help! Have Issue With ICUE i150 Capellix with 13900k

[Samyar]

hi guys.
im using This corsair cooler with 13900k and i get 42C temp in ideal and up to 50-52C or higher  While playing game
im not sure this temp is good.
i did change my Thermal paste yesterday i have thermal grizzly kryonaut before and i use this thermal paste again
i check the cooler too and installation
both tube have vibration when i touch with hand 

my ICUE app setting on balance but i change it to extreme but still high temp 

anyone can help or anything to to fix it? 

The pic is my ideal temp

Have Issue With ICUE i150 Capellix with 13900k

[c-attack]

This isn't all that abnormal in Summer in a warm case in a warm room.  You need to compare that coolant temp to the "motherboard temp" or anything else to help give you a relative internal case temp.  Chances are it's going to be 38-40C in the case and thus that 42C water temp is as low as you can go.  Assuming the radiator is top exhaust?

 

The other thing you'll want to do is get off the preset fan curves.  You're above the average, but you can't cool the water below the case internal temp at any speed, so that just becomes noise.  120mm fans have an effective minimum of 600-700 rpm on a radiator.  Anything much lower than that just doesn't really move the air through, but this is fine for idle.  When playing, find an acceptable fan speed in the 1000-1300 rpm range.  That is significantly more effective than 700 but still reasonable for noise.  There really isn't much reason to go faster than that unless you are running a 300W+ processor at that power level continuously.  For now, you can use the fixed speed option in the custom curve settings to compare various speed while gaming to see if there is any meaningful temp change.  If you are running a large watt GPU, you may want separate fan curves for the front/rear fans and the radiator fans.  Running the top fans faster draws more hot air through the radiator increasing the coolant temp.  Let those relax a bit and run the front + rear a little harder to try and force more GPU waste heat out the back.  

[Samyar]

7 minutes ago, c-attack said:

This isn't all that abnormal in Summer in a warm case in a warm room.  You need to compare that coolant temp to the "motherboard temp" or anything else to help give you a relative internal case temp.  Chances are it's going to be 38-40C in the case and thus that 42C water temp is as low as you can go.  Assuming the radiator is top exhaust?

 

The other thing you'll want to do is get off the preset fan curves.  You're above the average, but you can't cool the water below the case internal temp at any speed, so that just becomes noise.  120mm fans have an effective minimum of 600-700 rpm on a radiator.  Anything much lower than that just doesn't really move the air through, but this is fine for idle.  When playing, find an acceptable fan speed in the 1000-1300 rpm range.  That is significantly more effective than 700 but still reasonable for noise.  There really isn't much reason to go faster than that unless you are running a 300W+ processor at that power level continuously.  For now, you can use the fixed speed option in the custom curve settings to compare various speed while gaming to see if there is any meaningful temp change.  If you are running a large watt GPU, you may want separate fan curves for the front/rear fans and the radiator fans.  Running the top fans faster draws more hot air through the radiator increasing the coolant temp.  Let those relax a bit and run the front + rear a little harder to try and force more GPU waste heat out the back.  

Thanks for quick answering.
i set my cpu power PL1 and PL2 253W
and my gpu is Rx 6900 Xt

and my case has 3 fan in front they intake air and 1 fan inback is exhaust
my cooler fan is working exhaust too
What I understood from your words this temp is normal and you said to change my fan to 700 Rpm fix when im doing something like browsing and....
and set Various while gaming things?

btw i dont think i can set my front and rear fan speed they are default

i using this case: ASUS TUF GT501

 

 

 

 

[c-attack]

If the front/rear fans are connected to the MB, then they will be governed by the BIOS of MB fan control software.  Most of the time this defaults to CPU temp and that's not very helpful.  The CPU does not warm up the case. If your MB allows it, GPU temp might work slightly better as it's activity is what heats up the box and requires more fan speed.

 

Don't worry about exact speeds.  Cooling is not overly sensitive to small RPM changes and there is no meaningful difference between 600 and 700 or 1200 and 1300 rpm.  However, you do want to stop the AIO fans from running away up to 2400 while the the rest of the case fans breeze along.  All that does is suck all the heat in the case out through the radiator and that heats the water inside.  This is a really common issue and most users have the AIO in the top.  That makes long gaming sessions the highest coolant temp and during a warm Summer you will break 40C all the time.  The fans try to max out at that point, but there isn't anything special that happens at 41 or 42C.  It's just +1C more to the CPU.  The device limit is 60C.  You should not be near that.  My general advice is anytime you break 50C, you need to figure out why.  There can be genuine, uncontrollable reasons for it, but you need to know what they are.  

 

There are other things to check on for general environmental control.  If you have the dust filter on the top of the case with a top exhaust radiator, get it off.  It's not doing anything but trapping heat against the radiator.  Dust will not enter the PC through an exhaust fan port.  The other big one this time of year is PC general location.  If you keep it under a desk or on the desk but in a corner, you will heat up that space around the box and start to recycle the previously heated air.  You likely can't move the PC to a better spot, but you can use a standard house fan to blow air at the corner or PC.  That will move the waste heat coming out of the case up and away while allowing air from other parts of the room to be used as intake.  Also helps keep the heat off of you. 

[Samyar]

1 hour ago, c-attack said:

If the front/rear fans are connected to the MB, then they will be governed by the BIOS of MB fan control software.  Most of the time this defaults to CPU temp and that's not very helpful.  The CPU does not warm up the case. If your MB allows it, GPU temp might work slightly better as it's activity is what heats up the box and requires more fan speed.

 

Don't worry about exact speeds.  Cooling is not overly sensitive to small RPM changes and there is no meaningful difference between 600 and 700 or 1200 and 1300 rpm.  However, you do want to stop the AIO fans from running away up to 2400 while the the rest of the case fans breeze along.  All that does is suck all the heat in the case out through the radiator and that heats the water inside.  This is a really common issue and most users have the AIO in the top.  That makes long gaming sessions the highest coolant temp and during a warm Summer you will break 40C all the time.  The fans try to max out at that point, but there isn't anything special that happens at 41 or 42C.  It's just +1C more to the CPU.  The device limit is 60C.  You should not be near that.  My general advice is anytime you break 50C, you need to figure out why.  There can be genuine, uncontrollable reasons for it, but you need to know what they are.  

 

There are other things to check on for general environmental control.  If you have the dust filter on the top of the case with a top exhaust radiator, get it off.  It's not doing anything but trapping heat against the radiator.  Dust will not enter the PC through an exhaust fan port.  The other big one this time of year is PC general location.  If you keep it under a desk or on the desk but in a corner, you will heat up that space around the box and start to recycle the previously heated air.  You likely can't move the PC to a better spot, but you can use a standard house fan to blow air at the corner or PC.  That will move the waste heat coming out of the case up and away while allowing air from other parts of the room to be used as intake.  Also helps keep the heat off of you. 

Thanks for the help and tips

my MB fan controller have 2 option 1 Cpu temp 1 Cpu package for fan speed otherwise i think i could set speed manually in bios, and my motherboard temp is 34C my ideal colant temp now 39 40C
last night i was checking in game with max fan speed and pump in Cyberpunk 2077 in ultra game setting. after i playing my coolant temp going up to like 57C and avrage staying on 54 55C. Should this colant temperature be worried? casue you said break 50C is not good?
and 1 more thing should i set my pump speed all time on extreme?

[c-attack]

Quiet vs Extreme pump speed is a small difference in speed and usually zero difference in temperature. AIO units have a short travel distance and not much vertical travel. It only shows a small difference with high watt CPUs during sustained maximum load. The improvement is less time in the cpu cooling channels per water unit when heat transfer is at maximum. Doesn’t matter for normal use, including gaming. 
 

Mid 50s coolant temp isn’t normal. That represents a +15C change, which is really high outside of stuffing a 4090 into a small form factor case. Check the motherboard, RAM, and internal m.2 temps when gaming. I can use those to make a decent estimate of internal gaming temp. 
 

You also can work this from the other end. Before any long gaming session, load up a mild stress test like the CPU-Z stress test in the Bench tab of that program. It’s linear and not overly taxing, so it makes a good test when there are potential issues. You only need to run it for 5-10 min. Lock the fans to 1300 rpm or so before the test. That’s about 220-230W and you’d expect the coolant to go up about 6C and level off. If that happens, it confirms the AIO is functioning correctly and we need to look for other contributing factors to the high. coolant temp. If it shoots up 10-15C in 5 min, then something wrong with the AIO. 

Edited August 27 by c-attack

[Samyar]

On 8/23/2024 at 2:37 AM, c-attack said:

Quiet vs Extreme pump speed is a small difference in speed and usually zero difference in temperature. AIO units have a short travel distance and not much vertical travel. It only shows a small difference with high watt CPUs during sustained maximum load. The improvement is less time in the cpu cooling channels per water unit when heat transfer is at maximum. Doesn’t matter for normal use, including gaming. 
 

Mid 50s coolant temp isn’t normal. That represents a +15C change, which is really high outside of staffing a 4090 into a small form factor case. Check the motherboard, RAM, and internal m.2 temps when gaming. I can use those to make a decent estimate of internal gaming temp. 
 

You also can work this from the other end. Before any long gaming session, load up a mild stress test like the CPU-Z stress test in the Bench tab of that program. It’s linear and not overly taxing, so it makes a good test when there are potential issues. You only need to run it for 5-10 min. Lock the fans to 1300 rpm or so before the test. That’s about 220-230W and you’d expect the coolant to go up about 6C and level off. If that happens, it confirms the AIO is functioning correctly and we need to look for other contributing factors to the high. coolant temp. If it shoots up 10-15C in 5 min, then something wrong with the AIO. 

im testing it in other game the temp when pc onideal is 40c and when i playing the game going like 44C but  this game use like 10% Cpu.in another game i test. ideal temp 40C and after playing its going over 55C but this game use like 40% Cpu

is this cooler good for 13900k? cause i saw people saying the 13900k flying on temp and you cant cool it

[c-attack]

The coolant temp between 40-44C is very common in Summer and there is no way to prevent the case from heating up a little when gaming.  It's the 55C one that bothers me.  Try running a CPU only test to take GPU heat out of the equation.  Run the CPU-Z stress test for 5 min.  If you have a genuine AIO problem, it will go up 10-15C almost instantly.  It should only go up 5-6C in 5 min with maximum CPU watts.  Once you're sure the AIO is doing it's job, then you can start trying to decipher why the one game is out of control, but GPU watts will be the place to look.  

[NkJ]

Out of curiosity, can you upload an image how is cooler installed with visible tubes ?

Couple of things that will cause those temps:

1. Liquid flow is blocked somehow or slowed down. 
2. Radiator fins are blocked or clogged with dust
3. CPU runs over your wattage limit.

Edited August 25 by NkJ

[Samyar]

7 hours ago, c-attack said:

The coolant temp between 40-44C is very common in Summer and there is no way to prevent the case from heating up a little when gaming.  It's the 55C one that bothers me.  Try running a CPU only test to take GPU heat out of the equation.  Run the CPU-Z stress test for 5 min.  If you have a genuine AIO problem, it will go up 10-15C almost instantly.  It should only go up 5-6C in 5 min with maximum CPU watts.  Once you're sure the AIO is doing it's job, then you can start trying to decipher why the one game is out of control, but GPU watts will be the place to look.  

i did this test you told me. 
test it with cinbench R23 before i start the test my Temp 39-40C and when i start it after 5 min the coolant temp goes to 45-46C
and my cpu works on 253W 

the picture for this Test

[Samyar]

7 hours ago, NkJ said:

Out of curiosity, can you upload an image how is cooler installed with visible tubes ?

Couple of things that will cause those temps:

1. Liquid flow is blocked somehow or slowed down. 
2. Radiator fins are blocked or clogged with dust
3. CPU runs over your wattage limit.

i Cleaned my radiator fans like 1 week ago 
and my Cpu work on 253W PL1 & PL2

[NkJ]

48 minutes ago, Samyar said:

i Cleaned my radiator fans like 1 week ago 
and my Cpu work on 253W PL1 & PL2

Thanks. Try to play Cyberpunk without case front panel, and see how much temp will change. And if you did not already, remove top magnetic filter from the case. 

[c-attack]

I don't see any issue with the AIO directly.  40C is a higher than normal baseline, so 95C is expected for something hard like R23.  Coolant temp change of +6C right in line with expectations. So whatever is going on is likely internal temperature change.  Cyberpunk is a hard GPU load for any unit.  Take a look at the GPU watts in HWinfo, HWMon, MSI Afterburner, etc. to help you compare games. That heat has to go somewhere.  You would prefer it go out the back rather than through the top radiator.  Try experimenting with high but acceptable front/rear fan speeds and set the top radiator fans to something moderate - like 1000 rpm.  See if that alters the balance.  If the case air is 50C, then sucking it through the radiator will make the coolant 50C in short order regardless of the CPU power level.  

[Samyar]

8 hours ago, NkJ said:

Thanks. Try to play Cyberpunk without case front panel, and see how much temp will change. And if you did not already, remove top magnetic filter from the case. 

i test it nothing change 😞

[Samyar]

1 hour ago, c-attack said:

I don't see any issue with the AIO directly.  40C is a higher than normal baseline, so 95C is expected for something hard like R23.  Coolant temp change of +6C right in line with expectations. So whatever is going on is likely internal temperature change.  Cyberpunk is a hard GPU load for any unit.  Take a look at the GPU watts in HWinfo, HWMon, MSI Afterburner, etc. to help you compare games. That heat has to go somewhere.  You would prefer it go out the back rather than through the top radiator.  Try experimenting with high but acceptable front/rear fan speeds and set the top radiator fans to something moderate - like 1000 rpm.  See if that alters the balance.  If the case air is 50C, then sucking it through the radiator will make the coolant 50C in short order regardless of the CPU power level.  

i did what you saying set my fan on 1000 Rpm and my Pump on balance 
i change my GPU power its on 273W
when i start the game my Coolant temp 40C and after 5-10 min my Coolant goes to 51C
look the picture its all thing after 5-10 min playing

[c-attack]

+10C coolant when gaming is pretty common.  It's the +15C that is unusual.  You typically only see that with high watt GPUs in small cases or if there is something else about the environment that traps heat.  If you have a top dust filter on the case, take it off.  It doesn't serve any purpose when running the top as exhaust and creates an additional barrier to airflow.  If the case is under a desk or tucked in a corner, you will heat up that local space over time and the case with it.  However, 5-10 min is a bit too fast for that to be the factor.  

 

The other unexpected factor is your CPU wattage and that is directly related to frame rate.  You're pulling down 200W from the CPU in that shot and that is from the 194 fps.  You can cut the CPU watts down by using a frame limiter.  I am not sure how much play-feel difference there will be between 200 fps vs 160 vs 120.  But since you are actually creating 200W, you'll need to let the radiator fans work.  This is not just GPU waste and there is genuine CPU load.  

[Samyar]

25 minutes ago, c-attack said:

+10C coolant when gaming is pretty common.  It's the +15C that is unusual.  You typically only see that with high watt GPUs in small cases or if there is something else about the environment that traps heat.  If you have a top dust filter on the case, take it off.  It doesn't serve any purpose when running the top as exhaust and creates an additional barrier to airflow.  If the case is under a desk or tucked in a corner, you will heat up that local space over time and the case with it.  However, 5-10 min is a bit too fast for that to be the factor.  

 

The other unexpected factor is your CPU wattage and that is directly related to frame rate.  You're pulling down 200W from the CPU in that shot and that is from the 194 fps.  You can cut the CPU watts down by using a frame limiter.  I am not sure how much play-feel difference there will be between 200 fps vs 160 vs 120.  But since you are actually creating 200W, you'll need to let the radiator fans work.  This is not just GPU waste and there is genuine CPU load.  

my case is in open area and already i removed dust filter on my top case
if i limit my fps ofc cpu temp will drop but i have 240hz monitor and so i like to uncap my fps
the thing is look at my cpu temp
90C on 42% usage? and last night when i test my cpu its 95C on 100% usage
the thing is i have a some friend they have 14700k and 13700k they said me 
for them cpu temp around 70C in like all game

so if my AIO work good and everything fine 

90C fine for playing? or it will damage my cpu?

i already notice you have 13900k too. you see this temp on you PC while playing too?

[c-attack]

When you run a stress test and the load is at maximum, the CPU and VRM will deliberately reduce the voltage for a number of reasons.  This is referred to as Vdroop.  When you run Cinebench R23 you'll see the voltage in the 1.15-1.20v range even though the CPU is running at maximum power.  When gaming with light to moderate loads you will see the full Vcore limit up in the 1.35-1.38 range.  That can produce temperatures nearly as high, despite not being as many watts for power.  Check on your peak Vcore for gaming.  This is the issue in play for Raptor Lake CPUs.  It doesn't take much to bump it up an extra 0.10v and that's usually when you see 90s.  

 

I failed to account for the extra watts you use when running at 200 fps in a game like Cyberpunk.  I might use 125W at 120 Hz or up to 150W when I was running it with a heavy overclock.  200W is enough to move the liquid temp up 5-6C on it's own, plus the normal case temp increase. So +10-13C is not really out of the question since there is a genuine CPU load as well.  You'll need to use some actual fan speed (~1000-1300 rpm) to keep the coolant temp was getting to high and my normal advice for X3D owners to slow their fans down and stop sucking hot into the radiator doesn't apply here.  The fans have some work to do.  

[Samyar]

3 hours ago, c-attack said:

When you run a stress test and the load is at maximum, the CPU and VRM will deliberately reduce the voltage for a number of reasons.  This is referred to as Vdroop.  When you run Cinebench R23 you'll see the voltage in the 1.15-1.20v range even though the CPU is running at maximum power.  When gaming with light to moderate loads you will see the full Vcore limit up in the 1.35-1.38 range.  That can produce temperatures nearly as high, despite not being as many watts for power.  Check on your peak Vcore for gaming.  This is the issue in play for Raptor Lake CPUs.  It doesn't take much to bump it up an extra 0.10v and that's usually when you see 90s.  

 

I failed to account for the extra watts you use when running at 200 fps in a game like Cyberpunk.  I might use 125W at 120 Hz or up to 150W when I was running it with a heavy overclock.  200W is enough to move the liquid temp up 5-6C on it's own, plus the normal case temp increase. So +10-13C is not really out of the question since there is a genuine CPU load as well.  You'll need to use some actual fan speed (~1000-1300 rpm) to keep the coolant temp was getting to high and my normal advice for X3D owners to slow their fans down and stop sucking hot into the radiator doesn't apply here.  The fans have some work to do.  

my Core VIDs work on 1.4 when i playing game

So the general summary of these conversation

my cpu and AIO cooling working normal and nothing to be worried about?

[c-attack]

With the coolant at 50C+, you are going to be high on gaming temps.  No doubt about that.  Fortunately that should drop another 10C soon in most places.  The AIO appears to working properly. 

 

VID is what the processor requests, but not the actual Vcore applied.  They should be the same when at default settings, but then that is the issue with these Raptor Lake CPUs.  Look at the Vcore in the motherboard section in those monitoring programs.  

[Samyar]

31 minutes ago, c-attack said:

With the coolant at 50C+, you are going to be high on gaming temps.  No doubt about that.  Fortunately that should drop another 10C soon in most places.  The AIO appears to working properly. 

 

VID is what the processor requests, but not the actual Vcore applied.  They should be the same when at default settings, but then that is the issue with these Raptor Lake CPUs.  Look at the Vcore in the motherboard section in those monitoring programs.  

what do you mean that should drop another 10C soon in most places??

and i check the vcore on motherboard sectior its working on 1.380 - 1.400 

[c-attack]

Not Summer where you are?  Room temp and case/water temp are linked.  Most of the temperature concerns pop up in Summer and then go away in Winter.  

[Samyar]

8 hours ago, c-attack said:

Not Summer where you are?  Room temp and case/water temp are linked.  Most of the temperature concerns pop up in Summer and then go away in Winter.  

ow you mean the summer. yes thats true 😄
1 more thing. you think if i change my cpu to 13700k or 14700k? my temp will be better? or it has not that much difference? 

its really annoying to see my temp going that much high 

[c-attack]

I don't think you'll see a real temp difference.  Typically what you get with a 13xxx->14xxx upgrade is another +200MHz on the clocks for the same power/temperature.  If you really want to cut power and temps, supposedly the new Intel 2xx series will be a significant reduction, but that will require a new motherboard too.  

[Samyar]

4 hours ago, c-attack said:

I don't think you'll see a real temp difference.  Typically what you get with a 13xxx->14xxx upgrade is another +200MHz on the clocks for the same power/temperature.  If you really want to cut power and temps, supposedly the new Intel 2xx series will be a significant reduction, but that will require a new motherboard too.  

So my only way is to accept the current situation and use this cpu with this temps 😄