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Water Block center hose clamp leaking


RAMbo

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Thank alot Corsair, only 6mths old and my COOL water block starts leaking.

Lucky I was there when the PC suddenly cut out and shut down. Had the side cover off in time before something was killed.

 

The center clamp on the water block is leaking.

After checking out the design, the clamp looks poor qaulity, must have expanded out over time from the heat changes then the water escaped.

The clamps on the water block are non-adjustable, and appears they were swashed on at time of production.

On each side of the clamp you can see a small 1mm area where there is no applied pressure.

 

What do I do here?

Should I swash the two side edges of the clamps so more in hope to block the leak?

Should I cut the hose and goto an automotive shop and buy new clamp?

 

The other water block clamp on the outer corner is not leaking (yet), so make me wonder when this could happen.

Swash both clamps edges more, or buy some steel automotive clamps?

 

 

My X800 XT PE had water all over it, the rage theater chip solder connectors/legs have gone a white like color. I dried the card out, lucky its still works, it stable and for how long, who knows.

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HI

 

Sorry to hear about your waterblock.

 

So far mine has been ok, but im a little worried now.

 

I should have my new swiftech storm waterblock coming through the post soon.

 

I would have thought that a factory clamped waterblock as the standard Corsair one, would have been more reliable than others.

 

On my new Storm block(when it arrives), you have to affix the suitable barb, then use jubille clips, so maybe this is not reliable also?

 

Maybe like me you should scrap the original waterblock and go for a higher quality one.

It is possible to buy tooling and clamps to re clamp your old waterblock, but it works out chaper and easier to upgrade.????

 

If you fit watercooling i guess you have to expect things like this can happen.

 

Im using non conductive liquid in my system, but unfortunateley ive added dye which is not non conductive (will clean out the system soon and make sure i am only using non conductive liqiuid.)

 

Unfortunateley i did blow up my Radeon X850xt Pe, but im up an running again now.

 

distileed water is supposed to be 99% non conductive, which i think is nonsense as its either non conductive or not and a percentage reading becomes irrelevant.

 

Really i should leave my setup alone now its working, but i just cant seem to do that.

 

PeteB

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distileed water is supposed to be 99% non conductive, which i think is nonsense as its either non conductive or not and a percentage reading becomes irrelevant.

 

This is incorrect.

 

PURE water is practically non-conductive, but distilled water is not pure water, especially if bought in a grociery store. To get pure water, it must be de-ionized and usually run through a reverse osmosis filter among other things as some of the ions and other 'junk' will remain even through the distillation process. Absolutely pure water is very hard to come by, very expensive and practically impossible to work with outside of a lab (or it'll become non-ultra pure water due to contamination).

 

As for a percentage, this is probably a relationship between being highly ionized and having practically no electrical resistance and being completely pure and having ~18 megohm resistance. You see, there is a gradient of electrical resistivity as more and more ions are dissolved into a sample of pure water. The resistivity decreases accordingly.

 

Thus you can have a sliding scale.

 

FWIW, I hope this information is useful.

 

PLUR

CK

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Please contact our customer service at 888-222-4346 and we will be happy to replace it.

 

Thats great but I live in New Zealand :(

Last time I sent 2 sticks of XMS 3500C2 some ram to Corsair my postal service charged me $100.

 

I have tried using some pliers to edges of the center water block hose clamp, it slowed the leak but did not stop it.

Now im questioning:

Is the hose split and no amount of pressure will fix it.

Has the water block pipe has developed a crack or hole?

 

The cost, postage, and downtime will be to high.

I going to have to at least try and replace the clamps first before I RMA it.

 

Does Corsair deal with this store below directly? (online store where I brought the 478 COOL kit from)

http://www.ascent.co.nz/HardwareCategory.aspx?catname=Cooling

 

Scroll down the link and you will see the Corsair section.

Thanks.

 

 

btw. lol at this part in the product detail on the kit page "The tubing comes factory-clamped to the cooling block and stress tested to ensure leak-free performance." :laughing:

But I guess no one has any idea for how long.

Have to say I choose a kit rather than make my own of piece of mind of never having a leak, I thought Corsair was the best and thats why I went with them.

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I'd still take them up on their offer for a free replacement. Call or Email and see if they'll send a new one before receiving the leaky one. Cross in the mail type of transaction. If you change the clamps yourself and still have the problem, they may not exchange it.

Would a silicone sealer or epoxy close the leak?

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I'd still take them up on their offer for a free replacement. Call or Email and see if they'll send a new one before receiving the leaky one. Cross in the mail type of transaction. If you change the clamps yourself and still have the problem, they may not exchange it.

Would a silicone sealer or epoxy close the leak?

 

I wish I could, and that would be easy if I lived in the USA, cheap, fast and easy. Would be worth it.

Not so easy when you live in New Zealand and this particular situation is not such a viable option. It would cost more than its worth.

 

Brought 2 automotive hose clamps for $4.

I very carefully cut the clamps off the water block.

Made sure the inlet/outlet were covered so no metal fillings would get in.

Block was wrapped in plastic food wrap to protect base and finish.

Did it all without even a scratch to the block.

 

My findings:

No problem with the metal pipes of the water block.

No problem with the plastic tubing, no cracks or splits.

 

Problem:

A very small channel is created inside the tubing from on the crimped clamps, this area has no down pressure and in fact pulls the tubing away from the water block metal pipe and into the area of the clamp which has no pyshical contact with the tubing.

 

Suggestion to Corsair:

- Use a different type of clamp to improve product design. May have been fine to begin with, but over time water has made its way out because of the design of the clamps

- Design the water block with inlet and outlet pipes that have a lip on the ends, otherwise the clamp is all that is holding the water back.

 

Machine up and running again now for a few hours, no leaks.

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