Jump to content
Corsair Community

Hydro H50: Help needed to set up fan flow for armor+


daleader

Recommended Posts

After alot of reading and a 3 month chase I was able to get a hold on one of this units. Allow me to thank you guys for such a wonderful design. I was able to drop my idle temp from a 40(using the True) to 35 and my Full load test (using prime 95) by a massive 12 degrees! Ofcourse I havent overclocked and I dont think I well do so as i7 gives me more than enough raw power than I need. However I have faced a quiet a dilemma. I do not know how to set up my fans and it is driving me nuts :(

=-=

A)current setup

http://i25.tinypic.com/oa6qlw.jpg

 

B) Fron intake:

Top:12 cm TT turbo max 1000 rpm

Bottom:14 cm tt Turbo max 1000 rpm

 

http://i30.tinypic.com/391e9.jpg

 

c)Bottom Intake:

left: The fan provided with the Corsair cooling unit: 12 cm 1600 rpm max?

Right:12 cm Sycthe

http://i30.tinypic.com/2zsteog.jpg

 

d)Back intake: 2 Noctura 12 cm max 1200 rpm, push -pull config

 

e)Top outake:

14 cm TT turbo max 1000 rpm

http://i26.tinypic.com/9gezxe.jpg

 

f)Side panel: 23 CM max 700 rpm outtake fan

 

=-=

So is this ok? My temp is at 38 average......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

to me it looks ok but could be better...

 

 

Does the hose stretch down to one of the bottom intake fans? thats where i would put it if possible, then the hot exhaust air could come straight out that big side fan, and you could correct the rear exhaust fan so its not working in the wrong direction.

 

right now its blowing hot air over ur psu, and u got enough intake fans that probably it wont make a massive difference just to turn it around anyway.

 

my last suggestion would be a bit of a ducting modification and pipe air direct from the top front 120mm fan to the rear 120 mm exhaust fan

 

it all depends how far ur prepared to go to lower ur temps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

to me it looks ok but could be better...

 

 

Does the hose stretch down to one of the bottom intake fans? thats where i would put it if possible, then the hot exhaust air could come straight out that big side fan, and you could correct the rear exhaust fan so its not working in the wrong direction.

 

right now its blowing hot air over ur psu, and u got enough intake fans that probably it wont make a massive difference just to turn it around anyway.

 

my last suggestion would be a bit of a ducting modification and pipe air direct from the top front 120mm fan to the rear 120 mm exhaust fan

 

it all depends how far ur prepared to go to lower ur temps.

 

Na I wish the hose were longer. Temps are good but ofcourse the lower the better. I am just worried about summer. I am also a little paranoid because I keep thinking that the pump may stop functioning lol, so I have realtemp on always when i am using my PC.

thx for the comment

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Corsair Employees
It looks like you have the fan pulling air through the radiator instead of blowing the air from outside your case through it. You may get slightly better results if you switch the position of the radiator and the fan that you have mounted to it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am also a little paranoid because I keep thinking that the pump may stop functioning lol, so I have realtemp on always when i am using my PC.

 

thats a big concern for me too. if the fan stops spinning the pc shuts down. if the pump stops then the pc stays on until it over heats and dies?

 

if thats how it works then im gona lower the shut down temp in the bios.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks like you have the fan pulling air through the radiator instead of blowing the air from outside your case through it. You may get slightly better results if you switch the position of the radiator and the fan that you have mounted to it.

I am not sure what you mean.

 

At the moment I am getting air directly across the rad from outside in a push and pull configuration. The back side is no longer acting as an exhuast but it is congfigured the way corsair suggested to be.

 

My manin concern is since I do not have the same case as the one used by the corsair group, I do not know if I am using the correct flow system. As far as I know from the videos no one uses side panel flow while they are using the corsair hydro.

 

However it looks like my temps are establized as my lowest idle is 35 for 2 hrs. Can it get any better than this?

 

PS: Can you give me an estimate when the corsair case well be realized in AUS? Or we have to wait another decade to get that super case :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thats a big concern for me too. if the fan stops spinning the pc shuts down. if the pump stops then the pc stays on until it over heats and dies?

 

if thats how it works then im gona lower the shut down temp in the bios.

 

But mate you got to low the load test temp of 54 max for 3 hrs. I know I havent overclocked but compared to my True, it is an easy 12 degrees different! I havent overclocked properly yet but with a vcore of 1.32 at 3.2 GHZ, my max temp was 72, compared to 85 of true. I doubt i ever overclocked as the i7 speed is more than enough for me. But yes experince allows me to trust corsair.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks good to me and you do have your rear fans correct for pulling air in. I have a case similar to yours but can't post the brand here. I tried reversing the fans on the cooler and the side inlet but went back to air flow like yours and got the best results. I use the Probe software that came with my mother board to monitor the pump. It alarms if the pump shuts down.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

curlysir, thx alot for ther reply.

I was hoping to get me some heatsink for my ram but since the cable is running over the ram in order to reach the fan system pins I cannot do it. The only other option I have is to connect it to my Northbridge fan pins. It is a 3pin molex. Can I do it? Is it ok if I connect the PUMP to a Northbridge design 3 pin connecters?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

curlysir, thx alot for ther reply.

I was hoping to get me some heatsink for my ram but since the cable is running over the ram in order to reach the fan system pins I cannot do it. The only other option I have is to connect it to my Northbridge fan pins. It is a 3pin molex. Can I do it? Is it ok if I connect the PUMP to a Northbridge design 3 pin connecters?

 

There should not be any problem with connecting it to any 3 pin connector. I would choose one that you can monitor, I have 1 connector on my MB that is not reported to the software. I have my pump connected to the CPU connector where I think you have your fans. This way if the pump is not working I get a warning during boot up and my fan monitoring software alarms if it fails. I have my fans on a front mounted fan controller with RPM and temperature monitoring but if you MB has monitoring software you could connect to one of the monitored connectors. You can always get an extension for the pump lead, but I would tape or use a small cable tie to make sure it didn't come unplugged.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I notice bottom intake,is this a Corsair feature as my "other guy" 1200 case does not have bottom intake. I have not yet placed my order for my gaming "other guy" 1200 so I can be persuaded to reconsider.

 

I does seem like a very good idea to puul air in from the bottom. On your set-up out going air is from side and top,correct?

 

Any theory on P/S at the top of the case as opposed to bottom? I am beginning to think top placement is better for getting the air out.

 

Whats the idea behind the internal P/Sfan on the Corsair 850 TX I am using, its pulling air into the P/S correct,how does this air exit?

 

How should the internal P/S fan be worked into the case cooling,should any consideration for it be given? Can it be place to aid the cooling is is it a independant operator?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Multiple cases pull air from the bottom (e.g. mine does as well). PSU fans are there primarily to cool themselves down. Cooling down the case (if at all) is a bonus.

 

The TX850W pulls air from the bottom and expels it out the back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There should not be any problem with connecting it to any 3 pin connector. I would choose one that you can monitor, I have 1 connector on my MB that is not reported to the software. I have my pump connected to the CPU connector where I think you have your fans. This way if the pump is not working I get a warning during boot up and my fan monitoring software alarms if it fails. I have my fans on a front mounted fan controller with RPM and temperature monitoring but if you MB has monitoring software you could connect to one of the monitored connectors. You can always get an extension for the pump lead, but I would tape or use a small cable tie to make sure it didn't come unplugged.

The only reason I plug my pump to a system fan 2 pins is because CPU connectors adjust the RPM of the fan according to the temp, but I want my PUMP to work at is max ability that is why I didnt connect it there. I connect one of my fans to the CPU connecter just for that reason.

I noticed my MB has a north bridge dedicated connector......I am just not sure about the voltage and whether it also regulates its RPM. If not I want to connect the pump there so i can attach my RAM heatsinks....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only reason I plug my pump to a system fan 2 pins is because CPU connectors adjust the RPM of the fan according to the temp, but I want my PUMP to work at is max ability that is why I didnt connect it there. I connect one of my fans to the CPU connecter just for that reason.

I noticed my MB has a north bridge dedicated connector......I am just not sure about the voltage and whether it also regulates its RPM. If not I want to connect the pump there so i can attach my RAM heatsinks....

 

I agree that you want the pump running full speed at all times, I have that feature turned off in bios. On my particular MB I don't like the way it controls the fan speed, no option for modifying, It runs too slow to for adequate cooling. That is the reason I use a front mount fan controller.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I notice bottom intake,is this a Corsair feature as my "other guy" 1200 case does not have bottom intake. I have not yet placed my order for my gaming "other guy" 1200 so I can be persuaded to reconsider.

 

I does seem like a very good idea to puul air in from the bottom. On your set-up out going air is from side and top,correct?

 

Any theory on P/S at the top of the case as opposed to bottom? I am beginning to think top placement is better for getting the air out.

 

Whats the idea behind the internal P/Sfan on the Corsair 850 TX I am using, its pulling air into the P/S correct,how does this air exit?

 

How should the internal P/S fan be worked into the case cooling,should any consideration for it be given? Can it be place to aid the cooling is is it a independant operator?

 

There are lots of cases that pull air from the bottom, mine does. I have a 140 mm fan mounted on the bottom. It does help. I personally prefer the PS being located at the bottom. I will not buy another case with a top mount PS. Mine pulls air from the bottom and exhausts out the back. Take a look at the case manufacture sites and then go to a computer store that has lots of cases and compare. I was going to buy a 1200 until I did that and changed my mine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree that you want the pump running full speed at all times, I have that feature turned off in bios. On my particular MB I don't like the way it controls the fan speed, no option for modifying, It runs too slow to for adequate cooling. That is the reason I use a front mount fan controller.

 

i totally forgot about fan controller. What do u use? What do u recommend me to us?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are lots of cases that pull air from the bottom, mine does. I have a 140 mm fan mounted on the bottom. It does help. I personally prefer the PS being located at the bottom. I will not buy another case with a top mount PS. Mine pulls air from the bottom and exhausts out the back. Take a look at the case manufacture sites and then go to a computer store that has lots of cases and compare. I was going to buy a 1200 until I did that and changed my mine.

 

well I personally think it is better to have a PSU at the top as hot air rises and it is better to have one of the main heat producing uni at the top than the bottom. I am planning to add a small 80cm fan and use it to pull air out of the PSU unit. For now I got to find where is this beeping noise coming from :(

For some odd reason my cases smells a lot like burning plastic :(

 

By any chance this maybe due to the freshness of the rad?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Curlysir. As soon as I think I have my part selection down something changes (like when I saw that some manufactures pull air in from the bottom,this is a excellent idea).I already have one of the "other guy 1200" so I am stuck with making the best of it.

 

I am trying to set-up a logical stratagey as to what I am doing with the machine and what that job demands. Like with the server I have made,there is absolutely no reason that I need this low power CPU (65W) and onboard video in that 1200 case with all those fans. I feel a rack mount case (maybe as small as 2U would be OK). So putting the server hardware in the 1200 was a mistake but I can work with finding a solution.

 

I am making a gaming machine with all the big heat items. So I move all the server hardware out of the 1200 into a rack mount case,this will work. I have the Corsair 850TX P/S,this is overkill for the server but perfect for the gamer but for the gamer I want the modular 850HX because it will be easier to adapt to my outside the case P/S idea. I wish the "main" cable assembley on the 850HX was modular,but I can work with this 'not so perfect situation".

 

Has anyone thought of putting the P/S outside the main case? and use a modular P/S. If I do this I can modify the 1200 for bottom EXHAUST and mount a inside the case water cooler for just the GPU and go to high performabce CPU air cooling and the Corsair ram cooling setup.

 

My front 3 fans have rheostats for speed control so I leave these alone. But with all other fans (including the new bottom fans) I would want speed control,so this means some type of control unit and the correct fans.

 

So what do you think of outside the case P/S (with quick disconnects). Additional bottom cooling (will require spacing case off floor and a air exhaust grill) and mounting a GPU radiator in the place a P/S would be. I would have to make the bottom fans so they suck air out of the case (through the GPU radiator).

 

I am doing all this to get the features in this 1200 case that are not present from the manufacture. And it will be fun to do (thats the best part).

 

I am glad I am not one of the people stressing over a RMA and all pissed off at some manufacture (but I know I easily could be).

 

Thanks in advance for your consideration of my project.

 

In days past I would be putting fuel injection set-ups on carbureted engines or some other type of extreme auto modification but those days are past.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Curlysir. As soon as I think I have my part selection down something changes (like when I saw that some manufactures pull air in from the bottom,this is a excellent idea).I already have one of the "other guy 1200" so I am stuck with making the best of it.

 

I am trying to set-up a logical stratagey as to what I am doing with the machine and what that job demands. Like with the server I have made,there is absolutely no reason that I need this low power CPU (65W) and onboard video in that 1200 case with all those fans. I feel a rack mount case (maybe as small as 2U would be OK). So putting the server hardware in the 1200 was a mistake but I can work with finding a solution.

 

I am making a gaming machine with all the big heat items. So I move all the server hardware out of the 1200 into a rack mount case,this will work. I have the Corsair 850TX P/S,this is overkill for the server but perfect for the gamer but for the gamer I want the modular 850HX because it will be easier to adapt to my outside the case P/S idea. I wish the "main" cable assembley on the 850HX was modular,but I can work with this 'not so perfect situation".

 

Has anyone thought of putting the P/S outside the main case? and use a modular P/S. If I do this I can modify the 1200 for bottom EXHAUST and mount a inside the case water cooler for just the GPU and go to high performabce CPU air cooling and the Corsair ram cooling setup.

 

My front 3 fans have rheostats for speed control so I leave these alone. But with all other fans (including the new bottom fans) I would want speed control,so this means some type of control unit and the correct fans.

 

So what do you think of outside the case P/S (with quick disconnects). Additional bottom cooling (will require spacing case off floor and a air exhaust grill) and mounting a GPU radiator in the place a P/S would be. I would have to make the bottom fans so they suck air out of the case (through the GPU radiator).

 

I am doing all this to get the features in this 1200 case that are not present from the manufacture. And it will be fun to do (thats the best part).

 

I am glad I am not one of the people stressing over a RMA and all pissed off at some manufacture (but I know I easily could be).

 

Thanks in advance for your consideration of my project.

 

In days past I would be putting fuel injection set-ups on carbureted engines or some other type of extreme auto modification but those days are past.

Just a little advice on PSU if you want to go into gaming. Once you get into the world of game you well familiar with the world upgrade forcibly. Not that you want to upgrade but you HAVE to. And the world of PC gaming is as addictive as anything you can think of. And once you get into gaming, you will be thinking of

i)RAID formation

ii)Tri sli-Quad sli

iii)Water cooling

vi)Overclocking, RAM and CPU,

Bottom line is you WELL be needing MORE power. So I suggest go witl Corsair 1000 or at least 1200 watt PSU just to be save of any up coming upgrade that may need more power. This is out of experince. I have my a 850 Watt PSU, I want to go with a tri sli soon but my PSU can't handel it. I wish I went with a 1200 Watt PSU.

For casing, the wider it is the better. 1200 case is a great gaming case with great air flow, however for few heatsinks it is not so friendly. You really got to be careful. If money is not an issue I advice you to go with any Lian Li Armorsuit PC-P80.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dealeader,so 850 is not enough,you know I kind of expected that. I know about all you mention but how does a RAID formation fit in (I will show my ignorance here) my understanding of RAID was that it was a data backup configuration,that is your data is written to more than one drive and your CPU will be instructed to look in more than one place for data.

 

Now I know not all RAID configurations do the same thing,what configuration is a prefered gaming set-up?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dealeader,so 850 is not enough,you know I kind of expected that. I know about all you mention but how does a RAID formation fit in (I will show my ignorance here) my understanding of RAID was that it was a data backup configuration,that is your data is written to more than one drive and your CPU will be instructed to look in more than one place for data.

 

Now I know not all RAID configurations do the same thing,what configuration is a prefered gaming set-up?

 

RAID aims for two things:

a)either protection, RAID1 and alikes

b)performance:RAID 0 and 5(not sure)

--=-

RAID 0 basically splits the file into the hard dish avaliable, and in doing so well give u a faster way to access them. That is if u have two 7200 rpm HDD, this well act like a 14400 rpm HDD, however in RAID 0 if one disk fails the other disk becomes disfunctional

 

RAID 1 is for protection, it is basically copies the same data on two disk, and if one disk fails the other is avaliable to replace it and u can carry on ur duty.

 

So for gaming raid 0 and for data protection RAID 1 and alikes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

daleader,Thanks, I do like links to articles like Wikipedia (PC Stats and Tom's hardware are very good also) but it really feels good to converse and not just get a link.

 

Is it when you are running a sim from a drive (my favorite is Flight simulator FX) new data is constantly being required and there is no way this can be stopped by having gigs and gigs of RAM? Is this accesing the HD called page filing? What I am getting at is it correct that page filing happens not only to run the OS but also to run the application?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

daleader,Thanks, I do like links to articles like Wikipedia (PC Stats and Tom's hardware are very good also) but it really feels good to converse and not just get a link.

 

Is it when you are running a sim from a drive (my favorite is Flight simulator FX) new data is constantly being required and there is no way this can be stopped by having gigs and gigs of RAM? Is this accesing the HD called page filing? What I am getting at is it correct that page filing happens not only to run the OS but also to run the application?

 

yes but if ur RAM is adequte it shouldnt matter. Some application that you install automatically run render themself ready on RAM, sort of like stand by. I am not really sure how does Flight simulator works, but yes any graphic require RAM, CPU and GPU. Some games are more RAM demanding than others. I really cant answer you for that.

I also enjoy talking more :) I hope I was helpful

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...