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black wire on cpu block


rapidcycler

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[quote name='rapidcycler']is this wire needed in order for the hydrocool to operate and is there a way to bypass it if necessary?[/QUOTE] the bells an whistles will be silenenced an the protection also if probe is disconnect display will show 12c constant you can use the RS 271-0110 senor as asubsotute for hc senor
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You can leave the thermister wire disconnected but the display on your Hydrocool will only display 12C and you will not get the overheat warning and shutdown safety features of the Hydrocool. I would recomend you don't do this as ther will no protection for your system should the Hydrocool fail. Why do you want to bypass it anyway? :confused:
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[quote name='rapidcycler']i want to add a different cpu block or you could say i did cant i JUST PUT ANOTHER TEMP SENSOR ON THE NEW BLOCK AND PLUG IT INTO THE BOARD FOR THE HC[/QUOTE] To do that, you would need to match the thermal resistance of hcx senor. this unit supports -50 to +110 degree C range [url]http://support.radioshack.com/productinfo/DocumentResults.asp?sku_id=271-110&Name=Manuals%20for%20271-110&Reuse=N[/url] if not the correct ohm's to temp ratio, the display will read wrong 0-20 +/- Stev is the best person to ask for correct information thanks Stev so this unit is the same R25 value 10k ohms with 1 +/- an the B value of 3435k ohm . do it will be less sensive by 500k ohm
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I have the same type of question. Basically I want to take the CPU block OFF completely and just use the HC just to cool the GPU and NB. I want to add a temp prob so the display is correct and whatnot so I can have those features on the GPU. I will be using the Koolance blocks and whatnot. What is the best method of doing all this as my CPU will soon be cooled by a Vapochill LS.
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[quote name='KaptCrunch'] Stev is the best person to ask for correct information[/QUOTE] Ok, here is the info ... This is made by our friends at Shibaura. Some of the expensive luxury cars have these sensors. [url]http://www.shibaura-e.co.jp/english/product/sensor/air.htm[/url] The first product is the KTEC-41. It is basically identical to the HC type we use. The only difference is the head size on the HC is 3.1mm while the standard part for the KTEC-41 is 5mm. The only other info not listed on that page is: Resistance value: R(25C)=10k Ohms +/- 3% B-Value (25C/50C)=3950K +/- 1.5% Hope this helps. Stev
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[quote name='stev']Ok, here is the info ... Resistance value: R(25C)=10k Ohms +/- 3% B-Value (25C/50C)=3950K +/- 1.5% Hope this helps. Stev[/QUOTE] thanks Stev so 271-0110 RS unit has the same R value 25c@10k ohms with 1 +/- the B value of 4161k ohm@50c hmm less sensitive by 1.7% looks like good subsatute for hc sensor
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Let me know if you find one that works... I am really looking into just using the HC for NB/GPU cooling.... not for CPU anymore and I need to change the sensor.. or just attach my own and use one of those bay drives that show temp... don't wanna do that though.
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Taodragon00 Lian Li makes a dual sensor unit that fits into one of the bays. I got several of these and used the sensors as you are wanting to. I made my own LCD display housing and it works fine. Coolerguys.com had the unit and the model is the "T4". here is the site [url]http://store.coolerguys.com/840556007548.html[/url] Let me know if you need more info. Here is a pic of my LCD display unit.
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Yea something like that if I can find a temp probe for it. I guess I don't need the HC features since I keep it on normal most of the time and I've never had turbo kick in by itself, I just turn it on myself. I just need to find a place that actually has one in... or I can just use one of the other two slots on the Vapochill LS for temp probes.
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[quote name='Taodragon00']Yea something like that if I can find a temp probe for it. I guess I don't need the HC features since I keep it on normal most of the time and I've never had turbo kick in by itself, I just turn it on myself. I just need to find a place that actually has one in... or I can just use one of the other two slots on the Vapochill LS for temp probes.[/QUOTE] why would you need to remove senor from HC WB, aren't you using on GPU,NB.? or senor for NB block or a secondary senor the RS 271-0110 will replace the HC senor by +/- 1.7% error
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  • 1 month later...
[quote name='Jay112']Does anyone know of any online stores that sell these probes because the wire on my cpu block snapped off and it broke on the connector side(the bit that connects to the pcb)[/QUOTE] Jay sound if its snapped the Pin Header from PCI board? you any good with soldering iron and a new pin header [url]http://edac.net/en/Online/detail.cfm?ID=78[/url] in canada here a link for probe [url]http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=2400CGTD&Category_Code=220[/url] the calibration i dont know if same as HCX KTEC-41 senor, it mite be off a few degrees you may have to use a fine resistor pot to dail it in
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Im going to the Shack today lets hope their equiped. I got a new question what the other wire on j1 for ?? The system seems to work fine without me connecting it maybe its superflous?also I've had another questions wieghting heavily on my mind since I am watercooling is it nessary to have case fans anymore, would a fan shroud help cool my Black Ice Rad (I have an intake and outake fan on it already)? can the Hydrocool function properly with out its enclosure? how come some people have their pump go PUMP->CPU->CHIPSET->RES->RAD does it matter what order the water goes through?well these are some of what goes on in my mind when i look at my HC. thank you for your consideration.
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[quote name='Kalel']also I've had another questions wieghting heavily on my mind since I am watercooling is it nessary to have case fans anymore, would a fan shroud help cool my Black Ice Rad (I have an intake and outake fan on it already)? can the Hydrocool function properly with out its enclosure? how come some people have their pump go PUMP->CPU->CHIPSET->RES->RAD does it matter what order the water goes through?well these are some of what goes on in my mind when i look at my HC. thank you for your consideration.[/QUOTE] yes case fans are still needed to cool MB and cards, if noise is a factor get some fan speed adjusters like Enermax UC-A3FATR2-SL 2 Channel Temp/Rheo/RPM or others. RES->PUMP->CPU->CHIPSET->RAD
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[quote name='Kalel']Where should i put the probe on a dagner RBX waterblock and how? I'm thinking electrical tape any objections ? perphaps some type of thermal glue? Holler back with any suggestions, much appreciated thanks.[/QUOTE] Kalel, Electrical tape. Nope. It will not hold up over time, plus the adhesive will get all gooey on the cold-block. Thermal glue isn't a good option either since taking the probe off for replacement or onto a new cold-block isn't possible. The solution is, white thermal tape. Place the probe near the center-top of the cold-block for AMD applications (to avoid the hold-down-clip), on the Intel applications place it at the top center. Then apply the white thermal tape. To assist, you can tack the wire down with a drop of hot-glue from a hot-glue gun. [url]http://www.frozencpu.com/cgi-bin/frozencpu/thr-18.html?id=TDZprUj5[/url] You can cut the thermal tape to size to fit the thermal-probe (sensor). Place the thermal probe (sensor) onto the cold-block and then place the thermal tape over it. Stev
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Let's assume I am not going to take the thermistor sensor off and am going to keep it on "forever" would "Arctic Alumina" be the correct choice? Here is a 2 examples of what Im thinking of doing. Above idea [url]http://home.comcast.net/~spadwaller/rbx-amd-waterblock.jpg[/url] Underneth idea [url]http://home.comcast.net/~spadwaller/rbx-amd-waterblock2.JPG[/url]
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