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H100i Issue with Corsair Link.

Tillian

By Tillian
in Cooling

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Tillian

Tillian

Posted
Posted

Hello all,

 

I'm having problems with my H100i (Firmware 1.0.4) to do with the latest Corsair Link software. I've tried numerous versions of the software (Originally with Windows 8, but have now downgraded back to Windows 7)

 

Now my problems are that:

A) Corsair Link will not recognise my H100i unless I disconnect my keyboard (Logitech G15 v1) which I cannot understand the reasoning for.

 

B) The green and red LEDs on the H100i don't appear to be working. Sliding R or G do nothing with the LED but sliding B will adjust the brightness of the LED which stays only as shades of blue.

 

I've had the H100i for just over a month now and these problems have been with me since Day #1 with both Windows 8 and Windows 7.

 

 

Regards,

- Tillian

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Tillian

Tillian

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Try connecting the fans directly to the MB and see if the grinding stops? btw, are these 3pin fans or PWM fans?

 

I haven't connected the fans to the MB since the grinding seems to have stopped alltogether, so I don't know what that was about. These are the 3-Pin Fans.

 

Corsair Link cannot decide when it wants to detect my H100i (even with the different keyboard) though when it doesn't detect a system reboot normal fixes things.

 

My Green and Red LEDs are still not working. :(

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webdevii

webdevii

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Update: Since upgrading to firmware 1.0.5 my H100i pump has begun to make "clicking" noises. :/

 

You are heading for a future disaster, read on and good luck. Usually Clicking noise is the sign of liquid missing out of the system because it uses a rubber impeller to pump the liquid thru the system if it leaks or gets low for some unknown reason it will click just as mine did. Check for wet spots around the Compression fittings at the water block and the radiator for moisture. They also put a blue dye in the liquid so you can detect leaks. I can assure you at some point you are going to have a leak and a disaster. It is not worth it, follow my advice below before your rebuilding your computer due to water damage.

Dev

 

Corsair is an awesome company, however in regards to the H series Liquid CPU cooling systems there is a big design flaw in these. Due to them being a closed system there is no avenue for pressure to be relieved when the liquid gets warm/hot. Thus they tend to rupture the compression seals that seal the tubing into the water block, when this happens your computer will suddenly and without warning be subject to a nice Shower of conductive liquid thus frying anything it touches. I can say this from a personal experience. I had the CWCH100 Closed Loop System and after about 20 hours of use the water block seals ruptured thus causing permanent and unrecoverable damage to my GTX-680 GeForce Graphics Controller ($600.00) and my LSI-9207 SAS Raid Controller ($350.00) and of course the H100. Corsair however has been very very cooperative in working with me on my damage claim for the 2 controller cards that were damaged and of course automatic replacement of the H100, which I am not going to install, but post on eBay sealed in box for sale.

 

So with that said I hope this post helps someone out there avoid the agony that I went through.

Dev

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Tillian

Tillian

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You are heading for a future disaster, read on and good luck. Usually Clicking noise is the sign of liquid missing out of the system because it uses a rubber impeller to pump the liquid thru the system if it leaks or gets low for some unknown reason it will click just as mine did. Check for wet spots around the Compression fittings at the water block and the radiator for moisture. They also put a blue dye in the liquid so you can detect leaks. I can assure you at some point you are going to have a leak and a disaster. It is not worth it, follow my advice below before your rebuilding your computer due to water damage.

Dev

 

Corsair is an awesome company, however in regards to the H series Liquid CPU cooling systems there is a big design flaw in these. Due to them being a closed system there is no avenue for pressure to be relieved when the liquid gets warm/hot. Thus they tend to rupture the compression seals that seal the tubing into the water block, when this happens your computer will suddenly and without warning be subject to a nice Shower of conductive liquid thus frying anything it touches. I can say this from a personal experience. I had the CWCH100 Closed Loop System and after about 20 hours of use the water block seals ruptured thus causing permanent and unrecoverable damage to my GTX-680 GeForce Graphics Controller ($600.00) and my LSI-9207 SAS Raid Controller ($350.00) and of course the H100. Corsair however has been very very cooperative in working with me on my damage claim for the 2 controller cards that were damaged and of course automatic replacement of the H100, which I am not going to install, but post on eBay sealed in box for sale.

 

So with that said I hope this post helps someone out there avoid the agony that I went through.

Dev

 

I've checked all "leakable" areas of the H100i and it's all bone dry. The clicking/grinding has stopped and hasn't returned so I doubt what you say will probably happen. It's a good informative post though, so thanks. :)

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wytnyt

wytnyt

Posted
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You are heading for a future disaster, read on and good luck. Usually Clicking noise is the sign of liquid missing out of the system because it uses a rubber impeller to pump the liquid thru the system if it leaks or gets low for some unknown reason it will click just as mine did. Check for wet spots around the Compression fittings at the water block and the radiator for moisture. They also put a blue dye in the liquid so you can detect leaks. I can assure you at some point you are going to have a leak and a disaster. It is not worth it, follow my advice below before your rebuilding your computer due to water damage.

Dev

 

Corsair is an awesome company, however in regards to the H series Liquid CPU cooling systems there is a big design flaw in these. Due to them being a closed system there is no avenue for pressure to be relieved when the liquid gets warm/hot. Thus they tend to rupture the compression seals that seal the tubing into the water block, when this happens your computer will suddenly and without warning be subject to a nice Shower of conductive liquid thus frying anything it touches. I can say this from a personal experience. I had the CWCH100 Closed Loop System and after about 20 hours of use the water block seals ruptured thus causing permanent and unrecoverable damage to my GTX-680 GeForce Graphics Controller ($600.00) and my LSI-9207 SAS Raid Controller ($350.00) and of course the H100. Corsair however has been very very cooperative in working with me on my damage claim for the 2 controller cards that were damaged and of course automatic replacement of the H100, which I am not going to install, but post on eBay sealed in box for sale.

 

So with that said I hope this post helps someone out there avoid the agony that I went through.

Dev

 

you need to understand the expansion of liquids and at what temperature they do so,,obviously you clearly do not.

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peanutz94

peanutz94

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You are heading for a future disaster, read on and good luck. Usually Clicking noise is the sign of liquid missing out of the system because it uses a rubber impeller to pump the liquid thru the system if it leaks or gets low for some unknown reason it will click just as mine did.

No, he'/she is not heading for disaster. RamGuy asked about the fan being 3 or 4 pin because it's a known issue that the three pin fans cause the clicking noise.

 

They are also a sealed system , so the level in the coolers dosen't change. I still have an original H50 still running strong with no change in temps.

 

You also have no way of "guaranteeing" that the unit would leak. Since they first launched the coolers I have seen only a handful of them leak. Less than a dozen out of how many thousands of units sold? They sell tens of thousands per month!

You have better chances of winning the lottery than getting a unit that would leak. So they do NOT have a tendency to blow seals. Sorry thats just not a true statement.

He states if properly done the failure rate is about 1/10th of 1 percent. unlike the H series. which to me seems like about a 5% failure rate which can get very very expensive depending on the class of machine your installing it in.

There are pro's and cons to both. I use a custom loop myself, and also the Hseries coolers. If your loop fails you have no recourse. At least I have seen Corsair cover damaged components from the few units that have leaked. Granted each case is handled individually and they really do not have to replace anything. But they have anyway.

 

 

 

While failure rates may be around 3-5% that is "unit " failures. Not leaks...which is a hell of lot less than that. Even given the 3-5% FR it is still within the industry standard for acceptable failures.

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Tillian

Tillian

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H100i not being detected in Corsair Link2 so I'm going to restart my PC and see if anything shows.

 

EDIT: Boot #2: H100i still not being detected in Link2.

 

EDIT: Fans have started rattling sometimes though not severe I've sent a RMA request.

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Virusx86

Virusx86

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Oh my god, yesterday I booted up and fans 3 and 4 were not showing up, now the whole h100i isn't showing up in corsair link, now all four fans are running at 100% and loud as hell.

 

Great freakin' update, this thing worked best straight out of the box with the old software, wish I'd never tried to upgrade the firmware :(

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Bryman

Bryman

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ugh im trying to get my 3-pin fans working...already submitted an RMA and stuff for the PWM fans but like when i was trying to get it working...i was trying different motherboard plugs and stuff but i tried this one and all of a sudden i knew my disk was going REALLY slow and also noticed my light was almost nonstop on for my ssd so im like ? so then i open resource manager or whatever in task manager and it says disk was 100% and 0kb/s and im like WTF (and note that the longer my computer was on the slower and slower it was getting) so like first it seemed fine but it was getting REALLY slow so i tried restarting then i couldnt even get the menu up on bottom to restart! i finally just did a hard restart...anyway last time i tried everything was like REALLY slow like i would close chrome it would show a white page then getting dimmer and dimmer for about 5 seconds until it finally closed everything was like 2-5 frames per second...i think my link cable is just ****ed up i bet the new PWM fans wont fix the problem...oh also it doesnt even detect the H80i...ugh...really ****ed up thing with the disk problem and 3-5 frames per second for whole computer though i mean WTF 100% disk usage and 0kb/s?...idk what the **** happened but...really ****ed up lol i REALLY hope that the new PWM fans fix the problem...
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Bryman

Bryman

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what really pisses me off is with each firmware update it gets worse...one it came with i could control for about an hour before i had to replug in fan controller...1.04 could see H80i temp but couldnt control fans...1.05...completely dead...wow this is great bull**** good job corsair...sorry im just really angry and depressed right now i ****ing love corsair but their software is just really buggy...might just be my link cable i dont ****ing know but good job...
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wytnyt

wytnyt

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what really pisses me off is with each firmware update it gets worse...one it came with i could control for about an hour before i had to replug in fan controller...1.04 could see H80i temp but couldnt control fans...1.05...completely dead...wow this is great bull**** good job corsair...sorry im just really angry and depressed right now i ****ing love corsair but their software is just really buggy...might just be my link cable i dont ****ing know but good job...

 

dont take this wrong but wouldnt it be fruitful to have a reputable shop take a look at it and diagnose if its hardware or software problems?

theres a factor being missed and a few bucks is worth the hassle.

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  • 1 month later...
JohnK187

JohnK187

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Man I can't thank you enough,

when you said you had the same keyboard as mine (Logitech G15),

I tried booting up without the G15 plugged in, and voila... Fan-control inside Corsair Link,

without having to hot-swap the usb-headers inside my MoBo...

 

Now I can at least leave the case closed and just have to re-boot any time I want

to change fan-settings (or LED, for that matter, while my Red LED is already broken, unit is 2 weeks old...) WITHOUT the G15 plugged in.

 

As soon as I plug it in though while having booted into Windows, the controls stop functioning...

 

Pity, as it could be a superb product, Corsair please fix this.

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JohnK187

JohnK187

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john187

try hooking your kb to a rear port and both may work for you.

 

thanks for the advice, kb is already on the back-port,

I'll try doing the opposite and boot up with the kb plugged into the frontpanel

of my Corsair 500R,

 

let you know if it works (that would be REALLY strange, but lets see anyways...)

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