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Jim L

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I have had the Hydrocool 200 for about 2 years now and have had several processors under it. It has really taken care of my overheating problem, my computer runs 24/7 and has a marginal airflow. My ouestion is why do I have to keep adding water to the unit? It will drop enough to cause the "FILL" alarm to be activated on the average of 1 1/2 months consistantly. I have checked and there are NO leaks anywhere in the system. I replaced the O ring on the fill plug and it is lubricated but still I loose fluid.

Also I realize now that I need to drain and flush the system. What kind of contamination can get into the water? it looks kinda oily and flakey floating in the tank. (Yes I do use distilled water.)

Can the fact that it runs 24/7 be a problem? I could understand expansion / contraction causing a loss of fluid, but this is not the case.

Also about a year ago, I lost a processor due to a thermal meltdown. The processor exceded 212* as recorded by the Intel onboard monitor before it damaged the CPU & board.

The temperature runs between 85* up to 95*F.

Thank you for your input. Jim.

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jim

 

use white vinagar 1part to 1part distilled water for the flushing, for the loss of fluid can be 2 things, air locks or rad is sweatting from pourious tubes with the fan vapourizing the fluid so you don't see it. can try flat black automotive paint to seal pores

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I have had the Hydrocool 200 for about 2 years now ... My ouestion is why do I have to keep adding water to the unit? ... It will drop enough to cause the "FILL" alarm to be activated

 

 

Jim L,

 

Your not alone on this issue. It's the typical nature of a water-cooling setup. No system can be 100% permeation proof, unless you use hard metal tubing.

 

Permeation is why automotive cooling systems need to be topped off over time. They usually have an overflow bottle/tank to monitor with min and max fill lines. Likewise, permeation is why you need to top off the fluid in the HC200 every now and then.

 

The fill alarm is an easy reminder to attend and fill the reservoir. This is a plus over the existing COOL or other water-cooling products out there without the alarm reminder. :biggrin:

 

The permeation can happen where the tubing makes connections, plastic walls of the pump, plastic in the flow indicator, o-ring seals and the tubing itself. So, basically, coolant can diffuse through microscopic pores in the component materials. :idea:

 

If you fill often over a course of time, doing a system flush and refill will bring the HC200 back to a proper coolant mixture for corrosion protection. Usually, a flush is preferred once a year. :sigh!:

 

The HC200 is really the full Cadillac in the water cooling realm. It literally has all the bells and whistles! :sunglasse

 

Hope this gives you an understanding. The HC200 was engineered and designed to really work with the user rather than being a dumb cooling system.

 

Enjoy!

 

Stev

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Jim L,

 

Your not alone on this issue. It's the typical nature of a water-cooling setup. No system can be 100% permeation proof, unless you use hard metal tubing.

 

Permeation is why automotive cooling systems need to be topped off over time. They usually have an overflow bottle/tank to monitor with min and max fill lines. Likewise, permeation is why you need to top off the fluid in the HC200 every now and then.

 

The fill alarm is an easy reminder to attend and fill the reservoir. This is a plus over the existing COOL or other water-cooling products out there without the alarm reminder. :biggrin:

 

The permeation can happen where the tubing makes connections, plastic walls of the pump, plastic in the flow indicator, o-ring seals and the tubing itself. So, basically, coolant can diffuse through microscopic pores in the component materials. :idea:

 

If you fill often over a course of time, doing a system flush and refill will bring the HC200 back to a proper coolant mixture for corrosion protection. Usually, a flush is preferred once a year. :sigh!:

 

The HC200 is really the full Cadillac in the water cooling realm. It literally has all the bells and whistles! :sunglasse

 

Hope this gives you an understanding. The HC200 was engineered and designed to really work with the user rather than being a dumb cooling system.

 

Enjoy!

 

Stev

HC200 Hydrocool

Ok, I went to the auto parts and about all I could find was the Prestone LO-TOX in the propolyne glycol so I got a gallon. There were cheaper in the store brand but it was actually a winterizing agent for R/V's and I hope the quality is a bit higher in the Prestone brand.

I am going to flush it out and do a general service on it. Now here are my questions I have to ask before I do it:

1, Aside from draining and flushing the system with distilled water, what should I use to clean and to neutralize the system? How much, by that I mean how many ounces to use.

2, What is the total capacity of the cooling systen on ounces or cc's?.

3, When I restart the system, how many ounces / cc's. of (PG) coolant do I start with before I add the distilled water?

4, The lamp on the flow indicator burned out, what is the replacement, or can I use a LED.

5, I am assuming that there is virtually NO pressure in the system or very little due to heat build-up, am I correct?

6, Is there any reason that I could not add a surge or expansion tank to the system to increase the volume? What is the thread size and pitch on the fill plug?

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There were cheaper in the store brand but it was actually a winterizing agent for R/V's and I hope the quality is a bit higher in the Prestone brand.

I am going to flush it out and do a general service on it. Now here are my questions I have to ask before I do it:

1, Aside from draining and flushing the system with distilled water, what should I use to clean and to neutralize the system? How much, by that I mean how many ounces to use.

2, What is the total capacity of the cooling systen on ounces or cc's?.

3, When I restart the system, how many ounces / cc's. of (PG) coolant do I start with before I add the distilled water?

4, The lamp on the flow indicator burned out, what is the replacement, or can I use a LED.

5, I am assuming that there is virtually NO pressure in the system or very little due to heat build-up, am I correct?

6, Is there any reason that I could not add a surge or expansion tank to the system to increase the volume? What is the thread size and pitch on the fill plug?

 

Don't use the R/V type for its PG with acid base mixture use the prestone Low Tox for its pure PG

1)white vinagar 1part 1partdistilled water

2)about 2qts cap

3)pre-mix for HCX200 is 33% 1part PG 2 part distilled water

4) going to be a bear remove old bulb its a mini peanut bulb for get what# the bulb is in auto store

for use LED need 3 in series for it a 12v supplyied for lighting.

5)correct

6) read the forms its in there some where, add a tank, use 3/8 ID hose over top HCX 1/4 hose on the quick connectors.

7) most thing is burp the system well before useing (remove the air locks out)

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Don't use the R/V type for its PG with acid base mixture use the prestone Low Tox for its pure PG

1)white vinagar 1part 1partdistilled water

2)about 2qts cap

3)pre-mix for HCX200 is 33% 1part PG 2 part distilled water

4) going to be a bear remove old bulb its a mini peanut bulb for get what# the bulb is in auto store

for use LED need 3 in series for it a 12v supplyied for lighting.

5)correct

6) read the forms its in there some where, add a tank, use 3/8 ID hose over top HCX 1/4 hose on the quick connectors.

7) most thing is burp the system well before useing (remove the air locks out)

 

 

Thank you for the info on the coolant type. I got the Prestone Lo-TOX and a gallon of distilled water from the market and I am hoping to service this this weekend.

I pulled out the old light bulb tonight to see what I could do, remembering back when it DID work, I really could not see the wheel very good because of the smoked plastic ( besides for the fact I can't see very well )

:bigeyes:

The old incandesant lamp was not real bright and just lit up the entire case, so what I did is I removed the stock lampholder and cut the wires at the back of the socket. Then I connected them into a molex plug same type as used on the power supply following the same power scheme. Then I installed a small grommet into the hole where the old socket used to live and then into this grommet I installed a WHITE high intensity LED using a LED mounting bushing. I installed a 2 pin socket onto the 2 leads from the LED and soldered a 1/8 watt 1000 ohm resistor to the positive side. I terminated this into the mating molex connector to match the power supply.

I carefully aimed the LED so the beam is a bit off center towards the center of the case to put a spot behind the pinwheel.

I put the entire system back togather and then put it online..

Man this now looks NICE, you can see the wheel spinning from across the room.

I am really happy with the job.Jim. :D:

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I decided that today was the day I was going to service my Hydro Cool so I shut down the system. I first reversed the coolant lines to see if I could backflush the waterblock and knock loose any trash, I let it run for about 20 minuets and then I removed the lines.

The first thing that I noticed was that the coolant lines into the case had a cruddy looking film on the inside walls of the tubing. This same buildup of ? was also coating the lines of the cooler unit and I am sure the radiator. :eek:

This did not give me a very good feeling. Next I released the clamps in the Q/C fittings and then removed them from the tubing. I took a 60cc medical syrenge and used it to remove all of the old coolant from the water block that seemd to have real fine particles of something suspended in the liquid. I used HOT water and I flushed the lines both directions till it was clear. Now there is still the hazy film on the inside of the tubing so I tried to remove it, first I mixed a solution of vinegar and distilled water and heated it in the microwave, Then I injected it into the lines and let it set awhile. This seemed to loosen whatever it was as it was foaming a bit Then I took about 4 foot piece of 1/4" vinyl coated (aircraft cable) and used it for a tubing cleaner and performed an angioplasty till I got the lines clean again.

Took the H/C unit to the kitchen and drained the coolant out, it too had alot of something floating in the liquid and the tubing was also cloudy. I rinsed out the system with hot water and then used the syrenge connected to the Q/C fittings to flush it going both ways. Then I used the same solution and filled the tank, there was alot of crud here too. I connected a jumper hose about a foot long between the inlet and outlet on the back. I made up a 12 volt 2 amp power supply with a connector to fit the light connector I installed yesterday and plugged it in so now I can run the unit on the bench.

There was alot of foaming going on for the next couple of hours until I felt it was clean but I had a real hard time to clear up the flow indicator. If I had a few extra keystone clamps I would have removed the parts and cleaned them alot better but I will have to do that next time. When I felt it was OK I put it all back togather and installed the coolant and topped it of with distilled water. I installed it onto the computer and connected the lines, I booted the computer and added an additional 240 ml. of water.

Right now it is running at 89* about the usual temps. for this time of the night.

My question for the experts are....

1, What do you think caused the film on the lines the floating debris in the coolant? Could it have been caused from the overheated processor? the intel monitor recorded 232*F before it crashed. I never thought to flush it when I put it on the new processor.

2, Where can I get more keystone clamps or better, the nylon type?

3, What is the MTBF on this pump? and how much do they cost when I need a replacement? ( One thing I did notice, is there is not alot flow GPM? to this pump.)

4, Where do I get the Q/C fittings for the back? can I get larger tubing?

5, Where do I get a flow detector (pinwheel)?

Thanks for all of the help. Jim.

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... I first reversed the coolant lines to see if I could backflush the waterblock and knock loose any trash, I let it run for about 20 minuets and then I removed the lines.

 

Not a bad thing to do. If you had an air hose, it too would purge the mirco-channels.

 

 

... The first thing that I noticed was that the coolant lines into the case had a cruddy looking film on the inside walls of the tubing. This same buildup of ? was also coating the lines of the cooler unit and I am sure the radiator. :eek:

 

That is why we highly recommend flushing the system once per year with DISTILLED (WHITE) VINAGER and distilled water. Distilled vinegar is made from the bacterial oxidation of dilute distilled ethanol as a ‘simpler’ mixture, and its acidity is therefore likely to be due solely to the presence of ethanoic acid. Basically, distilled vinegar is made from grains like corn, rye and barley alcohols.

 

HOWEVER, regular vinager, apple based, contains sugars that can grow organisms in the cooling lines. Also, red wine vinager is NOT to be used for flushing either.

 

 

... I used HOT water and I flushed the lines both directions till it was clear.
:eek: :eek: :eek:

 

Tap water will ruin the HX (rad) and the cold-block. :[pouts:

 

 

Now there is still the hazy film on the inside of the tubing so I tried to remove it, first I mixed a solution of vinegar and distilled water and heated it in the microwave
:eek: :(: :(:

 

OUCH!

 

 

 

1, What do you think caused the film on the lines the floating debris in the coolant? Could it have been caused from the overheated processor? the intel monitor recorded 232*F before it crashed. I never thought to flush it when I put it on the new processor.

 

Over time, the corrosion inhibitors break down. Sludge and organism growth could occur. Also, tap water impurities could give the tubing a haze coating color too. A flushing of the system is needed.

 

2, Where can I get more keystone clamps or better, the nylon type?

 

http://www.usplastics.com

 

3, What is the MTBF on this pump? and how much do they cost when I need a replacement? ( One thing I did notice, is there is not alot flow GPM? to this pump.)

 

Generally, 50,000 running hours. But longer since the pump does not run in an engine harsh enviroment, nor running with 10% casting sand for a durability test.

 

 

4, Where do I get the Q/C fittings for the back? can I get larger tubing?

 

http://www.usplastics.com

 

Also see this thread too!

http://www.houseofhelp.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37691

 

 

5, Where do I get a flow detector (pinwheel)?

search on google for paddle-wheel flow indicators. Do NOT get the floating ball type.

 

 

 

Jim L, I would HIGHLY recommend flushing the HC AGAIN with DISTILLED WHITE VINAGER and distilled water. A 50/50 mixture.

 

First, splice in two shut off valve "T" (tees) to each line to the cold-block connected to the HC. http://www.usplastics.com

 

Second, have a few feet of tubing on the HC to cold-block line for draining into a bucket. http://www.usplastics.com

 

Third, have a few feet on the other line to draw in the flushing mixture (DISTILLED WHITE VINAGER and DISTILLED WATER) to purge the system.

Your local grocery market.

 

Fourth, when flushed, change the flushing bucket with a coolant mixture to refill the HC.

 

Fifth, diconnect the lines to the HC box and flush them to the cold-block if needed.

 

 

Hope this really helps. There is no telling how much damage was done with the HOT tap water. You may need to do a flushing of ten gallons prior to refilling.

 

Stev

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Hope this really helps. There is no telling how much damage was done with the HOT tap water. You may need to do a flushing of ten gallons prior to refilling.

1, I do not understand how I could have done any damage to the system by using HOT water?, It was hot (distilled water) also the 1 gallon bottle reads "Smart&Final brand Distilled White Vinegar 5% acidity" was I supposed to use something else?

2, I have tubing brushes that are used cleaning out the inside tubing and apparatus used in the medical field.

 

 

If you had an air hose, it too would purge the mirco-channels.

3. What is the max PSI I should use? Do you have a link to show what the inside construction of the water block?

 

4, How long do you let the vinegar/water solution circulate and how do you know when the flush job is finished?

 

5, Can I use the cold block on the CPU and replace the radiator in the HC200 with a TE chill water unit. Should be able to get the temps well below ambient. What are the minimum temps a CPU will operate at?

 

http://www.tetech.com/assys/water.shtml

 

Thanks Jim L.

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1, I do not understand how I could have done any damage to the system by using HOT water?, It was hot (distilled water) also the 1 gallon bottle reads "Smart&Final brand Distilled White Vinegar 5% acidity" was I supposed to use something else?

 

2, I have tubing brushes that are used cleaning out the inside tubing and apparatus used in the medical field.

 

3. What is the max PSI I should use? Do you have a link to show what the inside construction of the water block?

 

4, How long do you let the vinegar/water solution circulate and how do you know when the flush job is finished?

 

5, Can I use the cold block on the CPU and replace the radiator in the HC200 with a TE chill water unit. Should be able to get the temps well below ambient. What are the minimum temps a CPU will operate at?

 

http://www.tetech.com/assys/water.shtml

 

Thanks Jim L.

 

 

Jim,

 

It's good to know that you used the proper liquids. Just using the term water or hot water in this realm of OC'ing means tap water. DI or DiW goes with Deionized water or Distilled Water. Good to know that you also used white vinegar.

 

The highest psi to blow out the cold-block & the connecting tubes, ONLY, is 30 psi. Make sure the tubes are disconnected from the HC box.

 

Running the flush cycle will take about 10-12 minutes. If you have the inline "T" (tees), once the unit draws in the white vinegar and distilled water mixture, you can flip the tee's to flush the cold-block too. Let it run a short time to purge the HC cooling loop. Next, place a clean jug of the 33% PG with 66% distilled water on the inlet side tube "T" and open the drain "T" along with quickly opening the PG mixture "T". This will refill the unit except for the cold-block. You will need to manually disconnect the cold-block tubes from the tees and purge out the flush mixture in the cold-block.

 

The flush mixture of 50% Distilled vinegar to 50% distilled water is a basic mix. If your tubing is really discolored badly, try a 75% distilled vinegar and 25% distilled water. Some coffee makers just use distilled vinegar at 100% full strength for cleaning. But the HC can't do 100%, knowing that the Bosch pump needs some lubrication. You could get some noise out of the pump during the flushing. Once the proper coolant mixture is refilled, the pump should work normally.

 

You may run into some trouble with a chiller in-line since condensation would build up on the tubing lines inside of the computer. The SuperThane tubing was not intended to remain condensation free below ambient. Adding another HX (rad) and fan will help drop the temps to ambient and keep the overall cooling loop cool.

 

The TETech Model LC-035 Liquid Cooler of only 35W could come in handy if ... You're cooling more than just the CPU and the total watts of the cooling loop is over 200W that the HC can't handle. This unit could balance the cooling load. I would highly recommend getting the Model TC-1600 Temperature Controller too. This will greatly assist in reaching the ambient degree needed for maintaining the closest balance along with a good calibrated room temperature thermometer.

 

Peace!

 

Stev

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Jim,

 

It's good to know that you used the proper liquids. Just using the term water or hot water in this realm of OC'ing means tap water. DI or DiW goes with Deionized water or Distilled Water. Good to know that you also used white vinegar.

 

The highest psi to blow out the cold-block & the connecting tubes, ONLY, is 30 psi. Make sure the tubes are disconnected from the HC box.

 

Running the flush cycle will take about 10-12 minutes. If you have the inline "T" (tees), once the unit draws in the white vinegar and distilled water mixture, you can flip the tee's to flush the cold-block too. Let it run a short time to purge the HC cooling loop. Next, place a clean jug of the 33% PG with 66% distilled water on the inlet side tube "T" and open the drain "T" along with quickly opening the PG mixture "T". This will refill the unit except for the cold-block. You will need to manually disconnect the cold-block tubes from the tees and purge out the flush mixture in the cold-block.

 

The flush mixture of 50% Distilled vinegar to 50% distilled water is a basic mix. If your tubing is really discolored badly, try a 75% distilled vinegar and 25% distilled water. Some coffee makers just use distilled vinegar at 100% full strength for cleaning. But the HC can't do 100%, knowing that the Bosch pump needs some lubrication. You could get some noise out of the pump during the flushing. Once the proper coolant mixture is refilled, the pump should work normally.

 

You may run into some trouble with a chiller in-line since condensation would build up on the tubing lines inside of the computer. The SuperThane tubing was not intended to remain condensation free below ambient. Adding another HX (rad) and fan will help drop the temps to ambient and keep the overall cooling loop cool.

 

The TETech Model LC-035 Liquid Cooler of only 35W could come in handy if ... You're cooling more than just the CPU and the total watts of the cooling loop is over 200W that the HC can't handle. This unit could balance the cooling load. I would highly recommend getting the Model TC-1600 Temperature Controller too. This will greatly assist in reaching the ambient degree needed for maintaining the closest balance along with a good calibrated room temperature thermometer.

 

Peace!

 

Stev

 

1, If the tubing was insulated would that reduce the risk of condensation inside the hot case if I were to use a chill water system? I am sure someone must make an insulated high grade tubing. How is this problem addressed on a freon based unit?

2, Where can I get the pinout for the power connector on the back of the case so I can make a power supply that will run the unit while it is being serviced?

3, What are the specs on the Bosch pump that is used in this unit as far as flow rate versus head?

4, Question about the 3 way valves, which ones were you refering to?

Just the cheap one I hope. With the large bore valve I could leave it in the system and cap the service leg when not in service mode.

#22259 Buna-N-Seal/End Conn. 1/4 HB 3 Way Ball Valve @$8.83

#22260 Viton® Seal/End Conn. 1/4 HB 3 Way Ball Valve @$9.54

 

http://www.usplastic.com/pdfdatafiles/images/22259p.jpg

 

#17226 3-Way Stopcock With 4mm Bore @$35.99

 

Thanks for the help. Jim

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1, If the tubing was insulated would that reduce the risk of condensation inside the hot case if I were to use a chill water system? I am sure someone must make an insulated high grade tubing. How is this problem addressed on a freon based unit?

 

It may be doable, however, we have our reservations that it isn't 100% insulating without other components being modified.

 

Freon, (R12) is no longer in use. R134a (automotive) and R152a (appliance) replacements work with metal lines and fittings vs. tubing. Also, the system is pressurized.

 

2, Where can I get the pinout for the power connector on the back of the case so I can make a power supply that will run the unit while it is being serviced?

 

That request can go directly to Corsair since they managed all of the electronics in the HC. We only know of a few interfaces for part components.

 

3, What are the specs on the Bosch pump that is used in this unit as far as flow rate versus head?

 

Do a search in the forums here for "Bosch", the pump flow curves and other data can be found.

 

4, Question about the 3 way valves, which ones were you refering to?

Just the cheap one I hope. With the large bore valve I could leave it in the system and cap the service leg when not in service mode.

#22259 Buna-N-Seal/End Conn. 1/4 HB 3 Way Ball Valve @$8.83

#22260 Viton® Seal/End Conn. 1/4 HB 3 Way Ball Valve @$9.54

 

http://www.usplastic.com/pdfdatafiles/images/22259p.jpg

 

#17226 3-Way Stopcock With 4mm Bore @$35.99

 

The stopcock's are a pain to use and I agree, they cost way to much! :bigeyes:

 

Why not this 1/4" which has the fittings?

 

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=15614&product%5Fid=20993

 

Stev

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