c-attack Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 Air to liquid temperature difference is key part of heat dissipation efficiency. You can blow off a lot more heat passing 20C air through 30C liquid compared to 27C air through 30C liquid. So one of the obstacles to using a triple radiator set-up in a traditional case is your front and side radiators will exhaust into the top radiator. When you blow 30C air into 30C liquid, you don't get a cooling effect at all. If you blow 32C air into 30C liquid, you are now heating the liquid. This makes flow order important for this type of set-up. If you do set-up that way, the ideal path is for the CPU & GPU to go directly to the top radiator. That makes it the highest temperature point. The exhaust air from the front and side radiators further downstream should then be 1-3C cooler so you still get something from the top. If for whatever reason it is not possible or not desirable to route tubes in that fashion, then you may be better off with just two radiators to allow one panel to be an cool intake or higher efficiency exhaust path. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted September 10, 2022 Author Share Posted September 10, 2022 On 9/8/2022 at 8:39 AM, LeDoyen said: you have some of those on sale everywhere : https://www.amazon.fr/SIENOC-Magnétique-Refroidisseur-Ventilateur-Ordinateur/dp/B07YYWV96W/ i use a 120mm for back intake, works as intended 🙂 Oh, good idea, that would feed fresh air in directly under the roof rad. Still going to do in front the front and side too though so that would be 7 fans pulling air in and 3 blowing out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted September 13, 2022 Author Share Posted September 13, 2022 (edited) Ok, slowly making progress. All rads flushed and mounted with fans, I can just get my fingers in between the side and front mounted rads with all fans in place. The out port of the roof rad is pretty much perfectly lined up with one of the ports of the Side mounted rad and the other port of it clear of the front radiator. All in all tube routing should be fairly simple and straightforward. The front and side rads will have air pushed through them from the outside in to the case and the rear 140mm will also push fresh air in. The top 3 fans will expunge the air from the case through the top rad. Edited September 13, 2022 by Steiner-KD Added information Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted September 15, 2022 Author Share Posted September 15, 2022 Started adding fittings but still waiting for lots of parts (electronics) from AC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeDoyen Posted September 15, 2022 Share Posted September 15, 2022 Going with an Octo? I don't know if you mentionned where you'll fit the water temp sensor(s). Let me shovel down the rabbit hole : If you feel fancy, installing two in-line sensors at the inlet of rad 1 and outlet of rad 3 AND a flow sensor, you can display the live value of the radiators dissipated heat in watts in Aquasuite with the help of a virtual sensor. not needed, by any means, and can be added later, but it's a good tool to help optimize the loop later on 😛 Tweaking the fan curves, adding/removing dust filters, you can see the dissipated power change, in good or bad, and actually measure it instead of going by feel. Same deal, with a sensor dangling off the case away from airflow to take an ambient reading you can have a virtual sensor giving you the delta between ambient and water temp (best variable for fan speed control). Using those two values, you can get an idea of how efficient your loop is, and if the changes you made had any positive or negative impact. Say you're gaming and dissipating 450W with the water 12°C above ambient.. then flip your exhaust fan as intake.. and now dissipate 450W with water 9°C above ambient, you just made your loop a lot more efficient. Meaning you can slow down your fans a lot to get back to that previous higher value.. and have the same cooling, but with a lot less noise. Sorry long rant, just pointing out possibilities 🙂 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted September 16, 2022 Author Share Posted September 16, 2022 17 hours ago, LeDoyen said: Going with an Octo? I don't know if you mentionned where you'll fit the water temp sensor(s). Let me shovel down the rabbit hole : If you feel fancy, installing two in-line sensors at the inlet of rad 1 and outlet of rad 3 AND a flow sensor, you can display the live value of the radiators dissipated heat in watts in Aquasuite with the help of a virtual sensor. not needed, by any means, and can be added later, but it's a good tool to help optimize the loop later on 😛 Tweaking the fan curves, adding/removing dust filters, you can see the dissipated power change, in good or bad, and actually measure it instead of going by feel. Same deal, with a sensor dangling off the case away from airflow to take an ambient reading you can have a virtual sensor giving you the delta between ambient and water temp (best variable for fan speed control). Using those two values, you can get an idea of how efficient your loop is, and if the changes you made had any positive or negative impact. Say you're gaming and dissipating 450W with the water 12°C above ambient.. then flip your exhaust fan as intake.. and now dissipate 450W with water 9°C above ambient, you just made your loop a lot more efficient. Meaning you can slow down your fans a lot to get back to that previous higher value.. and have the same cooling, but with a lot less noise. Sorry long rant, just pointing out possibilities 🙂 Not sure how to break apart a quote on this forum and answer to each section individually. I like the way you think and lol, I'm way ahead of you. On Monday I will receive more electronics from AC. 2 inline temp sensors (to be placed at inlet of first rad and outlet of last. A Highflow Next flow sensor (that also measures water quality and temp) to go between res/pump and first block. and a AC res with D5 Next pump (with internal sensors) and Leakshield system (more data collected). Since I will use 2 inline water temp sensors I still have room on the octo for 2 additional temp sensors on it for air temps. Next I guess is to figure out where to put the temp sensors inside the case (maybe one for inside the case and one for outside?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted September 20, 2022 Author Share Posted September 20, 2022 Small steps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dune2 Posted September 27, 2022 Share Posted September 27, 2022 Now that you have the rads in your system, do you think two 45mm rads would fit fine in the front and on top if you didn't use the side radiator? I only want to use two rads, but I am still debating the thickness. 2x45mm could be a sweet spot for 13900 and 4090 hardware. 😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeDoyen Posted September 27, 2022 Share Posted September 27, 2022 Sweet spot, depends if you care about noise 😛 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted September 28, 2022 Author Share Posted September 28, 2022 The front and top rads are 45mm ones, 30mm + fans on the side. With the front and top rads in the slots closest to the front you have roughly 10mm between the front of the side rad and the side of the front rad. 45's is absolutely fine. From the bottom of the top fans to the bottom of the front bracket it's 440mm (but I also have 7mm decouplers/shrouds between the top fans and top rad so potentially 447mm clear for the front rad to fit in. Might be tight with 2 420's but one 420 and one 360 should be absolutely fine. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kampers Posted October 7, 2022 Share Posted October 7, 2022 How it's go with project? Do you have some pictures ? I think use same 1x420 top 1x 360 side 1x 360 45mm front 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted October 7, 2022 Author Share Posted October 7, 2022 14 hours ago, kampers said: How it's go with project? Do you have some pictures ? I think use same 1x420 top 1x 360 side 1x 360 45mm front 🙂 At a standstill currently, I've got a lot of the water cooling parts in as well as done most cable management. The issue is it's a AMD Zen4 build so still waiting for the CPU, motherboard and RAM to arrive so I can actually put it in my system. So at the moment it basically looks like my last picture. My motherboard should arrive Monday or Tuesday and getting the CPU and RAM sent to me from the US (I'm in Sweden) so will take aprox 2 more weeks. Then I'm also waiting for the PCIe 5 NVMes to be out together with new RDNA graphics cards, so likely I won't be done until mid December. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kampers Posted October 8, 2022 Share Posted October 8, 2022 Ok 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 More parts trickling in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeDoyen Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 if you watercool that beauty on top right, i want to see it 😛 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted October 12, 2022 Author Share Posted October 12, 2022 (edited) 11 hours ago, LeDoyen said: if you watercool that beauty on top right, i want to see it 😛 I will, haven't ordered the block yet though, will this week. Waiting to see if EK will release a full block or if I'm to go with justa CPU block. Edited October 12, 2022 by Steiner-KD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeDoyen Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 i meant that thing that looks like a GPU with a DVI port 😛 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted October 13, 2022 Author Share Posted October 13, 2022 On 10/12/2022 at 10:37 AM, LeDoyen said: i meant that thing that looks like a GPU with a DVI port 😛 Oh LoL, took me a while. That's a cheap ass gfx card I meant to throw into a computer I'm building to run pfSense on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted October 17, 2022 Author Share Posted October 17, 2022 Well, RAM and CPU should be on it's way here now and also ordered the CPU block from EKWB. Will have to wait a bit more for gfx card and water block for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted October 23, 2022 Author Share Posted October 23, 2022 Meh, EKWB having supply issues and my AM5 waterblock for the CPU won't be delivered until Nov 22. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted November 3, 2022 Author Share Posted November 3, 2022 Seems I might have to switch toa slim radiator in the front. The water block from EK for the reference Radeon RX 7900 XTX is 307mm long, and the clearance from PCIe fingers to the tips of my res fittings is 300mm, switching to a 15mm thinner rad might just rescue that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeDoyen Posted November 4, 2022 Share Posted November 4, 2022 damned bulky D5s 😛 The GPU is supposed to be on the top 2 PCIE brackets, or at worse the second and 3rd one. It's possible it will actually be just above the 90° fitting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted November 5, 2022 Author Share Posted November 5, 2022 (edited) On 11/4/2022 at 1:00 AM, LeDoyen said: damned bulky D5s 😛 The GPU is supposed to be on the top 2 PCIE brackets, or at worse the second and 3rd one. It's possible it will actually be just above the 90° fitting I'm going for a horizontal mount, so unfortunately will conflict. But still plenty time before any 7900xtx cards go on sale, maybe there will be custom PCBs that are shorter, or maybe have to go with a non-EK waterblock. Also, even if I switch the front radiator, I think two 30mm 360's and one 45mm 360 should be cooling enough, just sucks with the extra expenditure. Edited November 5, 2022 by Steiner-KD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steiner-KD Posted March 29, 2023 Author Share Posted March 29, 2023 Making small steps of progress again finally. Graphics card (Sapphire RX7900XTX Nitro+) with waterblock from AlphaCool should arrive next week. 2 gen 4 2TB NVMe installed to be raided for storage and another Gen 4 2TB NVMe (will be replaced with gen 5 when available) for boot. Soo many bloody cables to manage and connect, and I suck at it. up against the PSU is a Hubby 7 USB 2 hub and the other is a Octo Fan/RGB controller. Started with the tubing too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeDoyen Posted March 30, 2023 Share Posted March 30, 2023 be careful when connecting the Octo with a SATA to Molex adapter. the Octo can draw up to 8 A for the fan channels, and a sata connector is rated to 4.5A maximum. That's why it uses Molex actually. You don't need a powered pwm hub to connect multiple fans per channel, the Octo is sturdy enough, but consider using a Molex connexion direct to the power supply to avoid releasing the magic smoke one day 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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