Problems with Fan control on H80

[jacksonn24]

on my H80 when i have on the 3rd fan setting doesnt run full speed. i plugged fans in to mobo sys fan contoll 1 and to and they run max .is there problems with this on the h80 or anyway to fix it?

[Arctic_Wolf]

Start off by checking that you have installed everything correctly. You don't give very much information on what you have done thus far, or mention any steps that you took to physically install everything!!! Ergo, I'll try and offer a few suggestions for you to try out in the hope they will help :o).

 

Additionally, when you say the "3rd fan setting doesn't run full speed". Are you saying that when you select the 3rd profile the radiator fans simply stop altogether? Or, that when selecting the 3rd profile, you can't detect an immediate change in speed by sight or sound?

 

When set to the 3rd profile, the H80's controller doesn't just immediately spin up the radiator fans to full RPM's and maintain that full speed constantly. The H80 unit will increase or decrease the speed of your radiator fans dynamically and as required.

 

Try selecting the 1st profile, and put your CPU under heavy load, listen, and watch your temps using an App such as CPUID HWMonitor or Open Hardware Monitor, (or any personal preference you may already have) for example. Then, select the 3rd profile, and once again place your CPU under heavy load, then see if you can detect and audible difference and a difference in temps between the 2 profiles with the CPU under such loads!!

 

Otherwise......Can we assume that you have connected the Molex? Have you connected the Tacho lead (enabling you to monitor the pump speed) from the H80 onto your CPU_FAN Header? Further, ensuring that you have disabled dynamic/automated fan control for that specific header in your BIOS).

 

If you are uncertain of how to do this, you could try connecting the Tacho lead to your PWR_FAN Header in the meantime, or whilst you troubleshoot and sort out disabling automated control of your CPU_FAN's Header.

 

If all of this is already correct, next try a "Firmware Reset". I had a small glitch with mine on first installation and it required a reset. There are several differing posted ways to do this. The following worked for me.....

 

1) Shut down/restart your PC. If your radiator fans are not presently connected to the H80 unit itself, reconnect them to the H80 now.

2) Start up, but DO NOT allow the system to boot into Windows, go into your BIOS, (delete key on your board).

3) Press and hold down the profile button for approx 5 seconds. You should then see the lights on the unit illuminating/blinking in a circular motion.

4) Shut down your system again.

5) Restart and test accordingly.

 

All being well your H80 should then work as normal. If not, other posts on this subject or issue describe a slightly different way to reset your firmware, I have pasted them in below for you, but hopefully the above should sort it providing there isn't another separate issue with your H80 causing the problem.

 

Hope the info helps and good luck with your new H80.

 

-----

 

To reset the firmware, use the following procedure:

 

1. While the computer is running, hold down the profile button for approximately five seconds

2. Wait one minute, while the unit continues to run

3. Shut down your computer

4. Press and hold the profile button for five seconds while turning on the power to your computer.

 

-----

 

1. Power/Shut down system.

2. Hold button on cooler for 3sec, keep holding it and turn on the system.

3. H80 goes through a firmware reset with lights blinking, and after a short while the fans spin down from max to normal operation (after POST).

[parsec]

A Wolf has provided a great description of how things should be done.

 

One more thing that IMO should be included in the H80's and H100's instructions is the fan speed graph for each fan speed profile setting, which you can see by clicking on the link.

 

http://www.corsair.com/media/cms/Blog/H100_buildlog/profile_chart.jpg

 

Note that the difference in fan speed between each profile when the CPU is cool, is only 300 - 400 RPM. That change in fan speed may not be obvious noise-wise, particularly when the PC has other fans running, so may give the impression that nothing happened when you change profiles. It is also possible that the fan control firmware needs a reset, in which case the fans won't change their speed when you press the button on the pump. In rare cases, the firmware will not reset, and you can contact Corsair for support, or RMA the cooler if that happens.

 

You can use a separate fan speed controller if you'd like manual control of the fans. The Corsair fan controller does not have a bypass or full speed setting. The fan speed control of three pin fans provided on mother boards is almost always not very flexible, and may not be able to monitor the CPU temperature and change fan speeds as it changes. A few boards do offer that option, but the fan speed profiles provided by the boards software are not flexible enough to match the Corsair controller.

 

A-Wolf, so you've been able to do a firmware reset while in your board's BIOS? That's great, I don't understand why being in the BIOS/UEFI would interfere with the firmware reset, since that is not suggested as a method by Corsair, but I don't understand all the inner workings of their fan controller.

[Arctic_Wolf]

 

A-Wolf, so you've been able to do a firmware reset while in your board's BIOS? That's great, I don't understand why being in the BIOS/UEFI would interfere with the firmware reset, since that is not suggested as a method by Corsair, but I don't understand all the inner workings of their fan controller.

 

 

Hello Parsec m8, hope ya OK :)??

 

Indeed, I can't be bothered to trawl back through to my original post on the issue, (it'll no doubt be in my list of "posts created" too, but I'm about to log off lol).

 

Yes, when I posted about the problem with my H80 just after installation, some kind soul advised me specifically not to let Win boot, and simply enter BIOS and sit there. Once there, carry out the firmware reset procedure, wait for the rotating lights, and then reboot.

 

The method I was given worked flawlessly and the H80 has been 100% since :). I'm not going to tempt fate by doing a further reset using the other methods just to find out if ALL of them will reset the firmware when nothing is wrong lol. With my luck, it'd all go "tilt"!!

 

I can't speak for other H80's obviously, but when my CPU is under heavy load, (other than gaming/music when I can't hear it anyway), I certainly know about it when the radiator's fans spin up to max. My GTX590 is capable of putting out some dB's too, but the H80's fans when at max chat make their presence very much felt.

 

At system start up as well, when the H80 goes through it's own POST, it spins the radiator fans up to absolute max for 4 - 5 seconds which I really know about as they get extremely loud, but hardly surprising at 2700 RPM's, before dropping back to the required dynamic speed.

 

I leave my H80 set on profile 3 too, I never change through the profiles. Little point if the unit only spins the rad fans up when really needed, but is otherwise quiet enough when not under heavier loads :).

 

I'm speculating, but as you say, given that the H80 has it's own onboard firmware etc, does it really make any difference what the system is doing when carrying out a firmware reset????? Is it possible to simply carry out a reset at any time, then simply reboot???? The unit isn't software controlled externally is it, can't see why a reset shouldn't be able to be carried out as and when required!!

[peanutz94]

I'm speculating, but as you say, given that the H80 has it's own onboard firmware etc, does it really make any difference what the system is doing when carrying out a firmware reset????? Is it possible to simply carry out a reset at any time, then simply reboot???? The unit isn't software controlled externally is it, can't see why a reset shouldn't be able to be carried out as and when required!!

Awsome question. I would like to know this as well.

[wlw_wl]

The idea of doing the reset procedure in BIOS and not letting it boot into OS is good because there's no load on the CPU and thus no risk of it overheating as probably during the reset, the unit isn't actively cooling.

 

Also I notice that at any time during the unit's operation when a fan is connected to one of the headers on it (tested on H100) the fan will go through fast-slow cycle just like when the PC is being powered on. So it seems that each channel works independently and "knows" whether there's a fan connected to it.

[Arctic_Wolf]

The idea of doing the reset procedure in BIOS and not letting it boot into OS is good because there's no load on the CPU and thus no risk of it overheating as probably during the reset, the unit isn't actively cooling.

 

Indeed, certainly stands to reason!!! I think the main point Corsair are trying to make without actually having said it is.....

 

.....To use some means of diverting your system from booting into Windows, and/or otherwise avoiding additional load on the CPU at a time when an H80/100 may not be working optimally, (if and when in the middle of a reset).

 

Whether you enter a BIOS/EUFI, or other possible examples where the system can just sit as idle as possible, such as pre-Windows boot entering a RAID set up option, entering a dual boot option, or even deliberately force your system to "halt on" an error, (no keyboard).

 

I certainly can't claim to know the inner workings of the fan controllers either LOL. There obviously has to be the prerequisite of power to the hydro cooling unit, but at the same time as little load as possible on the CPU whilst resetting, just in case there are issues during the reset itself perhaps??

[parsec]

Arctic Wolf, I am fine my friend, thank you, I hope you are well, as well. :D:

 

The only reason I asked about doing the reset while in the BIOS/UEFI, is that as far as I know, Corsair never recommended that as a method.

 

As I recall in at least one thread in the Cooling forum, and I may be wrong, the Corsair rep said you should not do the reset while Windows is up and running. That does not make sense to me, but what do I know? Next, I could swear they said to boot into a DOS disk, or a DOS based Utility program, apparently to prevent the main OS from starting. Again I did not understand the need for that. Or is this all Forum Post Legend, that I have ascribed to Corsair?

 

As you all know, you can start your PC and enter the BIOS/UEFI without any OS drive present, or any drives or bootable media connected to the PC at all. Of course you're stuck in the BIOS (except for those ASUS boards that had a small processor on them that let you run a browser, has anyone ever used one of those, just curious...) but you can stay there indefinitely.

 

I don't agree that the CPU does nothing when the BIOS/UEFI UI is running. What else is running it besides the CPU? Can you POST and run the BIOS/UEFI without a CPU mounted in the mother board? If so, educate me about that. :thinking:

 

A UEFI "BIOS" can be, according to what I've read and experienced, a greater load on a CPU than a plain old BIOS. It is apparently so much of a load (~50%+ on one core only, supposedly) that many users of ASUS 6-series chipset boards were complaining in their mobo forums about the CPU temperature reading while using the UEFI being "to high". I have one of those boards, and read some of the complaints. I use a H60 as the CPU cooler, so I don't have that so-called issue (complainers usually used the stock Intel cooler on i7-2600Ks and i5-2500Ks, which are tiny.) I must say that the CPU temperature was higher while running the UEFI than the CPU temp in Windows at idle. But I digress deluxe... no not really.

 

Your explanation about resetting the firmware under low CPU load conditions makes sense, but I wonder if it is really that risky. In the discussions about the high CPU temperature while running the UEFI I mentioned above, it was said that CPU power saving options, like SpeedStep or CoolNQuiet (?) are not active until after the OS boots, or actually until the UEFI/BIOS hands off control to the OS loader. That makes some sense, but I still wonder about it. My point is that given the scenario I described above, the CPU temp can actually be greater when running the UEFI than when Windows is up but at idle. I still think that is much ado about nothing, given the time frame of the reset and changes in fan speeds.

 

One thing I noticed is in this FW reset instructions, this excerpt found in a sticky in the Cooling forum:

 

To reset the firmware, use the following procedure:

 

1. While the computer is running, hold down the profile button for approximately five seconds

2. Wait one minute, while the unit continues to run

3. Shut down your computer

4. Press and hold the profile button for five seconds while turning on the power to your computer.

 

That is, the power cycle (on to off to on) of the PC and of course the Fan Controller and it's FW. A simple Windows restart does not cause a power cycle, or most UEFI/BIOS updates. Is the power cycle essential? Apparently not in your case Wolfie, which I'm not questioning. Perhaps in some cases, a hard reset (power cycle) of the pump/firmware is necessary.

 

(OMGawd, do I dare mention this...) So wlw, do you see your next mod to the H100's power source here, the Firmware Reset switch... ;):

[Arctic_Wolf]

All excellent points Parsec :biggrin:!!

 

I also agree that the CPU isn't doing anything when the system is sat in the BIOS or powered on, obviously a CPU has to be both present AND active, or again as you point out, the system wouldn't run at all :eek:. I did actually give examples and say too.....

 

....."where the system can just sit as idle as possible" :idea:......

 

.....Not, "the CPU is completely inactive".

 

Again, further stands to reason a graphical EUFI would utilise slightly more CPU over a plain old BIOS, with the obvious Graphical Interface requiring extra resources, and other additional support features that a EUFI provides over a good old text based BIOS.

 

The debate on the specific issue is also intriguing too, and I wouldn't mind finding out from source if the published process by Corsair is given as an "advisable method", to avoid complication?? Or, brings me around full circle again back to....

 

I'm speculating, but as you say, given that the H80 has it's own onboard firmware etc, does it really make any difference what the system is doing when carrying out a firmware reset????? Is it possible to simply carry out a reset at any time, then simply reboot???? The unit isn't software controlled externally is it, can't see why a reset shouldn't be able to be carried out as and when required!!

 

Again, not that I'm going to try it for the sake of it, but I have a feeling that you probably could simply hold down the profile button at any time for the required period, wait for the lights to cycle display to inform the user that the unit has reset, power off, power on reboot, all done and dusted :cool:. It's just not the recommended procedure. If at some time I do find myself having to carry one out without choice, I will try it then and let you know.

 

 

Oh, and......

As I recall in at least one thread in the Cooling forum, and I may be wrong, the Corsair rep said you should not do the reset while Windows is up and running.

 

I seem to remember reading something either VERY similar as well m8, it may well have been the very same post on these forums too, (after I had carried out my reset).

 

I too also seem to recall reading 3 or 4 different versions of specifically how to reset an H80/100 after I had to do mine as well. Whilst they slightly differed individually and I can't remember exact specifics, I can recall again as you pointed out, that the one thing they did all agree on was NOT to let the system boot into Windows prior to carrying out the reset!! That does seem to be the one universal part of the procedure. Where otherwise, some may have carried out their reset in a slightly different fashion, then posted about it, and you and I remember reading them perhaps, (therein some of the "legends are born") LOL!!!!???

 

Given the frequency of these resets required, I can't help but think a more obvious "sticky" on the topic of "Firmware Resets" would be of great help too :D:. I know it's covered under "Please Read If You Are Having Fan Controller Issues on H100", having looked back in there again, but people often post to ask how to carry one out without reading it first, missing that sticky lol!

 

I do hope that the OP has sorted out his issues now that we've piggybacked his thread a little too lol ;):.

[parsec]

Wolfy, forgive me, I was not implying that you said a CPU was doing nothing when the UEFI/BIOS was running, I was just discussing a different post or two in the one I had directed to you. CPU usage when a BIOS is running is something I've never seen discussed anywhere, but I may have missed that. I certainly agree that a UEFI, with it's GUI (speaking in acronyms), IMO would use more CPU processing than a standard BIOS. The high CPU temp while running the UEFI business I mentioned is vaguely related to your idea that the cooler FW reset was best done during low CPU load, a good idea and quite likely why Corsair suggests that method (again assuming that is the case.) IMO it's obvious that the firmware in the H-series coolers that have it is completely isolated from the OS or anything else in a PC.

 

You've made excellent points, I certainly agree with all of them. Some other thoughts, during a FW update, does the pump stop pumping? Do the fans stop spinning completely? No, but if they did it would be for a very short time. Still, that might be long enough for a disaster.

 

But, I imagine Corsair thought they should not put themselves in the situation where a user decided to do a FW reset, while they were running a CPU stress test with Prime95, etc. "Oh come on, who would ever do that?" If it can be done, it will be done. That's not cynical, just pragmatic.

 

Your idea about another sticky on this topic is good, although one exists now as you pointed out. The problem is some people simply do not look for or read what's available, even if it's right on their screen. An example of that happened in another companies forum I haunt just the other day, where someone complained about some information about some software not being provided by that company. I checked, and on the download page for that software, the information the person wanted was right there, not via a link, but printed on the download page, on the same screen as the download button! IMO, things like this may be why manufactures don't bother supplying comprehensive instructions with their products, since they know many people won't see it or read it anyway. Not to mention they'll complain about it, whether it's there or not.

[Arctic_Wolf]

LOL. I hear ya m8 :). No worries.

 

I know a couple of people that would probably be stupid enough to carry out a reset during a full on stress test hehe. Worst part is, if it went wrong through their stupidity, they'd attempt to RMA whatever got cooked. Then, we wonder why hardware prices are so high LOL????

[FeniX]

tried all reset procedures to the letter on 2 different Corsair H80 units and none works, the fan controller is not responding to the selected fan speed, it always spins at the same rate (medium setting I think).

 

sorry to say that, but since I have 2 brand new Corsair H80 units at home and both show same faults, I'd say this is a junk product. sending it back for a full refund, tired of this crap. going with a real water loop.

[wlw_wl]

If you're scared of the BIOS eating away your CPU, then just press PAUSE/BREAK while on the POST screen and it will sit there doing nothing, until you press another key.

[RAM GUY]

tried all reset procedures to the letter on 2 different Corsair H80 units and none works, the fan controller is not responding to the selected fan speed, it always spins at the same rate (medium setting I think).

 

The fan's speed does not happen instantaneously, it will take some time for the profile to kick in because it will depend on the coolant's temp. Best way to test it is run the system under stress test like Prime95, wait for about a min then start changing profiles and see the fan's rpm will change accordingly. Again, it may take a couple of seconds before it goes to its appropriate fan speed. See link for reference, http://www.corsair.com/blog/understanding-the-hydro-series-h80-and-h100-cooling-performance-profiles/

[FeniX]

The fan's speed does not happen instantaneously, it will take some time for the profile to kick in because it will depend on the coolant's temp. Best way to test it is run the system under stress test like Prime95, wait for about a min then start changing profiles and see the fan's rpm will change accordingly. Again, it may take a couple of seconds before it goes to its appropriate fan speed. See link for reference, http://www.corsair.com/blog/understanding-the-hydro-series-h80-and-h100-cooling-performance-profiles/

 

One thing that bothers me is that after the fw reset completes lighting the LEDs in a circular motion, all of them stay lit (3 bars and a little dude pictogram) and nothing happens really until I push the button a few times. at this point the fan profile bars are being lit up wrong until I press it a few more times (they keep changing in an erratic manner) ... worth noting that sometimes the fans will stall at this point completely and they will NOT turn on no matter what profile is selected. some other times it would work, but keeping the fans at same predefined speed at idle and bumping the fan speed up a bit under load ... but I do NOT think it's bumping it up to maximum. the fans sound differently (louder) when connected straight to the PSU.

 

For time being I keep the fans connected straight to PSU at all times (full blast), but even this way it seems the cooler is inefficient under load when CPU is overclocked, e.g. 2600K running 4.8GHz with 1.42v vcore.

 

so the fan profiles are automated and they fall back to silent speed when coolant temp is below certain temperature? had no idea. in fact the fans start spinning faster when CPU under load reaches like 80C, but what's the point? it's too late already to keep the temp level low. the pump is too weak to cool it efficiently. that's why I kept it plugged in straight to PSU and even then at higher OC it will let the temps out of control - I fixed the loose backplate with washers, helped to beat temps by ~5C, but eventually it still happens. ... sounds like the pump is too weak... and to be honest I get similar temperature results under load when using a $50 HDT air cooler with a 2,500rpm fan and good TIM ...

 

sorry, I sent it back already and purchased an XSPC water cooling kit instead.

 

EDIT:

oh, and I forgot to mention this, but if the Corsair logo and the H80's profile button are supposed to be lit (saw it like that in pics), then on both units I had the logo and button always turned off and I haven't seen them lit ever even when doing the fw reset. not sure what it means, but it points to some electronics problem inside the fan controller ... again.

 

also the last test I did just minutes before ripping my system apart to remove the cooler, was to use high setting profile and start LinX stress tester. the fans stayed at default speed and did NOT kick in at all, even after 2 minutes into test when temperatures were already reaching 76C across cores at 4.5GHz on 2600K with 1.325v vcore. the last unit (second one) is already packed up for return shipping to newegg. Corsair Hydro, never anymore for me, sorry i tried and wanted to use it, but thanks to horrible quality and bad designs this wasn't possible on a modern Z68 build.

[babdi]

The little dude lights only during FW reset,else he is off

[wlw_wl]

Hmm you said that he lights up when the profile setting requires attention, now this, care to share where's this info coming from?

[babdi]

He lights up when you reset firmware not otherwise. Can you point out where I said otherwise

[wlw_wl]

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=575057&postcount=43

[babdi]

wlw

You are reading it wrong. What I said was the little fella is put there to tell that "the user" need to press the button manually to change the profile

[wlw_wl]

After the reset procedure, right. I understood that each time the chosen profile is too low it will light up, my mistake. But is it officially explained anywhere or is it guessed by users?

[babdi]

In my rig it does not light up anyway