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Corsair c70 "Planetside2's New Conglomerate" Case Mod Project

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"PLanetside2" is the sequel to the landmark MMO FPS has been revealed and is bigger and better than ever. PlanetSide 2 is a massive multiplayer online first person shooter. Game play delivers truly epic combat on a scale never before seen in stunning, breathtaking detail. Battles wage with literally thousands of players aligning with one of three unique factions in intense land, air and vehicle gameplay where the fight for territory is more than a victory, its survival. This "New Conglomerate" (commonly abbreviated NC) case mod is for Planetside2's Art Director, Matt Higby. The NC is one of three empires waging for control over the planet Auraxis. They are characterized by hard-hitting weapons and heavily-armored vehicles that are designed with straight lines and hard edges. Their faction colors are blue and yellow.


Matt will be utilizing Corsair's H100 CPU cooler for the best optimal cooling.


we took time out to create c70 replacement windows here, http://www.mnpctech.com/Corsair_c70_vengeance_clear_window_replacement.html

on 10/4/12, Finished installation of Turbine Intake last night. I envisioned something evocative of heavy duty power equipment, with lines connecting to the sides that look hydraulic hoses.




120mm Overkill Fan Rings Link, http://www.mnpctech.com/120mm_Overkill_Fan_Grills.html
















My canvas is Corsair's new Vengeance c70. It's a rugged, military inspired design. It arrives equipped with lots of features. It includes three Corsair 120mm fans, with the option to add seven more 120mm fans. Option to mount 240 or 360 radiator in the top panel. It has eight expansion slots. The retail price is $139.99. You can read my Corsair c70 Vengeance Case Review


Factory Specification List:

Warranty: Two years

Dimension: 19.7" x 9.1" x 21" / 501mm (H) x 232mm (W) x 533mm (L)

MB Support: ATX, mATX

Expansion Slots: 8

Material: Steel

Drive Bays: Three (3x) 5.25” bays, and Six (6x) 3.5”/2.5” hard drive bays

Cooling Fans Included: Three (3x) 120mm fans

Front I/O: (x2) USB 3.0, (x1) Headphone, (x1) MIC, Power, Reset Switches

Power Supply: ATX (not included)






Onto the first Case Mod!




The first modification is converting the c70's factory window to plain window without any fan hole perforations.


I'm also debating about installing a 200 or 230mm PC cooling fan in the window








The c70 window assembly dismantled. Save the 16x Black screws! We will be using them to re-install out custom window.




The new window will be cut from 24" x 24" sheet of 1/8" thick, Clear, cast acrylic. I'm tracing the factory window dimensions onto the sheet.




Using Vertical Saw to cut the new window.




Going on 6 years ownership of my 14" Grizzly Vertical saw w/o a hitch.. You can use 1/8″ x .025 bi-metal blade for cutting acrylic and metal sheets. I usually cut 1/8″ thick sheets, http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G0580-14-22-Bandsaw-HP/dp/B0007D2WS8




This step is optional! I Rounded corners in the window with Hand file.




Using "Plas-Drill" 1/4" drill bit to make insert holes for the mounting pegs, on the 4 individual Black window trim pieces. The best drill bits for plastics are spur-point bits, also known as dowel bits. They are specifically angled to make smooth cuts in the material. A spur-point bit has a central point and spurs that keep the bit aligned, maintaining a clean, neat hole.




Place the acrylic sheet onto the panel and mark off the locations for mounting peg holes.




Using 1/4" Drill bit made for Plastic.




The acrylic sheet is placed on backside of the panel in this photo.




Reinstall the 4, Black window trim pieces into the panel. The pegs on the trim piece protrude through the panel and into your acrylic sheet, (after removing the paper backing on your acrylic sheet).




Remove the paper backing, then install the acrylic sheet. The pegs on the Black trim should protrude through.




Use the 16x factory Black mounting screws, you removed to install your new window. You will need washers. You can get washer from Hardware or Home Improvement stores. I chose these fan grommets as spacers, to mount the acrylic sheet.




Close up of fan grommets being used as spacers, to mount our custom window.




Our new window is installed!






Now Matt can view into his PC without anything obstructing his view. Next stage is customizing the c70's front bezel with something a bit more Industrial look.. Be back soon! :biggrin:

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Thank you for tuning in stratos! Yes, many people have asked how to replace the factory window :biggrin:


I'm envisioning this PC to emulate Field Equipment used by the New Conglomerate... I want to make the bezel much more aggressive and Industrial look.






Lancool K58 bezel




The K58 over the c70 bezel.




K58 bezel over c70.






Removing the Corsair c70 front grill.

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Very nice, How many fan grommets did you need? Also does it matter what blade is on the vertical saw? And do you have to have that drill bit or is it just recommended? Also when you were cutting this, did you trace a line onto the paper and then cut along the line or did you use the original window as a guide for the blade? Could you have rounded the corners with a vertical saw or is it recommended to do it by hand with a file? Also where did you get your plexiglas from?
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Thank you for your comment, joejoe69


Very nice, How many fan grommets did you need?


16x, but you can use washers instead of the grommets. I stated this in my guide


Also does it matter what blade is on the vertical saw?


Use whatever cutting tools you have access to.. I used a vertical saw for straight line cuts.


And do you have to have that drill bit or is it just recommended?


You don't have to use that bit, but you risk cracking the window with normal bit.


Also when you were cutting this, did you trace a line onto the paper and then cut along the line or did you use the original window as a guide for the blade?


I traced the factory window dimensions onto the sheet. I stated this in my guide, under the photo.


Could you have rounded the corners with a vertical saw or is it recommended to do it by hand with a file?


It's optional, as stated under the photo of the hand file


Also where did you get your plexiglas from?


You can buy Plexiglass sheets at Home Depot or Lowes, in the Window section. I prefer the clarity and durability of "Cast Acrylic" which you can order online here

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Thank you for your comment, joejoe69




16x, but you can use washers instead of the grommets. I stated this in my guide




Use whatever cutting tools you have access to.. I used a vertical saw for straight line cuts.




You don't have to use that bit, but you risk cracking the window with normal bit.




I traced the factory window dimensions onto the sheet. I stated this in my guide, under the photo.




It's optional, as stated under the photo of the hand file




You can buy Plexiglass sheets at Home Depot or Lowes, in the Window section. I prefer the clarity and durability of "Cast Acrylic" which you can order online here


Thank you very much for your time and reply, I was just really nervous about screwing everything up. Also this looks like it is going to be AWESOME, can't wait to see it finished.

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My vision for this PC is to look like futuristic military field equipment used by NC soldiers. I will be creating a unique cooling fan intake. I want to simulate something evocative of heavy duty equipment, with lines connecting to the sides that look hydraulic hoses. Here is what I have in mind of parts so far....




120mm LEPA Chopper LED Cooling fans Link,





120mm Overkill Fan Rings Link, http://www.mnpctech.com/120mm_Overkill_Fan_Grills.html





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The New Conglomerate Badge will be on the right side panel. Instead of just painting it on the panel, how about a Three Dimensional version? Hell Yeah! So I surveyed my pile of acrylic.. I got some Transparent Blue and Clear. No Yellow, but I can always paint it!




All of the acrylic I'm using is Cast Acrylic, 1/8" thick. I printed out the logo, cut it, and traced around it, onto a 12" x 12" sheet of Clear acrylic.




I used the Vertical saw to cut the traced pieces from the acrylic sheets.




Cutting notches in the wingspan.




Refining and defining the cuts with Hand File.




Detailing the star, from the center of the logo.




I'm debating about implementing some metal into the piece as well... Maybe mount the logo on metal shield... (back to the bench!)

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I'm creating a unique cooling fan intake. Something evocative of heavy duty equipment, with lines connecting to the sides that look hydraulic hoses.











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Today, I stated creating a junction box for all of the simulated hydraulic lines from the Intake Fan. This will be located on the front of the chassis. I'm using an outdoor Outlet enclosure. I've attached Round hole

Modders Mesh with DP-190 Epoxy. The enclosure will be painted Silver aluminum.







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@stratos! Thank you for your awesome support Bro!


@joejoe, Use this Arc Reactor Fan Grill for IRON MAN case mod someday


I painted the New Conglomerate shield last night.




I prepped the acrylic surface for paint by 1st scuffing the surface with Red Scotch brite pad.




Next step is applying Primer coat, I used RUSTOLEUM Enamel, from Home Depot.




I let the Primer cure for 2 hours...




I applied RUSTOLEUM's #7747 Sunburst Yellow, Enamel paint




I let the Yellow cure overnight....

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Instead of just applying the logo on the factory case panel... I want something with a more industrial and rugged look.




I want the perimeter of the factory frame for a new backing plate on the right side panel.




I used a Jigsaw with 18 TPI cutting blade to remove the center of the factory window.




I used a hand file to clean up the edges of the factory window frame.




I'll be mounting the logo on this aluminum plate with louvered vents. I cannibalized this sheet from AMS gtower CF-1009 case side panel, which was discontinued several years ago.




I painted the frame with Plasti-kote "Aluminum" color Engine Enamel Paint.




Aluminum panel mounted on modified c70 factory window.

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The NC shield is now attached onto the panel.




The paint finish is not going to remain shiny and new...




I'll be hand painting and airbrushing the finish with distressed and weathered look, much like this NC Soldier's body armor.


...Thanks for watching! and I'll keep hammering away at this, so please Stay tuned :biggrin:

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OK, I'm not going to comment after every update you make because it interrupts the flow and I'm running out of superlatives.


This will be the last until you're done - but I am checking this thread daily and just making appreciative noises to myself.


You've achieved the impossible and made me shut up!



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@stratos, No worries, and Thank you! :cool:


In-progress shots from the paint booth.




The paint I applied is Acrylic Lacquer Metallic Blue.




Under normal circumstances when applying Metallic Paint, you must apply top coat of Clear, but I deliberately skipped the Clear, to create this Dull SATIN finish.


Remember, I don't want the case to look shiny and new. I'm going to distress and weather the exterior, so this PC looks like it's survived some action in the field..






I've painted the junction box and Modders Mesh in Silver Aluminum.




Lancool K58 bezel with Round Modders Mesh.




Next step is installing the front intake fan and connecting the hoses...

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Rollin along here! Yesterday, I mounted the New Conglomerate shield onto the left side panel. I used socket head fasteners. This afternoon I'll start hand painting everything with distressed and weathered paint effects. Matt made it clear that he wanted the surfaces to look weathered. He sent images of the NC soldiers for inspiration.









Matt wants the finish of the case to reflect the weathered armor on this New Conglomerate Soldier. I'll be using an airbrush and combination of different paint brushes, and sponges to weather the edges of exterior.







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Matt wants the exterior to look aged and weathered.




Water Drop Masking: "Distressed & Weathered Look"


1. Spray entire surface with Water Spray Bottle

2. Use Airbrush over water drops with Enamel Paint

3. Allow to dry 1 minute

4. Use Paper Towel and Dab up the water, Don't Wipe!








Airbrushing shadows with Iwata around the NC shield, with Brown







Airbrushed mix of Grey / Black enamel paint over the vertical vents in the panels, to create aged effect.




You can see the water spots in the Blue exterior..




Scratched and scuffed the shield with red Scotchbrite pad and 80 grit sandpaper...


I'll be in the workshop on Sunday, applying more surface effects and adding some Yellow striping, inspired buy the NC armor.

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