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H60 backplate


Roy_C

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Hello, How tight should the backplate be with just the studs installed? No pump installed yet. Mine doesn't tighten all the way down. I can lift up on the stud and then push it back down. A very slight bit but? The thickness of the nut that goes through the MB is thicker than the MB itself which causes the gap. I didn't try installing the pump yet because I was missing some hardware. I requested a new hardware kit today through RMA. Will it tighten up when I install the pump?

 

MB- Asus P8Z68-V

 

Thanks Roy

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The double-ended pump mounting studs should easily screw into the backplate and be tight and flush against the mother board with no play or looseness whatsoever.

 

I understand what you described about the threaded sleeve on the four mounting points at the corners of the back plate protruding above the surface of the mother board. That should not happen, period. The portion of the "nut" on the backplate that fits into the holes on a mother board is no more than 2mm/1/8" above the larger diameter portion of the nut that presses against the underside of the mother board. I have an unused H60 backplate that I am looking at now, so I am sure what it looks like. I've also mounted and use two H60's.

 

You must have a defective back plate, actually the four threaded inserts in it, since I cannot see how you can be assembling it incorrectly. Unless ASUS has suddenly changed to ultra-thin circuit boards, no one has had this problem and posted about it in this forum AFAIK.

 

Don't install your H60 with that back plate, wait for the replacement. If it is the same, we'll need to figure out what is going on.

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Thanks for the detailed answer parsec.

 

I received an email from Corsair today directing me to their web store where I could order a Hydro Series H60/H80/H100 Universal Bracket kit CW-8960002.

 

Hope this cures my problem.

 

Later Roy

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You are welcome. I must say it is weird that (I assume) all of the mounting sleeve-nuts are protruding above the mother board's surface. I could understand one bad nut, but four seems unlikely. Unless the factory used a batch of out of spec nuts, which means we could see more of this. Is this happening to you on all the mounting studs, or just one?
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Mine also has a tiny bit of play on the Asus motherboard. But I have found that this is not a problem as when you tighten down the water block it clamps fully tight to the CPU as this stands high enough from board.

If there is any play after fitting block then yes you need to RMA unit for new fittings.

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Good to here clive. I thought it would tighten up after the pump was installed but wanted to know if anyone else had noticed the play in the backplate.

 

I originally requested a RMA because of missing hardware. I received a stud with with threads on only one side. :confused::bigeyes: After that is when I noticed the play in the backplate.

 

Hope the new backplate will seat flush with the MB but some how I doubt it.

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FWIW, my H60's back plate fit perfectly on two different ASUS boards, for socket 1366 and 1155 CPUs. The latter is a P67 board, but why that should be different than a Z68 board when mounting a CPU cooler is unknown to me.

 

Actually, if you found washers that were perfect in size, so they fit over the portion of the nut that is inserted in the holes in the mother board, that would take up the slack you are experiencing. Ideally, they would be non-conducting, not to thick, and not have a large diameter.

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I myself have just done this myself in the last hour as my bolts were really lose. I have some m5 3/16" washers lying about and the worked perfect for me and dropped temps by a few degrees but mines still running unusally hot.
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Hello Ram Guy, I cant post a pic of the backplate mounted because I didn't have all the hardware when I was building so I installed the stock cooler. I received a mounting stud with threads on only one side. I requested a hard ware kit to remedy the problem and then I noticed the loose backplate.

 

As for your question: And are you sure its fitting flush on the CPU and the mount screws are all tightened evenly? I'm quite sure the backplate was Installed correctly. The concave cutouts were on the top so they didn't contact the 2 screws. I tightened and re tightened the studs a number of times. I even used a 6mm nut driver to make sure.

 

The problem is with the part of the backplate that sticks through the MB. Its thicker than the MB.

 

H60-Backplate.jpg.62a8e996f3af3e9dee0e80dcd98b2a46.jpg

 

If, when I receive the new hardware kit, there is still a space between the studs and the MB can the cooler be installed or is it a no go? I will take a pic when I get the kit if I have the same prob. It might be hard to get a good pic because its only slightly thicker.

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I looked at your pic, and I have a H60 back plate that I can examine, it's right here on my desk. The four retention nuts at the corners of the back plate are round and have a wider lower area that contacts the bottom of the mother board, and a much narrower portion that fits into the holes in a mother board. Judging by my eye, the height of the narrow portion is very close if not exactly the same height as the larger diameter lower portion.

 

Using a good metal ruler but still by eye, the height of the entire nut, both lower and upper portions combined, is 5mm. It appears to me that the height of each of the two portions is 2.5mm.

 

If the new mounting kit does not eliminate the space between the mother board and studs, I suggest using very thin washers on the retention nuts, or small pieces of electrical tape with holes in them, placed over the holes on the mother board, several layers if necessary, to get the correct clearance. It would also be possible to file down the tops of the retention nuts a small amount to accomplish the same thing.

 

If the Corsair parts you have and will get are not out of spec, it seems that your mother board is thinner than usual, which could also cause mounting problems for other CPU coolers as well.

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Thanks for all your help parsec, its greatly appreciated. I also was thinking of some sort of spacer between the backplate and back of MB. Don't think I can come up with anything thin enough though. Washers are just too thick.

 

I received the hardware kit Monday. The backplates appear to be the same thickness.

 

I would like to get a reply from Ramguy or someone from Corsair to this question. Should I install the cooler if there is still a gap between the MB and the stud?

 

Thanks.

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It's a good idea to get the final word on your question from Corsair, but I believe they will tell you it is essential to have no gap between the stud and board.

 

Even with the pump's brackets tightened down on the top of the studs, any gap or play between the stud's bottom and the board will allow the copper plate on the bottom of the pump to pull away from the CPU. While that gap may be small, it is huge relative to the contact needed between those two surfaces.

 

Washers over the ends of the backplate nuts will work, as long as some of the narrow portion of the nut extends into the holes in the mother board. It's strange that your board seems to be thinner than others, yours is the first report of this in this forum that I am aware of. I thought that there is a spec for the thickness of boards in that area (at least from Intel) specifically to insure that CPU coolers will function correctly.

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Just wanted to mention that I seem to have the same issue with my Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD4 board. The studs seem to be about 0.5 mm longer than the board is thick. I don't know if that's the cause, but so far I haven't managed to get good contact between the CPU and the copper baseplate of the pump housing. The thermal grease "image" on the CPU only covered about a third of the CPU area. I'll try the trick with the washers tonight and report back. (Unfortunately my H60 also seems to suffer from the ratting pump syndrome so I might have to RMA it anyway :(:)
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I had this exact problem as well, what I did to remedy it was to place a 3/16" washer between the plastic washer and the backplate.

 

Pull off the plastic washer then add the new washer and replace the plastic one.

 

The studs bottom out on the backplate at a point where you can no longer tighten them.

 

I had a few washers left over from adding extra pull fans to my H100 they worked perfect.

 

I'm using a Asus Sabertooth X58.

 

Wish i had taken pictures now lol

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I had this exact problem as well, what I did to remedy it was to place a 3/16" washer between the plastic washer and the backplate.

 

Pull off the plastic washer then add the new washer and replace the plastic one.

 

The studs bottom out on the backplate at a point where you can no longer tighten them.

 

I had a few washers left over from adding extra pull fans to my H100 they worked perfect.

 

I'm using a Asus Sabertooth X58.

 

Wish i had taken pictures now lol

 

Hmm, interesting, I use a H60 on my SaberT X58 board, and I did not have any issue with a gap with the mounting studs and backplate, I am certain of that.

 

Good to hear users speaking up about this, but it really seems strange to me. Something seems to have changed, but besides the thickness of the board, or the nuts on the backplate, I can't see what is causing this. Are the threaded portions of the studs threaded the entire length down to the base or wide portion of the stud?

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I just registered on this site so I could chime in and state I have issues with the H60 backplate as well. I'm using a ASUS board with socket 1155. The studs come up through the motherboard. Actually 2 of the studs are short in length than the others. So it appears there was a QA issue somewhere in production. Nonetheless I've used some teflon spacers to correct the thickness differences.
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ballsack, your description makes the most sense IMO, and is likely the root cause of this. Your teflon spacer fix is a great idea, to bad those will not be easy to find for many people.

 

Most hardware stores have small rubber washers, less than one millimeter thick that would serve a similar purpose, and are not to soft. So called fiber washers are also available, which would work too.

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Sorry to here of others problems but glad to know my case is not unique.

 

I think the hardware kits are inconsistent in specs and parts. Both kits I received had missing and unusable parts. I also believe that this problem goes unnoticed and therefore unreported. I don't think everyone is going to pull up on the studs to check for tightness. Might be wrong in that assumption though.

 

@ballsack, where did you get the teflon spacers?

 

Would still like to here from Corsair on this problem.

 

Thanks

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I don't think everyone is going to pull up on the studs to check for tightness.

 

You nailed it with that statement. The backplate is flexible so once its on there it appears all good from the top of the board. Only reason I noticed it was by pushing on the back and seeing the studs move up off the board about 2mm or so.

 

I then realized, hmm, if I leave this like it is the only thing really holding the waterblock down on the CPU top is the TIM. Now it wouldnt slide side to side but it could be lifted and break the seal of the TIM.

 

I also agree using non conductive washers/spacers to shim the excess play from the backplate. I used what I had on hand but thats why I put them between the plastic washer and the backplate.

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...

 

I also agree using non conductive washers/spacers to shim the excess play from the backplate. I used what I had on hand but thats why I put them between the plastic washer and the backplate.

 

I'm sorry but I don't understand how your method works. I'm not saying it doesn't work, I just don't get it.

 

In my experience with the backplates, the larger diameter portion of the four nuts on the backplate should (must) be contacting the bottom of the mother board when the threaded mounting studs are fully screwed in. I've seen other backplate designs that use a thick spongy material to contact the mother board, or the backplate only contacts the retention plate of the CPU socket, leaving a gap between the back plate and the mother board. Once I worked with the Corsair backplate, I new it was a better design than others I have seen (assuming all the parts are in spec, and my examples are.)

 

If the smaller diameter portion of the backplate nuts, which are inserted into the holes in the mother board, protrude above the top surface of the mother board, the pump won't contact the CPU correctly, period. In that case you would have the play between the bottom of the mounting stud and the top of the mother board, since the bottom of the stud is contacting the top of the backplate nut, instead of the mother board. Besides the backplate nuts being out of spec, or the board being to thin (seems unlikely), I can't see what else is wrong.

 

Shims/washers placed on the backplate mounting nuts can compensate for the narrow portion of the nut extending beyond the top of the mother board, but the shimmed backplate nuts should then be contacting the bottom of the mother board when the studs are tightened down. If not, something is wrong.

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Sorry to here of others problems but glad to know my case is not unique.

 

I think the hardware kits are inconsistent in specs and parts. Both kits I received had missing and unusable parts. I also believe that this problem goes unnoticed and therefore unreported. I don't think everyone is going to pull up on the studs to check for tightness. Might be wrong in that assumption though.

 

@ballsack, where did you get the teflon spacers?

 

Would still like to here from Corsair on this problem.

 

Thanks

 

Try Fastenal or Grainger. Or any company that deals with seals/o-rings.

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I'm sorry but I don't understand how your method works.

 

Yeah, hard to explain without a picture. If the female threaded part of the backplate sticks up too far above the motherboard, adding a washer on the back won't allow it to penetrate as far, thus the hex part of the stud doesn't bottom out.

 

But since I used metal washers (It's what I had handy) and I didn't want metal on the back of my board for obvious reasons, I pulled off the factory plastic washer that is already on the backplate ,then put the metal washer on it, and the plastic piece back on.

 

Now the threaded holes from the backplate were no longer taller than the board is thick.

 

So, essentially all I did was reduce the amount the backplate penetrated the board by 2-3mm.

 

If your case has an opening behind your CPU socket and its easy to take a visual inspection at your backplate, make sure those factory plastic washers are firmly against the board. If in doubt check it out.

 

Cheers

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Had to read a few posts more than once. Its late here.

 

Heres where I would place the washer. Between the large diameter part of the backplate nut and the bottom of the MB. This way the small diameter part of the nut would be lowered allowing the hexagonal part of the stud to contact the top of the MB. This, I think, would provide a way of achieving the pressure needed for adequate cooling.

 

Still waiting Corsair?

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Had to read a few posts more than once. Its late here.

 

Heres where I would place the washer. Between the large diameter part of the backplate nut and the bottom of the MB. This way the small diameter part of the nut would be lowered allowing the hexagonal part of the stud to contact the top of the MB. This, I think, would provide a way of achieving the pressure needed for adequate cooling...

 

Yes, I agree that is a good method for the reasons you mentioned, as well as to allow the backplate nut, with washer, to contact the bottom of the mother board.

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