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DFI LanPart nF4 Ultra-D boot problem


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I can get into the bios but trying to change a bios setting results in the board hanging at the last 3 of the 4 motherboard LEDs and the first two parallel memory LEDs light up green and remain lit with no other progress for a few minutes then the board will not boot unless powered off.

I am sure the memory is ok.

I did manage to boot the PC ok when I got it from second hand purchase and ran the bios memtest for a few hours with no errors, and got Windows XP loaded but after a while, and no gaming only Windows XP Home Edition running lightly the PC powers off.

 

I see here...http://www.asktheramguy.com/v3/showthread.php?t=68956..someone seems to have overcome a similar problem.

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Such a situation as yours can entail trouble-shooting with a test bed analysis and components to do the test bed. You can try a hard reset of the BIOS CMOS system and if the issue remains, then clearly it needs a more professional (test bed) approach.

 

Perform a hard reset to clear any BIOS stack corruption issues.

  1. Shut the system down
  2. Remove the power cord
  3. Remove the CMOS Battery
  4. Set the CMOS_CLR Jumper to On
  5. Press the power button for 10 seconds
  6. Let sit for 10 minutes
  7. Set the CMOS_CLR Jumper to Off
  8. Insert the CMOS Battery
  9. Insert the Power Cord
  10. Restart the system
  11. Enter the BIOS
  12. Load Default Settings
  13. Save Default Settings and Exit
  14. Restart the System and enter the BIOS

 

I see here...http://www.asktheramguy.com/v3/showthread.php?t=68956..someone seems to have overcome a similar problem.
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:): I followed the 14 steps and rebooted but the pc remains at the 3 lit LEDs, detecting memory.

I have one memory module in the Dimm1 slot, the 1st of 4 dimm slots. This is one of 2 identical modules I used when I installed Windows XP Home Edition on this computer.

 

I did find the Corsair .pdf file for the cmx512-3200c2pro memory and it indicates the settings should be 3-3-3-6. I noticed when I saw some settings in the bios I think I may have seen 3-3-3-7 and no 6 anywhere. After reading the DFI boards may be picky about memory I considered the timings to be a possible cause...that's where the link in my first post sprang from.

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Download Memtest86+ V2.11 from--->

and extract the ISO image. Burn the ISO image to an CD-ROM disk.

Download CPU-z from
.

Genie BIOS Settings:

LDT/FSB Frequency Ration - Auto
CPU/FSB Frequency Ratio - Auto
PCI eXpress Frequency - 100Mhz

CPU VID StartUp Value - 1.50
CPU VID Control - 1.48
CPU VID Special Control - Auto 
LDT Voltage Control - 1.20v
Chip Set Voltage Control - 1.60v
DRAM Voltage Control - 2.8v

DRAM Configuration Settings:

DRAM Frequency Set - 200 
Command Per Clock (CPC) - 2 (Enable)
CAS Latency Control (Tcl) - 3
RAS# to CAS# delay (Trcd) - 3 Bus Clocks
Min RAS# active time (Tras) - 07 Bus Clocks
Row precharge time (Trp) - 03 Bus Clocks
Row Cycle time (Trc) - 07 Bus Clocks
Row refresh cyc time (Trfc) - 16 Bus Clocks
Row to Row delay (Trrd) - 03 Bus Clocks
Write recovery time (Twr) - 02 Bus Clocks
Write to Read delay (Twtr) - 02 Bus Clocks
Read to Write delay (Trwt) - 03 Bus Clocks
Refresh Period (Tref) - Auto
Write CAS Latency (Twcl) - 1
DRAM Bank Interleave - Enabled

DQS Skew Control - Auto
DQS Skew Value - 0
DRAM Drive Strength - Auto
DRAM Data Drive Strength - Normal
Max Async Latency - 8ns
Read Preamble Time - 5.5ns
IdleCycle Limit - 256 Cycles
Dynamic Counter - Enable
R/W Queue Bypass - 16 x
Bypass Max - 8 x
32 Byte Granularity - Disable(4 Bursts)

Run Memtest for two full passes. When assured of stable DRAM, then enter Windows and Run CPU-z and post screenshots of CPU-z's CPU, Memory and SPD tabs.

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I did something funny...seeing as the system was still hanging and there was no changes, I swapped around the molex connectors on the motherboard and the system booted and rebooted into Bios with the Default settings enabled and saved.

I am now downloading the utilities...the memtest file is invalid or corrupt...downloaded folder is empty.

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You may have power supply issues. The power supply can be the case of powerdowns.

 

I did something funny...seeing as the system was still hanging and there was no changes, I swapped around the molex connectors on the motherboard and the system booted and rebooted into Bios with the Default settings enabled and saved.

I am now downloading the utilities...the memtest file is invalid or corrupt...downloaded folder is empty.

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:): ..set the bios settings then reboot into memtest then run CPU-Z.

I am thrilled already and I have not got to run the tests yet...

 

Not all the settings are possible as the code indicates;

 

:)::)::):

 

The code reads, CPU VID Control - 1.48

System Bios allows, 1.475V , 1.500V ... I left this setting at 1.475V

 

The code reads, DRAM Data Drive Strength - Normal

System Bios allows, Auto, Levels 3, 2 and 1. I left this setting at Auto

 

The code reads, DRAM Data Drive Strength - Normal

System Bios allows, DRAM Data Drive Strength Auto. I left this setting at Auto

 

The code reads, Bypass Max - 8 x

System Bios allows, Bypass Max 07 X , I left setting at 7 x

 

Saving to CMOS and rebooting for Memtest...

 

...system is hanging. I left the memtest cd in the drive...hard reset again...

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Those are fine.

 

Not all the settings are possible as the code indicates;

 

The code reads, CPU VID Control - 1.48

System Bios allows, 1.475V , 1.500V ... I left this setting at 1.475V

 

The code reads, DRAM Data Drive Strength - Normal

System Bios allows, Auto, Levels 3, 2 and 1. I left this setting at Auto

 

The code reads, DRAM Data Drive Strength - Normal

System Bios allows, DRAM Data Drive Strength Auto. I left this setting at Auto

 

The code reads, Bypass Max - 8 x

System Bios allows, Bypass Max 07 X , I left setting at 7 x

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hard resetting...and listening to a talk about the creation of the earth...it is actually an informed talk. Did you know people are prooving the Great Flood thet bought about the Ark that Noah built...which is found by the way...upon Mount Ararat in Turkey...excuse me, this is a computing forum...yes I know that but this is very exciting...I have not let this go since I first found out about it 3 months ago. It is fact and awesome...oops, sorry lol...

 

I will post after another hard reset. By the way, I have a USB keyboard and a PS2 mouse connected to the PC. Maybe this is causing a problem.

Should I set the PCI to the PCI-E setting and the USB keyboard setting when I change the settings in the bios?

 

Hi, no change after another hard reset and after making the changes to the settings in the Bios. I don't want to give up on this system, I will keep on trying hard resets and changing the settings.

Thanks for the beaut help...

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...happened with another DFI Lan Party SLI nF4 board that I sold. The guy who bought it got it working ok, he said, he reset the memory...just thought this may be a point to note.

The PSU seems ok. The Bios says it has plenty of Amps coming through.

I may check it out in another system but for now I think it is ok going by the other chaps experience and looking at the bios. I had tried what he said when I had the motherboard I sold him.

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"Seems" OK is not a logical way to determine an issue via isolation. Remove the power supply. Insert a known good power suppply and test for a repeat of the previous issues. You sound like someone who is working on systems integration. If so, you need to follow trouble-shooting logically and "Seems" via software interpolation is NOT the way to determine the point of issue.

 

The PSU seems ok. The Bios says it has plenty of Amps coming through.

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:): Thankyou for the code and your recommendations.

 

What I have noticed...

 

The computer is booting ok after each Bios Cmos hard reset. After the power to the motherboard stops an immediate attempt to power on by either the onboard button or front case button result in the motherboard LEDs shining for a moment then stopping and a next attempt to power results in no power.

 

Windows loaded and I worked in Windows for about 10 minutes with 6 or more applications open and using the internet and then the power died.

 

I noticed the bios reads the cmos battery as 3.3V which seems a bit odd for an older 3V battery...maybe this is a clue to a problem?

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:): Thankyou for the code and your recommendations.

 

Actually, it is more than a recommendation. I am saying that unless you test the power supply and either verify that the issue repeats on a known good PSU or verify that it does not repeat, I am unable to take you further in testing. The CMOS battery would have nothing to do with a system dying under heavy workload. I would, at your point and information given, test the power supply. Just because it seems to be giving decent amperage does not mean that the loadline is working correctly.

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...multimeter? If this is possible I can do some internet research for how. I just remembered I have a downloaded article here already about how to test a power supply. I just have not looked at it yet....looking now.

I did read somewhere it is usually ok to claim you are buying a power supply and if it does not wrk with your motherboard you can return it within 7 days.

This is what is suggested to test a power supply...and I am not sure I can quite follow # 6. point about "the Molex in between the yellow and black wire should display at least 12 volts." ...this does not make sense to me and I am wondering is there a better way to test a power supply with a multimeter.

 

To be able to test your computer’s power supply, you can follow the instructions below:

 

1. Turn off your power switch and plug it out from the power supply.

2. Remove the cable from the CPU and start unscrewing the power supply section in order to remove the whole power supply (square metal box) from the CPU.

3. Once done, locate for the main ATX connector and find the green wire

4. Also locate for the black wire near the green wire and with the use of a paper clip, connect and safely bond the two together with a piece of isolating tape.

5. Put back all the power supply and switch the system on again and ensure that your system ventilation is working.

6. To check whether the connection is correct, the Molex in between the yellow and black wire should display at least 12 volts.

 

...my finger is hot enough already from clicking the mouse buttons...

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...on the internet. Using multimeter probes in the top of the P1 connector.

 

There is 5.03V on the purple +5V line...ok

 

I try to test the yellow wired connections for +12V and get 0.04V on 2...hmm...not ok

 

I think I am doing this properly with the red multimeter probe on the yellow and the black probe on a black so I will see what I can do about getting a good power supply.

 

I would not have got off my *** if you had not helped...thankyou

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Too early to thank me yet. If you find the issue was your power supply, then you can :D: :p:

 

I personally test with the wires to the 24pin power supply.

 

Red = +5v

Yellow = +12v

Orange = +3.3v

Black = Ground

 

Under a full load of course.

 

I would not have got off my *** if you had not helped...thankyou
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...the earth wire was screwed to the power board instead of,I think, to the inside of the power supply case.

I noticed earlier, and it did seem :eek: at the time...I had the opened case on a moveable table so I can look down into the case while I work on it while sitting on a chair. When I booted the pc up the case was on its side on the low table...well...I had my hand gripping the metal case frame because the table is on wheels and I needed to steady the table. On that occasion the PC booted ok and I got into the operating system the longest I have ever got into Windows since the first XP clean install.

So maybe there is something about the earthing. Maybe the power supply is already damaged. I do not understand well...except maybe...green...and that I am still alive... :):

I will leave the PC overnight, hard resetting and try again tomorrow.

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You are going to need to isolate all the parts and test with different parts. Hard drives tested, memory tested in a different machine, not one of the same boards but an entirely different machine.

 

It's not going to be an easy find and this could very likely be issues that relate to motherboard VRMs, Capacitors, Memory Controller on the CPU, etc.

 

However, I would test the memory in single sticks with Memtest86+ Version 2.11. In this way you can isolate the memory. I don't think you will find memory reacting in such a way that shuts the system down as you describe though.

 

As I said, it is not going to be an easy find. I personally stay away from building machines from old parts. There's too much time necessary and often it can become a diminishing return.

 

The amount of time you have already spent (hours) is worth far more than that old hardware is.

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:): I have found they are still popular and are quick. I have seen these motherboards sell for NZ$100 here and I still find this interesting.

I will have to wait for other parts to come along then I will test....with help at hand I can do this sort of thing for the first time...great thanks

This time after the hard reset then rebooting got the same results as before.

The single memory module LEDs lit the first LED and hung there.

It has hung like that before but with the 1st and 2nd LED lit, if I am remembering correctly now. Before this point the memory behaves like it is getting tested through the bootup with all LEDs flashing then the usual hang....just thought I better tell all and will do the testing later and come back but for now I am confident all the other hardware ok because I have used it all in many pcs to now. The Corsair memory did pass twice in the Bios Memtest when I got Windows XP installed on this PC.

Still I am happy to run Memtest and CPU-Z when the time comes but I can still test all the other hardware :):

 

EDITED: nearly forgot...after the last hardreset I checked the CPU thermal grease and saw the heatsink was not sitting flat on the cpu. It is sitting about 2/3 on with maybe a third or quarter of un thermal greased heatsink base area...no wonder I found it to be hot during earlier attempts to bootup the pc. Checking now...it is the same...Here is a photo....the end without the thermal grease is the end with the screwdriver end groove.

 

EDITED: Now, after another reboot, no hardreset, I switched off the power left the plug in and moved the memory, from one single module to 2 modules into the 2 Orange slots and the PC read, Bios Update success and has booted into Windows.

If it behaves like it did earlier it will power off. But I think I want to see if it will keep a bios change...I doubt if it has kept any changes in the bios going by my observations to now. If I try to reboot it will probably just hang like it has before from a Windows restart.

568856046_Picture100.jpg.af4382ad89ff9e21fba46ed39797377f.jpg

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I guess I had nothing to lose trying something before the long haul...so...

....after the pc booted into Windows I used msconfig and rebooted to SafeMode and went into the bios and noticed the changes to PCI-E and USB keyboard have updated to those settings, so that is something.

I tried to reset all the memory settings then rebooted, again into Safe Mode and the PC is hung...now what did I do to get to keep those changes in the bios settings...dang...what did I do....?

I think I left the PC hang like I have left it now...but then what....lol....waiting.... :confused: :): :): .... :evil:

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I have been using computers 4 years almost 12 hours each day pulling apart breaking and learning, repairing LCD monitors keeping busy buying and selling.

After seeing others had overcome similar problems with motherboards of the same DFI model I thought to have a go. Worst case scenario for me is "get another one and have a go with that"...covring my expenses is my ambition for the present...hopefully to earn some money in the future.

My first thoughts about the problems with these motherboards that others have had is the memory settings which seem to have to be reset.

 

After the last attempt to get this motherboard going the bios updated to USB Keyboard Support and PCI-E card slot 1st. Then I rebooted hoping to change the memory settings to code. But the PC hung and then trying to follow what I did to have those settings save in the bios and reboot to save the memory settings the PC hung

 

After the last reboot the memory seemed to load ok going by the 4 motherboard LEDs. Only 2 LEDs lit but then 3 LEDs lit then cycled back and forth between 2 LEDs lit to 3 LEDs lit then back and forth and the CPU fan would rev and slow then rev and slow while that was happening until I powered off.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a few statistics, from Smart Speed

CPU 2.100V

NB 1.5V : 1.8V

DRAM 3.20V

CPU SPeed 2210 MHz

 

I have one of the memory modules installed described in earlier posts, in fact no hardware but the PSU is changed. Now I have 20 pin PSU installed and the 5V and the 12V motherboard power connectors off.

 

I am about to run the memtest recommended earlier and CPUZ. Before I do run Memtest should I install the second memory module? What is the best way to install the second module...hi, never mind that, I installed the second module ok and PC has rebooted into Memtest...fun begins at home.

I will post the results from CPUZ.

 

ps...this is the best I have managed to do with this board.

 

EDITED: in Memtest86 v2.11 ... CAS: 3-3-3-8/DDR-1 (128 bits) ... I just thought I could show off a little in anticipation of good results...

When memtest passes, I am confident...I should adjust the settings to the memory module code given in the earlier post?

Where should I go with this board from here regarding stability?

 

EDITED: it is quite hot in the case.

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CPUZ screenshots...

 

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/640/smartspeed.jpghttp://img8.imageshack.us/img8/3387/cpuz1.jpg

 

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/1272/cpuz6.jpghttp://img23.imageshack.us/img23/9818/cpuz3.jpg

 

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/6807/cpuz9.jpghttp://img21.imageshack.us/img21/782/cpuz5.jpg

 

...slots #1 and #2 have identical specifications ... and slots #3 and #4 have identical specifications...

 

On the motherboard the memory modules are in the 2 orange slots and those 2 slots are numbered #2 and #4 on the motherboard...

 

latest Speed Smart report

 

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/2208/smartspeed2.png

 

:): :): :):

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