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In desperate need of an old Intel CPU cooler


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Hi,

 

My CPU cooler broke down so now I'm stuck with no PC for almost a week plus I had to buy a laptop just so I can type this here.

It's a socket 2011-3 for an Intel Core i7-6800K CPU (which was released in 2016).  I've done some research and apparently it HAS to be a 2011-3 and not a regular 2011 or a 2011-3 Square ILM.

The main Corsair website only mentions 3 such coolers but all of them use liquid cooling which I don't even dare to think about.

 

So is there any way or anywhere I can buy this specific cooler?  I'm pretty much broke now so a new CPU/motherboard/memory/OS-combo will be out of the question for many years to come.

Maybe even from another brand, as long as it's that specific one.

I hope any of you can help me out.

Thank you in advance.

 

-thebookies

 

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Well, Corsair specializes in water cooling. But no problem, I would just get a Corsair H100x with a 240 radiator. 

 

or what concerns do you have about water cooling?

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1 hour ago, muvo said:

Well, Corsair specializes in water cooling. But no problem, I would just get a Corsair H100x with a 240 radiator. 

 

or what concerns do you have about water cooling?

The H100x has 2x120mm fans, I can only fit one 120mm in.

I can't really afford water cooling and I also don't need it.

 

Would this one work?

https://www.newegg.com/p/13C-00X2-00001

Although it may be too big (127mmx104mmx147mm) and I wouldn't know how to attach it to the CPU part without any cables.

It DOES state socket 2011-3 but if there are 2011-3 socket with different sizes then I could be looking for months ...

 

 

 

 

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It should work according to the description. The major issue with these larger cpu air boxes is RAM clearance. Tall RAM modules creates a collision. The other issue is installation. Most of these will require you pull the MB out of the case in order to mount it. That or you need very tiny, dexterous fingers to be able to reach under and bolt it down. 

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Your fan should work.
But with an air cooler you should check whether you have to remove the mainboard (depending on the case) in order to carry out the installation. Your cooler here, for example, already protrudes over the first ram slot, so only for RAM in the 2-4 occupancy.

 

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Some more info (sorry for answering late, this is taking a toll on both my physical and mental health):

- the CPU cooler (up top) itself seems ok, it's the rear fan which has the damaged cable and which is connected to the CPU box with 2 of these cables.

- can I leave the CPU cooler alone and do I need to replace the 120mm rear fan?  I tried to remove it yesterday but I think that indeed this would involve removing the mainboard which I cannot do.  It's got maybe 15-20 cables going everywhere. 

Well, just maybe I could pull  it off if I use a camcorder, record everything and take lots of photo's but even then it'll be like a fresh-out-of-university doctor having to do open-heart surgery as their first operation.  Which is scary.

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6 minutes ago, thebookies said:

it's the rear fan which has the damaged cable and which is connected to the CPU box with 2 of these cables.

 

6 minutes ago, thebookies said:

can I leave the CPU cooler alone and do I need to replace the 120mm rear fan?

If it's just the fan, you only need to replace the fan.  Most CPU coolers use a fan with a PWM motor (4 pin cable) as many CPU/OPT fan headers on the motherboard are set up that way for control.  Replacing the fan is as simple as unbolting it, unplugging it from CPU fan header, and bolting on the new one.  It's the unscrewing on a air cooler than can be hard.  This sounds like a dual fan model.  The front one is often easy to unscrew.  The back one might need a very short screwdriver or MB removal.  

 

We likely can offer more detailed suggestions if we know the CPU cooler model.  Don't worry about it if it's not Corsair.  

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On 6/18/2024 at 12:30 PM, c-attack said:

 

If it's just the fan, you only need to replace the fan.  Most CPU coolers use a fan with a PWM motor (4 pin cable) as many CPU/OPT fan headers on the motherboard are set up that way for control.  Replacing the fan is as simple as unbolting it, unplugging it from CPU fan header, and bolting on the new one.  It's the unscrewing on a air cooler than can be hard.  This sounds like a dual fan model.  The front one is often easy to unscrew.  The back one might need a very short screwdriver or MB removal.  

 

We likely can offer more detailed suggestions if we know the CPU cooler model.  Don't worry about it if it's not Corsair.  

Hi, back again (life is hard).

Why do you want any CPU cooler info when I told you it's the rear fan that is damaged and that the CPU cooler itself looks good? 

The rear fan consists of 3 parts, there are 4 long screws on either side of the case (outside and inside).  I don't think I can buy just the rightmost part (the one with the attached cables going to the CPU box) so I think I'll have to get all 3 parts out.

The wires are connected in a way I cannot see but I don't think I can detach them on the fan part.  I'll have to cut the zip tie to get the complete fan removed and then just maybe I won't have to unscrew the mainboard.

Or, to be certain which fan/cooler is at fault, I could turn the pc back on and have a good listen (and look) as to which fan seems to want to take off like a jet plane.  I could record with my camcorder too.

Setup tells me one of them goes to 2400+rpm but I can't say which Setup fan number corresponds to which fan inside the case.

 

Sorry for long answer wait, rage episodes not fun.

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, thebookies said:

Why do you want any CPU cooler info when I told you it's the rear fan that is damaged and that the CPU cooler itself looks good? 

Because not all fans fit all CPU air boxes.  Some of them use odd wire latches or other ways to attach to the air radiator.  Knowing the model lets us look it up and see, something you can probably do as well.  

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So the black cables could be different for different fans?

The parts that are attached to the CPU box don't seem to come off easily, maybe not even at all.

Here is all the info I got from the fan:

Corsair CWCH80

00ADOE12119402

CE ROH5

12V DC0.35A Brushless Fan

CF12S25SH12A

 

I also noticed the mainboard's "PWR_LED" staying red, even when I only turn on the PSU, plus the "Q_CODE" mentions message "A9" which means "Start Of Setup" (not really informative ...).

The manual is at

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1172800/Asus-X99-A-Ii.html?page=3#manual

 

And as an aside I found a huge bug in Windows 11 Home: if you attach a Bitlocked internal hdd to a laptop and unlock it (the Home version doesn't even have Bitlocker as a feature, yet  it does unlock the drive) ... Windows doesn't boot any more and you have to re-install it.  If you try to do a repair you'll get a "Pc cannot be repaired with startup repair error".

This took about 30'-45' so that was great fun, but since I absolutely need to backup some more files from the hdd to an external one (which I'm doing again right now), I'll be looking at yet another Win re-install.

A dual boot with Linux will be another thing to do later on, Win 11 is simply enormously frustrating and pure bloatware.

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Sorry for double-posting (and its length) but I discovered something major.

When looking for a fan like the one I have I noticed that almost only the double fans have these 2 cables that I have and they all mentioned water cooling.

So the cables only seem to be used for water cooling and have no purpose in my case; I don't think they're made to also have cold air running through them.

My fan with the cables was (I think) only put in there in case I wanted to use water cooling sometime in the future.

Just take a look at this link:

single fan

And it says "Liquid CPU Cooler" so that confirms my belief that the cables are only there for water to run through and are useless when they're not being used with this in mind.

And here is the exact same fan I have:

Corsair CWCH80 Hydro Series H80 High Performance 120mm Radiator All-In-One Liquid CPU Cooler

So just maybe if I were to detach the cables the mainboard would detect this and make the top cooler spin faster.

Some other thoughts:

- what is the use of these cables if no water runs through them?

- does the CPU need the "block" part (the one to which the cables are attached)?  Is that the "box" of a boxed cpu? 

- maybe I only need to replace the CPU cooler with a (much thinner) non-water cooled one and the big middle block of the fan is only needed for water cooling?  Plus get me a new box for the cpu?

- or maybe the box of the boxed cpu has broken down and the "rust" has nothing to do with it?

It's the CPU cooler/rear fan that speeds up real fast though, I had a good listen yesterday.

 

Opinions are much appreciated!  Things seem to slowly go forward now.

 

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I think I am now completely turned around as to what is currently installed.  Do you have an old 2013 H80 AIO in there?  If so, there are special rules and that thing was different than most every AIO that came after.  I thought you had a somewhat typical air radiator with one fan on each side of it?

 

Either way, a fan typically has one cable.  Within that cable is it's power, ground, and control wires.  The only significant thing here is the number of wires in the cable.  If you look at the end of the connector there will either be 3 little holes (DC motor-voltage regulated) or 4 little holes (PWM motor).  This does matter for finding a fan that matches the other's behavior.  DC voltage controlled fan have smaller range of operation and it would be hard to match it a PWM fan so they run in sync.  Newer RGB fans will have two cables, one for power/control and the other for lighting.  

 

The fan you linked as "single fan" is a ML120 fan from a few years back.  It's PWM and makes a good air or water radiator fan, but it can be hard to find now that it's out of production.  It also had a max speed of around 2400 rpm, so that may indeed be what is on there.  

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3 hours ago, c-attack said:

I think I am now completely turned around as to what is currently installed.  Do you have an old 2013 H80 AIO in there?  If so, there are special rules and that thing was different than most every AIO that came after.  I thought you had a somewhat typical air radiator with one fan on each side of it?

 

Either way, a fan typically has one cable.  Within that cable is it's power, ground, and control wires.  The only significant thing here is the number of wires in the cable.  If you look at the end of the connector there will either be 3 little holes (DC motor-voltage regulated) or 4 little holes (PWM motor).  This does matter for finding a fan that matches the other's behavior.  DC voltage controlled fan have smaller range of operation and it would be hard to match it a PWM fan so they run in sync.  Newer RGB fans will have two cables, one for power/control and the other for lighting.  

 

The fan you linked as "single fan" is a ML120 fan from a few years back.  It's PWM and makes a good air or water radiator fan, but it can be hard to find now that it's out of production.  It also had a max speed of around 2400 rpm, so that may indeed be what is on there.  

Does this mean it'll be a female dog to find either the same cooler or another one that is compatible (though I think you just meant "yes" there)?

All 3 connectors (W_PUMP, CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT) only have 3 pins although the manual says there should be 4.  I think the CPU_FAN has 3 wires going in but I'm not sure.  Can't see it properly.

The right side of the cooler has

this

 

I'm bracing myself for impact since I simply cannot buy a new pc before the year 2029 AD (unless a certain family member of mine stops being an a******).

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(I can't edit my above post any more, so here's a new one)

I just thought of something: could it be that the "-3" from "LGA 2011-3 socket" refers to there only being 3 holes  in the 3 connectors I mentioned above and that there are TWO X99-A II mainboards (one with 3 and one with 4 connectors)?

And also that Asus didn't bother creating a new manual for the "-3" version?

I'm going to contact that company about this.

I also looked at some thermal coolers and could it be that they're all 4 connector/PWM-only?

 

And to complicate things even further, amazon also sells "2011(-3) Square ILM" coolers, ILM apparently stands for Independent Loading Mechanism.

Ugh ... :classic_wacko:

 

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OK, that looks like a standard 120mm AIO in the back.  I can see the fan and it is connected to the motherboard fan headers. All you need is pretty much any PWM fan to replace it.  The closest current model is the AF120 Elite (black).  Corsair don't seem to stock their old OEM replacement fans anymore.  However, any 7 blade PWM fan with a decent high speed is going to work here.  It's a radiator so no special mounting other than screw size (6-32).  The same ones that are currently there will work with the new fan.  

 

That said, the unit is looking pretty worn.  Corsair is pretty much all in on RGB these days, so that makes the H60x the only current 120mm radiator AIO model.  You might not be interested in the RGB, but there are other options from different sellers that are going to be like what you have now.  Simple, black, straight connection to motherboard -- no software required.  That seems like it might be the better option for you.  

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You're right, there IS a fourth pin (very hard to see) so PWM does work.

My CWCH80 has these specs:  1300 RPM (Low Noise), 2000 RPM (Balanced), 2500 RPM (High Performance)

The H60x only has a max of 1500rpm but I wanted to ask you something else first:

why is there a liquid cooler in my PC when I've never used it AS a liquid cooler?  There is no liquid or reservoir in it and it just sits there blowing air.

Also, if you use such a cooler but don't use water or any liquid, won't it heat up the CPU?  I have these 2 rear fans with a radiator inbetween but there is NO LIQUID!

*scratches head furiously*

 

I just saw a video on how liquid cooling works and I was like "What?  Huh?!  but I don't even have!...".

And I'll never put any sort of liquid near my PC, so will such a cooler still do its job sufficiently?

 

 

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All CPU coolers are conductive devices.  This means the real CPU cooling is between the CPU lid and the thing you bolt onto it.  That conducts the heat away from the CPU.  Everything else about the cooler deals with getting rid of the heat.

 

A typical little air blower from 20 years ago conducts heat into its very small radiator on top the CPU.  Then the small fan on top blows tries to blow the heat elsewhere.  Larger "tower" air coolers turn the direction of the heat flow.  The heat is conducted from the cold plate up those air pipes into the radiator box.  Then you blow the heat off through the radiator and out the back.  

 

Water cooled system (AIO or custom loop) work on a similar principle but use water instead of air as the transport for the heat.  Liquid flows by on the other side of the cold plate touching the CPU.  There it picks up the heat and brings it to the radiator.  In the radiator the water spreads out over those fin channels and you blow air through the radiator to try and release the heat.  This is really the same as a large air tower, except water has a considerably greater capacity to hold heat compared to air in a pipe.  The water in your AIO is inside, was never meant to be refilled or changed, and that is anH80 2013 (I think).  If you didn't have any water inside, your CPU would overheat in about 60 seconds.  It must still have some.  

 

Unfortunately this does complicate things.  The H80 2013 was unique.  It had DC fans and a controller on the unit.  It will be extremely difficult to find a fan compatible with the H80's own controller.  So for that reason (and I think you maybe already are set up this way), you get a PWM fan that you will connect directly to CPU FAN (or OPT).  Don't connect to the H80.  

 

I will again suggest you might look at an inexpensive 120mm AIO to replace the entire system.  All-In-One units only have a certain number of years because they are no maintenance units.  The old ones did last a long time and we see people show up every year to mention their old H80 is still running 9-10 years on.  However, that's way past expectations and it would be very disappointing for you to spend all this effort on a new fan, get it in, and then the H80 stops working next month.  My recommendation is you look for a new 120mm model. Corsair doesn't seem to make an appropriate one for you right now, but other companies do.  It's not as hard as it seems to install (easier than an air tower for sure) and it's the same amount of work to install a brand new unit versus changing out the one fan.  

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3 hours ago, c-attack said:

  My recommendation is you look for a new 120mm model.

Would that be a liquid cooler?

I did some McGyver type sleuthing and a thermal would  just about rightly fit into my case.  I can show you some pics of my findings if you want.

The main thing for me  is my mental state slowly going to manure with me thinking of planning things no human should ever plan on doing ...

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I'm looking at this cooler, which has great dimensions (87 x 121 x 155mm) so it won't even touch any rightmost memory slot.

And I'll either leave in the rear fan or replace it since it's 11 years old.

I don't know if I can salvage the rear fan part, I'll have to take it out to have a look.

I did some some research and it's supposed to be great for i7 CPU's.  I'm glad I've got an 8-year old CPU  now. :classic_smile:

And even if it weren't cooling sufficiently enough, I could always replace the be quiet! Pure Wings 2 fan with a better model.

Or even also replace the rear fan with a "be quiet!2" one.

If no one of you sees any problems, this will be the one I'm buying.

 

 

PS: sorry for the depri remark yesterday, my mood can go very dark at times (I had to have both my 2 dogs put to sleep in the space of 9 months July last year so even without this PC problem it's already been the worst year of my life).

 

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So that works and I owned one early on for my X99 board as well.  Just be aware this is the type of cooler that can be a little tricky to install.  You have to get a tiny wrench underneath the air box to tighten it down.  Sometimes this requires removing the motherboard.  

 

Another option is this.  It's a 120mm AIO like you have now.  It will bolt onto to the back and bolt down onto the 2011 socket.  This can be installed in minutes.  In terms of cooling, I don't think you'll see much difference between the air box and at the 120mm radiator size. I might even have a preference for air cooling.  However, no doubt about it the 120mm AIO is an easier install.

 

Edited by c-attack
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19 hours ago, c-attack said:

So that works and I owned one early on for my X99 board as well.  Just be aware this is the type of cooler that can be a little tricky to install.  You have to get a tiny wrench underneath the air box to tighten it down.  Sometimes this requires removing the motherboard.  

 

Another option is this.  It's a 120mm AIO like you have now.  It will bolt onto to the back and bolt down onto the 2011 socket.  This can be installed in minutes.  In terms of cooling, I don't think you'll see much difference between the air box and at the 120mm radiator size. I might even have a preference for air cooling.  However, no doubt about it the 120mm AIO is an easier install.

 

Ok thanks I ordered the one I mentioned but now yours as well (chose the wrong one first, they got two 120mm's so quickly had to fix that NOSTRESSTHOUGH :classic_ninja::classic_tongue:).

I can send the first one back no problemo with Amazon.de if I don't open the package.  I'm a regular customer so ...

And I also picked up a be quiet! SILENT WINGS 4 with my 1st order which is now not needed any longer but I don't care, if the fan of yours is too slow somehow I can always stick in the Silent Wings 4 or stick it somewhere else, my pc is infested with fans (I suspect they're breeding).

A guy on a forum said the Silent Wings is way better than the Pure Wings so for sure Pure Wings 4 > Silent Wings 3 from your fan,  hence the extra purchase.

You know if any paste is auto-included?

Your fan beats open mainboard surgery I guess ...  I know.  Thanks mucho again, getting a megabyte hyper about the whole thing wanna scream REAL LOUD now.

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I've got the Pure Loop cooler but my pc has 2 rear fans (with the radiator inbetween them); will the PL one fan be enough?  Maybe the builders added a 2nd fan because of stability issues?

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The two fans on the old AIO are to help push more air through the radiator.  You new CPU cooler has two fans as well.  Depending on how much space is left between the 2nd air cooler fan and the rear slot, you may not need any fans there.  If there is plenty of space, one fan is all you need to help exhaust hot case internal air out.  

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I'm looking at it right now and there is just the one Pure Wings 2 fan.

Pure Loop

 

Also, how long does one have to wait between putting the paste on the cpu and attaching the cooler?

 

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Posted (edited)

Oh, I thought you had decided on the air cooler.  So short answer is it doesn't matter.  At medium or better speed, there isn't a lot more advantage to two fans vs one on thin radiators.   The airflow between them is not additive, so you don't get twice as much air.  The pressure is additive, so this helps get air through through the radiator better at low speeds.  You can probably find another Pure Wings fan if you want one, but don't expect it to have a significant effect on CPU temps, except in situations where you have a high, sustained CPU load combined with low to medium fan speed.  

Edited by c-attack
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