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H50 + EVGA Classified


Yellowbeard

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ATI/AMD cards on an EVGA mobo... BLASPHEMER!!! lol. How does that H50 work for you so far? I am running 3xGTX 280's and an i7 965EE on the same loop with idle temps at ambient on the CPU and about 38C-42C idle on the cards. At full (gaming) load I'm about 34-36C on the CPU and about 52C on the cards. I was thinking of getting the H50 to split the loop without having to use up alot more space.
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ATI/AMD cards on an EVGA mobo... BLASPHEMER!!! lol.
I have to love both companies equally :D: And, the red looks good with the MOBO.

 

How does that H50 work for you so far? I am running 3xGTX 280's and an i7 965EE on the same loop with idle temps at ambient on the CPU and about 38C-42C idle on the cards. At full (gaming) load I'm about 34-36C on the CPU and about 52C on the cards. I was thinking of getting the H50 to split the loop without having to use up alot more space .

I just put the rig together last night to do a bit of gaming. I have not even torture tested the H50 with the 965 EE ES CPU yet.
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Come on, show us pictures of the radiator and the heat-sink interface. Or more interesting, the measurement from the edge of the motherboard to the heat-sink.

 

I know some people can mount the H50, but I don't know if the issue is a variation on the mounting of the heat-sink or the heat-sink(s) itself.

 

For me there is quite a bit of interference. Both pictures show the unit mounted with 1 screw and the radiator tilted to show the overlap.

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/364/h50heat2.th.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/1472/h50heat1.th.jpg

I can push it behind the heat-sink if I bow-out the back of the case and bend the heat-sink. But, I don't want to do that permently.

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I installed the EK Full Board block which involves removing the heatsinks so I had np with the install. The one thing I can see is it seems that most people are mounting the H50 with the hoses on the heatsink side instead of up top. I never even thought about mounting it the way you have it for some reason.

 

The Push pull setup looks to work with the heatsink installed. You might try that and rotate the H50 around so the hoses are on the heatsink side?

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If you mean, mount the radiator so the hoses are on the bottom verses the top, the radiator is slightly shorter on the side without the hoses. For people with interference, any little bit would help.

 

Since mine won't fit either way, I actually mount it with the hoses down because I'm paranoid. I'd rather have the hose below the water block in the unlikely event there was a leak. It also seems to makes sense to have the hoses on the bottom.

 

Since you removed your heat-sink, you should be in a position to answer. Is there much variation possible in the mounting of the heat-sink that would explain why some people seem to have plenty of clearance and other can't fit the H50?

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I removed the entire heatsink setup from EVGA and installed a very low profile block so I had no problems at all with clearances. I even have almost enough room to run tubing underneath the H50 but the 1/2 inch I.D. tubing is just a bit too big. I actually installed the waterblock before even test fitting the 760 Classified so I never observed any problems with clearances with the H50.

I really don't understand why you seem to be having problems with the H50. I was looking at Yellowbeard's pics trying to figure it out and comparing them to your pics but I didn't pay enough attention to some things. Are you running a larger than 25mm fan in the rear or is it the 120 that came with it? I installed a Yate Loon 120mm by 25mm fan in the back to mount the H50 on and may run another one in push pull depending on temps once I get around to tweaking my system. I really wish I could offer some help but I just don't understand the clearance problems unless the heatsink was not seated correctly from EVGA. Have you found many other people with the same problem?

The stock heatsink is huge and if it is not seated, it could cause a problem I would guess but I don't see a variation in yours as compared to mine when I pulled. I have some pics in the gallery of my Heatsink installed and working on some for here.

498356343_HeatsinkRemovedSmall.jpg.c68327ee89c4e7fa1e29ec11da81e376.jpg

1191829770_WaterblockInstalled.jpg.025e94fd2f0ce54ea2b01c20126359d5.jpg

1923389027_MoboSmall.jpg.e0b7e4e16dee567f61fa412fbe5dd26b.jpg

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What I asking you to confirm, was whether there was a way that the stock cooler can be installed that would change the clearance with the H50? From the pictures of the removed heat-sink I’ve seen on the web, it doesn’t appear to be the case. The heat-sink appears to simply bolt straight-on.

 

BTW, I’m using the standard fan.

 

I did finally manage to mount the H50 using the correct screws holes. First, I removed all the motherboard screws and mounted the H50. Then I tried to install the motherboard, but couldn’t install the screws unless I pushed the motherboard hard enough to bend the heat-sink back about 1/8”.

 

I attached a piece of aluminum angle to the 140mm fan holes and used it bend out the back of the case until that was clearance with the heat-sink.

 

Since I have the defect back-plane holes, my video card has to be held in with zip-ties. This just made the problem a little worse.

 

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/9260/h50installed.th.jpg

 

The clearance between the heat-sink and radiator is paper-thin, but it’s there. The video card is actually held in primarily by the screw in the slot below it. I used a small black washer to capture the video-card; the zip-tie is more of a safety feature. (The sound-card in the picture turned out to be tilted out of the PCI slot when I tried to boot the system. I ended up securing it the same way.)

 

I don’t know if the problem it restricted to the people with defective back-planes. The posts from them that I’ve read don’t mention it. It would be nice to think that if there is a resolution for it, it would also solve the H50 mounting problem.

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If things are that far out I would try and RMA. The only thing that could possibly happen with the stock heatsink is if the conductive material was too thick but then there would be gaps. It bolts on only one way with a couple of washer so kinda hard to mess it up and have the screws line up as they are very small.
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