drthomas Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Hi, I have installed the Cool, and am happy with it.. running my apps at full blast, I get max CPU temp of about 54° (running a AMD 4400+ at 2700Mhz).. at this temp,. the fans are quite noisy:-( Also, this is with ambient temps just over 20°.... what will happen when Summer comes.. my attic gets very hot Now, I want to go a step further in order to achive 'silence' and summer cooling, and so want to add another rad (so, setup would be reservoir, pump,rad, cpu block,new rad,chipset block, reservoir As far as I know, Corsair does not sell spare radiators, and in particular, not one as big as I want.... If they do, point me in that direction, and I will buy one.. on the basis that it would be the best match with the rest of the system:-) Failing that, I would like to install one of the black-ice "pro 2" or "extreme 2" radiators.. mounting it at the bottom of my CoolerMaster CMStacker case (which has an open bottom so I can push air down through it through two slow running 120mm fans) Anybody done anything like this? Anybody know which would be the better match (pro or extreme) Regards Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhyde Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Does it have to be a Coolkit Rad? If not; check out the following site; clik on Radiators (94) and go to page 4 & 5 , there are rads very similar to the cool kit. Swiftech for example. " http://www.voyeurmods.com/index.php?action=category&id=2 " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaptCrunch Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 just make sure you get 3/8 OD on the barbs on rad so you continue in the loop, an external res will be a helper too. res>pump>cpu->cool rad>gpu>rad> use the single pass rad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteB Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 Hi 54C at full blast seems a touch on the high side but OK, Im using a 4600+ at full whack im getting 46C. at ambients of 20/22c I fitted the black ice extreme dual rad to replace my original, and have experienced a temp increase, as the original fans arent beefy enough to cool this dual thickness walled rad down. I was recomended i would be better of with the dual pro version. So theres no need to make the same mistake as me, unless you use super powerfull fans??. I have: res-pump-dual rad-cpu block-gpu block-N/B block, and the pump still copes fine. assuming you have the mcp 350 (standard one) However i will be upgrading to a larger pump and 1/2" tubing very soon. PeteB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drthomas Posted November 3, 2005 Author Share Posted November 3, 2005 Thanks for the reply (and also to my previous post where I suggested using copper tubing.... not into led lights, but yup, a copper 'slinky' would look cool:-) Interesting site link you provided... lots to choose form Swiftec do not have single pass.. what is the advantage of this? Is it alright to keep the rad in the case, or will I have to add extra exhaust fans (defeatingthe puropose of going silent) Thoas quads look very impressive.. maybe I should get one of those mounted to the side of the case.. so long as I never have to open that side:-) Regards Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drthomas Posted November 3, 2005 Author Share Posted November 3, 2005 Thanks for all your replies PeteB looks cool at 46C.... are you overclocked? KaptCrunch You suggest I go with a single pass, maybe a black ice pro2 xflow would work? lhyde you point away from the black ice.. any reason? Main reason to go blackice, is I want want of dangerden's a8n chipset blocks to go ontop of the heatpipe of my premium board (saw somewhere hthat it can be mounted without removing the heatpipe)..... If I buy from two seprate companies, I have to pay twice the shipping:-( Again, thanks for input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 drthomas, A single-pass HX will only give less than ideal cooling over a two-pass HX for the same air flow. The reason being, the coolant passes across the HX once in a single pass and twice for a two pass. Going to a two pass HX will help greatly in reducing the temps since the coolant "passes through" the cooing tubes of the HX twice to release all that heat to the air side. Knowing the DDC pump is in the COOL system, a two-pass HX is ideal. :sunglasse Also, a single-pass HX with louvered air-centers (fins) vs a two-pass HX with flat aircenters (fins) will perform nearly equally. So, when looking for a HX, look for a two-pass with louvered air-centers (fins). Another boost for cooling temps in the COOL is to add a 120x120x15 fan frame between the HX and the original fan. This acts like a shroud to move the air flow away from the fan hub's dead-zone. The offset will enhance the air performance side. Stev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drthomas Posted November 3, 2005 Author Share Posted November 3, 2005 Stev, Thanks for the input While I buy that a double pass is more efficient than a single, I wonder about your explanation... I am no expert here, but my logic tells me In a double pass, the coolant first flows through half the radiator, and then back through the second.... in effect it is going twice the distance, but each time, only using half the available surface area In a single pass, it just goes once through the radiator, but uses the full width all at the same time It was KaptCrunch who suggested the single pass... lets see what input he has:-) Regards Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaptCrunch Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 heheh battle of air coefficient or flow.... Stev is correct on time/area where a car rad works, the single i choose of flow rate for in between CPU/GPU extra rad placement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drthomas Posted November 4, 2005 Author Share Posted November 4, 2005 replace the Cool HX with a Swiftech double HX, and then add a double crossflow HX between the CPU and GPU All joking aside.. I have double checked my installation, and it all looks good.... I have done it exactly as the book says, there is no air in the system, I have a good case, with all the case fans enabled, but despite that, when I run overclocked with 2 * sp2004 running, my heat builds up to 30 degrees above ambiant temperature.... and that is just too hot... Also, it doesnt do what I orginally wanted, which was to make a quieter computer. Tonight I added a shroud (actually, it was an old 120mm fan that I disjointed, and added that between the Cool fan and the rad... didnt make much difference I am afraid Oh well, just have to think about it, and then buy whatever I need.... (thats half the fun of it all:-) Many thanks for the advice Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Dave, Are you using the fan as a blower onto the HX core or a sucker pulling the air through the HX core? A blower setup will build up back pressure against the core. Adding the shroud spacer will do little help. As for a sucker system, the only restriction is the base effort through the air-centers. Adding the shroud between the HX and the sucker fan would improve the flow. Don't get too far away from the HX core though. About 1" max is the preferred distance. Now, putting the two fans in the picture gives you the best flow. One pushes and one pulls. The pusher needs to be 1"-1-1/2" away from the core face and runs about 400-800rpm's faster than the puller fan. Here's an idea of what it would look like WITHOUT the shrouds in place. Jon did a good job of adding the second fan. BUT, adding in the shrouds would look like Pinocchio's Nose sticking out the back. http://www.systemcooling.com/images/reviews/LiquidCooling/Corsair_Cool/Image29big.jpg You could remove the fan-box, turn it to face upwards with the fans and HX, and make a cooling tower out of it. I've done at least this step with the HC200unit. Stev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaptCrunch Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Dave what temps are getting non OC'ed, thermal media or not enoungh clamp force. what temps are the rad tanks, case temp (any fans in case?) ambiant temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drthomas Posted November 5, 2005 Author Share Posted November 5, 2005 Thanks for all the input One problem with adding additional fans, is the noise... my goal is the fastest quietest PC that I can get....... quietness is the overriding goal, and I would rather run slower than add noise:-) Have just rebuilt the whole lot...dropped the Cool (pusher) fan and Coolmaster (puller fan) as they were too noisy, and replaced it with just CoolMaster one. This one is rated at 42.9cfm at 16,4Dba running at 1600rpm.... not the best, but only other one I had around I also am violating all the good advice I received:-)... I have the fan inside the case, then comes the radbox, and then the rad..... I cut a 120mm hole in the radbox baseplate so that the air can just flow through it, and sealed up the holes in the side, so it acts as a shroud I have added a 80mm papst fan 8412ngle with a homemade bracket pointing it at the northbridge chipset (actually at the base of the heatpipe as this is the asus a8n sli premium board, and stilll havent bought the chipset wb) Also have added a thermaltake hardcano 13 unit so I can control speed of fans, and measure the temps fan1 is the case fan to the radbox fan2 is the chipset fan fan3 is a blower at the top of the case All fans running on the hardcano at auto, which lowers the revs. sensor1 is attached the the cpu wb sensor 2 is attached to the chipset heatpipe sensor 3 is suspended in the area of where the aircooler would normally be (measure case temp) sensor4 is attached to the rad (by the outlet pipe) running at stock settings (everything auto) running 2 * sp2004 for 1 hour asus probe records cpu temp at 44, and mb temp at 30 sensor 1 is 32.7 sensor 2 is 47.5 (thats why i want a chipset cooler:-) sensor 3 is 24.7 (these cmstackers are great cases) sensor 4 is 32.7 All is very quiet.. I can barely hear my harddisks (WD76 raptor, samsung 160gb sata, and 2 samsung 2005gb in raid 0.... all four are encased in silentmax hd silencers, and temps range from 29C (Raptor) to 34C (samsungs) there is a slight bit of a wine coming from fan3, and I intend to replace it with a 120mm (but have to mod the case:-( Now, as can be seen, the cool is doing its job at normal speeds.... after finishing this note, will OC back to 2700Mhz, and then see what the temps are Will post again when I have it done Regards Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drthomas Posted November 5, 2005 Author Share Posted November 5, 2005 OK, OC'ed to 2700Mhz (fsb = 257, multiplier= 10.5, vcore = 1.5) 1 hour of 2 * sp2004 (small fft's stress cpu) asus probe shows cpu = 56C, MB = 30 sensor 1 = 38C sensor 2 = 53C sensor 3 = 26C sensor 4 = 35.7C So, with one fan, the HX is just not doing its job.. the water coming out is about the same temp as that going in:-(.... atually, I already noticed this when I did the first report without OC. Am going to go and buy a pair pf papst 4412F/2GLL fans. and see if that makes any difference.... they rate a bit more cfm, and are only 18Dba By the way, googling on the case fan showed quite a few reviews that claimed the rad was a blackice? Regards Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drthomas Posted November 6, 2005 Author Share Posted November 6, 2005 Sorry, sensor 4 is attached to the INLET pipe (ie from the radiator)........ Strange... sensor 1 is measuring the temp as it leaves the cpu block, while sensor 4 is measuring the temp as it enters the HX (ie near the pipe from the pump).... I would really have expecetd a lot of difference as the CPU should have heated that water???? Very confused now Oh, and by the way, ambient temps are 22C (we are into winter, and the central heating is already on, so the temps are very constant:-) Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drthomas Posted November 6, 2005 Author Share Posted November 6, 2005 (so only using 1 core running at 2700Mhz) The temps are CPU= 40C, MB = 29 Regards Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drthomas Posted November 6, 2005 Author Share Posted November 6, 2005 Sorry for so many posts... but maybe they help someone else OK... ran the PC for an hour (until it reached max heat at 55C, then powered off Loosened the screws holding the WB until the springs were just applying tension Twisted the WB in al directions so as to smear the thermal paste as evenly as possible (I had used about a third of the supplied tube, and spread it as evenly as possible when I first applied) Tightened the springs again (until there was about 1mm (ie business card as advised by KaptCrunch) Been running now for about half an hour, and CPU temp is only 49C .... 6C less than before Still have to replace the fans with the Papst (more flow, lower sound), and then I think I will finish... not bother with second HX.... this should be cool and quiet enough for now Regards Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaptCrunch Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 great to hear you are satisfied ;)) those are good temps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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