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I just built a new PC specs are as follows,

CRYSTAL SERIES 680X RGB CASE 

INTEL I9 12900K 

64 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB DDR5 6000+

Evga z690 classified MB 

Evga RTX 3080 HYDRO COPPER 12GB GDDR6X 

Hydro X Series XD5 RGB Pump/Reservoir Combo — Black

1 Hydro X Series XR5 360mm Water Cooling

1 Hydro X Series XR5 240mm Water Cooling Radiator

1 Hydro X Series XR5 120mm Water Cooling Radiator

Series XC8 RGB PRO CPU Water Block — JayzTwoCents Edition

Hard line tubing

as the title says 

1. How do I control my lights on my RTX 3080?

I have read I need to enable SDK in Icue ( the opition is not there)

Can I control the header lights of the EVGA Z690 Classified? 

(The words Z690 Classified light up & Evga lights up)

 

The next questions pertain to warranty maybe  a corsair employee could answer them.

1 of my case fans stop spinning after 1 hour, I have tried multiple ports on the Commander Core  XT 

It does not spin.

1 rgb port on commander Core does not work

Can I get a replacement for it?

The back fan 120 mm does not light up (It came with the case) it only has 1 3 pin connector comming from it, from all the pictures and videos It's lit up.

1 other fan LL Series fan seems to spin slower than the one next to it same model (I can see the fan blades slowing down)

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@Snakeyees - I'll chime in on the first question...

You'll need to use EVGA Precision X1 (just grab the latest from the EVGA website) for the graphics card - there's a LED tab in the program. For the Classy Z690 Board, you'll need ELEET X1 (v1.0.10 or later) and again, there should be a LED tab you can access. 

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As mentioned above, you’ll need X1 to control the RGB on EVGA HC gpu. The good news is that program saves the pattern directly to the device rather than active software control like CUE.  It should not conflict and you can set the RGB, close X1, and the lighting will remain. That allows you to use other programs like Afterburner for GPU control if you prefer. However, there is no CUE control over those two products or a way to force it. 
 

7 hours ago, Snakeyees said:

The back fan 120 mm does not light up (It came with the case) it only has 1 3 pin connector comming from it, from all the pictures and videos It's lit up.

It is not a RGB fan. The 680X comes with 3 LL120 up front. That’s it. Most of the product pages for the cases have some glamour shots with the case all decked out. That fan is not going to viable on the Commander XT either. That is a PWM only controller and it appears that fan has a DC motor (3 pin). It will run at maximum when connected to the 12v PWM source. 
 

Fan stops after an hour?  This is one of the LL?  This is more likely to be controller related. A bad fan would start sputtering the moment but was connected. I can’t think of a reason for this, except if it’s on a splitter. Same for the LL that is slowing down. 
 

Dead RGB port - The Commander XT has independent RGB ports so this is possible, but rare. In the CUE “lighting setup” force the UI into “LL x 6” or whatever you are using rather than the auto-detect. See if that resolves it. If not, it looks like the XT may be suspect anyway. 
 

You need to formally contact Corsair Support through the ticket system linked at the bottom of the page for replacement parts. However, if the Commander XT is brand new you may be able to get it replaced faster through the vendor than through Corsair. 

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Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, c-attack said:

As mentioned above, you’ll need X1 to control the RGB on EVGA HC gpu. The good news is that program saves the pattern directly to the device rather than active software control like CUE.  It should not conflict and you can set the RGB, close X1, and the lighting will remain. That allows you to use other programs like Afterburner for GPU control if you prefer. However, there is no CUE control over those two products or a way to force it. 
 

It is not a RGB fan. The 680X comes with 3 LL120 up front. That’s it. Most of the product pages for the cases have some glamour shots with the case all decked out. That fan is not going to viable on the Commander XT either. That is a PWM only controller and it appears that fan has a DC motor (3 pin). It will run at maximum when connected to the 12v PWM source. 
 

Fan stops after an hour?  This is one of the LL?  This is more likely to be controller related. A bad fan would start sputtering the moment but was connected. I can’t think of a reason for this, except if it’s on a splitter. Same for the LL that is slowing down. 
 

Dead RGB port - The Commander XT has independent RGB ports so this is possible, but rare. In the CUE “lighting setup” force the UI into “LL x 6” or whatever you are using rather than the auto-detect. See if that resolves it. If not, it looks like the XT may be suspect anyway. 
 

You need to formally contact Corsair Support through the ticket system linked at the bottom of the page for replacement parts. However, if the Commander XT is brand new you may be able to get it replaced faster through the vendor than through Corsair. 

The Fan that stopped there was a burning smell just a few seconds before it stopped

The Fan that's slowing down i believe is on a splitter I don't have enough Ports on the XT I'm buying a 2nd XT so i dont have to use splitters

also are Magnetic Levitation Fan  worth the extra cost?

I have tried other LL's that light up in slots 2-6, any Fan that works in the other slots will not light up in Slot 1

I bought everything from Corsair I have a open case with them still waiting on a reply

Edited by Snakeyees
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@Snakeyees - I used to run 2 x Command Pro's (CoPro) with a water probe thermistor on each (so the temperature source was available even when ICUE wasn't running). I ran 2  x CoPro's mainly because I had more than 6 PWM devices and I too didn't want to run splitters. Now I have standardized on 360mm radiators and therefore 120mm fans, I installed a Lampton SP105 fan controller (10 x 4-pin PWM) to handle the 9 fans going to the 3 x 360mm radiators. My CoPro uses 2 x PWM ports - one going to the Fan controller and the other to my D5 pump. Heck of a lot easier to change one entry (a single PWM channel) in ICUE if I choose to switch to a different fan curve. As I said - when I standardized... both of my machines run identical radiator configurations so I have a Lampton SP105 fan controller in front of a CoPro on both rigs. 

Quote

also are Magnetic Levitation Fan  worth the extra cost?

That's a hard one to really answer but JayzTwoCents illuded to certain bearing types being suitable for certain fan orientations and thought that the magnet bearings would be suitable for any orientation. I normally run ML fans (I've got a box of 120 & 140mm ML's) and run ML-120 RGB Elite's on my main rig and {cough cough} Lian Li AL120's (fluid dynamic bearing) in the other. Only time will tell if one outlast the other - mine are running under identical conditions (same radiators and orientation).

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to be honest, the only fans that do crap out on the regular are ball bearing fans, and old sleeve bearing. I have had some of those die in 3 months, but fluid dynamic and maglev (factory defect aside) should last for the lifetime of the rig.

The main difference really is that the fluid dynamic can be ruun in DC and PWM mode while maglev should only be run in PWM if you don't want to kill them.

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Posted (edited)
On 7/6/2022 at 12:15 AM, Snakeyees said:

Fan that stopped there was a burning smell just a few seconds before it stopped

Well that certainly seems like a fan problem. I misunderstood the description and ‘it only lasted an hour’ before it blew out. 
 

You can use ML Elite fans, but frankly with all the LL it might feel like an odd fit. There is not enough a performance gain to make it worthwhile for most uses. A burned out motor on a LL is pretty rare. Some inherent manufacturing defect I would not expect to see again. 
 

The Commanders often act strange with splitters and that was the basis for the question. You usually can get away with one or two “two way” splitters, but avoid triples. However, like everyone above when you start getting into 9-10 fans you are much better off using a powered PWM hub to control groups of fans. This is effectively a powered splitter using 1 PWM connection on the Commander and likely cheaper than 3 double splitters and I would not recommend this for the Commander Core or XT. 
 

If nothing will light up in RGB port 1, that is fairly clear evidence something is wrong. 

Edited by c-attack
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Thanks for all your replies, But what is PWM?

 

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pulse width modulation.

it's a square wave signal with a varying duty cycle, basically. (the waveform is like vertical bars that get wider or narrower)

The old DC fans were controlled by varying the input voltage, to change speed. No electronics in the fan, very basic, but the fan has very little torque at lower speeds, and the voltage drop does create a lot of heat on the controller

The PWM fans are powered constantly by 12V, and in addition, the PC sends a PWM signal to the fan built-in motor controller. The duty cycle of that signal will determine what speed the fan runs at.

The fan has loads more torque (speed control is more precise), there is no voltage being dropped so the controller never heats up, basically way better.

I was mentionning that maglev fans have to be used with PWM, because the magnets need to always be powered with 12V to levitate the rotor. If you drop the voltage, it's going to wobble and scratch, make noise and damage the whole thing with time

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In layman’s terms, a DC fan has its speed controlled by changing the voltage between 5-12v to adjust speed. DC fans have a 3 pin connector. 
 

A PWM fan has another means of control as described above and a fourth wire to effect that. It runs at 12v all the time and that creates the control issue. If you put a DC 3 pin fan on a 12v only PWM controller, the fan will run at maximum all the time. You cannot control its speed and it’s missing the PWM control wire. 
 

A typical PWM splitter will have 2 connectors, one 4 pin (control) and the other 3 pin (secondary). However, that does not mean it’s ok for DC fans. It still runs at 12v and the missing wire is the tachometer or speed wire to report the RPMs. So even on the 3 pin connector it still will be stuck at 100%. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the explanation 

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