow his H100 that I plan to take my 2 noctuas and have them blow up into the air from the top of the radiator. If I see a noticable gain, and we're talking 20-30 degrees celsius less, that I get back to normal operating conditions I will know my pump is failing. But I can definitely back your idea that sucking case air through the radiator to the outside of your case is a more beneficial way to avoid large quantities of dust. I plan on posting back later today with some right off the bat temperatures from the h100 i'll be borrowing until I get an RMA answer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nec_V20 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 You may think your house is clean, but don't dust for a while and look what accumulates. Now the way you had your fans set up you basically installed a dust magnet onto your radiator, so you have a really nice gooey mess accumulating in the radiator over time and of course the pollen will make matters even worse - "Yeah lets just add one of the main ingredients of honey into mix of stuff getting sucked into the radiator, what could possibly go wrong?". The liquid circulating in the radiator transfers the heat to the radiator veins and the airflow is supposed to then transfer the heat away from the veins. Good luck with that if you have essentially clogged the thing up with something of the consistency of Play-Doh. I can guarantee that if you turn off the fans altogether you won't see much difference in temperatures on the H60 after two years of use with the recommended fan settings you followed. The veins on your H60 radiator are so gunged up that fan or fans or lack of them don't make a difference any more, whether or not the pump circulating the liquid is working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emew Posted April 8, 2013 Author Share Posted April 8, 2013 Alright an update, I installed the h100 which obviously required removing my noctuas, my h60 had little to ANY dust whatsoever. Upon installing the h100 and instantly running Prime95 I couldn't even break 50 degrees after the full 8 blend tests, this makes me strongly believe my h60 is officially defective.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nec_V20 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 WOW! Talking to you I remember when I first installed the HW80 and did it the way Corsair recommended. I then got more and more doubts because it just didn't make sense and even after just a week or so the vents of the HW80 had dust in them that I got out with a combination of a toothpick and one of those toothbrushes with the raised bristles. It was when I put the fans round the other way that I nearly had them facing each other and blowing air at each other (the OOPS moment I mentioned in my first reply). I take it that when you hold the radiator up to the light you can see clear through it? If that is the case I want to move into your place - or the place next door. I mean that most sincerely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emew Posted April 8, 2013 Author Share Posted April 8, 2013 It was pretty see-through, even then the can of compressed air with 1 wave through got rid of any remaining shreds. Mind you I have the corsair 500R which has built in filters you can clean off, those always get dirty and cleaned frequently, I think that prevented the radiator from getting much dust at all. I can't believe I'm staring at a core sitting at 28 degrees right now lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 I wipe all residue off and clean with isopropyl alcohol and let it sit to dry for a few minutes, I then follow arctic silver's instructions for my arctic silver 5 and do a straight line down the middle of the processor, and do a very thing circle on the heat sink of my h60, grazing it several times with a plastic card so it's VERY thin on the heat sink and use some isopropyl to clean up any outlying areas. Looks like you may have found a cause. However, it appears that the thermal grease may actually not have been applied correctly. After tinting BOTH the heat sink and the CPU cap, all of the thermal compound needs to be removed by wiping it away with a lint-free paper (coffee filter), not just the "outlying areas". Removing all of the excess in this way (not using a solvent) leaves the compound IN the microscopic pores of the metal but removes any that is ON TOP of the surface. Too thick, and the energy transfer is diminished. Having the stripe AND the tinting will apply more compound than necessary and efficiency is compromised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emew Posted April 8, 2013 Author Share Posted April 8, 2013 Looks like you may have found a cause. However, it appears that the thermal grease may actually not have been applied correctly. After tinting BOTH the heat sink and the CPU cap, all of the thermal compound needs to be removed by wiping it away with a lint-free paper (coffee filter), not just the "outlying areas". Removing all of the excess in this way (not using a solvent) leaves the compound IN the microscopic pores of the metal but removes any that is ON TOP of the surface. Too thick, and the energy transfer is diminished. Having the stripe AND the tinting will apply more compound than necessary and efficiency is compromised. The thermal compound was removed and cleaned using a q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol. Additionally the new paste was wiped onto the heatsink using a plastic sandwich bag over my finger, and scraped smooth with a plastic membership card(points program type). The thermal paste on my cpu was a single line down the middle like arctic recommends. I assume q-tips wouldn't leave any micro fibres of the sort. Though you may have misread my wording, I mean I literally cleaned the whole top plate of the processor and all of the heatsink, there is no remaining compound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 i too am getting high temps...have been for a while i have an i7 3770K it needs 1.3 volts to be stable at 4.5ghz and gets up to about 90C on blend and small fft usually either makes it go to 105C and throttle or just plain shuts off computer...after months of these high temps i just realized that i had never cleaned off the old thermal compound from the stock heatsink when i put on the H80i LOL...next time ill use this arctic silver **** i got...the cleaner stuff and arctic silver 5 paste...waiting to get the PWM fans and might need to RMA the cooler if i cant get the stupid freakin controls to work on it...and from watching the newegg example of arctic silver 5 as far as i can see your supposed to put a little over half the size of a pea in the middle and put on the heatsink Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 The thermal compound was removed and cleaned using a q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol. Additionally the new paste was wiped onto the heatsink using a plastic sandwich bag over my finger, and scraped smooth with a plastic membership card(points program type). The thermal paste on my cpu was a single line down the middle like arctic recommends. I assume q-tips wouldn't leave any micro fibres of the sort. Q-tips shuff all all sorts of fibers, some of them you can see, some you can't unless using a darn extreme magnifier. Even fingerprints are too big to be allowed in the sink/CPU interface. Though you may have misread my wording, I mean I literally cleaned the whole top plate of the processor and all of the heatsink, there is no remaining compound. I'll leave it to the reader to decide for themselves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 as far as i can see your supposed to put a little over half the size of a pea in the middle and put on the heatsink It really depends upon the CPU. There are different methods for each, as described in the Arctic Silver instructions. Some benefit from the Rice Grain method (a pea-sized drop is too big), and some benefit from the Line method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nec_V20 Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Look using anything less than 99% Isopropanol then you might as well be wiping your *** with sandpaper. If you don't know for sure, then sniff the bottle for 20 seconds and if you don't pass out get yourself the real batch and if you do pass out then hope to God that you remembered where you got the bloody stuff and didn't leave a cigarette burning in the ash-tray. Arctic silver contains **** that conducts electricity - like the effing word "Silver" in the name didn't give it away - I still use arctic MX-2 and guess what, my track record for having systems running happily is a damned sight better than most of the others posting here. If you use too much of the "Silver" stuff and it squoodges over then welcome to Mr. Shortcircuit and Mrs "I don't give a **** but you are not buying another one". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Nec_V20, you made my day. :biggrin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nec_V20 Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Speed, I couldn't resist. You opened the door Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Happy to help. ;): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 It really depends upon the CPU. There are different methods for each, as described in the Arctic Silver instructions. Some benefit from the Rice Grain method (a pea-sized drop is too big), and some benefit from the Line method. I said half a pea size and nec v20 I was actually looking at the mx stuff but I had already bought the silver so eh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nec_V20 Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Ach come on Bryman, I was having a bit of banter with that post. I thought that was obvious. I was not having a go at you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nec_V20 Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Speed, you are a bad influence on someone who is already a bad influence on himself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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