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Vengeance RGB Pro and K95 RGB Platinum keyboard stuck on red color after screen goes to sleep


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So I've just built a new system and on iCUE 4.23 the fans all ran super high RPMs even though they were set to quiet and nothing other than Windows 11 was running.
Update to 4.26.110 seems to have fixed the fans, but now when the monitor goes to sleep after no input both my RAM and my keyboard  change their color to solid red.  when i move my mouse and the monitor "wakes-up" (not a lock screen or a full Windows sleep) the keyboard and RAM stay red.  if I go into iCUE and either change the Scene or turn off Scenes and select  a color or lighting effect, it does nothing.  They both stay red.  Other devices like the H150i Elite Capellix and the  5000T RGB case continue to show the colors from the Scene.
If I Quit iCUE from the system tray and restart it everything works like it is supposed to until the monitor goes to sleep again.  This is a repeatable issue.
Suggestions?

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17 hours ago, MMeechan said:

if I go into iCUE and either change the Scene or turn off Scenes and select  a color or lighting effect, it does nothing.  They both stay red

This appears to be classic MSI Mystic Light interference, but unusual for it to try and take over after monitor sleep.  It's more common on resuming Windows from the sleep state as every programs fights for access to the hardware.  Do you have an MSI monitor?  I don't use that program, but check for a setting in Mystic Light that relates to "3rd party applications" or anything else suggesting permission to interact with things other than the motherboard itself.  

 

That looks like an Elite Capellix AIO so most likely your fan controller is a Commander Core.  It is unusual for it to race the fans on the desktop on Quiet and that is standard on the Commander Pro where the preset has a different meaning.  However, with record heat waves across the half the world this week (again), you may be into new territory on the H150i Elite Temp (coolant temperature).  Case environment temperature is the lowest possible coolant temp, before CPU heat is added.  Check the value.  You may be into the high 30s and thus the system believes you are +14C over a standard 23C room temp and therefor at load.  If so, you just need to make your own curve like almost everyone else.

 

Cooling Tab + symbol.  A new graph will appear below.  In the lower left corner of the graph are 4 shape tools.  The 2nd from the left is the "Quiet" preset from above.  Select it and now you can see and edit the actual curve..  Whatever your normal idle coolant temp, use that as the baseline for point 1.  So if you are at 37C, make that some easy quiet fan speed like 750 rpm and then scale up the points to your maximum acceptable speed (most people are in the 1300-1500 rpm range) and set that about +10C over the idle.  That should cover most things, including gaming where the GPU will heat the case up and cause a rise in environmental temp/baseline.  Leave the last data point somewhere out near 50-54C with a max fan blast.  If you get that high, you need to know.  60C is the maximum safety limit and at that level you can hit CPU temp of 100C opening up a program.  

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"That looks like an Elite Capellix AIO so most likely your fan controller is a Commander Core.  It is unusual for it to race the fans on the desktop on Quiet and that is standard on the Commander Pro where the preset has a different meaning"

The case is the 5000T which has a Commander Core XT plus the Commander Core that comes with the Capellix AIO.  Do they play nice together?
I will look at the Mystic Light setup.  I've never set it up, but maybe it has presets.
Thanks for the other recommendations.  I will give them a try.

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If the fans are connected to the XT for speed control, they likely are bit lost for a control variable. The Commander XT does better than the Pro with this, but cpu temp is still a terrible control variable with no relation to case fan temp. The best option for the XT is to use a temp sensor to grab rear exhaust temp (or anywhere in the case) and develop a curve for that range. It will work at all times, software running or not, and give you the slow and steady approach you need for case fans. 
 

However, from what it looks like above you have a 6 fan set and those can all go on the Commander Core for speed control. You really do want the radiator fans on that controller for the same reason as above, except coolant temp is the native source vs ambient temp. The other fans can use coolant temp as well.  It will increase +1C as ambient temp increases by the same +1C, so if works in the same way. 
 

So you appear to be in a funny position. You must use the Com Core for the AIO as it powers the pump. At the same time I believe you must use the Com XT to work the special case LEDs. This means you need both controllers but have far more PWM and RGB ports than needed. Com Core is better for the PWM connections. I don’t see a clear advantage one way or the other on the fan RGB connectors. However, you should decide now at the onset. Once you start developing lighting profiles, moving the fan RGB to the other controller means having to recreate the lighting for each profile again. 

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So right now I have the Commander Core Pro that came with the H150i  Elite Capellix AIO with only the pump connected.

I have the 3 fans and RGB on the radiator plugged into the 4, 5, and 6 spots on the Commander Core XT that came with the case.

I also have temp sensor 1 and 2 from the XT hovering over the CPU and GPU.

The fans for the radiator kick into high RPM if the system is doing pretty much anything, which obviously isn't correct.  The cooling presets seem to make no difference at all.

In your opinion where should the rad fans be plugged into? the Commander Pro or the XT?

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Commander XT is in control. Make sure on your custom curves, the “sensor” is set to Commander XT Temp 1 or 2 for each sensor. You’ll need to tweak your temp points to match your environment. There’s no reason to run the fans hard sitting on the desktop. The temp probes will measure air temperature, so the rear exhaust area is a good place to assess. You can use the other somewhere near the intake to get a better idea of how much heat is created in the case. If air enters at 31C and leaves at 31C, you don’t need to run the fans very hard. 
 

However, my suggestion is you move the PWM connectors over to the Commander Core so you can properly use coolant temperature (H150i Elite Temp) as the control variable. It’s effectively ambient case temp + CPU waste heat and will follow the case temps closely. More importantly it keeps the fans tied to what happens with the cooler. If something goes wrong, the fans on the Commander Core will max out instantly and let you know. In your current state they would continue in like nothing is wrong. It’s OK to run them from another control source, but then you need to be aware of your system values. Ok for people that are going to monitor regardless. Not great for those that bury the app and do other things. 

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13 hours ago, c-attack said:

Commander XT is in control. Make sure on your custom curves, the “sensor” is set to Commander XT Temp 1 or 2 for each sensor. You’ll need to tweak your temp points to match your environment. There’s no reason to run the fans hard sitting on the desktop. The temp probes will measure air temperature, so the rear exhaust area is a good place to assess. You can use the other somewhere near the intake to get a better idea of how much heat is created in the case. If air enters at 31C and leaves at 31C, you don’t need to run the fans very hard. 
 

However, my suggestion is you move the PWM connectors over to the Commander Core so you can properly use coolant temperature (H150i Elite Temp) as the control variable. It’s effectively ambient case temp + CPU waste heat and will follow the case temps closely. More importantly it keeps the fans tied to what happens with the cooler. If something goes wrong, the fans on the Commander Core will max out instantly and let you know. In your current state they would continue in like nothing is wrong. It’s OK to run them from another control source, but then you need to be aware of your system values. Ok for people that are going to monitor regardless. Not great for those that bury the app and do other things. 

ok. i've done as you suggested, I have the AIO fans and RGB connectors connected to the CC that the AIO is connected to.
The fans light up, but only seem to spin when the system starts up.  I also don't see them in iCUE in the Dashboard, but do see them in the lighting effects section under the H150i
I'm concerned since they aren't spinning at all now..
image.thumb.png.cca48d3af8a159449c92a8464533b6e9.pngimage.thumb.png.0cbb5bdcede65fd8df3fe2954ec055be.png

 

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For RGB lighting, you can do whatever you want.  You probably want all fans on the same controller for RGB and with 6 they can go on one or the other.   Splitting them 3 and 3 for RGB will create two lighting zones and each will need to be programmed.  That is a bit of pain and prevents 6 fan sequences.  Speed control is completely separate and they do not need to be on the same controller for speed and lighting.  You can split it between radiator and case or all on the Commander Core.  You really wouldn't need the XT at all here except it's needed for the case RGB panels.  No LED or ID port on the Commander Core.  

 

On the dashboard, remove the H150i Elite Capellix and then re-add it.  That should update the status.  However, see below.

 

13 hours ago, MMeechan said:

The fans light up, but only seem to spin when the system starts up.  I also don't see them in iCUE in the Dashboard, but do see them in the lighting effects section under the H150i
I'm concerned since they aren't spinning at all now..

Both the Commander Core and XT use auto-detect for PWM and RGB.  The RGB auto program can be run from CUE settings, but PWM requires a power cycle.  If you switched the fans with the power on, the controller won't run the check again.  Power the system down, flip the PSU off for 30 seconds just to be sure, then boot up normally.  The assigned fan profile is under the Cooling tab.  I am not sure what you are running right now.  

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1 hour ago, c-attack said:

For RGB lighting, you can do whatever you want.  You probably want all fans on the same controller for RGB and with 6 they can go on one or the other.   Splitting them 3 and 3 for RGB will create two lighting zones and each will need to be programmed.  That is a bit of pain and prevents 6 fan sequences.  Speed control is completely separate and they do not need to be on the same controller for speed and lighting.  You can split it between radiator and case or all on the Commander Core.  You really wouldn't need the XT at all here except it's needed for the case RGB panels.  No LED or ID port on the Commander Core.  

 

On the dashboard, remove the H150i Elite Capellix and then re-add it.  That should update the status.  However, see below.

 

Both the Commander Core and XT use auto-detect for PWM and RGB.  The RGB auto program can be run from CUE settings, but PWM requires a power cycle.  If you switched the fans with the power on, the controller won't run the check again.  Power the system down, flip the PSU off for 30 seconds just to be sure, then boot up normally.  The assigned fan profile is under the Cooling tab.  I am not sure what you are running right now.  

That worked perfectly.  Thanks so much!

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