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H60 Hydro Suddenly Not Working


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I recently had a PSU failure and after replacing it my CPU overheats within minutes.  In the BIOS I can see it climb to 89 C and then shutdown.   My PC is rather old but it has been working consistently.  I am certain the PSU was bad because it was smoking and actually throwing sparks.  It seems like quite a coincidence that the cooler would fail at the same time so I am asking the forum for thoughts. Did the PSU damage the MB?  Do I need to reseat the cooler with new paste?

Thanks for any help.

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At first glance, it looks like a pump failure from what you describe. have a feel at the water hoses, if there is a big temperature difference, you will most likely have zero flow. (don't try it too much, once the AIO is hot, don't cook your CPU 🙂

Can you see the pump RPM reported when you go to the bios?  ?usually the AIO is connected to the CPU fan header.

If the AIO is old it could be a pump failoure (you'll see 0 RPM reported), or a coldplate blockage from gunk that accumulated with time (then you see pump RPM but still have very little to no flow). The usual symptom is a temperature that steadily climbs until thermal shutdown.

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Thanks for the reply,  The CPU Fan Speed is 1906 RPM.  One pump hose is warm and the other is ambient but I wouldn't say there is a big difference between the two.  So by your estimation it might be a blockage.  Not much I can do about that except replace it right?  This build is 8 years old so I'll probably just build out a new one.  Thanks for your help and if you have any more tips please post them.  At this point I have nothing to lose.

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10 hours ago, cberube33 said:

One pump hose is warm and the other is ambient

If you can feel a difference, that’s a problem. Typical temperature drop on a 120mm radiator is going to <1C per pass through the radiator. You should not be able to tell a difference at all. 
 

It’s possible there is a blockage, but given events more likely the tachometer sensor is scrambled and there is no actual pump action. However, when that’s the case you typically have 30 seconds before a forced shutdown and then you can’t boot again for hours until the liquid trapped in the block cools naturally.  This might be something different. ~2000 rpm is too slow for an H60 unit. Typically it reads more like 4000-4400 rpm in the BIOS. You likely had to do a lot of things after the PSU fail. Go into the bios and make sure the MB header supplying the pump is set to 100%, full speed, etc. or whatever label your bios uses for max speed 12v. If you have a newer H60 (2018) that is SATA powered, this will not be the issue and the pump is locked at the required speed and power straight from the PSU. 

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Thanks c-attack.  I have not done anything to the bios after the PSU failure.  This would account for the seemingly coincidental cooler failure.  I have read that some MBs read ~4000 and some read ~2000.  The MB manual shows a screen of 1962.  Not saying you are wrong of course.  Another clue is that the front case panel fan shows 0 rpm but I never really trusted that anyway.    Now I think it might be a clue.  I have attached my MB manual.  Could you help me find the correct setting?  I only have a couple of minutes before it auto shutdowns.

mb_manual_ga-990fxa-ud3_e.pdf

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If you only have a couple of minutes before it force powers down due to temperature, this is not a "half speed issue".  At half speed it would take probably 20-30 minutes at load to achieve this state.  3 min to shutdown at idle means no effective pump action.  

 

Contact Corsair Support from the link at the bottom of this page.  Warranty on the AIO is 5 years.  If you are now past 5 years, you need to look for a replacement cooling method.  

 

I don't see even a casual reference to fan control in the BIOS manual.  It's possible the 990FXA is old enough to not have onboard fan control.  All the fans run at 12v maximum all the time, so you buy a fan that has a lower maximum speed you can tolerate.  That said, I was on Intel through that period and not Gigabyte either, so someone else may have a more experienced position.  Regardless, I do not thing fan control is the cause and you should proceed as if the pump has had it's final day.  Blockage is still possible and it can be severe enough to restrict the pump speed.  Typically the motherboard will read double the actual pump speed, not the other way around.  

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Thanks a bunch for the insight.  That makes a lot of sense to me.  I still have the stock air cooler that it came with so I think I'll try that.  I hear it isn't very good but maybe it will get it back running.

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