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H60 90C Load Temp


allen5055

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I have an i2500k running at 4.6Ghz with 1.392V at full load, which is 1.33V with Step 6 multi-line load on my Gigabyte Z68XP-UD3P v1.0

 

I've always been suspicious that my H60 is running far too hot. I have a push/pull configuration with a Scythe 38mm Ultra Kraze. I recently downloaded HWMonitor from CPUID and I found that my core is running at 90C under a Prime 95 small ftp Torture Test. I redid my thermal paste, which is Arctic MX-4, and I noticed that it seemed off-center even though when I installed the water block I was careful to use an X method to tighten the screws. I reinstalled the paste but the H60 is still running as hot as ever. I have the push/pull fans set to exhaust from my case, and my case is typically about 35C under full load.

 

When I remounted the water block I noticed that the back plate has about 1mm of play on the lower half of my motherboard, while the top end is flush. I tried rotating the back plate and using different screws for each corner but it didn't make a difference. However, when the water block is mounted it seems to be very tight.

 

Does anyone have any ideas why my temperatures are so much higher than everyone else's? Please help. I will probably remount the water block for a 3rd time to make sure the paste distribution is even.

671667252_H60Temp.thumb.png.678d691c7fc059fcb3db387b5a7ea04f.png

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Although those are full load temps with an OC, they could be better. There are several potential issues to check.

 

The H60's back plate has on one edge of the inner square portion of it's frame, two small notches that are easy to miss. The notches are there to accommodate two bumps (rivet heads?) on the CPU socket's back plate. If those notches are not aligned with the bumps on the socket's back plate, the H60's back plate will not fit optimally on the socket's back plate, and could cause inadequate contact pressure between the CPU and pump heat plate. It sounds like you've noticed an incorrect alignment or pressure on the CPU from the TIM imprint. That could be caused by this, and should be checked.

 

Recently some users have had issues mounting the H60's pump, due to what seems to be thin mother boards. That is, there is play between the wide base of the H60's threaded standoffs and the board when the standoff is screwed into place. The standoff stops screwing into the back plate before the wide area contacts the board. That is caused by the nuts on the back plate protruding above the top surface of the board. That does not happen on the majority of boards, I have two H60's on two very different boards, and both allow me to tighten the standoffs down so they contact the board firmly, without any play. If you experience this, a washer/spacer can be added under each of the four plastic spacers used on the back plate. Some users claim they had the play problem, but once they tightened down the pump's thumb screws, the pump was tight against the CPU. This is worth checking a correcting if necessary.

 

Finally, some boards have parts (capacitors, inductors) that are so close to the CPU socket that they contact the H60 pump, and prevent optimal pressure on the CPU. Only you can determine if that happens on your board, but usually that happens on socket 775 boards.

 

Using the H60 in intake mode can make a difference, particularly when you need the utmost cooling. What are your idle temps like?

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Although those are full load temps with an OC, they could be better. There are several potential issues to check.

 

The H60's back plate has on one edge of the inner square portion of it's frame, two small notches that are easy to miss. The notches are there to accommodate two bumps (rivet heads?) on the CPU socket's back plate. If those notches are not aligned with the bumps on the socket's back plate, the H60's back plate will not fit optimally on the socket's back plate, and could cause inadequate contact pressure between the CPU and pump heat plate. It sounds like you've noticed an incorrect alignment or pressure on the CPU from the TIM imprint. That could be caused by this, and should be checked.

 

Recently some users have had issues mounting the H60's pump, due to what seems to be thin mother boards. That is, there is play between the wide base of the H60's threaded standoffs and the board when the standoff is screwed into place. The standoff stops screwing into the back plate before the wide area contacts the board. That is caused by the nuts on the back plate protruding above the top surface of the board. That does not happen on the majority of boards, I have two H60's on two very different boards, and both allow me to tighten the standoffs down so they contact the board firmly, without any play. If you experience this, a washer/spacer can be added under each of the four plastic spacers used on the back plate. Some users claim they had the play problem, but once they tightened down the pump's thumb screws, the pump was tight against the CPU. This is worth checking a correcting if necessary.

 

Finally, some boards have parts (capacitors, inductors) that are so close to the CPU socket that they contact the H60 pump, and prevent optimal pressure on the CPU. Only you can determine if that happens on your board, but usually that happens on socket 775 boards.

 

Using the H60 in intake mode can make a difference, particularly when you need the utmost cooling. What are your idle temps like?

 

Your tip about the notch in the backplate worked wonders. Now my heatsink is flush and the temps dropped about 20C under Prime 95 large ftp torture test even with my fans on low. When I took the backplate off I noticed that the thermal paste was thick. The backplate catching on the notch must have made the heatsink sloped on top of the CPU allowing the paste to have a thicker layer than was optimal. I've attached a screenshot with my new temps. Thanks a lot bro.

943910914_H60TempNEW.thumb.png.493f46af0e84fa00046024703f669ee3.png

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Great, glad that helped.

 

Wow what a difference! I didn't think aligning the backplate right would change it that much, but you're no doubt right about the thickness of the TIM. I also think it makes a big difference in the pressure between the CPU and heat plate, which is just another way of saying what you did. When I saw your idle temp of 25C, I was worried nothing would change your load temps. I know of at least one other user that I helped with the back plate alignment, I wonder how many of those coolers are used with it not in the right spot.

 

Off topic, the CPU power readings in that screenshot surprised me, 113A and 157Watts! The program I use never shows figures that high on my i7-2600K, even when I had it a 5.0GHz. Frankly, I thought the figures I had were low, so yours seem more accurate. My overall CPU temp hit 80C in that case, but yours at 71C max running Prime95 at that OC is great with a H60. When set up correctly, they work very well. I forgot you use a U' Kaze, how do you control it's speed, or is it wide open all the time?

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Great, glad that helped.

 

Wow what a difference! I didn't think aligning the backplate right would change it that much, but you're no doubt right about the thickness of the TIM. I also think it makes a big difference in the pressure between the CPU and heat plate, which is just another way of saying what you did. When I saw your idle temp of 25C, I was worried nothing would change your load temps. I know of at least one other user that I helped with the back plate alignment, I wonder how many of those coolers are used with it not in the right spot.

 

Off topic, the CPU power readings in that screenshot surprised me, 113A and 157Watts! The program I use never shows figures that high on my i7-2600K, even when I had it a 5.0GHz. Frankly, I thought the figures I had were low, so yours seem more accurate. My overall CPU temp hit 80C in that case, but yours at 71C max running Prime95 at that OC is great with a H60. When set up correctly, they work very well. I forgot you use a U' Kaze, how do you control it's speed, or is it wide open all the time?

 

157 Watts makes a lot of sense to me for my voltage bump and clock increase. I've was able to lower the voltage a few notches to 1.38v from my previous 1.392V with the superior cooling now. Actually, I can boot and run Prime 95 full load for a few hours at 1.36V but I get random BSOD even though Prime can run. I rarely ever run the Ultra Kraze wide open. I've attached a screenshot with my Ultra Kraze throttled down to 40% and running Prime 95 overnight. Now that my temps are so much lower I'll probably never really turn the Ultra Kraze up again actually. I use a NZXT mesh fan controller.

645300440_H60Temp-3.thumb.png.e7fc08bb42e7872c621612348399bf7e.png

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